1. Women’s Roles and Costumes in Feudal Japan
Costume Research and Ideas
Rachel Lines Anderton

2. Feudal Japan Feudal Japanese culture was partly influenced by China
Buddhism grew as an influence
This was a time of huge social and cultural growth
Feudal Japan had a unique culture that is full of color and tradition. Early Japanese culture was very distinct from other cultures, but by the later medieval era, Chinese culture had influenced Japanese clothing and art. Buddhism became a dominant religion around this time.

3. Women’s Roles in Japan Women take a high place in Japanese history
Murasaki Shikibu wrote the first novel in the 10th century, called The Tale of Genji
Early Buddhists didn’t believe women could reach paradise
Early Japanese society, however, was matriarchal
Women were important because of the importance of family
At some points in early Japan, men would join the woman’s family at marriage, not vice versa
Women even were known to lead troops into battle
Court lady in formal dress at the early stage of Edo era
The Costume Museum

4. Goddesses The Japanese celebrated many female gods
Izanami is the goddess responsible for giving birth to Japan
Before and during the Feudal eras, women were usually considered important, but were occasionally seen as evil
The goddess Izanami Searching the Seas with the Tenkei, Kobayashi Eitaku

5. Cultural Changes: Muromachi Era 1338–1573
1467 marks the destruction of Kyoto, in the wars of Ônin
Despite political strife, culture booms
Arts like flower arranging and nō theatre gain popularity
Simplicity and beauty are of importance
Buddhism takes precedence
Orchids and Rocks,
Gyokuen Bompo
(1348–after 1420)
Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Birth of the Buddha, (1392–1573), ca Unidentified artist

6. Woman’s Role: Muromachi Period
At this point, women began to take a slightly lesser role, although they were still considered important
Women took part in important ceremonies
During times of war, women ran the family on the husband’s behalf
Wives led the home and were part of family business
Family, not individual, was the important thing
Royals married for connection, but commoners still married for love
Concubines became more common, while polygamy became less common
Woman of the warrior class in street wear: a kosode pulled up over her head
The Costume Museum

7. Japanese Fashion: Muromachi Era
Powder Makeup used
Eyebrows darkened
Teeth Darkened
Rouge
Hair was worn low and loose
Karaginue: over-garment
Mo: train
Kouchigi: long ordinary wear garments
Hi-no-hakama: scarlet skirts
Kimono: basic garment
Obi, a decorated sash, comes into being
Upper Warrior Class woman’s costume, The Costume Museum

9. Materials
Besides bright fabrics like silks, accessories like gold, glass, and silver foil were attached to the garments
There’s a bit of disputation, but although noblewomen still wore up to 20 layers, in general the clothes were simplified
Woman of the upper class in tsubo-shozoku (tavel outfit) with mushi-no tareginu (a hemp veiled sedge hat).
The Costume Museum

10. Changing Culture: Edo period 1600-1868
Period of peace
Social changes because the decrease in need for warriors
Closed door policy enforced
Jôruri, puppet theatre, and Kabuki theatre gain popularity
Woodblocks allow for mass reproduction of artwork
Haikus gain popularity
The Great Wave at Kanagawa (from a Series of Thirty–Six Views of Mount Fuji), Katsushika Hokusai
Metropolitan Museum of Art

11. Women’s Role: Edo Era Women take a very small role in the Edo era
Least important time for women in Japan’s history
Kabuki was created by Izumo no okuni, a woman
Women begin to take a secondary place to men
Less is known about women in this era
Women Going to the City, Edo period, woodblock print
Dr. Martin Luther King Junior Library, San Jose State University

12. Japanese Fashion: Edo Era
Kimonos became even more popular, particularly because they were bought by the Samurai class
Dressing expensively was popular
Kimono, Japan, , crepe silk with paste-resist decoration (chaya-zome), stencilled  imitation tie-dye (kata kanoko) and embroidery in silk and metallic  thread.
Victoria and Albert Museum

13. Other Edo Fashions
In this era, men began what was called sakayaki, where they shaved the top and front of their heads.
Women wore their hair differently depending on social status
Hair oil and decorations were used more frequently
Kimonos were more simple, but obis became much wider, and were tied perpendicularly
This is both the most extravagant era and the most simple

14. Kimono Details These are details from a Noh costume kimono, Edo period
The fabric is silk satin, with silk embroidery and metal leafing
Kimono Details
Noh costume (nuihaku) with books and nandina branches, Metropolitan Museum of Art \

15. What Clothes Say Bright colors are exciting on stage
The clothing of the various Japanese feudal eras reflects the importance of women and beauty
Costumes set in this time period can add power and emphasis
Strong female roles fit well in this era
Bright colors are exciting on stage
Fine detail and intricate design can be challenging but interesting
A fresh cultural look at western ideas
Adds levels to the Japanese culture as well

16. Costume Ideas: Muromachi Era
King Lear:
-Inheritance
-Warrior class
Hamlet
-Marriage
-Feudal system
-Strong females
Love’s Labour’s Lost
-Marriage ties
-War themes
-Male vs. Female

17. Costume Ideas: Edo Period
The Mikado
-European culture influence
-Women play less of a role
-Katisha
Medea?
The Tempest
-Just for the fun of it

18. References
Goto,Michiko, LIVES AND ROLES OF WOMEN OF VARIOUS CLASSES IN THE IE OF LATE MEDIEVAL JAPAN. International Journal of Asian Studies, 2006, 3, 2, , Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom, Cambridge
Book References: Ema, Tsutomu. A HISTORICAL SKETCH OF JAPANESE CUSTOMS AND COSTUMES. KOKUSAI BUNKA SHINKOKAI(The Society for International Cultural Relations.
And
Perez, Louis G.. History of Japan. Westport, CT, USA: Greenwood Press, ProQuest ebrary. Web. 6 June 2015.
Kurushima,Noriko MARRIAGE AND FEMALE INHERITANCE IN MEDIEVAL JAPAN International Journal of Asian Studies, 2004, 1, 2, , Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom, Cambridge
"Muromachi period". Encyclopædia Britannica. Encyclopædia Britannica Online. Encyclopædia Britannica Inc., Web. 05 Jun < ecked/topic/398169/Muromachi- period>.

19. References
WOMEN IN MEDIEVAL JAPANESE SOCIETY HISTORY her/HIST252/lectures_te xt/women_medieval_%2 0japan.pdf
ish/index.htm. The Costume Museum, Kyoto. Curator: Yohei H. IZUTSU
org/, (Metropolitan Museum of Art)
bpages.com/hub/History- of-Kimono-Part-3-The- Medieval-Period
tkoch.com/Writings/Japa n.htm
wiki/Izanami-no-Mikoto