1 64 Using a Pattern Chapter 64 Page 616

2 4 Steps to Sew  1- Prepare the pattern  2- Prepare the fabric  3- Lay out the pattern pieces and cut the fabric  4- Mark the fabric

3 Early Patterns  Early patterns were much simpler  Before WWII most were blank pieces of tissue  Tiny holes where dart placement  Other holes indicated pieces to be placed on fold  Sewers were supposed to know what the terminology meant and it wasn’t explained

4 Preparing the Pattern  Take the pattern guide sheet out  Circle the lay out for your pattern  Become familiar with the terms and pattern pieces

5 Check Measurements  Recheck measurements  If more than an inch, you need to adjust  Measure pattern pieces to double check (seam to seam)  Seam allowance – the fabric between the line for cutting and the line for sewing Seam allowance is 5/8 of an inchSeam allowance is 5/8 of an inch

6  Clothing patterns include:  Ease – extra room that allows for clothing to fit comfortably

7 Simple Adjustments  Shortening or lengthening is the easiest adjustment  Follow pattern directions  Cut or fold at the adjustment line on the pattern piece  More difficult adjustment is width: Increase or decrease of an inch or less can be done at the side seamsIncrease or decrease of an inch or less can be done at the side seams

8 Real-life Application  Marcella worked carefully because she wanted her dress to fit right. She pinned the pattern pieces together and tried them on before she cut her fabric. The top of the dress seemed way to big, so when Marcella cut the fabric pieces, she took about an inch off each side seam.  What surprise might await her?

9 Preparing the Fabric  Determine if the fabric needs to be preshrunk, read the label on the bolt of fabric  To preshrink: wash and dry according to instructions  Determine grain (the direction in which the thread runs) to see if it needs to be straightened

10  Selvage = the finished edge of the fabric  Off-grain fabric can be straightened by pulling on the bias (the diagonal line that intersects the lengthwise and crosswise grains) Another term is blockingAnother term is blocking

11 Laying Out, Cutting, & Marking  Lay out the pattern  Double check to see if pieces are laid out right  Cut out the fabric on a large flat surface  May need to iron the pieces to be accurate

12 Laying Out Pattern  Layout = is the diagram that shows how to place the pattern pieces on your fabric  Fold the fabric with the right sides together as shown on the layout you circled  Smooth out the fabric  Lay out pieces (first pieces are on fold)  Begin to pin the pieces in place

13 Real-life Application  Jill doesn’t have room on her fabric to place the sleeve pattern piece so that its grain line is parallel to the selvage. However, she can fit it in at an angle.  Should she?

14  She should double check her layout  Re-arrange pieces until all grain lines are parallel or the garment might not turn out right

15 Cutting the Fabric  Before cutting, make sure all the pieces are correct  Place pins at right angles to the cutting line  Follow the cutting line exactly  Mark the proper cutting line with a highlight if necessary

16 Lay out and Cut outs  Turn to Page 622, Figure 64.2

17 Marking the Fabric  Each pattern piece contains markings that must be transferred to the wrong side of the fabric  Use:  Tracing paper and wheel  Pins and chalk wheel or chalk  Fabric pens  thread

18  Some sewers use heavy weights made for holding patterns and not pins  Sprays can also be purchased  For marking some people use left over bars of soap

19 Careful Approach  Be careful as you are cutting and marking  Cut notches outward not inward  Don’t waste your time, energy and expense in the process

20  Notches can be cut into the seam allowance, however when working with beginners it is advisable to have them cut the notch outside of the seam allowance as demonstrated by the red lines in the diagram.

21  Patterns first came into use about The garment industry needed patterns in order to mass-produce ready-to-wear clothing.  In time, the use of both patterns and sewing machines spread from the garment industry to the general public.

22  Today’s sewers spend roughly $3 billion a year on fabric, patterns, sewing machines and other equipment and supplies.  Catalogs offer patterns not only for clothing but also for crafts and home decorating.