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Abiotic Disorders: Soil and Fertilizer Components Janet Hartin UCCE Environmental Horticulturist San Bernardino, Los Angeles, and Riverside Counties
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Mineral matter Organic matter Air Water Major Components
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Physical Properties of Soil Soil texture Soil structure Soil color Bulk density
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USDA Textural Triangle
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Soil Textures
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Examples of Soil Structure
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Compaction Can Destroy Soil
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Where Does Compost Fit In?
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What is composting? Grass clippings Food scraps Leaves Using the natural process of decay to change organic wastes into a valuable humus-like material called compost Compost
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Compost Promotes Soil Health Supplies organic matter to soil Attracts earthworms Stimulates beneficial soil microorganisms Increases soil and nutrient water holding capacity in sandy soils/drainage in heavy soils
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Compost Supplies Some Plant Nutrients Compost is not a fertilizer, but does contain plant nutrients Nitrogen and phosphorus are mostly in organic forms – Released slowly to plants – Not readily leached from the topsoil Compost contains small amounts of nutrients that are essential for plant growth
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When is Compost Ready? Compost is mature when It is dark brown It is crumbly, loose, and humus-like It has an earthy smell It contains no readily recognizable feedstock The pile has shrunk to about 1/3 of its original volume
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Simple Tests to Ensure Compost Readiness Bag test: Compost left in a plastic bag should remain fresh-smelling after two days! Germination test: Make sure that seeds actually germinate in it!
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Using Finished Compost Soil amendment – This is the main use of compost. – Mix evenly into soil at least 6 inches deep for annuals and 12 inches for shrubs. Add at least 30% by volume. – Do not add compost to tree planting sites!
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Avoid Root-Bound Trees!
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Fertilizers and Plant Nutrition
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Essential Plant Nutrients Macronutrients – Required in relatively large amounts. Micronutrients – Required in small amounts. – Minor or trace elements.
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Macronutrients Fall into one of three categories: – Non-Mineral Elements – Primary Nutrients – Secondary Nutrients
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Non-Mineral Elements (C) Carbon (H) Hydrogen (O) Oxygen
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Primary Nutrients (N) Nitrogen (P) Phosphorus (K) Potassium
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Secondary Nutrients (Ca) Calcium (Mg) Magnesium (S) Sulfur
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Micronutrients (Fe) Iron (Cu) Copper (Zn) Zinc (B) Boron (Mo) Molybdenum (Mn) Manganese (Cl) Chlorine
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Function & Deficiency Symptoms of Nutrients
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Nitrogen Function – Promotes growth of leaves and stems. – Gives dark green color and improves quality of foliage. – Necessary to develop cell proteins and chlorophyll.
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Nitrogen Deficiency Symptoms – Sick, yellow-green color. – Short stems, small leaves, pale colored leaves and flowers. – Slow and dwarfed plant growth.
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Phosphorus Functions – Stimulates early formation & growth of plants. – Provides for fast & vigorous growth and speeds maturity. – Stimulates flowering & seed development. – Necessary for the enzyme action of many plant processes.
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Phosphorus Deficiency Symptoms – Decrease in growth. – Slow maturity. – Older leaves are purplish color.
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Potassium Functions – Used to form carbohydrates & proteins. – Formation and transfer of starches, sugars, & oils. – Increases disease resistance, vigor, & hardiness.
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Potassium Deficiency Symptoms – Mottled, spotted, streaked or curled leaves. – Scorches, burned, dead leaf tips & margins.
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Potassium Deficiency Symptoms – Mottled, spotted, streaked or curled leaves. – Scorches, burned, dead leaf tips & margins.
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Calcium Functions – Improves plant vigor. – Influences intake & synthesis of other plant nutrients. – Important part of cell walls.
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Calcium Functions – Improves plant vigor. – Influences intake & synthesis of other plant nutrients. – Important part of cell walls.
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Magnesium Functions – Influence the intake of other essential nutrients. – Helps make fats. – Assists in translocation of phosphorus & fats.
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Magnesium Deficiency Symptoms – Interveinal chlorosis. (Yellowing of leaves between green veins) – Leaf tips curl or cup upward. – Slender, weak stems.
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Sulfur Functions – Promotes root growth and vigorous vegetative growth. – Essential to protein formation.
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Sulfur Deficiency Symptoms – Young leaves are light green with lighter color veins. – Yellow leaves and stunted growth.
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Iron Functions – Essential for chlorophyll production. – Helps carry electrons to mix oxygen with other elements.
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Iron Deficiency Symptoms – Mottled & interveinal chlorosis in young leaves. – Stunted growth & slender, short leaves.
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Copper Functions – Helps in the use of iron. – Helps respiration.
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Copper Deficiency Symptoms – Young leaves are small and permanently wilt. – Multiple buds at stem tips.
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Zinc Functions – Plant metabolism. – Helps form growth hormones. – Reproduction.
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Zinc Deficiency Symptoms – Retarded growth between nodes (rosetted) – New leaves are thick & small. – Spotted between veins, discolored veins.
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Boron Functions – Affects water absorption by roots. – Translocation of sugars.
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Boron Deficiency Symptoms – Short, thick stems tips. – Young leaves of terminal buds are light green at base. – Leaves become twisted & die.
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Boron Deficiency Symptoms – Short, thick stems tips. – Young leaves of terminal buds are light green at base. – Leaves become twisted & die.
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Manganese Functions – Plant metabolism. – Nitrogen transformation.
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Manganese Deficiency Symptoms – Interveinal chlorosis. – Young leaves die.
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Complete vs. Incomplete Fertilizers Complete Fertilizers – Contain all 3 primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, & potassium) Examples: – 10-10-10 – 15-30-15 – 20-5-20
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Complete vs. Incomplete Fertilizers Incomplete Fertilizers – DO NOT have all 3 primary nutrients. Examples: – 20-0-0 – 0-20-0 – 12-0-44
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Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizers Organic Fertilizers – Come from plant or animal matter & contain carbon compounds. Examples: – Urea – Sludge – Animal Tankage
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Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizers Advantages of Organic Fertilizers – Slow release of nutrients. – Not easily leached from soil (less potential to result in water pollution). – Add organic components to soil.
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Organic vs. Inorganic Fertilizers Disadvantages of Organic Fertilizers – Expensive – Low nutrient content – Take longer to show effects
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■ Alfalfa Meal Average NPK analysis: 2-1-2 ■ Blood Meal Average NPK analysis: 12-0-0 ■ Bone Meal Average NPK analysis: Varies from about 1-11-0 to about 3-15-0, also contains about 24 percent calcium. ■ Coffee Grounds Average NPK analysis: 2-0.3-0.6 ■ Compost Average NPK analysis: 0.5-0.5-0.5 to 4-4-4; about (25 percent organic matter). ■ Cottonseed Meal Average NPK analysis: 6-0.4-1.5 N-P-K Content of Some Organic Products
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■ Eggshells (adds calcium mostly) Average NPK analysis: About 1.2-0.4-0.1 ■ Epsom Salts Average analysis: 10 percent magnesium, 13 percent sulfur. ■ Feather Meal Average analysis: Nitrogen 7 to 12 percent. ■ Fish Emulsion Average NPK analysis: 5-2-2, also contains sulfur. ■ Mushroom Compost Average NPK analysis: About 2-1-1 ■ Soybean Meal Average NPK analysis: 7-2-1 ■ Worm Castings Average NPK analysis: 0.5-0.5-0.3
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Choosing a Fertilizer
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General Rules Method used should be…. – Practical – Effective – Cost Efficient Method used affects nutrient availability for plant use. Fertilizer must be dissolved and reach plant roots.
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Banding Placing a band of fertilizer about 2 inches to the sides & about 2 inches below seed depth. Do NOT place below seeds because fertilizer will burn roots.
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Sidedressing Placing a band of fertilizer near the soil surface and to the sides after seedlings emerge from the soil.
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Topdressing Mixing fertilizer uniformly into the top one to two inches of growing media around the plant.
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Perforating Placing fertilizer in 12 – 18” holes drilled 18 – 24” around the canopy drip line of fruit trees. Cover the holes & the fertilizer slowly dissolves.
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Broadcasting Spreading fertilizer to cover the entire production area.
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How much Fertilizer do Landscape and Edible Plants Need? Most vegetables: -0.5 to 2 lbs of nitrogen per 100 feet of row. -Ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) is a good choice if compost hasn’t been worked into the soil -When seedlings are 3-4” reapply
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Before planting fruit trees place one of the following in the bottom of the planting hole and cover with 1-2 inches of soil: 1 lb treble super phosphate (0-45-0) 2 lb single super phosphate (0-25-0) 2 pounds fine phosphate rock* 3 ½ pounds bone meal* 7 to 8 pounds well composted/aged manure* * Blend with backfill to avoid burning the roots. Plant the tree. Then, spread an equal amount of one of the above on the soil surface around the tree.
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Nitrogen Application – Fruit Trees Amount of nitrogen to Apply Per Tree Per Year Season Orange Juice Can Lbs. of Ammonium Sulfate Lbs. of Actual N 1st (after planting) ½ can (twice) 0.50.1 2nd 1 can (twice) 1.00.2 3rd3 cans1.50.3 4th5 cans2.50.5 5th7 cans3.50.7 6th8 to 10 cans4.50.8 to 1.0
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Landscape Tree Fertilization -Not more than.5 lb N per inch trunk circumference -OK to wait until minor symptoms develop
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Lawn Fertilization Total: 4-5 lbs N/year -2-3 lbs N as ammonium sulfate -2-3 lbs N as a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer
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Lawns: 3-1-2 NPK Ratio twice a Year
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Why Have Garden Soil Tested? Most Important Reasons: -To determine pH (too high can tie up micronutrients) -To determine salt content (plant injury) Other Reasons: -To determine texture (sand, silt, clay) and water holding capacity (although you can do this easily yourself using a jar of water) - To determine nutrient content (too much or too little)
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There is no Need to Test Levels of Nitrogen Since it is so Mobile! -Results will be invalid by the time you receive the results -Apply nitrogen based on MG Handbook recommendations for various types of plants
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How to Conduct a Soil Test -Identify homogeneous areas of your yard -Collect between 6-10 soil samples within each area and mix them together thoroughly -Sample depth should be between 6” and 1’ depending on type of plant and root zone -Submit about 1 pint (2 cups) to a reputable soil testing lab
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Tips -Avoid fertilizing or adding soil amendments just prior to testing -Make sure compost and other organic soil amendments are broken down and stable before their addition -Consider water quality as well. It may need to be tested
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Tips (con’d) Most nutrient-related problems can be controlled simply by reducing pH and EC levels. - High pH (above 7.5) can tie up nutrients such as zinc, iron, and manganese. - Add elemental sulfur or fertilizer with nitrogen sulfate to reduce a high pH - Add organic matter to your soil or garden in raised beds amended with organic matter and/or peat
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Refer to Table Below for Rates
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Electrical Conductivity -Measures how easily an electrical current can pass through the soil -High EC value indicates high salt levels -Many plants are sensitive to salt contents as low as 3-4 dS/m. Most are sensitive to ECs above 8 dS/m -Salts include cations and anions that are essential plant nutrients (such as potassium and nitrate) as well non-essential elements such as sodium
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High Levels of Sodium
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A Few Very Salt-Sensitive Plants -Crape myrtle -Plum -Apple -Pear -Desert Willow
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A Few Salt-Tolerant Plants -Honey locust -Honey Mesquite -Chilean mesquite -Salt Cedar -Salt grass
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This Website Lists Salt Tolerances of Several Plants http://ucanr.org/sites/sjcoeh/files/98902.pdf
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How Can you Reduce Levels of Harmful Salts? -Leach below the root system (apply water slowly for several hours) -If high EC is due to sodium, apply gypsum to displace sodium with calcium (you still need to leach the sodium out though!)
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The Michigan State University Soil Test Website Allows You to Type in Test Results (pH, nutrient levels, CEC, etc. for Specific Recommendations in Landscapes and Gardens Msusoiltest.com
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Thank You! Janet Hartin jshartin@ucanr.edu (951)313-2023 jshartin@ucanr.edu
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