1. CHEMICAL
HAIR
RELAXING

2. Learning Objectives Define Chemical Hair Relaxing
At the end of this unit, SWBAT:
Define Chemical Hair Relaxing
List the different types of relaxers and their results.
Explain the importance of a base cream.
Explain the difference between a sodium hydroxide relaxer and a thio relaxer.
Describe the three basic steps in Chemical Hair Relaxing
Demonstrate procedures for a virgin relaxer, and a retouch relaxer.
Demonstrate the procedure for a soft curl permanent.

3. Which client has a Chemical Relaxer? How can you tell?

4. CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXERS
Chemical hair relaxing is the process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight or less curly form.
The chemical process is very similar although the results are opposite from permanent waving hair.
The chemistry of thio relaxers and permanent waving is exactly the same.
All relaxing and permanent waving services change the shape of the hair by breaking disulfide bonds.

5. FYI
Clients will refer to a Chemical (Perm) wave AND a Chemical relaxer as a ‘PERM’!!!
BEWARE OF WORDAGE AND CLARIFY!

6. TWO MOST COMMON TYPES Ammonium thioglycolate Sodium hydroxide
Also known as thio relaxers
Sodium hydroxide
Also called hydroxide relaxers
Have the Carefree curl re-arranger in the classroom as a visual.
Have a K-Kurl relaxer in the classroom as a visual. Have students look at the consistency and smell.
What’s the difference in the smell?

7. CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING

8. CHARACTERISTICS
Highly alkaline; can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly.
Most use same ingredients as depilatories.

9. EXTREMELY CURLY HAIR This type of hair exists in all races.
All races can have hair with different degrees of curliness.
This hair grows in long twisted spirals or coils.
Cross-sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness.
The hair is irregular in diameter along a single strand.
Twists of extremely curly hair are the weakest, and that’s where hair will usually break.
Elliptical- small plane curve shaped like an oval (ellipse)

10. THIO RELAXERS These usually have a pH above 10.
Main ingredient is ammonium thioglycolate.
These usually have a higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than used in permanent waving.
These are thicker, with a higher viscosity that is more suitable for application as a relaxer.
They break disulfide bonds and soften hair.
After enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and relaxer is rinsed from hair.
Viscosity- thickness or stickiness of a fluid

11. THIO NEUTRALIZATION
The neutralizer is an oxidizing agent—usually hydrogen peroxide.
The reaction rebuilds disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer.

12. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient.
Sodium hydroxide
Potassium hydroxide
Lithium hydroxide
Guanidine hydroxide
All types of hydroxide relaxers have strong alkalis that can swell hair up to twice its normal diameter

13. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS These are not compatible with thio relaxers.
They have a pH of 13.0 or more.
Because each step in the pH scale is a tenfold change in concentration, a pH of 13.0 is 100 million times more alkaline than a pH of 5.0.

14. HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond and convert it to a lanthionine bond by a process called lanthionization.
Disulfide bonds contain two sulfur atoms.
Lanthionine bonds contain one sulfur atom.
Disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers are broken permanently and can never be re-formed.

15. Memory Jogger Define Chemical hair relaxing
What are the two most common types of relaxers? Ammonium _____________ and sodium _______________
Draw what the hair looks like before a relaxer and after a relaxer.
Which bonds are broken during a relaxer ?
What is the pH level of thio Chemical Hair relaxers?
T or F –All hydroxide relaxers have strong alkalis that can swell hair up to twice its normal diameter.
What is the pH level of sodium hydroxide relaxers?
The process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight or less curly form.
Thioglycolate and hydroxide
S and straight line
Disulfide
10.0
True
13.0 or more

16. MEMORY JOGGER ANSWERS
The process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straight or less curly form.
Thioglycolate and hydroxide
S and straight line
Disulfide
10.0
True
13.0 or more

17. Notice the pH level of Relaxers
Notice where the hydroxide relaxer is on the pH scale.
What does that mean?
Hydroxide relaxers are approx. 100,000,000 times stronger than the natural pH of the hair.
The potential for damage and injury is high if not applied properly.

18. HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION
This process does not involve oxidation.
Deactivation occurs by using an acid-balanced shampoo or a normalizing lotion.
CAUTION: Hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxers is unfit for thio relaxers or soft curl permanents.

19. TYPES OF
SODIUM HYDROXIDE
RELAXERS

20. METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
These are ionic compounds formed by a metal that is combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
Metal hydroxide relaxers include:
Sodium hydroxide relaxers commonly called lye relaxers or caustic soda; this is the most common type of hair relaxer. It’s the same chemical as used in drain cleaners and chemical hair depilatories.
Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, which are often advertised as “no mix-no lye” relaxers. They are not “lye,” but their chemistry and performance is identical.

21. GUANIDINE HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
Are advertised and sold as “no lye” relaxers
Hydroxide the active ingredient
Require two components that must be mixed
Straighten hair completely
Irritate scalp less than hydroxide relaxers
Recommended for sensitive scalps
Sold over the counter
Reduce scalp irritation
Do not reduce hair damage
Swell hair more than other hydroxide relaxers and are also more drying

22. LOW pH RELAXERS
Sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers.
The most commonly used are ammonium sulfite and ammonium bisulfite.
They are compatible with thio relaxers.
They are not compatible with hydroxide relaxers.
They do not completely straighten extremely curly hair.
Low pH relaxers are intended for use on color-treated hair.

23. BASE AND NO-BASE RELAXERS
These require application of a base cream.
A base cream is an oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
NO-BASE RELAXERS
Protective base is not required.
These contain a base cream that melts at body temperature.
Protective base cream may be applied around ears and hairline.
What’s the difference and why is it important?

24. RELAXER STRENGTHS Available in Three Strengths
Mild—for fine, color-treated, or damaged hair
Regular—intended for normal hair texture
Super—used on extremely curly, coarse hair

25. CHEMICAL
HAIR
RELAXING
PROCEDURES

26. HYDROXIDE RELAXER
Many steps for both thio and hydroxide relaxers are the same.
All hydroxide relaxers follow the same procedure, but different application methods are used for virgin and retouch relaxers.

27. VIRGIN RELAXER
This application is used only for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services.
Product is applied ¼ to ½ an inch from scalp up to the porous ends.
To avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, do not apply relaxer to scalp hair or ends until last few minutes of processing.
Figure 15-03

28. RETOUCH RELAXER Figure 15-111
This application is used for hair that has had previous chemical texture services.
Application starts ¼ to ½ inch away from scalp and includes new growth only.
To avoid overprocessing and scalp irritation, do not apply relaxer to the scalp until the last few minutes of processing.
Normalizing solution is a conditioner with an acidic pH that conditions the hair and restores the natural pH after rinsing out the .relaxer and prior to shampooing.
Figure

29. PERIODIC STRAND TESTING
This test indicates when hair is sufficiently relaxed.
After relaxer is applied, stretch strands to see how fast natural curls are being removed.
If strand remains smooth, it’s sufficiently relaxed.
If curl returns, continue processing.
Figure 15-97

30. THIO RELAXER PROCEDURES
Application steps are the same for hydroxide relaxers except that the neutralization procedure is different.
Relaxer may be applied with bowl and brush, applicator bottle, or back of rattail comb.

31. RELAXER TEST

33. Base Cream

34. Smoothing Complete
Show the Milady DVD of “Chemical Hair Relaxers”

35. SOFT CURL PERMANENT Soft curl permanents do not straighten hair.
They make existing curl larger and looser.
This is also called a Jheri curl.
A combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent is wrapped on large rods.
Soft curl perms use ammonium thioglycolate and oxidation neutralizers.

36. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Perform a thorough hair analysis and client consultation.
Examine the scalp for abrasions.
Keep accurate and detailed client records of the services.
Have client sign release statement.
Do not apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with thio relaxer and vice versa.
Do not chemically relax hair treated with a metallic dye.
Do not relax overly damaged hair.
Do not shampoo the client prior to a hydroxide relaxer service.
Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation.

37. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Wear gloves during the relaxer application.
Protect the client’s eyes.
Do not allow chemical relaxers to contact client’s ears, scalp, or skin.
Perform periodic strand tests.
Avoid scratching scalp with comb or fingernails.
Do not allow application of a relaxer retouch to overlap onto previously relaxed hair.
Never use a strong relaxer on fine or damaged hair.
See textbook

38. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Do not attempt to remove more than 80 percent of the natural curl.
Thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from the hair.
Use a normalizing lotion to restore hair to natural pH.
Use neutralizing shampoo with a color indicator to guarantee that hair and scalp have been restored to normal acidic pH.
Use a conditioner and wide-tooth comb to eliminate excessive stretching when combing out tangles.
Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair.

39. Relaxers GONE WRONG!!!

40. SUMMARY
One of the best ways to control the texture of your client’s extremely curly hair is through the use of chemical relaxers.
Sodium hydroxide is used most often in hair relaxing.
Thorough hair and scalp examination is critical before giving any type of chemical service; it will also help you to determine the type of product and strength of product to be used.
A strand test will guide you in how long the product should be left on the hair.

41. SUMMARY Follow manufacturers’ directions.
The speed attained in applying relaxer is very important in the service.
Extensive practice using mock products will help you gain speed of application.
It is important to review, remember, and practice all the safety precautions identified for these services.
Remember never to relax the hair more than 80 percent.

42. LET’S TALK MONEY $$$
HOW MUCH MONEY CAN YOU MAKE IN AN 8 HOUR DAY IF YOU GAVE 5 RELAXER $85.00 PER CLIENT?
THIS INCLUDES THE HAIRCUT AND SET.

43. BASIC APPLICATIONS

44. Equipment and Supplies
Chemical relaxer
Neutralizing shampoo
Conditioner
Towels
Plastic clips
Gloves
Protective base
Rollers, clips
Large tooth comb
Tint brush
Applicator bowl
Record card
Release form
Timer
Setting lotion

45. Procedure for a BASIC Virgin Sodium Hydroxide relaxer
1.Part the hair into 4 sections using a large tooth comb.
2. Apply protective cream around hairline, ears and nape.
3. Put gloves on both hands.
4. Apply relaxer ¼ to 1” away from scalp down the hair
shaft and 1” from ends.
5.Continue applying relaxer, until entire head is covered.
6. Process according to manufacturer’s directions.
(check with client for sensitivity and smooth to check for straightness.)
7. After processing is complete, rinse the hair thoroughly with very warm water.
8. Apply neutralizing shampoo. Do not lather, work it through smoothing the hair.

46. Procedure for a BASIC Virgin Sodium Hydroxide relaxer
9. Rinse thoroughly.
10. Apply neutralizing shampoo again and work into a lather.
11. Rinse thoroughly.
12. Repeat Step # 10 and 11.
13. Towel dry the hair.
14. Condition. Rinse.
15. Cut and style.
Clean up and Sanitation
Disinfect implements and store in kit.
Clean used material and return to proper place.
Wash the shampoo bowl and wipe water from the floor.
Clean, and sanitize your work station.
Wash your hands.
Complete client record card.

47. Procedure for a Basic Sodium Hydroxide Retouch Relaxer
Part the hair into 4 sections.
Apply protective base cream .
Put gloves on both hands.
Begin retouch application in the most resistant area of the head, usually the crown area.
Apply the relaxer ¼ from scalp to the new growth only. Use rattail comb or tint brush.
6. Do not allow the relaxer to touch the scalp until the last few minutes.
7. Continue applying the relaxer to all 4 sections as in Step 5.
8. After the relaxer has been applied to all sections, smooth each section with the brush or back of the rattail comb.
9. When processing is complete, rinse the hair thoroughly with very warm water.

48. THINK, PAIR, SHARE THINK- Answer questions individually PAIR-
Get with a partner and compare answers
SHARE-
Discuss your answers. How and why you choose your answers.
Use this activity for review quizzes