1. Patternmaking Patternmaking  the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to product an apparel item. – The patternmaker transforms the design into a paper pattern so that the various pieces of the garment can be cut and sewn together to make the garment sample. Grading  The technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size.

2. Making Samples Samples are made to a ‘model’ fit size of 6, 8, or 10. – Live models or mannequins wear the samples, and the staff can make any final alterations and corrections before the garments are shown to retail buyers.

3. Costing After the manufacturer completes the new garment, but before the retail buyers see it, the production costs of the garment must be calculated in order to set a wholesale price.

4. Costing Wholesale  the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers. – Price includes: Cost of Labor Materials Markup (~220%) – Commission paid to the sales staff – Terms, such as discounts to retail stores that pay bills on time. – Overhead, which includes rent, utilities, salaries, insurance, and advertising – Profit

5. Order Taking When retail buyers place their orders, the manufacturer can begin to mass-produce the new garments. Apparel is usually produced in dozens.

6. Garment Cutting and Sewing Cut and sewn in an assembly line manner. Computerized machinery cuts each pattern. Layers of fabric are cut per pattern piece to create multiple pieces. – The number of garments cut at a time depends on the number of layers of fabric. After the pattern pieces are cut, the garments are sewn together. – A different machine sews each section.

7. Garment Cutting and Sewing Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM)  a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and- sewing process.

8. Quality Control and Labeling After a garment is constructed, an inspector checks it for flaws or mistakes. – If mistakes are found, the inspector returns the garment for correction. The garment is then pressed, and labels and/or handtags are placed on the garment. – Handtags  provide information such as the fabric content and care instructions. – Labels  Identify the name of the manufacturer line of clothing

9. Haute Couture vs. Pret-a-Porter High-fashion designer clothing Fabrics are created specifically for the designer Custom-made by hand to fit the client Require special fittings, cuttings, and sewing Complicated and precise Ready to wear Practical and less expensive Generates more income for couture fashion houses

10. Size Classifications Sizing Systems  a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development. Standard measurements today vary from one manufacturer to another and are influenced by fashion, style, and fit preferences of a particular target market.

11. Sizes by Country UK810121416 USA68101214 Continental3638404244 Japanese79111315 Bust32"34"36"38"40" Waist24"26"28"30"32" 61cm66cm71cm76cm81cm Hip35"37"39"41"43" 89cm94cm99cm104cm109cm

12. Sizes by Brands Aeropostale Sizes Kohl’s

13. Vanity Sizing Some manufacturers of expensive fashions downsize their lines, because it gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.