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The Art of the Cold Kitchen
Garde Manger The Art of the Cold Kitchen
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What are objectives? Demonstrate the proper techniques for brining.
Explain the difference between cold smoking, hot smoking and smoke roasting Understand what is a forcemeat, and terrine. Understand the ratios used in aspic, and mousse Demonstrate the proper technique for preparing: sausages, terrines and savory mousse
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The professional Garde Manger
Originally term referred to a cold or cool storage area hams, sausages, cheeses Pates, terrines Cold smoked food Cold foods were also prepared here Evolved to become a position in the kitchen
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Brining Why would you want to brine something? Tenderizes Adds Flavor
Adds moisture Especially useful for items that will have a long cook time But works wonderfully with quick cook items as well
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Classic formula 4 gal. Water 1 lb salt 1 lb sugar 1 gal of ice
Heat I gal of water add salt sugar and any other flavorings. Dissolve salt and sugar add the 3 gal cold water and ice to chill the brine.
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How long do we brine? Chicken or duck breast 24/36 hrs
Chicken whole 24/36 hrs Pork butt or loin 5/6 days Turkey whole 5/6 days Corn brisket 7/8 days Ham boneless 4 days Ham bone-in 20/24 days
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Can we cut back that time?
Large items can be injected with brine using a brine pump with an injection needle Use 10% of the items weight in brine
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Drying Many items could be cured, cold smoked then air-dried
Temperature and humidity have to be monitored closely If done right items can be stored at room temperature, Why? Cured food should be dried before cold smoking Under refrigeration 2 – 3 days allow pellicle to form Give product a tacky but glossy surface, allow smoke to adhere more easily
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Curing What is curing Why would I do it
Curing is the generic term for: Brining Pickling Corning solutions Dry curing Why would I do it Adds flavor Removes moisture Preservation Long cold smoke times
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Dry curing Can be as simple as salt alone
Usually a sweetener and other flavorings are added Overhauling product packed in cure that is turned and recovered periodically Cures can be made on site or commercial products may be purchased Insta cure #1 TCM – tinted curing mixture Insta cure #2 Prague powder
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Dry cure times for meat ¼” thick approximate 1 -2 hours
1” thick lean meat 3 – 8 hours 1 1/2” thick (pork belly) 7 – 10 days Ham, bone in ( lbs) days
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Smoking! Why do we do it? There are three types
Originally for preservation Discovered interesting flavor from smoke Flavors can be manipulated by amount and types of wood There are three types Cold hot Smoke-roasting
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Cold smoke What items are suitable for cold smoking
Items that will be air dried Items that have been cured (salt) Items that are to be further cooked What temperature do we cold smoke at 100° or less Over 100° the denaturing of the proteins will radically change the texture Think baked salmon vs. smoked salmon
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Hot smoking Exposes food to smoke and heat source
Often food is reheated before service but it is not required Temperature range of 165° - 185°
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Smoke roasting Refers to any method that has the attributes of both smoking and roasting This is what barbecue is all about Traditionally done between 200° - 250°
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FORCEMEATS
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What is a forcemeat? Meat that has been ground and mixed with other ingredients to make a filling
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Sausages Comes from the word salsus Means salt
Ancient Roman and Greeks manufactured sausage form anything available as early as the 9th century b.c.e.
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Sausages Smoked Poached Dried and fermented Hot or cold smoked
Cold smoke needs additives to prevent bacteria growth Poached Do not let water boil or emulsion will break Dried and fermented
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How do you make them? Basic ratio is 70% meat 30% fat
If you do not have enough fat product will be dry You may need to do a progressive grind Start off with a larger plate then each time you put a smaller plate on grinder and pass through It is critical that all equipment be clean, sanitized and COLD Process of going through grinder causes friction which in turn raises the temperature of your product
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Aspic gelee Clear coating sauce for platters or products
Adding the proper amount of gelatin to clarified liquid to achieve desired consistency Stock Juices essences
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What are the proper ratios
Per gal per pint gel strength 2 oz/57 g ¼ oz 7g delicate 4oz /113g ½ oz/14 g coating gel 6-8 oz/ g 1 oz/28g sliceable gel 10-12 oz/ g 1 ¼ -1 ½ oz firm gel 16 oz/454g 2 oz/57g mousse strength
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gel strength Delicate coating gel sliceable gel firm gel
Slicing not required individual portions, jellied consommés coating gel Coating individual items sliceable gel When product will be sliced filling pate en croute firm gel Coating platters for display mousse strength When product must retain shape
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How to work with powdered gelatin
Weigh gelatin carefully Scatter gelatin over cool liquid, avoid clumps, if liquid is warm gelatin will not soften properly Bloom gelatin as the gelatin blooms the granules absorb moisture and become enlarged Melt gelatin Over hot water bath Or add bloomed gelatin to warm liquid 100°-110°
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