LESSON – 29 FITTING DEFECTS AND ALTERATION IN TROUSERS BLOCK

FITTING DEFECTS AND ALTERATION If measurements taken carefully – block will provide excellent fit – however, certain figure occur problems – due to figures – 1. LONG BACK : Feature : The trouser waistband dips at back - may be strainlines across the back – Remedy : Mark points A and B on seat line – cut along line - -open a wedge at A as per required amount – trace round new outline ( continue…)

2. SHORT BACK : Features : The trousers sag at the back creating folds Remedy : Mark point A on the waistline A – B is the amount required to be taken out – join B –C on side seam 3. LARGE ABDOMEN : Features : The trousers dip at the front and strain lines appear across trousers

3. LARGE ABDOMEN : Features : The trousers dip at the front and strain lines appear across trousers Remedy : Draw a line 15 cm down from crutch line – Mark A and B on grain line – cut down the grain line from A-B - open a wedge at A - raise front waistline the amount required

4. LARGE SEAT : Features : The trousers pull across seat line and create strain lines at fork, trousers require more width across seat and more length on the fork line Remedy : Measure through the crutch from base of waistband – measure fitting line of fork of trousers – calculate the amount the fork must be increased Mark A and B seat line – cut along line to open a wedge at A – fill in seat line approx 1.5 cm – (continue ….)

B-D is 1 cm – join C and D to knee line 5. LEG STANCE : Features : If a man stands with an open leg stance or closed leg stance this will affect the hang of the trousers Remedy : A. Open leg stance : Mark A and B on hem line of trousers – A _C and B_D is approx. 1.5 cm - join C to crutch line – D to seat line – the grain line is moved out 1.5 cm – repeat adaptation on back ( continue…)

B. Closed leg stance : The adaptation is the same as for open leg stance - but in this case the leg is moved inwards e.g. A_E and B_F is 1.5 cm