1. Apparel Construction

2. Begin with the Pattern Std 12 Unit 7 pt. 2

3.  Explain the meaning of pattern symbols.  Adjust pattern length and width. Objectives

4.  Every pattern has a pattern guide sheet which has step-by-step directions for the sewing project  Read and study the guide sheet before beginning your project The Pattern Guide Sheet

5. pattern guide sheet  The pattern guide sheet gives pattern pieces needed for each view  Pattern pieces contain many lines, terms, and symbols Understanding Pattern Symbols © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

6.  Cutting lines are indicated with a bold line Cutting lines  Notches are diamond-shaped symbols that should be precisely cut out Notches  Dots are used for matching seams and other construction details Dots  Multisize patterns contain three or more sizes on one tissue pattern Multisize patterns Cutting Lines

7. Stitching Lines © Africa Studio/Shutterstock

8.  Fabrics have a lengthwise and a crosswise graingrain  A grainline arrow indicates the direction a pattern piece is placed on fabric—usually along the lengthwise graingrainline arrow  When short arrows point to the edge of a pattern piece, place it on a fabric fold Grainline Arrows

9.  Adjustment lines show where to shorten or lengthen a pattern piece Adjustment lines Adjustment Lines © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

10.  Proper fit is key to successful sewing  Patterns do not fit every person perfectly—alterations may be neededalterations Altering Your Pattern continued © D. Vesna/Shutterstock

11.  Make alterations on the pattern pieces before laying them out on fabric  To make sure the altered pattern will fit, pin fit the pattern Altering Your Pattern

12.  Adjusting length is one of the most common and least difficult alterations to make  To shorten a pattern piece,  make a fold in the pattern piece between adjustment lines  tape in place Adjusting Pattern Length continued

13.  To lengthen a pattern piece,  cut between the adjustment lines  place a piece of paper under the two pattern pieces  tape Adjusting Pattern Length © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

14.  Width adjustments may need to be made in the sleeve, waist, hips, or thighs  Adjustments should be made in both front and back pieces Adjusting Pattern Width continued

15.  Waistline alterations in pants and skirts are made at the side seams or by adjusting darts Adjusting Pattern Width © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

16. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-1 Review How do you know which pattern pieces are needed for the view you plan to make?  consult the pattern guide sheet What is the space between the cutting line and the stitching line called? What is the standard width of the space?  seam allowance; ⅝-inch continued

17. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-1 Review True or false. Alterations should be made to pattern pieces before laying them out on the fabric.  true Where are alterations to the waistlines of pants and skirts made?  at the side seams

18. Pattern Layout, Cutting, and Marking Section 12-2 pt. 2

19.  Choose the appropriate cutting layout.  Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric correctly.  Cut the fabric and transfer pattern markings. Objectives

20.  The pattern guide sheet shows many cutting layoutscutting layouts The Pattern Layout continued © CandyBox Images/Shutterstock

21.  Find the layout for the specific pattern version you will use  Then look for your size and fabric width  Different layouts are shown for fabrics with surface texture or with nap The Pattern Layout

22.  Fold your fabric according to the instructions given for your layout  Watch out for layout notes, such as  selvage  single thickness  double thickness Folding the Fabric continued

23.  Fabric is usually folded right sides together  A lengthwise fold brings the two selvages togetherselvages  A crosswise fold brings the two cut edges together  A doublefold brings each selvage edge toward the center Folding the Fabric

24.  Place pattern pieces on the fabric as pictured in the pattern layout; shaded pieces are placed printed side down Placing Pattern Pieces continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

25.  Lay all pieces on the fabric  Match plaids, stripes, and checks at seamlines and front openings  Make sure pattern pieces are on the grain  Pin ends of the grainline arrow to the fabric at a uniform distance from the selvage edge Placing Pattern Pieces

26.  Place pins  every six inches along the stitching lines  at right angles to pattern edges  diagonally in corners  Watch for pattern pieces that must be placed on the fold Pinning

27.  Use dressmaker shears  Follow the cutting lines for your size  Pay attention to any size adjustments you made to the pattern  Cut precisely around notches Cutting the Fabric

28. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Did You Know? In the textile industry, laser cutting machines are used to cut fabric. Lasers seal the edges of fabrics that fray easily and are used for detailed cutting designs. © Shawn Hempel/Shutterstock

29.  Several markings on the pattern guide should be transferred to the fabric  center front  center back  darts  buttons Marking the Fabric  buttonholes  dots  pockets

30.  Tracing paper and a tracing wheel are often used to transfer pattern markings to fabric Using Tracing Paper continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

31. Test the tracing paper on a scrap of fabric first  Make sure the marking is visible on the wrong side of the fabric and that it does not show on the right side Using Tracing Paper

32. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-2 Review Why do some fabrics need to be cut out using the with nap layout?  these fabrics appear light and shiny when viewed in one direction and darker when viewed in another True or false. Pin a pattern piece as soon as you lay it down on the fabric.  false—pin after all the pattern pieces are on the fabric continued

33. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-2 Review Which type of shears are best for cutting out pattern pieces?  dressmaker shears List five types of pattern markings that need to be transferred to the fabric.  (List five:) center front, center back, darts, buttons, buttonholes, dots, pockets

34. Basic Sewing Techniques Section 12-3 pt. 2

35.  Perform directional stitching and staystitching.  Construct darts and gathers.  Sew seams.  Complete the construction of sewing projects that include fasteners and hems. Objectives

36.  You need to be familiar with stitching techniques  Directional stitching is stitching in the direction of the grain Directional stitching Stitching Techniques continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

37.  Staystitching keeps the edges of garment pieces from stretching out of shape as you sew Staystitching A line of machine stitching is made through a single layer of fabric, ½-inch from edges Stitching Techniques continued

38.  Use staystitching  on bias and curved edges (necklines and armholes)  to stabilize knits, other stretchy fabrics, and loose weaves Stitching Techniques © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

39. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Did You Know? A fabric’s true bias runs at a 45-degree angle across it This is where woven fabrics have the most stretch © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

40.  Darts and gathers  give shape to your garment  are made before seams are sewn Darts and Gathers © D. Vesna/Shutterstock

41.  Darts give shape and fullness to garments Darts  A dart is made by stitching to a point through a fold in the fabric Darts continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

42.  Darts point to the fullest part of body curves  On skirts and slacks, darts begin at the waistline and taper to the hipline  In jackets, shirts, and blouses, darts taper to the fullest part of the chest Darts

43.  Techniques to use when two seamlines of unequal length must be sewn together  Easing makes a piece of fabric fit a slightly smaller piece of fabric as a flat, curved seam is sewn Easing Gathering and Easing continued

44.  Gathering is used when ripples and soft folds are needed at a seamline that joins two different lengths of fabric Gathering Gathering and Easing continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

45.  Two lines of long stitches are made inside the seam allowance  Threads are pulled to gather fabric  Distribute gathers evenly  Insert pins  Stitch Gathering and Easing

46.  A seam is a row of stitches that join garment pieces togetherseam Seams continued © Peter Nadolski/Shutterstock

47.  Most common seam is the plain seam  Place right sides of the fabric together  Sew a ⅝ - inch seam allowance  Backstitching at both ends Backstitching  Press Seams

48.  Trimming is cutting away part of a seam allowance to reduce bulk Trimming Trimming, Grading, Clipping, and Notching continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

49.  Grading is trimming each layer of the seam allowance to a different width Grading Trimming, Grading, Clipping, and Notching continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

50.  Clipping is making straight cuts toward the stitching lines Clipping  Notching is cutting small wedges from seam allowances to remove excess fabric Notching Trimming, Grading, Clipping, and Notching © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

51.  Seam finishes prevent the raw edges of seams from raveling  A pinked finish is created using pinking shears to cut close to the edge of the seam allowance  A zigzag finish is created by stitching through each seam allowance with the zigzag stitch Seam Finishes

52.  Parts of a garment are kept closed by one or more fasteners  snaps  hooks and eyes  buttons  hook-and-loop tape Fasteners © Nayashkova Olga/Shutterstock

53.  When sewing buttons, allow space for a thread shankthread shank  Length of the shank depends on the thickness of the garment Buttons continued © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

55.  Some buttons have shanks attached  Transfer buttonhole markings from the pattern  Consult buttonhole directions that came with your machine Buttons © Skazka Grez/Shutterstock

56.  Hemming is the final step  A well-sewn hem  is level  lies flat  cannot be seen on the outside of the garment Hems © Karkas/Shutterstock

57. 1.Mark the desired length with pins 2.Turn up and pin the hem to the inside of the garment 3.Press a light crease at the hem edge 4.Mark an even width along the hem 5.Trim along the marked line Marking the Hem

58.  The hem edge needs to be finished before it is stitched to the garment  Choice of finish depends on the fabric and style of the garment Finishing the Hem Edge

59.  For medium- and lightweight fabrics that ravel Turned and Stitched Finish © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

60.  For fabrics that do not ravel Stitched and Pinked Finish © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

61.  Used most often for knits Zigzag Finish © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

62.  For medium- and heavyweight fabrics that ravel  Stretch-lace binding tape is used on curved hems and hems of fabrics that stretch Seam Binding Tape © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

63.  Most hems are stitched by hand using a single thread  Stitch used depends on the hem finish and type of fabric  hemming stitch  slip stitch  blind stitch  catch stitch Stitching the Hem

64. Hemming Stitch © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

65. Slip Stitch © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

66. Blind Stitch © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

67. Catch Stitch © Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

68.  Other hemming methods include machine stitching or using fusible material Stitching the Hem © danymages/Shutterstock

69. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-3 Review What parts of a garment piece need to be staystitched?  bias and curved edges, such as necklines and armholes What two techniques are used when two seamlines of unequal length are sewn together?  easing and gathering continued

70. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-3 Review Explain how backstitching is done.  sew backward and forward in the same place for a few stitches to secure the thread ends What should you consider when choosing a hem finish?  the fabric and style of the garment

71. Extending the Life of Clothes Section 12-4 pt. 2

72.  Describe common repairs clothes may need.  Alter the seams and hems of clothes.  Suggest ways to restyle clothes.  Identify ways to recycle clothes you can no longer wear. Objectives

73.  Even if you never want to sew your own clothes, you can make repairs Repairing Clothes continued © SARYMSAKOV ANDREY/Shutterstock

74.  Repair split seams  Secure loose buttons  Replace broken zippers  Stitch loose hems  Smooth snagged areas  Patch holes Repairing Clothes

75. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Think Further  Have you ever repaired any of your own clothes? © Dennis Owusu-Ansah/Shutterstock

76.  To repair is to restore something to its original condition—to alter is to change the size Altering Clothes continued © Smileus/Shutterstock

77.  If a garment is too large or small, you may be able to make it fit by altering the seams  If a garment is too long or short, you may be able to alter the hem Altering Clothes

78.  Making a garment smaller is fairly simple Altering Seams continued © baranq/Shutterstock

79.  To make a garment smaller 1.Put the garment on inside out 2.Pin new seams to the snugness you want 3.Baste along pinned lines 4.Try the garment on again to ensure fit 5.Stitch with a regular machine stitch Altering Seams continued

80.  To enlarge a garment by letting out a seam is more difficult 1.Determine how much wider the garment should be 2.Measure the seam allowance to see how much the seams can be let out 3.If there is enough space, begin altering Altering Seams

81.  Changing a hemline can make a garment fit better or appear more fashionable Altering Hems continued © Sean Nel/Shutterstock

82.  To shorten a garment 1.R emove old hem and press out crease 2.Tr y garment on and have someone mark desired length 3.T urn hem under and pin in place 4.T ry on garment to check new length 5.C omplete stitching of hem Altering Hems continued

83.  To lengthen a garment, the existing hem must be deep enough to add the desired amount 1.Remove the existing hem 2.Press out the crease 3.Mark the new hem 4.Hem the garment Altering Hems

84.  When you restyle a garment, you change it to create a different lookrestyle Restyling Clothes continued © new vave/Shutterstock

85.  Cover worn elbows with patches  Remove cuffs  Add decorative trims  Dye the garment  Change buttons Restyling Clothes

86.  Recycling clothes means reusing garments in different ways Recycling Clothes continued © Norman Chan/Shutterstock

87.  Give wearable clothes to someone  Have a garage sale  Take garments to a consignment shop  Donate items to charitable organizations  Reuse portions to make new items Recycling Clothes

88. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Think Further  How can you recycle a clothing item you currently own? © thaikrit/Shutterstock

89. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-4 Review How do you repair a split seam?  turn the garment inside out, pin the seam together, sew on the seamline Why should a snag in a garment be repaired as soon as possible?  a small snag can catch and become a large run continued

90. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Section 12-4 Review True or false. Letting out a seam to enlarge a garment is easier than making the garment smaller.  false—it is easier to make a garment smaller

91. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary adjustment lines. Two parallel lines that extend across a pattern piece, indicating where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece. alteration. A change made to the size of a pattern or garment to achieve better fit. backstitching. Sewing backward and forward in the same place for a few stitches to secure thread ends.

92. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary clipping. Making straight cuts in a seam allowance toward the stitching line, usually at ½-inch intervals, to prevent puckering. cutting layout. A drawing showing how to fold fabric and place pattern pieces for cutting. cutting line. A bold line on pattern pieces used as a guide for cutting fabric.

93. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary dart. A construction element used to give shape and fullness to a garment made by stitching to a point through a fold in the fabric. directional stitching. Stitching in the direction of the grain. dot. A pattern symbol used to match seams and other construction details.

94. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary easing. Making a piece of fabric fit a slightly smaller piece of fabric as a flat, curved seam is sewn to provide fabric fullness at certain points on the body. gathering. Creating ripples and soft folds in a fabric that is attached to a shorter length of fabric. grading. Trimming each layer of a seam allowance to a different width.

95. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary grain. The two basic directions that yarns run in a woven fabric. grainline arrow. A pattern symbol indicating that a pattern piece is to be placed on fabric parallel to its lengthwise edge. multisize pattern. A garment pattern designed with three or more sizes on one pattern tissue.

96. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary notch. A diamond-shaped pattern symbol located on the cutting line and used to match garment pieces before sewing them together. notching. Cutting small wedges out of the seam allowance to remove excess fabric. pattern guide sheet. A set of instructions included with every pattern that has step-by- step directions for the sewing project.

97. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary restyle. To change a garment to give it a different look. seam. A row of stitching that joins garment pieces together. seam allowance. The space between the cutting line on a pattern and the stitching line, usually ⅝-inch wide.

98. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary selvage. One of two finished lengthwise edges on a piece of fabric. staystitching. A line of machine stitching that keeps the edges of garment pieces from stretching out of shape while being sewn.

99. Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Glossary stitching line. The seamline, which is ⅝-inch inside a pattern’s cutting line; is unmarked in multisize patterns, but marked as a broken line in single-size patterns. thread shank. A short stem of thread that provides room for a button to lie over the buttonhole fabric. trimming. Cutting away part of a seam allowance to reduce bulk.