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- Chemland Powders -
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1. Introduction of Powder Coating Features of Powder : As most inorganic pigments have hydrophilic properties, when they are applied to makeup products, it happens that makeup is erased easily depending on sweat, sebum, foreign environment conditions. Also, as inorganic pigments have the same property as abrasives, they provide skin with coarse touch To improve this disadvantage, diverse coating agents and coating methods have been introduced.
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2. Chemland’s powder products
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Coating methods A. Dry coating B. Wet coating(Water/Solvent coating) C. CVD coating(Jet mill processing) D. Composite powder
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POWDER COATING PROCESS Disperse powder in Hensel Reactor Dilute Coating agent Coating Process Remove Solvent Crushing & Packing A. Dry Coating Process
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Disperse Powder in Water or Solvent Coating in water or solvent Ageing and filtering(Remove Solvent) Drying, Crushing and Packing B. Wet Coating Process POWDER COATING PROCESS
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Add powder into CVD machine Vaporizing deposition Packing CVD:(Chemical Vapor Deposion) Dilute coating agent in solvent ADD POWDER COATING PROCESS C-1. Vapor Coating Process
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Before Jet Mill Jet Mill After Jet Mill Before Jet Mill After Jet Mill Benefits:Better Aspect ratio/Better adhesiveness/Better color expression C-2. Jet mill Process Thinner & smoother
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Coating mechanism
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Methicone coat Dimethicone coat
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Triethoxy caprylyl Silane coat
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Ex) Metal Soap coated on Inorganic Powder Lecithin coated on Inorganic Powder etc,. 1. Organic Coating by Wet Processing 2. Organic Coating with Silicone Ex) Methicone coated on Inorganic Powder Dimethicone coated on Inorganic Powder Di-Methicone copolyol coated on Powder Powder Coating with Metallic ion and Silicone
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Composite Powder 2. Chemland’s powder products
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FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS COATED ON ELASTOMER BEADS NAME RAW MATERIALS PRIMARY BENEFITUSAGE VELVE-TC POWDER VELVE-T POWDER VELVE-Z POWDER SILICONE BEAD coated by TALCTiO2ZnO * VERY SILKY FEELING BY SILICONE BEAD * PROTECTION AGAINST UV-A&B RADIATION * THIN AND TRANSPARENT * CUSHIONY EFFECT IN FOUMULATION TWO-WAY FOUNDATION EYE SHADOW PRESSED/LOOSE POWDER SEM Photograph of VELVE TCSEM Photograph of VELVE-ZSEM Photograph of VELVE-T
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1. VELVE-TC Powder ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 35.0 ~ 45.0 Talc55.0 ~ 65.0 Dimethiconol0.35~ 0.45 % ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Patented Excellent skin feeling and spreadability by silicone bead Excellent sebum absorption Provides novel delivery for other formulation components Provides wet smoothness a powdery-light skin feel Capable of absorbing polar and nonpolar oils Gives cushiony feeling to the final formulation
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1. VELVE-TC Powder ⑷ SEM Image & EDS analysis for the Twin cake containing VELVE-TC Powder * EDS : Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectrometer SpectrumOMgAlSiKTiFeTotal 139.348.159.9029.944.406.062.20100.00 256.6910.860.4115.3415.780.92100.00 Max.56.6910.869.9029.944.4015.782.20 Min.39.348.150.4115.340.006.060.92
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2. VELVE-T Powder ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 55.0 ~ 65.0 Titanium Dioxide35.0 ~ 45.0 Dimethiconol0.35~ 0.45 % ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Patented Excellent skin feeling and spreading for silicone bead Excellent sebum absorption Protection against harmful UVB radiation by coated micro TiO 2 Provides novel delivery for other formulation components Provides wet smoothness a powdery-light skin feel Capable of absorbing polar and nonpolar oils Gives cushiony feeling to the final formulation
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3. VELVE-Z Powder ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone cross polymer 55.0 ~ 65.0 Zinc Oxide35.0 ~ 45.0 Dimethiconol0.35~ 0.45 % ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Patented Excellent skin feeling and spreading for silicone bead Excellent sebum absorption Protection against harmful effect of UVA radiation Provides novel delivery for other formulation components Provides wet smoothness a powdery-light skin feel Capable of absorbing polar and nonpolar oils Gives cushiony feeling to the final formulation
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Inorganic Material Coated Powder 2. Chemland’s powder products Fit Series
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COMPOSITE POWDER WITH INORGANIC COATING AGENT NAME RAW MATERIALS PRIMARY BENEFITUSAGE FIT ALS POWDER FIT MT5S10 POWDER FIT TT30 POWDERTALCMICASERICITEALUMINA * VERY NATURAL FEELING AFTER MAKE UP * UV-BLOCK * MINIMIZED REFLACTION * THIN AND TRANSPARENT TWO-WAY FOUNDATION EYE SHADOW PRESSED/LOOSE POWDER SEM Photograph of Fit MT5S10 SEM Photograph of Fit TT30 Powder
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Inorganic Material coated on Inorganic powder 1. Fit TT30 POWDER ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Talc68.0 ~ 70.0 Titanium Dioxide29.0 ~ 31.0 Triethoxycaprylylsialne1.0 ~ 3.0 ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Nano TiO2 coated on Talc Excellent water repellency Good skin feeling Soft focusing effect UV Shielding Effect enable high SPF formulation Ideal for Luxurious & novel powdery products.
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(3) SPF value Inorganic Material coated on Inorganic powder Applied 0% of TT 30 SPF 10.58 Applied 15% of TT 30 SPF 18.79 Applied 30% of TT 30 SPF 27.34 Applied 45% of TT 30 SPF 40.09 SPF TEST in Two way cake 1. Fit TT 30 POWDER
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Inorganic Material coated on Inorganic powder 2. Fit MT5S10 Powder (Natural Look Powder) ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Mica79.0 ~ 85.0 Titanium Dioxide4.0 ~ 6.0 Silica9.0 ~ 11.0 Triethoxycaprylylsialne2.0 ~ 4.0 ⑵ Properties & Characteristics High water repellency Titanium dioxide and silica coated on Mica powder Ability to absorb sebum for silica Soft focusing effect Able to express natural looking make up
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Inorganic Material coated on Inorganic powder 2. Fit MT5S10 Powder (Natural Look Powder) ⑶ SEM Image Photograph of Scanning Eletronic Microscope (× 16,000) Photograph of Scanning Eletronic Microscope (× 35,000)
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Organic Material Coated Powder 2. Chemland’s powder products
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CVD(CHEMICAL VAPOR DEPOSITION) PROCESSED POWDER NAME RAW MATERIALS COATING AGENT PRIMARY BENEFITUSAGE TALC SJ J1 OTS CLT J OTS2 L-TALC OTS TALC MICA SERICITE POROUS SILICA TriethoxycaprylylsilaneIMPROVED DISPERSIBILITY FOUNDATION EYE SHADOW TWO-WAY FOUNDA TION ORGANIC MATERIAL COATED POWDER NAME RAW MATERIALS COATING AGENT PRIMARY BENEFITUSAGE CX SERIES - CX-SERICITE - CX-TALC TALC JA46-C30 PHYTO TALC-B WS PHYTO TALC MB5 MICA C ODSHS LAMELLA SERICITE PE-MICA PE-TALC TALC MICA SERICITE POROUS SILICA ORGANIC MATEIRALS (WAX & OIL) CREAMY FEELING EXCELLENT ADHENSION FOUNDATION TWO-WAY FOUNDA TION
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Organic Material coated on Inorganic powder 1. CX Talc (Sericite) Powder ⑴ Ingredients MaterialsContents (%) Talc (Sericite)97.5 ~ 99.5 Hydrogenated Lecithin0.5 ~ 1.5 Ceramide0.2 ~ 0.4 Tocopheryl Acetate0.1 ~ 0.3 ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Excellent Skin feeling and Spreadability Ceramide encapsulated by Hydrogenated Lecithin Encapsulation Material coated on Talc Powder Excellent skin affinity
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1. CX Talc (Sericite) Powder (3) Characteristics Phase stable organic materials coated on inorganic flaky powder Gives soft touching and excellent skin affinity. Ideal for Natrual concept Two way or pact products.
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Before organic complex coated on Inorgarnic powder After organic complex coated on Inorgarnic powder Comparing the SEM image of before- and after- coated powder
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Metal Soap Coated on Inorganic powder MaterialsContents (%) Talc(16~18 ㎛ ) 96.0 ~ 98.0 Magnesium Stearate2.5 ~ 3.5 1. TALC L MS Metal soap coated powder ⑴ Ingredients ⑵ Properties & Chracteristics Excellent water repellency Good adhesion and light skin feeling Applicable for Loose powder
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Metal Soap Coated on Inorganic powder Phyto Talc MB5 (INCI: Talc/Mangifera Indica seed butter) INCI Name : Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed butter, creamy solid Anti oxidant, skin tenderizer Protection to UV, anti aging of skin cell, skin recovering and elasting Emollient and moisurizing, skin recovering Mango butter has softner structure than cocoa butter Mango butter Applicaton and dosage : Mango butter Suncare cream & Lotion : 3~5% Body Butter, Lotion and Cream : 3~5% Hair care Products: 2~5% Soap Products : 3~6%
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Metal Soap Coated on Inorganic powder Phyto Talc MB5 (INCI: Talc/Mangifera Indica seed butter) A subject 1) B subjet 2) C subject 3) ( 단위 : g/h/m 2 )Initial (a)2HR(b) Moisturizing( %) 4) Initial(a)2HR(b) Moisturizing( %) Initial (a)2HR(b) Moisturizing( %) Before make up14.9315.44 -3.4 38.3239.56 -3.2 65.7277.30 -17.6 Standard sample15.5815.34 1.5 41.8536.25 13.4 67.2766.33 1.4 MB3 Powder pact18.5415.40 16.9 40.6422.24 45.3 60.9224.68 59.5 MB5 Powder pact21.2619.10 10.2 39.1223.26 40.5 60.9229.85 51.0 MB7 Powder pact17.1714.40 16.1 41.5221.36 48.6 62.0823.86 61.6 MB9 Powder pact24.5017.52 28.5 40.1519.98 50.2 66.7827.54 58.8 * Test equipment : MPA 580, * Maker : Courage + Khazaka (C+K) Electronic GmbH Cologne, Germany * Analysing Probe (Model) : Tewameter (TM 300) * Temperature : 24 ℃, Humidity : 31% * Subjects : 1) mid 20’s female 2) early 30’s female 3) late 30’s male (a) : Epidermal water loss from different concentrated Mango butter included makeup (g/h/m 2 ) (b) : (a) Epidermal water loss at 2HR later (g/h/m 2 ) 4) Moisturizing (%) = [(a) – (b)] / (a) X 100 * Test equipment : MPA 580, * Maker : Courage + Khazaka (C+K) Electronic GmbH Cologne, Germany * Analysing Probe (Model) : Tewameter (TM 300) * Temperature : 24 ℃, Humidity : 31% * Subjects : 1) mid 20’s female 2) early 30’s female 3) late 30’s male (a) : Epidermal water loss from different concentrated Mango butter included makeup (g/h/m 2 ) (b) : (a) Epidermal water loss at 2HR later (g/h/m 2 ) 4) Moisturizing (%) = [(a) – (b)] / (a) X 100 Clinical test of moisturizing : Mango butter coated Powder Pact
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Metal Soap Coated on Inorganic powder Phyto Talc MB5 (INCI: Talc/Mangifera Indica seed butter) * Properties & Chracteristics Skin moisturizing effect Natural concept
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OMC BMDBM coated powder 2. Chemland’s powder products Artisto Series Vasto Series
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⑴ OMC (INCI Name : Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) for UVB absorbtion Artisto, Vasto ⑵ BMDBM (INCI Name : Butyl MethoxyDiBenzoylMethane) UVA absorbtion patented
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Simple spraying OMC or BMDBM into formulation Exposed directly to the skin Simple spraying OMC or BMDBM into formulation Exposed directly to the skin Powder components (Talc, Sericite, Silica etc ) UV:Go through UV Protected Powder components (Talc, Sericite, Silica etc ) Normal OMC or BMDBM UV ray UV protected Artisto, and Vasto Not exposed to the skin, more skin friendly by lecithin with good feel Artisto, and Vasto Not exposed to the skin, more skin friendly by lecithin with good feel Even UV protectionUneven UV Protection OMC or BMDBM in Liposome UV ray The mechanism of Artisto and Vasto patented
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The structure of Artisto and Vasto Hydrogenated Lecithin (OMC & BMDBM) Hydrophillic part (The head of Lecithin) Hydrophillic part (The head of Lecithin) Lipophillic part (The tail of Lecithin) Lipophillic part (The tail of Lecithin) OMC or BMDBM in a liposome by Hydrogenated Lecithin Patent pending. 1. Talc Artisto: OMC coated powder : Global patent pending 2. Talc Vasto: BMDBM coated powder : Patent pending patented
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Talc Artisto: UV protection performance comparing test Sample a : No OMC Sample b : OMC 5.5% Sample c : Talc Artisto OMC contents: 5.5% patented Two Way Cake formular
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Loose Powder formular SPF Sample a : No BMDBM Sample b : BMDBM 2.4% Sample c : Talc Vasto BMDBM contents: 2.4% Talc Vasto: UV protection performance comparing test patented
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Sample a : No BMDBM Sample b : BMDBM 2.4% Sample c : Talc-Vasto BMDBM : 2.4% Loose Powder Formular PA Talc Vasto: UV protection performance comparing test patented
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Skin irritation of Artisto and Vasto patented NoTest material No. of Responder 48 hrs72 hrs 1+2+3+4+1+2+3+4+ 1 Negative, Vehicle control; Squalane(as a carrier) 0-------- 2Fit TT 300-------- 3 Fit ST 300-------- 4Artisto TT 100-------- 5 Artisto ST 100-------- 6 Vasto TT 100-------- 7 Vasto ST 100-------- (N=30) Test Institute : Dermapro Evaluation standard : Modification of Frosch & Kligman (1979) and CTFA guidelines (1981)
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Skin irritation of Artisto and Vasto patented Description of Grade DescriptionGradeAfter 30 minAfter 24 hrs Slight erythema, either spotty or diffuse 1+ Moderate uniform erythema2+ Intense erythema with edema 3+ Intense erythema with edema & vesicle 4+
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