1. Physical and Chemical Oceanography Part 1: Chemistry

2. Salinity Amount of salt in ocean water Amount of salt in ocean water 35 parts per thousand (3.5%) 35 parts per thousand (3.5%) Comes from vents on ocean floor and materials dissolved from the land Comes from vents on ocean floor and materials dissolved from the land

3. Components of Sea Water Chloride55.04 Sodium30.61 Sulfate7.68 Magnesium3.69 Calcium1.16 Potassium1.10 Total99.28

4. Factors affecting Salinity High runoff lowers salinity High runoff lowers salinity Melting ice lowers salinity Melting ice lowers salinity High Evaporation increases salinity High Evaporation increases salinity Direct rainfall into the ocean lowers salinity Direct rainfall into the ocean lowers salinity

5. Red is highest salinity; Blue is lowest salinity

6. Dissolved Gases Oxygen and carbon dioxide are most important gases Oxygen and carbon dioxide are most important gases Colder temperatures increase the amount of dissolved gases Colder temperatures increase the amount of dissolved gases

7. Pressure, Light, and Temperature Pressure increases with depth Pressure increases with depth Light decreases with depth Light decreases with depth –No light below 200 m Temperature decreases with depth Temperature decreases with depth

8. Density Determined by temperature and salinity Determined by temperature and salinity Warm water is less dense Warm water is less dense Salty water is more dense Salty water is more dense

9. Physical and Chemical Oceanography Part 2: Waves

10. Define wave: Wave – a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. Wave – a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. – in the ocean, waves move through seawater.

11. Parts of a wave Crest Trough Wavelength Wave height

12. Parts of a wave: Crest – the highest part of a wave. Crest – the highest part of a wave. Trough – the lowest part of a wave. Trough – the lowest part of a wave. Wavelength – the distance between two adjacent crests. Wavelength – the distance between two adjacent crests. Wave height – the vertical distance between the lowest part and the highest part. Wave height – the vertical distance between the lowest part and the highest part.

13. More wave words  Frequency – the number of complete waves (or oscillations) that occur over a given period of time. Usually measured in cycles per second.  Amplitude – half the wave height

14. Most waves are caused by wind Friction from the wind moving over the water causes the water to move along with the wind. Friction from the wind moving over the water causes the water to move along with the wind. If the wind speed is high enough, the water begins to pile up and a wave is formed. If the wind speed is high enough, the water begins to pile up and a wave is formed.

15. How water moves in a Deep water wave: Particles of water move around in circles. The farther below the surface, the smaller the circle. At a depth about equal to half the wavelength, the motion stops.

16. How wave moves in shallow water: Wavelength decrease and wave height increases as waves approach the shore. Wavelength decrease and wave height increases as waves approach the shore. Constant Wavelength Waves drag against the bottom and wave length decreases

17. At the beach, part 2 As the wave slows, its crest and trough come closer together. The top of the wave is not slowed by friction and moves faster than the bottom. As the wave slows, its crest and trough come closer together. The top of the wave is not slowed by friction and moves faster than the bottom. The top of the wave outruns the bottom and falls over. This collapsing wave is called a breaker.

18. Factors that Affect wave height Strength of wind Strength of wind Duration of wind Duration of wind Distance over which wind blows Distance over which wind blows –Fetch

19. Physical and Chemical Oceanography Part 3: Currents

20. Surface Currents Caused by prevailing wind patterns Caused by prevailing wind patterns Direction caused by wind belts and Coriolis Effect Direction caused by wind belts and Coriolis Effect Help to distribute heat around the earth Help to distribute heat around the earth

22. Warm Ocean Currents Wide shallow and along the Eastern Edge of continents Wide shallow and along the Eastern Edge of continents Warms N. Europe Warms N. Europe

23. Cold Ocean Currents Deep narrow and along the western edges of continents Deep narrow and along the western edges of continents Moderate the climate of areas they pass by Moderate the climate of areas they pass by

24. Deep Ocean Current Caused by changes in salinity and temperature Caused by changes in salinity and temperature Returns cold water from poles to equator Returns cold water from poles to equator

26. Upwelling Rising of deep water to the surface Rising of deep water to the surface Brings oxygen and nutrient rich water to the surface Brings oxygen and nutrient rich water to the surface

28. Physical and Chemical Oceanography Part 4: Tides

29. Tides Change in sea level due to gravitational pull of the moon and sun Change in sea level due to gravitational pull of the moon and sun

30. Direct tide vs. Indirect tide Direct tide Direct tide –highest high or lowest low tide for the day –Side facing the moon Indirect tide Indirect tide –lowest high and highest low tide for the day –Side facing away from the moon

31. Diurnal tide One high and one low tide each day One high and one low tide each day

32. Semidiurnal Tides Two high and two low tides of equal height each day Two high and two low tides of equal height each day

33. Mixed Semi-diurnal tide Mixed Semi-diurnal tide Two high and two low tides of different heights each day Two high and two low tides of different heights each day

35. Spring Tide Occur at new and full moon phases Occur at new and full moon phases Sun and moon pull together Sun and moon pull together Higher high tides, lower low tides Higher high tides, lower low tides Greatest tidal range Greatest tidal range

37. Neap tide Occur at waxing and waning quarter Occur at waxing and waning quarter Sun and moon pull in opposite directions Sun and moon pull in opposite directions Lower high tides Lower high tides Higher low tides Higher low tides Smaller tidal range Smaller tidal range