1. HAIRSTYLING
THE CLIENT WILL OFTEN JUDGE YOUR WORK BY THE FINISHED STYLE
CLIENT CONSULTATION 1ST STEP
TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION ALL YOU LEARNED IN CHAPTER 14: FACE SHAPE, HAIR TYPE AND LIFESTYLE

2. FINGERWAVING ALL THE RAGE IN 20’S
FINGERWAVING- ART OF SHAPING HAIR USING FINGERS, COMBS, IN TO AN “S” PATTERN

3. FINGER-WAVING LOTION
TYPE OF HAIR GEL OR LOTION THAT MAKES HAIR PLIABLE TO KEEP IT IN PLACE
MADE FROM KARAYA GUM
DILUTE FOR FINE HAIR
GOOD LOTION DOES NOT FLAKE WHEN DRY
APPLY: HEAVY SIDE FIRST

4. WAVES ARE CREATED: HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL AND DIAGONAL
HORIZONTAL-sideways and parallel
VERTICAL- up and down the head
DIAGONAL- slight angle

5. Pin Curls
Pin curls are basis for patterns, lines, waves: wide range of hairstyles
Work best when hair is layered
Smooth tightly wound
ribboning
Alternative to wrapping

6. Parts of a Pin Curl
Base – stationary foundation of the curl; area closest to scalp
stem-sec. between base and first arc; gives curl direction and movement
Circle-forms the complete circle; determines width and strength/wave

7. Mobility of a Pin Curl Stem determines mobility or movement
Classified as no stem, half stem, full stem

8. No Stem Pin Curl Placed directly on its base:minimum mobility
Produces tight firm,
long lasting curl

9. Half Stem Pin Curl The circle is placed half on and half off its base
Permits movement; gives good control to hair
This square base is half stem curl
circle
½ base
Stem

10. Full Stem Curl Allows for greatest mobility
Curl placed completely off base
Full freedom or mobility; used to
give hair direction
Curl sits completely
Off its base

11. ?????????????????????????????
The first step in the hairstyling process should be?
What is shaping the hair into S formations used for?
How would you create a horizontal finger wave?

12. Answers Client consultation Finger Waving
Parallel ridges around the head
Describe the type of pin curl that give firm long lasting curls
No stem pin curl

13. Shaping for Pin Curl Bases
SHAPING-section of
hair molded in a circ.
Movement in preparation
for the formation of Pin
Curls
Shaping are open or
closed
Begin pin curls at the
open end (convex side

14. Open Center Curls

15. Open Center Pincurls
open center curls produce smooth even waves

16. Closed Center Pincurls
Get small towards ends
Closed center good for fine hair
If fluffy comb out is desired
Width of the curl determines size of the wave

17. Curl and Stem Direction
Curls
FORWARD Curls turned toward face
Reverse –away from face
Stems
Downward stem
Stems can go up or down
Clockwise with hand of clock
Counter clockwise

18. Pin Curl Bases and Foundations
Square Base- curly styles: no vol.
Rectangle- upsweep effect
usually on side area
Arc-half moon or C shape:nape area
Triangle –front facial-
prevents splits or breaks

19. Pin Curl Technique
Ribboning- forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb
Creates tension

20. Carved or Sculptured Curls
Pin Curls sliced from a shaping
Formed without lifting the hair
Using tail comb gingerly pick up piece of hair, ribbon it, and form a curl

21. Designing with Pin Curls
Skip waves – alternating ridges and curls
Ridge Curls- curls placed behind a ridge

22. Cascade or Stand-Up Pin Curls
Can use any base
Good for height or volume
The size of curl determines height
Stand Up Pin Curls

23. Double Prong Only
yes No

24. Stem Mobility
Full stem curl
No stem curl
Half stem curl

25. Roller Curls Used to create the same effect as stand-up pin curls
However, have the some advantages over pin curls:
Faster way to set the hair, holds 2-4 stand-up curls in 1 roller
Hair is wrapped with tension
Gives a stronger and longer lasting set
Rollers come in variety of shapes & sizes
Gives more creative possibilities

26. Parts of a Roller Curl The Base The Stem The Curl
The part on which roller is placed
The Stem
Hair between the scalp and 1st turn of the roller
Gives the hair direction and mobility
The Curl
Also known as the circle
The hair that is wrapped around the roller
Determines the size of the wave or curl

27. Choosing Your Roller Size
The relationship b/t the length of hair and the size of the roller will determine whether the result will be
A C-shape
A Wave
A Curl
Roller Size + Length of Hair = Curl Result

28. One complete turn around the roller
C-Shaped Curl
One complete turn around the roller

29. 1 and ½ turns creates a wave

30. Two and a half turns will create curls
Full Curl
Two and a half turns will create curls

31. Roller Placement On Base Also known as full base
Gives full volume when sitting on base
Achieved by:
Overdirecting the hair ( higher than 90 degrees) in front of the base
Roll the hair/roller down to base
Roller should fit on the base

32. On-Base Roller: Full Volume

33. Roller Placement Half Base For medium volume
Roller sits halfway on its base and halfway behind the base
Achieved by:
Holding the hand straight up (90 degrees)
Roll the hair straight down

34. Roller Placement The least volume Roller sits completely off base
Achieved by:
Holding the strand 45 degrees down from the base
Roll the hair down in same direction

35. Off-Base Roller

36. Roller Direction Start with the end in mind!
Downward directional wrapping gives movement and style in all directions and still maintains volume
To reduce volume:
Bring movement closer to the head
Use indentation curl placement
The point where curls of opposite direction meet, forming a recessed area
Seen in flip styles and bangs (fringes)

37. Hot Rollers Used ONLY on DRY hair Heated electrically or by steam
Great time saver in the salon
Follow same setting patterns
Allow rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes!
Curl is weaker than wet set, but stronger than a curling iron

38. Velcro Rollers
Are not allowed by the state board in some states because they are difficult to clean
Used for clients that want more body than a round brush but less volume than a hot roller or wet set
Used ONLY on DRY hair
Using on wet hair will snag and pull the hair
Need to stay on the hair for only 5 to 10 minutes
Follow same setting patterns but no clips are needed
Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then place client under hooded dryer
This gives softer set to the hair

39. Hot Rollers

40. Velcro Rollers

41. Indentation

42. Comb-Out Techniques Became popular in the 50’s and 60’s Two Types
Women liked that their sets would hold for a week
Two Types
Backcombing –or- teasing, ratting, matting, and French lacing
Combing small sections of hair from the ends to the scalp
Shorter hair will mat at the scalp forming a cushion or base
Backbrushing –or- ruffing
Used to build a soft cushion or to mesh 2 or more curl patterns together
Gives a more uniform and smoother look