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Textiles Natural Manufactured
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Fibers Basic Unit of all Textile Products- tiny hair like. All fibers have their own characteristics and properties, depending upon their source, chemical composition, and quality. No fiber is perfect. Each has some good, fair, and poor qualities that may make it suitable or unsuitable for certain uses.
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Fibers con’t The basic characteristics of a fiber can be slightly altered but never totally changed. The fiber may be short, long, straight, or curly. These fiber characteristics greatly affect the appearance, and performance of the fabrics they are made into. The Characteristics you look for in children’s clothing are totally different that you would look for in evening wear for yourself. Thus an understanding of fibers, yarns, and fabrics if basic to the study of apparel.
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Fiber Sources Natural - occurs naturally in nature o Cellulosic Fibers and Protein Fibers Manufactured - is made from chemicals or natural fibers that are chemically changed o Cellulosic and Synthetic
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Fiber Sources Natural- Plant or Animal fiber that grow in nature. Two categories: Cellulosic Fibers (plant)- Include: Cotton, Linen (hemp), Ramie, Jute, Bamboo Protein Fibers (animal) Include: Wool, Silk, Leather
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Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured- (Cellulosic) o Made from a Natural material called Cellulose. The cellulose is turned into a liquid and poured through a spinneret. Includes: Acetate, Rayon, Triacetate, Lyocell.
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Fiber Sources (con’t) Manufactured Non-cellulosic (may be called “Synthetic”- Made from chemicals, petroleum, coal, and natural gas. All of these fibers are manufactured from different combinations of petroleum, natural gas, air and water. They are poured through a spinneret. Include: Acrylic, Polyester, Nylon, Modacrylic, Spandex, and Olefin.
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Natural Fibers General Characteristics Absorbent Breathable- porous fibers Biodegradable Most Wrinkle, some exceptions Often very luxurious, and more expensive than Manufactured Fibers
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Fiber Structures Staple Fibers- Short & Fuzzy- Usually between 1” and 4” long. These tiny fibers already exist in a plant or animal. The fibers just need to be cleaned up, sorted, and purified before they are used for fabrics. o Short o Look lumpy and bumpy under a microscope o Include all natural fibers, except silk
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Fiber Structures (con’t) Filament Fibers- Long and smooth (like fishing line) o Include all man-made, and synthetic fibers o Include Silk o Manufactured Fibers can be cut to a staple length to create a fabric that is like a natural fiber Spinneret- All man-made and Synthetic fibers are poured through a Spinneret to create the fiber.
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Manufactured Fibers General Characteristics Low absorbency Non-breathable Wrinkle resistant Usually less expensive Heat Sensitive
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Manufactured Fibers- Cellulosic Acetate Lyocell (Tencel®) Rayon
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Manufactured Cellulosic Fibers Made from a natural material called “cellulose.” Found in the plant wall of different plants. General Characteristics –Breathable –Wrinkle –Heat Sensitive –Absorbent
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Acetate Advantages Soft Drapeable Dries quickly Resistant to shrinking
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Acetate Disadvantages Can wrinkle Low abrasion resistance Heat sensitive Damaged by acetone
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Acetate- care Some fabrics will be washable, but many will be “dry clean only.”
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Skirts Blouses Dresses Scarves Linings Acetate- Clothing/Fashion uses
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Rayon advantages Soft and comfortable High moisture absorbency Drapeable
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Rayon disadvantages May wrinkle or shrink unless treated May mildew
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Care of Rayon Dry cleaned or washable (see label) Iron at low temperature
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Rayon- Clothing/Fashion uses o Dresses o Shirts o Blouses o Skirts o Pants
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Lyocel advantages Breathable Soft and comfortable Drapes well- heavier than Rayon Dull finish Absorbent Strong
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Lyocel disadvantages Expensive Stretches in length & width Damaged with hot iron
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Care of Lyocel Washable Dry Clean Low Iron
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Dresses Skirts Lingerie Blouses Clothing/Fashion uses
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Synthetic Fibers Acrylic Nylon Polyester Spandex (Lycra) Aramid (Kevlar, Nomex) Olefin Triacetate Modacrylic
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Synthetic Fibers All are made from Petrochemicals General Characteristics - Resist Abrasion - Resist Wrinkling - Melt at High Heat - Not absorbent
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Acrylic Advantages Soft Warm Wool-like Light weight Wrinkle resistant Resistant to moths and sunlight Affordable
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Acrylic Disadvantages Pills Static electricity Heat sensitive
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Care of Acrylic Dry Cleaned or laundered Iron at low temperature
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Sweaters Knit garments Faux Fur Coats Pants Skirts Shoe soles Clothing/Fashion uses
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Nylon Advantages Very Strong Resilient Lustrous Dries quickly Water, wind resistant Afordable
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Nylon disadvantages May yellow or gray Heat Sensitive Low moisture absorbency Pills
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Care of Nylon Easily laundered Iron at low temperature
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Sportswear Jackets Raincoats Backpacks Purses Clothing/Fashion uses
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Polyester advantages Excellent WRINKLE RESISTANCE Resistant to abrasion Dries quickly Blends well with other fibers Retains heat-set pleats and creases
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Polyester disadvantages Absorbs oily stains Low absorbency of moisture
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Care of Polyester Easily laundered Needs little or no pressing
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Clothing/Fashion uses Pants Shirts Suits Sportswear Skirts
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Spandex advantages Excellent elasticity and recovery Stronger and more durable than rubber Light weight Resistant to body oils Used for one reason: “Stretch” *Spandex is always blended with other fibers.
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Spandex disadvantages Damaged by chlorine bleach Damaged by heat Does not Dye Well
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Pants Shirts Jeans Sportswear Underwear Socks Bras Tights Clothing/Fashion uses
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Fabric Blends Cotton / Polyester – Why? Cotton / Spandex – Why? Wool / Acrylic – Why? Cotton / Linen – Why? Polyester / Silk – Why? Nylon / Spandex – Why?
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Aramid (Kevlar & Nomex) advantages Exceptional strength Exceptional heat and flame resistance Resistant to stretch and abrasion
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Aramid disadvantages Not absorbent
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Clothing/Fashion uses Kevlar –Bullet Proof Vests –Cut/Heat and Chemical resistant Gloves Nomex –Fireman Uniforms –Racing Apparel
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Resources: http://www.elann.com/Commerce.Web/fibre_facts.aspx http://www.qqm.cz/link/spinning.pdf
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