1. Makeup Design

2. History of Makeup Design  Theatrical makeup or “grease paint”  Powdered pigments mixed into a base of wax or grease  Used to create dramatic effects of personal enhancement and transformation  Masks vs. makeup  Both used to create visual characters  Ancient Greek theatre was masked  Later European theatre used stage makeup to create characters, heighten facial features, and compensate for the effects of stage lighting  Italian Commedia del’Arte continued to use masks

3. History of makeup design  Pre-Renaissance  Faces painted a different color (ex. An actor playing God painted his/her face white or gold, actors playing angels painted their faces red)  Renaissance  More creative and resourceful with makeup design  Lamb’s wool used for beards  Advances in stage lighting technology impacted theatrical makeup  1873: Ludwig Leichner, an opera singer, created a non-toxic greasepaint  20 th century  Professional theatrical makeup artist became an important and modern addition to theatre (before actors were expected to do their own makeup)

4. What Makeup Does  Information about the play  Time period/era  Mood and style  Information about the character:  Age  Social status  Conformity to society  Culture  Personality  Current state of the character’s mind  Character development  Provide actors with an additional tool while playing their character  Restores color from complexion and defines facial features  Create visual stereotypes and clichés (easily understood)

5. Preparing for a Performance  Act of putting on makeup can help the actor prepare and get into character  Allows the performer to move psychologically into the role of the character

6. Theatrical Makeup  Heavier  More dense  Strongly colored/highly pigmented  Excessive and exaggerated  In normal lighting  On stage, under the lights, makeup appears natural to a theatrical audience

7. Stage Light’s effect on makeup  White makeup looks blue  Blue makeup looks black  Yellow makeup looks washed-out white  Bright red/fire engine red is not as flattering on stage  Different lighting styles and colors of lighting can affect makeup in a variety of ways

8. The Makeup Designer  Also “makeup artist”  Skill and experience with use of cosmetics  Employed in a variety of roles  Specialize in: theatrical makeup, cinema makeup, fashion photography, runway makeup, or special effects  Skills in sculpture and other plastic arts  Innovative and creative

9. Design Process  Work alongside the director and other designers while designing the makeup styles  Makeup corresponds with the costumes for the character  Discuss what the performer will be doing on stage in the costume

10. Face Templates  Present rough sketches to the director  Final designs may be done on performer and photographs presented to the director  Can use colored pencils or makeup directly on template

11. Makeup Artist's Workplace  Dressing rooms  Film set  Photographer’s studio

12. Makeup Kit  Makeup base colors  Rouges  Colored liners for shadowing and highlighting effects  Eye makeup  False eyelashes  Powder  Powder puffs

13. Highlight and Shadow  Both can change the apparent shape of the actor’s face  Highlighting:  Base makeup at least two shades lighter  Applied to the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, below the eyes, and above the ground  Shadow:  At least two shades darker than base makeup  Depth and definition  Depth: eye sockets, thin side of nose, shallow cheeks  Minimize heaviness under chin

14. Skin  Four basic tones: brown, fair, pink, and olive  Thin layer of base makeup applied to neck, face, and ears  Heavy application can make the performer look old

15. Rouge  Blush  Enhances fair complexions  Peach  Pink  Enhances darker complexions  Coral  Dry rouge is applied after powder  Moist rouge is applied before the powder

16. Eye Makeup  The actor’s eyes and eyebrows communicate a great deal with the audience  Eye shadow  Brings attention to the eyes  Can help to create a character  Eye liner  Accents and frames the eyes  Eyelashes  Mascara/false lashes brings attention to the eyes

17. Powder  Reduces shine  Helps to preserve the makeup  Prevents makeup from running/sweating off  Translucent powders are used on fairer complexions  Tinted powders compatible with the base color are used on darker complexions

18. Lips  The lips are another great source of communication for the actor  Fairer complexions use pink and coral shades of lipstick  Darker complexions use coral and orange shades of lipstick  Red lipstick is usually reserved for specific types of characters  Men usually use more neutral/natural-colored lipstick shades

19. Prosthetics and Facial Hair  Applied to a bare, clean face  Spirit gum  Thin layer is painted on to the face where prosthetic/facial hair will be placed  Spirit gum dries until it is tacky and then the prosthetic/facial hair is placed onto the face  Liquid latex  Used to attach latex to latex  Some people are allergic  Castor sealer  Seals and protects latex  Used before any cream or oil-based makeups are put onto the skin

20. Beauty and the Beast