2. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 29 UV Gels

3. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Why Study UV Gels? Clients may be interested in having UV gel services offered to them. An understanding of how UV gel nails are made, applied, and cured will allow you to create a safe and efficient salon services. An understanding of the chemistry of UV gel products will allow you to choose the best system and products to use in your salon. Clients often become loyal and steadfast when they receive excellent UV gel nail services, mainentance, and removal.

4. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Gels A type of nail enhancement product that hardens when exposed to a UV gel light; an increasingly popular method for nail enhancement services

5. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Gel Characteristics Nail enhancements based on UV curing are not traditionally thought of as being methacrylates; however, they are very similar. Like wrap resins, adhesives, and monomer and polymer nail enhancements, UV gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the monomer and polymer chemical family. Their ingredients are part of a subcategory of this family called acrylates. Wrap resins are called cyanoacrylates, and monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements are called methacrylates.

6. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Although most UV gels are made from acrylates, new UV gel technologies have been developed recently that use methacrylates. Like wraps and monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements, UV gels can also contain monomers, but they rely mostly on a related form called an oligomer. The root mono means “one,” and “poly” means “many.” “Oligo’’ means “few.” An oligomer is a short chain of monomers that is not long enough to be considered a polymer and is often referred to as a "prepolymer.” Nail enhancement monomers are liquids, while polymers are solids. Oligomers are in between. Oligomers are often thick, gel-like, and sticky. UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

7. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Traditionally, UV gels rely on special types of acrylates called urethane acrylates, while newer UV gel systems may use urethane methacrylates by themselves or in combination with urethane acrylates. Urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate are the main ingredients used to create UV gel nail enhancements. The word urethane refers to the type of starting material that is used to create the most common UV gel resins. The chemical family of urethanes is known for high abrasion resistance and durability. UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

8. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV gel resins react when exposed to the UV light that is recommended for the gel. A chemical called a photoinitiator creates the polymerization reaction to begin the process. It takes the combination of the resin, the photoinitiator, and the proper curing lamp to cause the gel to cure. UV gel systems employ a single-component resin compound that is cured to a solid material when exposed to a UV light source. UV gels typically do not use a powder that is incorporated into the gel resin. There are a few UV gels on the market that do incorporate a powder that is sprinkled into the gel, but for the rest of this chapter, gels will be referred to as the more common single component. UV gels also have the advantage of having very little or no odor. UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

9. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV gels are easy to apply, file, and maintain. Although they typically are not as hard as monomer and polymer nail enhancements, UV gels can create beautiful, long-lasting nail enhancements. The UV gel application process differs from other types of nail enhancements. After the nail plate is properly prepared, each layer of product applied to the natural nail, nail tip, or form requires exposure to UV light to cure, or harden. The UV light required for curing comes from a special lamp designed to emit the proper type of UV light. UV Gel Characteristics (continued)

10. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. The different UV gels can be described as thin, medium, or thick viscosity gels; and building or sculpting gels. Viscosity is the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid and effects how the fluid flows.

11. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Gel Categories Clear resin for one-color method-a method where a single color UV gel is applied this is for the client that wants to wear colored polish or UV gel polish over the enhancement. Pink and white resin for two-color method-allowing for a French or American manicure finish in which lacquer is not required. There are many processes for applying this method follow manufacturer’s directions on the product.

12. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Types of UV Gels UV bonding gels: used to increase adhesion hence decrease the likely-hood of lifting. UV building gels: use thick viscosity resin allows you to build an arch and curve in the fingernail, can be self-leveling. If done correctly this combination can reduce filing and shape later in service. Self-leveling UV gels: provide smoother surface than self- building gels thinner than building gels. Used to enhance thickness. Pigmented gels: are both building and self leveling and include color

13. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV gel polishes: cure in UV light unit UV gloss gels: sealing, finishing, or shine gels –Traditional (with a sticky inhibition layer) –Tack-free (no inhibition layer) –Opacity: amount of colored pigment concentration in a gelOpacity Types of UV Gels (continued)

14. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Gel Supplies UV gel light unit-Choose a UV gel light unit that is designed to produce the correct amount of UV light needed to properly cure UV gel nail enhancement products you use. Synthetic brushes-Brushes should have small, flat, or oval bristles to hold and spread the UV gel. UV gel primer or bonding gel-Primers and bonding gels are designed specifically to improve adhesion of UV gels to the natural nail plate. Use UV gel primers as instructed by the manufacturer of the product that you are using.

15. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Nail tips-Use nail tips recommended for the UV gel nail enhancement systems. Nail adhesive-There are many types of nail adhesives for securing preformed nail tips to natural nails. Select a type and size best suited for your work. Nail cleanser or primer-Removes surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate, both of which can block adhesion and help prevent lifting of the nail enhancements. UV Gel Supplies

16. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Abrasive files and buffers: Select a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit) for natural nail preparation. Choose a medium/fine abrasive (240 grit) for smoothing, and a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) for finishing. Cleansing solution: Cleansing solutions usually contain isopropanol. They may contain other solvents, as well. The cleansing solution you choose should be the one recommended by the manufacturer. Lint-free cleansing wipes. UV Gel Supplies (continued)

17. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Choosing the Proper UV Gel There are many gels to choose from to perform your service. Here are a few guidelines that will assist you in refining your choices: If the client has flat fingernails, more building is needed to create an arch and a curve. This building will be easiest when done with a thicker UV building gel. If the client has fingernails that have an arch and a curve, then a self-leveling gel may be the best option. Choose either a medium or thick viscosity gel. If the client returns to the salon often with her enhancements broken, then a gel that uses fiberglass may be best suited for the next service.

18. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Light Units and Lamps A UV lamp is a special bulb that emits UV light to cure UV gel nail enhancements. There are a number of different lamps that are used to cure gels: 4-watt, 6-watt, 7-watt, 8-watt, and 9-watt. A UV light unit is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV lamps to cure UV gel nail enhancements. Light units may look similar at first, but there are differences that affect the curing power of the unit. The differences include the number of lamps in the unit, the distance the lamps are from the bottom of the unit, and the size of the unit.

19. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Gel Polishes Advantages to UV gel polish: Most highly pigmented – solvent-based lacquer, most popular Cure rather than dry so they do not imprint or smudge while lacquer is drying if client bumps the nail. Do not thicken over time Must be removed by filing or soaking off in acetone

20. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Gel Maintenance Use 180 grit abrasive file. before filling the nail, clean nail with recommended cleanser or 99 percent isopropanol. Remove oils for better adhesion. Fill in regrowth with product. File with a lighter touch than on ML/PP.

21. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. UV Gel Removal Hard (traditional) UV gels: cannot be removed with acetone; must be filed off Soft UV gels: removed by soaking in acetone

22. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review 1.Describe the chemistry and main ingredients of UV gels. Answer: The chemistry of UV gel nail enhancements is similar to that of wrap resins, adhesives, and monomer and polymer nail enhancements. UV gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the monomer and polymer chemical family. Their ingredients are part of a subcategory of this family called acrylates. The main ingredients of UV gels are urethane acrylate and urethane methacrylate. 2.When would you use a one-color method of applying UV gels? When would you use a two-color method for applying UV gels? Answer: The one-color method is used when UV gel is applied over the entire surface of the nail. The two-color method uses two different colors of gel that are applied to the surface of the nail in different places, as in a French manicure.

23. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 3.What are the types of UV gels used in current systems? Answer: The types of UV gels used in current systems are: UV bonding gels, UV building gels, self-leveling gels, white UV gels (pigmented gels), UV gel polishes, and UV gloss gels. 4.What supplies are needed for UV gel application? Answer: The supplies needed for a UV gel application are: UV gel light unit; synthetic brushes with small, flat, or oval bristles to hold and spread the UV gel; UV gel primer or bonding gel; UV gels, including those pigmented for a one-color or two-color service; nail tips; nail adhesive; nail cleanser or primer; abrasive files and buffers; a cleansing solution; and lint-free cleansing wipes.

24. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 5. When should you use UV gels? Answer: UV gels can be used anytime you or your client want to create very hard, durable, and tough nail enhancements. UV gels are a good alternative to monomer and polymer nail enhancements, especially if a system you’ve been using isn’t performing as well as it may have in the past. Or you may choose to use a UV gel enhancement over another type of nail enhancement for added gloss and durability. In addition, pigmented gels, such as UV gel polishes, may also be used over monomer and polymer systems. Summary and Review (continued)

25. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 6. When should you use a building gel, a self-leveling gel, or a UV gel that uses fiberglass? Answer: A building gel is needed for a client who has flat nails and for whom you want to create an arch and a curve. A self-leveling gel is a good option for a client who already has fingernails that have an arch and a curve. Also, if a client often returns to the salon with broken enhancements, a gel that uses fiberglass may be best suited for her.

26. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 7. What is the difference between UV light units and UV lamps? Answer: A UV light unit is a specialized electronic device that powers and controls UV lamps to cure UV gel nail enhancements. A UV lamp is a special bulb that emits UV light to cure UV gel nail enhancements.

27. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Congratulations! You have completed one unit of study toward course completion.