1. Waves, Beaches, and Coasts
Lecture 16
Waves, Beaches, and Coasts

2. Lecture Outline I Waves and Nearshore Circulation
A) The Role of Wind
B) Water Movement
C) Wave Definitions
D) Nearshore Circulation
i. Surf
ii. Wave Refraction
iii. Longshore Currents
iv. Rip Currents
II Nearshore Sediment Dynamics
A) Nearshore Sediment Budget
B) Shore Parallel
i. Landforms
ii. Human Interference
C) Shore Normal
Lecture 16 i

3. Lecture Outline III Coasts IV Conclusions A) Erosional B) Depositional
C) Drowned
D) Uplifted
IV Conclusions
Lecture 16 ii

4. Wave Properties Wave Number (k) k =  Wave Period (T)
Wave Frequency () = 2/T
Velocity (c) c = /k =/T
Steepness St = z/

5. Water Motion in Waves

6. Wave Types
Wind Waves
Seiches
Seismic Sea Waves (Tsunamis)
Tidal Waves

7. Wind and Waves
Wind Velocity
Wind Duration
Fetch

8. Wind and Waves
Wind Velocity
Significant Wave Height

9. Wave Evolution
Ripples
Sea
Swell
Wave Train

10. Wave Evolution Ripples

11. Wave Evolution Sea

12. Wave Evolution Swell

13. Wave Evolution Wave Train

14. Observed Waves

15. The Littoral Zone

16. Nearshore Circulation Wave Erosion

17. Nearshore Circulation Breaking Waves

18. Nearshore Circulation The Surf
Spilling Waves
Plunging Waves
Surging Waves

19. Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Spilling Waves

20. Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Plunging Waves

21. Nearshore Circulation The Surf - Surging Waves

22. Nearshore Circulation Wave Refraction

23. Nearshore Circulation Wave Refraction

24. Nearshore Circulation Longshore Currents

25. Nearshore Circulation Rip Currents

26. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach

27. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach

28. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics The Beach - Seasonal Changes

29. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics Coastal Sediment Budget