Hand Saws

Cross Cut Hand Saw Use for woodcutting across the wood grain Usually 24 inches to 26 inches long with 8 to 11 TPI Doesn't cut as aggressively as rip saws but leaves a much smoother edge

Rip Hand Saw Use for woodcutting with the wood grain Usually 24 inches to 26 inches long with 4 to 7 teeth per inch (TPI) Cut very aggressively and leave slightly rough edge

Sway-back Saw (can be a crosscut or ripsaw) The Sway allows you to put a slight curve in the cut

Straight-back Saw (can be a crosscut or ripsaw)

Coping Saw Use for fine woodcutting, coping moulding joints Has deep steel tension frames and very thin blades to make intricate cuts at extreme angles

Coping Saw

Back Saw Use for fine woodcutting, moulding and trim Has a rigid piece along the back to prevent the saw from kinking during use

Key Hole Saw Use for circle and curve cutting in wood Has very thin, pointed blades for cutting small, tight radius curves and holes

Drywall Saw Use for circle and curve cutting in wood Has very thin, pointed blades for cutting small, tight radius curves and holes

Panel (short cut or box saw) Use for woodcutting across the wood grain Usually shorter than regular cross cut saws, for easy portability

Japanese (pull) saw Use for fine woodcutting, moulding and trim Cuts on the pull stroke to give greater control and eliminates the possibility of the saw kinking in the kerf

Hack Saw Use for metal cutting Has very fine teeth and thin blades, held under tension in a steel frame

Door Jamb Saw Used to cut door jambs and other obstacles to allow for flooring to fit underneath.

Bow Saw Use for woodcutting and pruning in any direction Has a tubular steel frame with a ribbon-like, high-tension steel blade