1. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Chapter 17 Hairstyling

2. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. WHY STUDY HAIRSTYLING? Hairstyling is an important, foundational skill that allows the professional to articulate creativity and deliver a specific outcome desired by the client. Clients rely on you to teach them about their hair and how to style it so they can have a variety of options based on their lifestyle and fashion needs. You are the expert!

3. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. WHY STUDY HAIRSTYLING? The client looks to you for that special style desired for that special day. Hairstyling skills will enable you to help clients to be as contemporary as they would like to be, allowing them to keep up with the trends.

4. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Client Consultation A client consultation is always the first step Have your portfolio and hairstyling books or magazines for your client to look through to find what she likes. Pictures is worth a thousand words. Take in consideration face shape, hair type, and lifestyle. You maybe called upon to be a problem solver, fix a hairstyle for another salon that was not flattering for your client or did not match her hair type. If you can manage it you may have gained a loyal customer.

5. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Wet-Styling Tools Combs Brushes Rollers (short, medium, or long) Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) Pins Sectioning Clamps

6. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Finger Waving The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.

7. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Finger-Waving Lotion Makes hair pliable and holds it in place Made of karaya gum which is found in trees of Africa and India Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts of waving lotion Apply to one section of head at a time to prevent drying and requiring additional applications

8. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Horizontal Finger Waving VERTICAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges run up and down the head. HORIZONTAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges around the head are sideways and parallel to the floor.

9. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pin Curls PIN CURLS. Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. Parts of a Curl –Base –Stem –Circle

10. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Base: The stationary, or immovable, foundation of the curl, which is attached to the scalp. Stem: The section of the pin curl, between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle, which gives the circle its direction and mobility. Circle: The part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle. The size of the circle governs the width of the wave and its strength.

11. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. MOBILITY OF A CURL: The amount of movement (mobility) of a section of hair is determined by the stem. No-stem: Placed directly on the base of the curl; produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility. Half-stem: Permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the base; gives good control to the hair. Full-stem: Allows greatest mobility; curl is completely off the base; base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular depending on area of head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit; used to give hair a strong, definite direction.

12. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Mobility of a Curl –No-stem –Half-stem –Full-stem

13. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Shaping SHAPING: The section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either forward end or closed end. Always begin a pin curl at the open end, or convex side, of a shaping.

14. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Open- and Closed-Center Curls Open-center curls Closed-center curls OPEN- AND CLOSED-CENTER CURLS Open-center curls: Produce even, smooth waves and uniform waves. Closed-center curls: Produce waves that decrease in size toward the end; width of curl determines the size of the wave.

15. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Curl and Stem Direction CURL AND STEM DIRECTION: The finished result is determined by the direction in which you place the stem of the curl. Forward movement: Toward the face. Reverse movement: Backward or away from the face. Upward movement: Toward the top of the head. Downward movement: Toward the bottom of the head. Clockwise: Curls formed in same direction as the movement of the hands of a clock. Counterclockwise: Curls formed in the opposite direction as the movement of the hands of a clock.

16. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. PIN CURL FOUNDATIONS OR BASES: For control, divide the hair into sections or panels. Subsections for bases should be as equal as possible to avoid splits in the finished style. Rectangular base: Recommended at side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect; avoid splits in comb-out by overlapping curls. Triangular base: Recommended along front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits; allows a portion of hair from each curl to overlap.

17. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Arc base: Also called half-moon or C-shape base; pin curls are carved out of shaping; give good direction and may be used at hairline or nape. Square base: Used for even construction for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift; can be used anywhere on head; avoid splits by staggering the sectioning (bricklay fashion).

18. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases Rectangular base Triangular base Arc base Square base

19. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning-Forcing the hair between thumb and back of comb to create tension. Waves-Use two rows of pin curls, one set clockwise and the second set counterclockwise. Carved/sculptured curls- Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are referred to as carved curls, also called sculptured curls.

20. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Ridge curls-are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave. Skip waves- are two rows of ridge curls, usually on one side of the head. They create a strong wave pattern with well-defined lines between the waves. Pin Curl Techniques (continued)

21. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade (or stand-up) curls: Used to create height in hair; placed on base with circle at 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to head. Size of curl determines height in comb out. Barrel curls: Curls that have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular basis; similar to a roller but without the same tension.

22. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Roller Curl Advantages ROLLER CURLS: Used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. ADVANTAGES- Speed: Roller holds equivalent of two to four stand-up curls. Increased strength: Hair is wrapped around roller with tension, which gives stronger, longer-lasting set. Greater creativity: Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for any style.

23. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Parts of a Roller Curl Base- The panel of hair the roller is placed on; should be same length and width as the roller; base determines volume. Stem- The hair between the scalp and first turn of the roller; stem gives the hair direction and mobility, as with pin curls. Curl- The hair that is wrapped around the roller; determines the size of the wave or curl.

24. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl- Created by one complete turn around the roller. Wave- Created by one and one half turns around the roller. Curls- Created by two and one half turns around the roller.

25. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Roller Placement On base- Full volume – roller sits directly on the base; hair is over directed slightly in front of base and then rolled down to the base. Half base- Medium volume – roller sits half on its base and half behind the base; hair is held straight up from head and rolled down to the base

26. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Off base- Least volume – roller sits behind the base; strand is held at 45 degrees behind the base and rolled down Indentation- The point where curls of opposite directions meet, forming a recessed area. Often found in flip styles and bangs (fringe) with a dip or wave movemnet.

27. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Rollers HOT ROLLERS: Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by steam and are a great timesaver in the salon. Allow hot rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is weaker than a wet- set curl but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron. Spray-on products are available for application to each section of hair to create a stronger set.

28. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. VELCRO™ ROLLERS: rollers are not allowed by the state board of some states and provinces because they are difficult to clean and disinfect properly. Like hot rollers, Velcro™ rollers are used only on dry hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair. They give more body than can be achieved with a round brush, but less volume than a hot roller or wet set will produce. When used after blow-drying, Velcro™ rollers may provide just the amount of volume you need. Velcro™ rollers need to stay in the hair for only 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair. Follow the same setting patterns as with wet setting, but keep in mind that no clipping is necessary to secure the roller. The Velcro™ fabric grips the hair well and stays in place on its own. Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then either place the client under a hooded dryer for 5 to 10 minutes, or use the diffuser attachment on your blow-dryer for the recommended time to give a soft set to the hair.

29. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

30. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Back-Combing Technique Back combing is also known as teasing, involves combing small sections of hair from ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp forming a cushion or base. Section hair. Insert comb. Press comb to scalp. Create cushion base. Repeat for volume. Smooth hair.

31. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Back-Brushing Technique Back-brushing- also known as ruffing, used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out. Hold strand. Place brush. Roll brush. Turn brush. Blend hair. Complete styling.

32. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Thermal Styling Blowdry styling-The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation. Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain. The selection of styling tools, techniques, and products must relate to client’s lifestyle. Is the client capable of styling her own hair? What kind of time does she have? It is your responsibility to guide and educate your client through the process.

33. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Blow-Dry Styling Tools Blow-dryeris an electrical appliance designed for drying and styling hair. –Handle –Slotted nozzle –Small fan –Heating element –Speed/heat controls

34. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Attachments: Concentrator- is a directional feature that creates a concentrated flow of air. Difusser- causes the air to flow more softly, and helps to accentuate or keep textural definition Pick- Used to comb and straighten the hair during the drying process.

35. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. To keep your blowdryer safe and effective as possible, always make sure that it is perfectly clean and free of dirt, oil, and hair before use. Dirt and hair in the blowdryer can cause extreme heat and thus burn the hair. The air intake at the back of the dryer must also be kept clear at all times. If the intake is covered and air cannot pass through freely, the dryer element will burn out prematurely. BLOWDRYER CARE

36. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Combs, Picks, Clips Combs are designed to distribute and part the hair. They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes to adapt to many styling options.

37. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Brushes Classic styling brush Paddle brush Grooming brush Vent brush Round brush Teasing brush

38. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Classic styling brush- a half round rubber based brush. Ideal for smoothing and untangling all types of hair. Paddle brush-large flat bases, are well suited for mid- length to longer-length hair. Grooming brush- generally oval, with boars ahir and nylon bristles. Boars bristle help distribute scalp oils over the hair shaft. Great for adding polish and shine to fine- medium hair, and they are great for combing out updos. Brushes

39. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Vent brush- a ventilated design, and used to speed up the blowdrying process, and they are ideal blowdrying fine hair and adding lift at the scalp. Round brush- coming in a various diameters, the client’s hair should be long enough to wrap twice around the brush. Smaller brushes add curl; larger brushes straighten the hair and bevel the ends of the hair. Use cooling button on blowdryer to set the new shape. Teasing brush- thin nylon brush, that has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of bristles. They are perfect for back brushing the sides of the bristles are great for smoothing. Brushes

40. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Styling Products Foam or mousse Gels Liquid gels or texturizers Straightening gels Volumizers Pomade or wax Silicone shiners Hair spray or finishing spray

41. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Foam or mousse- is a light, airy, whipped styling product that resembles shaving cream. It builds moderate body and volume. Good for drier more porous hair. Good for textual movement and will not weigh down fine hair. Gels- thicken styling preparation, create strongest control for slicked or molded styles, they add distinct texture definition. May overwhelm fine hair. Liquid gels or texturizers- similar to firm hold gels except they are lighter. They allow for easy styling and molding, good for all hair types.

42. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Straightening gels- applied to damp hair ( wavy- curly) and blown dry, provides most hold in dry outdoor condition. Counteracts frizz by coating hair and weighting it down. Styles may become undone in extreme humidity. Volumizers- sprayed into the base of wet hair adds volume especially at the base. Use a vent brush or round brush for added volume. Pomade or wax- adds considerable weight to the hair by causing strand to join together, showing separation. Used on dry hair makes hair more manageability and easy to mold. Pomade is excellent for short hair.

43. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Silicone shiners- adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textual definition. Non-oily silicone products are excellent for all hair types, providing lubrication and protection during blowdrying or to finish a style by adding extra shine. Hair spray or finishing spray- applies in a form of a mist to hold the style in place. It is the most widely used styling product. Available in aerosol and non aerosol and a variety of strengths. Used when style is complete.

44. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Blow-Dry Cautions Do not hold dryer too long in one place, which could burn the scalp. Air should flow in direction the hair is wound. Direct hot air away from the scalp. Move in back-and-forth motion unless using the cooling button to cool a specific section. Partially dry before style blow-drying, due to the hair’s elasticity. This is especially important on damaged or chemically treated hair.

45. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Thermal Hairstyling Thermal waving and curling (also called marcel waving) are methods of styling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques. Thermal irons, which can be either electrical or stove heated, have been modernized so successfully that they are more popular today than ever before. Manipulative techniques are basically the same for electric irons or stove-heated irons.

46. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Thermal Irons THERMAL IRONS: Provide an even heat that is completely controlled by the stylist; should be made of the best quality steel to hold an even temperature. Four major parts –Rod handle –Shell handle –Barrel or rod –Shell

47. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Flat Irons Flat irons have two hot plates ranging in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across. Flat irons with straight edges are used to create smooth, straight styles, even on very curly hair. Flat irons with beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or cup the ends. The edge nearest the stylist is called the inner edge; the one farthest from the stylist is called the outer edge. Modern technology is constantly improving electric curling and flat irons, by adding infinite heat settings for better control, constant heat even on high settings, ergonomic grips, and lightweight designs for ease of handling.

48. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Testing Thermal Irons TESTING THERMAL IRONS- to ensure the temperature is correct so you do not burn or over process the hair. 1. Heat iron. 2. Clamp heated iron over tissue paper and hold for five seconds. 3. If paper scorches or turns brown, iron is too hot. 4. Let cool a bit before using. Overly hot irons can burn, scorch, or damage hair and can discolor white hair. Fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair withstands less heat than normal hair.

49. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Care of Thermal Irons Irons are designed to hold heat in a uniform manner, over- heating irons can ruin them. Wash in soap solution with a few drops of ammonia to remove dirt or grease. Use fine sandpaper or steel wool with a little oil to remove rust and carbon and to polish. Oil the joint to make sure you get more movement

50. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Thermal Iron Comb Size: Should be about 7 inches long, be made of hard rubber or other inflammable substance, and should have fine teeth. Holding the comb: Hold between thumb and all four fingers of the left hand, with the index finger resting on the backbone of the comb for better control and one end of the comb resting against the outer edge of the palm. This position assures a strong hold and a firm movement. Use for safety, held between the iron and the scalp so you do not burn client’s scalp.

51. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Temperature of Irons There is no single correct temperature when curling or thermal waving the hair. The temperature depends on texture of the hair whether it is fine or coarse or has been chemically treated or not. Lightened, tinted or white has typically should be curled with gentle heat. As a rule coarse grey hair can withstand more heat than fine hair.

52. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Manipulating Thermal Irons Grasp handles with dominant hand, far enough away from joint to avoid heat. Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

53. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Practice with Cold Irons

54. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Finished Thermal Curl Settings

55. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Thermal Hair Straightening Types THERMAL HAIR STRAIGHTENING: Also called hair pressing. Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of irons or combs. A pressing generally lasts until the next shampoo. It prepares the hair for additional service such as thermal roller curling and croquignole thermal curling (the two-loop or “Figure 8” technique).

56. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. THREE TYPES Soft press: Removes about 50 percent to 60 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair. Medium press: Removes about 60 percent to 75 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of hair using slightly more pressure than for a soft press. Hard press: Removes 100 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb twice on each side of hair. Can also be done by first passing a hot curling iron through the hair. This is called a double press.

57. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Analysis of Hair and Scalp Wave pattern of hair Length of hair Texture of hair Feel of hair Elasticity of hair Shade of hair Condition of hair Condition of scalp

58. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Texture and Feel of Hair HAIR TEXTURE: Determined by the diameter and feel of the hair. Coarse, overly curly hair: Coarse hair has the greatest diameter and requires more heat and pressure when pressing than medium or fine hair. Medium hair: Medium hair is considered normal; presents no problems and is least resistant to hair pressing. Fine hair: Fine hair requires special care; less heat and pressure is applied to avoid breakage. Wiry hair: Wiry hair may be any diameter (coarse, medium, or fine); it feels stiff, hard, and glassy; very resistant to pressing and requires more heat and pressure than other hair types.

59. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pressing and Scalp Conditions PRESSING AND SCALP CONDITIONS Normal: Proceed with analysis of hair. Tight with coarse hair: Press in direction of hair growth. Flexible: Pressing may take more pressure. CAUTION: Hair pressing should NOT be done on a client with scalp abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, scalp injury, or chemically damaged or relaxed hair. If any of these conditions exist, advise client to see a dermatologist. Failure to correct dry and brittle hair can result in hair breakage during hair pressing. Burnt hair strands cannot be conditioned.

60. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pressing Combs PRESSING COMBS (REGULAR AND ELECTRIC) CONSTRUCTION: Quality stainless steel or brass. HANDLES: Usually made of wood or substance that does not readily absorb heat. TEETH: More space between teeth produces a coarse or open-looking press. Less space between teeth produces a smoother press. Shorter combs are used with short hair and long combs are used with long hair.

61. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. TEMPERING THE NEW COMB: Allows the brass to hold heat evenly along the entire length of the comb which gives better results. Tempering also burns off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb. 1.Place comb in heating appliance until very hot. 2.Remove comb. 3.Coat in petroleum or pressing oil. 4.Cool and rinse TEMPERING THE COMB

62. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. HEATING THE COMB: Regular combs are heated on a gas stove or in an electric heater. During heating, teeth should face up and handle should be kept away from fire. Some combs have an on/off switch; others have a thermostat that indicates degrees of heat. TESTING THE TEMPERATURE: Test on light piece of paper; if paper becomes scorched, allow comb to cool slightly before applying to hair. ATTACHMENT: The attachment fits the nozzle of a standard hand-held blow-dryer and is less damaging than an electric comb or an oven-heated comb but may also be less effective at pressing the hair. Pressing Combs (continued)

63. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Cleaning the comb –Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris. –Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine sandpaper. –Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour. –Rinse and dry thoroughly. Pressing Combs (continued)

64. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Pressing Oil Benefits Makes hair softer Prepares hair for pressing Prevents hair from burning Helps prevent breakage Conditions hair after pressing Adds sheen Helps retain press

65. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. What to Avoid When Pressing Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt) Perfumed pressing oil near scalp Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)

66. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Injuries There are two types of injuries: Immediate physical damage: These injuries are the immediate results of hair pressing and cause physical damage, such as burnt hair that breaks off, burnt scalp that causes either temporary or permanent loss of hair, and burns on the ears and neck that form scars. Not immediately evident: These injuries can later cause physical damage, such as a skin rash if the client is allergic to pressing oil, or the breaking and shortening of hair due to overly frequent hair pressings. HINT: In case of scalp burn, immediately apply 1 percent gentian violet jelly.

67. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Special Considerations PRESSING FINE HAIR: Don’t use too much heat or pressure; apply less pressure near hair ends. PRESSING SHORT FINE HAIR: Take extra care at hairline and avoid excessive heat in comb. PRESSING COARSE HAIR: Extra pressure is needed for hair to remain straightened. PRESSING TINTED, LIGHTENED, OR GRAY HAIR: Lightened hair may require conditioning treatment; use moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure. Breakage and discoloration can occur on tinted, lightened, or gray hair if excessive heat is used.

68. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Styling Long Hair: Updos STYLING LONG HAIR (UPDOS): When longer hair is arranged up and off the neck and shoulders and secured with pins or other implements, it is known as an updo. ANALOGY: Have you ever watched someone knit a sweater or create a design with macramé? Did you notice how he or she carefully laid out the yarn or jute, separating colors, and planning where ornamentation might need to go? Both require a great deal of organization and planning. The same theories apply in styling long hair. You need to have a plan; you need to appropriately section the hair and clip hair out of the way while you work. Let’s take a look at how to create some interesting styles and updos with long hair.

69. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. VALUABLE SERVICE Weddings Proms Other evening events. Practicing basic techniques will help you improve your basic skills with long hair and allow you to express your creative talents.

70. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Client Consultation First, you should determine the client's desires. If the consultation is for a wedding, use magazines with bridal pictures or other current styles; suggest a trial run before the actual wedding; and have client bring in her headpiece. Get picture of wedding dress.

71. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Styling Long Hair Knot: also called a chignon a truly classic style has been popular for centuries. Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere. Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie events (sometimes called a classic French twist)Pleat is the french word “folded”.

72. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. Summary and Review 1.What is the purpose of finger waving? Finger waving is a process of shaping and directing the hair into a pattern of “S” shaped waves through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion. 2.What are the three parts of a pin curl? The three parts of a pin curl are the base, stem, and circle.

73. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 3.Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. Rectangular base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth upsweep. Triangular base pin curls are recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. Arc base pin curls, also known as half-moon or C-shape base curls, give good direction and may be used at the hairline or on the nape. Square base pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift.

74. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 4.Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each. On-base roller placements are used for full volume, the roller sits directly on its base. Half-base roller placements provide a medium amount of volume. Off-base roller placements provide the least volume. 5.What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing? Back combing and back brushing are the best ways to lift and increase volume, as well as to remove indentations caused by roller setting. Summary and Review (continued)

75. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 6.How can you avoid burning the client's scalp during blow- drying? By never holding the dryer too long in one place and by always directing the hot air away from the client's scalp toward the ends of the hair. 7.List and describe the various styling products used in blow- drying. Foam or mousse, gel, liquid gels, texturizers, straightening gels, volumizers, pomade, wax, silicone, hair spray. 8.How is volume achieved with thermal curls? By placing the curl very high on its base, accomplished by holding the curl strand at a 135-degree angle and wrapping with medium tension.

76. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 9. Name and describe three types of hair presses. Soft press—removes 50% to 60% of the curl. Medium press—removes 60% to 75% of the curl. Hard press or double press—removes 100% of the curl. 10. How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? Test the comb on a white cloth or white paper. Summary and Review (continued)

77. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 11. What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? That the hair and scalp be healthy and free from abrasions. If not healthy, give appropriate advice concerning corrective treatments. If there are signs of scalp skin disease, don’t diagnose; advise client to see a dermatologist. If signs of neglect or abuse are caused by faulty pressing, lightening, or tinting, recommend a series of conditioning treatments. 12. Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? Hair should not be pressed if a client has scalp abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, a scalp injury, or chemically damaged hair. Summary and Review (continued)

78. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. 13. List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing hair. Answer: Avoid excessive heat or pressure on the hair and scalp. Avoid too much pressing oil on the hair. Avoid perfumed pressing oil near the scalp if the client is allergic. Avoid overly frequent hair pressing. Keep the comb clean at all times. Avoid overheating the pressing combs if using a stove. Test the temperature of the heated comb on cloth or paper. Adjust the temperature of the comb to the texture and condition of the client’s hair. Be careful to avoid burning the skin, scalp, or hair. Dry the hair completely before pressing.

79. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part. You have completed one unit of study toward course completion. Congratulations!