Hair Removal Chapter #22

Why do I need to learn about removing unwanted hair when I may never perform such a service? Often clients’ will have hair growth occurring in unusual amounts or locations and those clients would like to have the hair removed and that is where the professional cosmetologist comes in Professional Cosmetologists are able to offer all services for hair, nails, and skin even though they may specialize in one area It is a quick and easy service that often generates a large profit

What do I need to know to provide a quality service? Hair removal is grouped into 2 categories: permanent and temporary Most salon techniques fall into the temporary category Sanitation & Disinfection are key to this service

History of Hair Removal Early Egyptians used to rub hair away using pumice stone Greeks and Romans used similar methods Native Americans used sharpened stones and seashells to rub off and pluck out hairs Ancient Turks used rusma a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime, and rose water, as a crude hair removal agent Recently hair removal has become more popular because technology has made it easier and more effective

Client Consultation Is necessary and very important to find out skin care background information to prevent potential problems You must know if the client is using any medications that effect the skin Men usually want to remove hair in the chest area Women usually want to remove facial hair

Contraindications for hair removal Accutane used in last 6 months Blood thinning medication Drugs for autoimmune diseases Psoriasis, eczema Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules in area to be waxed Recent cosmetic or reconstructive surgery Rosacea or very sensitive skin History of fever blisters or cold sores Recent chemical peel Recent microdermabrasion Use of Retin-A or Renova Use of Tazorac, Differin, Azelex Use of hydroquinone for skin lightening

Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis Photoepilation Laser Hair Removal

Permanent = Electrolysis Electrolysis – removal by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair. The current is applied with a very fine needle – shaped electrode that is inserted into each hair follicle

Permanent = Photoepilation Photoepilation – uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles. Treatment has minimal side effects, can provides 50 to 60 % clearance of hair in 12 weeks Depending on the state law a cosmetologist may require extra training

Permanent = Laser Hair Removal Rapid removal of unwanted hair A laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing hair growth Most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth or anagen phase Requirement is that one’s hair must be darker than the surrounding skin Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment A doctor must perform the treatment, in some states a cosmetologist may perform the treatment under the supervision of a doctor

Temporary Hair Removal Shaving Tweezing Electronic Tweezers Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring

Temporary = Shaving Most common form Softened by applying a warm moist towel, then apply shaving cream Care must be taken to prevent ingrown hairs Witch hazel or astringent can be used following a shave to help reduce skin irritation A warm not hot towel should be used for a client with sensitive skin

Temporary = Tweezing Commonly used to shape the eyebrows Used to remove undesirable hairs from around the mouth and chin Arching is often done as part of a professional makeup service Correctly shaped eyebrows have a strong positive impact on the overall attractiveness of the face The natural arch of the eyebrow follows the orbital bone or the curved line of the eye socket Prior to tweezing use warm water or cold cream on a cotton ball Hold the skin taut during the tweezing process to avoid pinching the hair Apply astringent when done in order to prevent skin infection

Temporary = Electronic Tweezers Electronically charged tweezers transmits radio frequency energy down the hair shaft into the follicle area, the papilla is this dehydrated and eventually destroyed The process of clearing any area of hair by this method is slow

Temporary = Depilatories Is a substance, usually a caustic alkali preparation, used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skin surface level It contains detergents to strip the sebum from the hair and adhesives to hold the chemicals to the hair shaft for the 5 to 10 minutes necessary to remove the hair During the process the hair expands and the disulfide bonds break A patch test should be preformed prior to service to ensure there are no skin allergies

Temporary = Epilators Removes hair from the bottom of the follicle(will destroy follicle over time) Wax is commonly used as an epilator Products are primarily made of resins and beeswax Waxing removes the hair from the follicle, the hair takes longer to grow back Brazilian means the removal of all the hair in the front and back of the bikini area

Waxing Can be hot or cold There is strip (soft wax) and no strip wax (hard wax) Hair must be at least ¼ to ½ inch Time between waxing is 4 to 6 weeks

Waxing Precautions To prevent burns – test the temperature of the wax on the inside of your wrist Make sure that wax does not come in contact with the eye Do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, irritated skin, or previously waxed skin Redness and swelling sometimes occur on sensitive skin, apply aloe gel to calm the skin

Waxing Procedures Cleanse Apply Pressure Hold skin taught

Waxing Procedure Melt wax Complete client consultation Put on Gloves Cleanse the area thoroughly with a mild astringent cleanser and dry Test the temperature of the wax Spread wax in a thin even coat going in the same direction as the hair growth Do NOT double dip the spatula Apply fabric – press in the direction of the hair growth Hold the skin taut Pull the strip low and parallel to the skin surface in the opposite direction of the hair growth – do NOT pull straight up Apply pressure Remove remaining residue with wax off lotion Clean-up, sanitize, and wash hands

Temporary = Threading Practiced in many eastern cultures and is now more popular in western cultures Manipulation of cotton thread, which is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it from the follicle

Temporary = Sugaring Another epilator treatment becoming more popular Gives same results as waxing Involves the use of a thick, sugar based paste More appropriate for sensitive skin Removing residue is simpler because it dissolves with water

Proper shape for eyebrows