4.02 Prepare Fabric & Pattern for Construction

Select Pattern Pieces Select required pattern pieces according to the layout diagram Separate pieces. Do not trim excess tissue paper. Return extra pieces to the envelope. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Multi-sized patterns do not have stitching line marked on pattern. Mark cutting line with felt-tip pen. Write your name on each piece & the guide sheet. Maxwell Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Basic Fit Shorten Method I Measure up from the adjustment line the desired amount, draw a new line, fold at adjustment line, bring adjustment line to new line, tape in place, redraw cutting lines. Shorten Method II Measure up desired amount, draw new cutting lines Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Lengthen Method I Cut between adjustment lines, add extra paper, extent grainline, measure desired amount, tape remaining pattern in place, redraw cutting lines. Lengthen Method II add extra paper, measure desired amount, draw new cutting lines Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Side seam adjustments Increase Add extra paper Measure out from cutting line ¼ required amount Redraw cutting line tapering to original cutting line Add same adjustment to waistband or facing Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Decrease Measure in from the cutting line ¼ the required amount. Redraw cutting line tapering to the original cutting line. Remove the same amount from waistband or facing. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Why Alter Patterns? Altering patterns is better than altering finished garments More accurate Better fit

Fabric Preparation Preshrink fabric by washing fabric Preshrinking removes some fabric finishes & may help straighten the grain. Wash and dry the fabric as you will the finished garment.

Straightening Fabric Grain Clip selvage and pull one crosswise yarn Gently push the fabric along the yarn Cut along the mark left by the pulled yarn. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction

Sometimes it is easier to ravel a few crosswise yarns until you can pull one yarn off across the entire width of the fabric. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Straightening Fabric Grain Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Match the selvages. The fabric is straight if the crosswise ends match & are at right angles to the selvage. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction

To straighten the fabric, pull the fabric on the true bias. Open the fabric & pull the 2 opposite corners that are too short. Refold to check. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction

Some fabrics cannot be straightened because: The grain is locked in a permanent position by the fabric finish. The fabric has been heat-set during the printing process. Non-woven fabrics have no grain line.

To Do: Select your pattern pieces, separate them, highlight all pattern symbols and cutting lines for your size, & write you name on each piece and your guide sheet. Complete Fabric Facts Activity, pg. 4.02A; refer to Part 3, Lesson 3 Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics, Construction. Complete Pattern Adjustments activity, pg. 4.02B; refer to Part 3, Lesson 2 Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics, Construction. After teacher demonstration, complete pattern alterations using the quarter scale patterns, pg. 4.02C & D. Refer to the handouts included. Straighten the grain of your fabric. Complete the VOCATS practice questions for 4.02.

Work Cited Weber, Jeanette. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction. New York: Glenco-McGraw Hill, Liddell, Louise A. and Carolee S. Samuels, CFCS. Clothes & Your Appearance. Illinois: The Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc Soto, Anne Marie. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book. New York: Simplicity Pattern Company