Stitch Lengths By Miss Payne

STITCH LENGTH Types Regulation stitch Stay stitching basting Ease stitching Reinforcement stitching

Stitches per inch - spi 24 mm = 1 inch 6 mm = 4 spi 5 mm = 4.8 spi

Regulation stitching: Most common stitch Most often used on seamlines 2 or more layers 10 – 14 spi or 2.5 MM Used everywhere on garment 90% of sewing is done with a Regualation stitch!

Staystitching: Use regulation stitch length Used on curves and angles A row of stitching to prevent stretching during Construction Sewn Wide to narrow! Sewn 1/8th inch away from the seam into the seam allowance Sewn on one layer Use regulation stitch length Used on curves and angles Preparatory step – 1st step is staystitching

Machine basting: Large temporary stitches Distance sewn from the seamline depends on the project 6–8 spi or 3–4 mm stitch length Mostly used for fitting and gathering

Ease stitching: Used on an edge that is slightly longer than its match (etc. shoulder seams and sleeves) Condenses threads to create shape without tucks or gathers Used on 1 layer of fabric Sewn at 1/8th smaller than seam allowance 8–10 spi or 2.4–3 mm stitch length

Reinforcement stitching: Two purposes – (1) to strengthen seam where you clip to seamline Sewn a threads width away from seamline into the seam allowance One layer of fabric 20 – 24 spi or 1 mm stitch length Preparatory step where you have to do a deep slash

Reinforcement stitching Second purpose: (2) two rows of stitching in area of high stress and seam that stands up Sewn a ¼” away into seam allowance Trim to 3/8” Finish seam edge Areas to be reinforced include the crotch seam and underarm seam