2. Definition Undulation that forms as a disturbance moves along the surface of the water

3. Anatomy of a wave Crest- highest part of a wave Trough- lowest part of the wave Wave height- vertical distance between crest and trough Wavelength-horizontal distance between adjacent crests Period- the time a wave takes to move past a given point

4. Wave Facts Water under a crest moves up and forward Water under a trough moves down and back Water particles move in circles as a wave passes Waves carry energy across sea surface but do not transport water

5. Formation and Size of Waves Waves form as soon as the wind blows Faster and longer the wind blows the larger the wave gets Size of waves generated by the wind depends on the fetch (span of water over which the wind blows) As a wave approaches the shoreline it slows down and “piles up” becoming high and steep making them fall forward and break creating surf

6. Sea vs. Swell Seas- a wave that has a sharp peak and relatively flat trough; found in the area where waves are generated by the wind Swells- a wave with a flatter, rounded crest and trough; found away from the area where waves are generated by the wind Sea Swell

7. Wave Reinforcement Wave reinforcement- when the crests of two waves collide and produce a higher wave

8. Wave Cancellation When a crest and a trough of two different waves interact and cancel each other