1. Croquis and Language of Fashion

2. Croquis Sketch of a live model Method of drawing a fashion figure
Too tall in comparison to the real models
9 heads tall
Magazine models are closer to 8 heads

4. Croquis guidelines Head consumes space between 0 and 1
Chest starts at 1.5- always leans one direction
Waist is at 3 heads
Pelvis starts at 3.25 and goes just below 4 heads- slanted other direction
Knees are at 6.5 heads
Ankle at 8.5 heads
Foot touches floor at 9 heads
Elbows are at 2.5 heads
Hands extend to 5 heads

5. Example Follow with me as I go through this example.
Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Wipe your transparency and try again.

6. Practice On graph paper… draw a line 9 units long
Follow the guidelines to draw a head. Draw an entire croquis
Draw another one.
DRAW TWO GREAT CROQUIS, leaning opposite ways, on a plain sheet of paper- 9 inches tall (each one)- you will be keeping these ones

7. Fleshing out
Add flesh to the sides of your model to determine their size… the proportions never change no matter the size of the person.
Remember when designing
clothes, rarely are they skin tight

8. Example Follow with me as I go through this example.
Take your transparency and marker, place over your croquis and copy. Flesh out your croquis. Wipe your transparency and try again.

9. Next
Flesh out your croquis on your graph paper and your larger ones

10. Why??
These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes.

11. Why??
These are the basis for drawing clothes on models. We need to practice, but it is more important to be able to draw clothes.
Draw two models- these will be yours to use in class.
Nice and big
Slanting opposite directions
Flesh out

12. See your packet
CLOTHING

13. Warm-Up
Describe the type of clothing you are wearing today. What style of shirt, pants, shoes, prints? Describe the textures and colors as well.

14. Terms
Haute couture- the leading establishments or designers of fashion
Create exclusive items
Ready to Wear- mass produced, factory made, finished clothing
More commonly worn
Calvin Klien, Ralph Lauren

15. Sleeves Set-in Raglan Kimono
Use the text book to compare and contrast the three styles of sleeves. Talk about what they have in common (length) and what is different and unique about each one as compared to the others.

16. Collar styles
Button-down- has points in the collar that button to the shirt
Convertible- has a lapel, which is a pointed part of garment below the collar
Stock- resembles an ascot, which is an accessory added at the neck like a necktie
Jabot- used to be made of lace or a ruffle

17. Dresses Sheath- no waistline seam, inward shaping at waist
Shift- straight and loose fitting, no inward shape
A-line- narrow at shoulders, wider at hem
Tent- large and billowy, hang loose from shoulders

18. Dresses (cont) Empire- high waistline
Lowered waistline- long torso, waist at hips
Princess- seamlines going up and down entire length, no horizontal seam
Blouson- blousy fullness, belted, fitted skirt

19. Dresses (cont.)
Shirtwaist- long, semi-fitted, tailored shirt, belt or sash at waist
Coatdress- heavy, closes at front like a coat
Asymmetrical- surplice closing, diagonal overlap to one side
Jumper (over clothing) or sundress (hot weather)- brief bodice, shoulder straps and low neckline

20. Neckline styles Décolleté- used with bare shoulders
Jewel (round)- encircles base of neck
Boat- straight across shoulder to shoulder, high in front
Scoop- lowered and round, high in back
Horseshoe- high on neck in back, U-shaped and low in front
Cowl- draped with flowing folds

21. Skirt styles Straight- no added fullness, slim silhouette
A-line- extra width at hem on each side
Flared- fullness at hem all the way around, soft ripples
Circular- very full at hem, skirt forms a half circle when held out on sides

22. Pleating vs. gathering Pleats- structured folds in the cloth
Gathered- pulled together at waist without folds

23. Skirt styles (cont)
Gored- vertical seams, panels are created, notice resemblance to the princess dress
Umbrella- many narrow gores
Wrap- overlap at side back or side front
Waist band- band of fabric that that goes around waist and fastens with button or hook and eye

24. Coat, jacket or cape?
Coat- warm and weatherproof, worn over regular clothing
Jacket- same as a coat, except it is short
Capes- hang from neck and shoulders, no arm holes, restricts movement

25. Features Wrap- no buttons, just a tie Coachman- notice princess seams
Box- look at the shape
Bolero- cut above the waist
Single breasted- one row of buttons
Double breasted- two rows of buttons

26. Pants Inseam- important when measuring and hemming
Tapered- narrower at hem than knee
Straight- some width at knee
Flared- wider at hem than at knee
Hip-hugger- lower than regular waistline
Gauchos- wide tubes

27. Cap and French sleeves They are very short
Nearly a sleeveless shirt, but with a short kimono-like sleeve going out from shoulder.

28. Sleeve applications Cuff- band at the bottom of the sleeve
Vent- opening from end of cuff into the sleeve
Placket- decorative strip of fabric over the vent

29. Clothing applications
Pocket- build in envelopes
Tab- goes on the edge of pockets
Flap- decorative pieces that fall over openings
Yokes- band or shaped piece that gives support and shape to rest of garment below.

30. Blouses/Shirts
tank mandarin fitted western surplice princess with peplum
wrap jewel-shell camisole scoop shell v-shell camp shirt
peasant blouse sport shirt bib front square yoke-front

31. Blouses/Shirts continued
bowed Victorian ruffle neck prairie middy/sailor
painter’s smock
yoke variation yoke variation yoke variation
smock Elizabethan tunic
yoke variation yoke variation yoke variation
Kimono variation asymmetrical caplet pleat smock variation

32. Blouse/Shirt Back Variations
inverted pleated gathered yoke double knife pleat

33. Shirt Styles continued
dress
Polo
T-shirt
Hawaiian

34. Neckline and Collar Styles
jewel/round crew keyhole
asymmetricalone-shoulder
strapless
bateau/boat/Sabrina wide scoop
low wide scoop U scoop
wide draped
square v-neck
décolletté halter variation
bib
slit henley
cardigan
sweetheart split variation

35. Neckline and Collar Styles cont.
mandarin/Nehru
ruff
banded ruff
ruffles
pointed collar with stand
ascot jabot
bow tie bowed shawl notched
portrait turtle neck wide cowl bateau roll shawl
cowl peter pan platter Oliver/puritan Italian roll

36. Neckline and Collar Styles cont.
reverse chelsea
button down convertible notched
middy sailor tuxedo
pointed flat wing band
tuxedo

37. Sleeve Styles
¾ flounce ¾ length halter sleeveless cap/French pinafore ruffle
set-in
long set-in long fitted short set-in petal gathered butterfly
cap
tailored shirt trumpet/ puffed kimono roll-up bell
pagoda
bishop puffed cape melon/ lantern raglan
balloon

38. Sleeve Styles continued
leg-of-mutton Juliette drop-shoulder dolman button notched French cuff
cuff
batwing dolman ruffle cuff button-tab & fitted cuff
epaulet cowl
gauntlet shoulder gathered plain barrel ruffled band
flange binding band angel
peasant

39. Skirt Styles mini straight pegged A-line 6- gore sheath A-line
straight trouser
6-gore gore gore circular
trumpet flare flare
dirndl
Bouffant/ prairie tiered
gathered

40. Skirt Styles continued
knife pleat/soft A-line stitched-down stitched-down umbrella pleat
front pleat knife pleat
soft unpressed unpressed
pleat center pleat
4-gore inverted box pleat box cluster pleat kilt hip-stitched pleat
6-gore inverted box pleat sarong variation center front slit side slit side wrap

41. Skirt Styles continued
no waistband yoke “V” yoke partial yoke peplum draped-hip

42. Pants Style bikini hot boy shorts pleat safari Jamaica culottes
Bermuda walking deck pant culottes petal knickers
shorts pushers
gaucho gaucho with cropped no hip hugger elasticized
cuff waistband

43. Pants Style continued
jogging drawstring capri pegged stirrup straight leg
jeans gathered yoke pleat bell flared
front bottom
palazzo harem tapered leggings

44. Pants Style continued
overalls jumpsuit flared jumpsuit

45. Skirt and Pant Lengths Bikini Short shorts Mini Short Shorts
Above knees
Bermuda
shorts
Knee Length
Pedal
pushers
Below knees
Calf
Gaucho
pants
Tea Length
Maxi
Cropped
pants
Ankle
Evening
Classic
Length
Floor

46. Dress Styles sheath Shift knit A-line flare or chemise sweater
high- waist
princess line
dropped waist
tent shoulder yoke smock caftan surplice coat dress fitted basic sheath
pointed blouse dress bouffant variation
V-waist shirtwaist princess
blouson
blouse dress

47. Dress Styles continued
midriff yoke
empire float drop-waist flare
drop-waist pleat hip-line yoke pinafore
tabard tunic jumper strapless slip dress
banded jumper
shoulder drape asymmetrical
drop-waist jumper asymmetrical shirtwaist
shirtwaist
peasant pioneer/prairie

48. Jacket and Coat Styles cardigan tuxedo swagger wrap cape A-line
classic straight chesterfield balmacaan duffle sport cape top princess
directairè trench coat polo coachman reefer variation

49. Jacket and Coat Styles cont.
bolero dressmaker box Channel aviation/bomber short blazer
high-hip fitted blazer cap sleeve cardigan loose unlined A-line wrap safari
straight blazer semi-fitted blazer fitted blazer variation princess-line blazer hacking

50. Jackets and Coat Styles cont.
double breasted pea jacket shawl stole poncho caplet vest
bomber elastic waist jacket drawstring quilted parka parka windbreaker

51. Sweaters variation patchwork summer pullover cable crew V-neck bateau
round neck turtle neck cowl neck dolman
cardigan shawl sweater set double breasted

52. Vests
bolero weskit short classic fitted unfitted weskit high hip shawl collar square high hip
unfitted
square low hip/crotch length tabard jerkin fitted waist high hip pullover low hip pullover
cardigan high-hip low-hip gathered waist belted wrap button front
drop-shoulder drop-shoulder variation

53. Vests continued
fashion vest Oriental drop-shoulder

54. Design Details
waist border print hip border print hip border print hem border print
small vertical stripe small horizontal stripe narrow vertical stripe narrow horizontal stripe
medium horizontal stripe medium vertical stripe wide vertical stripe wide horizontal stripe

55. Design Details small plaid medium plaid large plaid
small print medium print large print
A-line piping yoke piping jacket trim

56. Assignment Find 3 models in a magazine Cut out and mount
Identify ALL of the clothing pieces (specific type of shirt and skirt, dress, shoes) and write them next to your example