Download presentation
Presentation is loading. Please wait.
Published byBlake Randolf Butler Modified over 8 years ago
1
USING PLANTS FCHP Chapter 5 - part 2 HOS1010C - Introduction to Horticulture
2
4.12 List ways to reduce the initial cost of a landscape. The third option will likely give the best overall results. Sometimes this is not an option. In these cases, quality is more important than size. Use smaller plants Using less quality plants Delay a portion of the planting (Landscape in phases)
3
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 1.Plant selection 2.Site preparation 3.Planting procedures 4.Post-planting care (support, watering and mulching)
4
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 1. Plant selection: Only select quality plants No weak, scarred or cracked branches No “double leaders” or clustered branching Avoid plants with obvious health problems (yellowing leaves) Examine plants for insect, disease and mechanical damage Well-established root system (not root bound or penetrating the ground) Balled & Burlapped (B&B) roots balls - moist with soil held firmly by roots; in wire basket if larger than 24” diameter and from sandy soil Consider the cultural and environmental conditions where plants were grown or held.
5
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 2. Site preparation includes: Grading - leveling or establishing the desired slope(s) Dealing with compaction - tilling soil Managing water run-off - roof gutters and connecting pipes; direct water flow away from structures and to proper path Soil amendments - as needed for pH, organic matter content, drainage and/or aeration
6
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 3. Planting Procedures: Planting and establishing plants is all about managing air and moisture in the soil. The 3 most common causes of poor plant establishment are: 1.Planting too deep 2.Under watering 3.Over watering
7
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 3. Planting Procedures: For Container-Grown Plants: 1.Dig planting hole at least twice as wide and 10% less deep than root ball. 2.Gently position root ball straight in hole (with 10% of root exposed to air) 3.Fill around the root ball and gently firm the soil. Do NOT pack the soil. 4.Water thoroughly to remove air pockets. 5.After watering, mound soil (3-6 inches high) to cover sides of the root ball (water ring)
8
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 3. Planting Procedures: For Balled & Burlapped (B&B) Plants: (Similar to container-grown plants) Always move B&B plants by the root ball; not by the trunk. 1.Take care not to damage the root ball (root system) 2.Pull back top 1/3 of burlap from the Fill around the root ball and gently firm the soil. Do NOT pack the soil. 3.Remove all non-degradable wraps (plastic, twine) after placing the plant.
9
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 3. Planting Procedures: For Palms (known for ease of transplanting): (Similar to container-grown plants) 1.Best transplanted in spring or early summer - when soil temperatures are on the increase and there is more rainfall. 2.Install as soon as possible to reduce stress 3.If stored, keep the root ball moist and shaded 4.Advisable to temporarily “heel-in” root ball with mulch 5.Planting hole should be twice as wide as root ball and the same depth the palm was grown at (extremely important - do not match crown heights).
10
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 4. Post-Planting Care: Support: Most plants do not need staking/bracing; some trees do Needed to stabilize root ball during establishment (wind) Drive stakes in ground outside of root ball to prevent root damage Stakes should be deeper than hole to provide stable support Support wires, ropes… should not damage trunk (rubber hose) Remove supports as tree grows to prevent damage Flag guy wires for visibility Apply stakes/supports as low as possible and remove ASAP Staking can reduce diameter/weaken trunks
11
4.13 Describe the steps involved in the landscape installation process. 4. Post-Planting Care: Support - Palm Bracing: Large palms require for 6-8 months after planting Wood battens (short 2X4s) Banded or strapped to trunk - NOT NAILED Place layers of burlap beneath battens to prevent damage from scarring or scraping Nail support braces to battens
12
4.14 Describe the value of a good lawn. A good lawn… Helps eliminate erosion Reduce run-off Reduce surface temperatures Reduces noise Cuts down glare Helps filter air pollutants Provides recreational area Provides aesthetic beauty Increases property value
13
4.15. Name and identify the 4 grasses that provide the overwhelming majority of Florida lawns. St. Augustinegrass - Stenotaphrum secundatum Centipedegrass - Eremochloa ophiuroides Bahiagrass - Paspalum notatum Bermudagrass - Cynodon dactylon
14
4.16 Explain why selection of the best turfgrass species is so important to having a satisfactory lawn. Different grasses perform best under different growing conditions (ph, soil type, light level, moisture, grass height, salt tolerance…) Different grasses provide different uses/looks (lush, appearances, uses The cost of establishment and maintenance is varies.
15
4.17 Describie the characteristics of the following grasses: St. Augustinegrass - Stenotaphrum secundatum Versatile - most popular in Florida Dark green Excellent salt tolerance Adaptable to a variety of soils Susceptible to chinch bugs (can destroy an entire lawn) Requires moderate to high levels of maintenance and fertilization Established by sprigs, plugs or sodding
16
4.17 Describie the characteristics of the following grasses: Bahiagrass - Paspalum notatum Low maintenance Common for lawns and road sides Light green Drought tolerant Open growth habit Susceptible to mole cickets Not adapted to high pH or salt spray Established by seed or sod
17
4.17 Describie the characteristics of the following grasses: Bermudagrass - Cynodon dactylon Grow extremely fast Tolerate salt spray (but need freshwater irrigation) Grow on wide range of pH (4.5 to 8.5) Withstand wear well and recover rapidly from damage) Requires most maintenance Reel mower used for good appearance (golf greens, fairways and other athletic turf) Frequent fertilization, watering and mowing required Require at least 1/2 day of full-sun Susceptible to insects (scales, mites, mole crickets and caterpillars) Nematodes are serious problem Established by sprigs, plugs or sod
18
4.17 Describie the characteristics of the following grasses: Centipedegrass - Eremochloa ophiuroides Most common lawn on North and West Florida Low maintenance Thrives in full-sun or light shade Thrives on acid soils; does poorly on alkaline soils Low fertilization requirements Fertilization increases pest problems Good to excellent drought tolerance Cold tolerant Poor salt tolerance Resist weed invasion when healthy Scales (ground pearls) and nematode are pest problems
19
4.17 Describie the characteristics of the following grasses: Zoysiagrass - Zoysia spp. High maintenance (like Bermuda) Extremely slow grower (less mowing, slow recovery from damage) Best appearance from reel mower Adapted to a wide range of soils Shade and salt tolerant Excellent wear resistance Resists weed invasion High fertilization and water requirements Susceptible to pests (billbugs, brown patch, dollar spot, rusts and nematodes Produces heavy thatch
20
4.18 rank each of the grasses on tolerance (or requirements) for shade, salt, maintenance and drought. Shade St Augustine - excellent Centipede and Zoysia - fair Bahia - only light shade Bermuda - full sun only Salt Tolerance St Augustine - excellent Bermuda and Zoysia - good Bahia and Centipede - poor Low Maintenance Centipede - best for N. Florida Bahia - good (except mowing) St Augustine - fair (chinch bugs) Bermuda and Zoysia - very high maintenance Drought Tolerance Bahia - excellent St. Augustine - second best Bermuda, Centipede and Zoysia - good Bahia is only choice for high nematode areas.
21
4.19 List functions of plants when used in doors. Florida is foliage production capital of the world (Apopka). 1.Tie in door and outdoor together 2.Provide accent, focal points, break lines 3.Change the apparent size of a room 4.Compliment interior décor
22
4.20 Describe the lighting and environmental needs of plants used in doors. The indoor environment is NOT conducive to growing plants. Light Most important factor; dictates location Indirect or filtered (near windows) Turn plant to avoid on-sided growth Temperature 65-75 (F) during day and 10 degrees lower at night Less than 50F or sudden drops injure plants Avoid hot/cold spots and appliances Avoid hot or cold air blasts (vents)
23
4.20 Describe the lighting and environmental needs of plants used in doors. Humidity Best at 40-60% (indoors usually < 40%) Increase humidity with mist, humidifier, 2-3 inch bed of wet gravel, place close to other plants Air Circulation Good, draft-free circulation required Avoid gas from stoves, furnaces
24
4.21 Describe the watering, cleaning and fertilization needs of plants used indoors. Watering Over watering is common (lack of oxygen to roots) Only water when needed. Determine by touch, observing the soil, weight Cleaning / Maintenance Clean foliage of most plants weekly Dust lightly or mist for humidity Wash with water (mild soap) periodically If moved for cleaning, do not leave exposed to full sun Fertilization Less needed; grow slower than outdoor/greenhouse plants Rapid growth not desirable Problems with indoor plants are rarely a lack of fertilizer Fertilize every 2-3 months (less in winter)
25
4.22 Describe the most common problems of indoor foliage. 1.Brown leaf tips or burned margins - dry soil or over fertilizing 2.Yellowing and dropping of leaves - air pollution low light, chilling, over-watering, poor drainage, poor aeration, root decay from soil borne insects/disease 3.Weak growth or light green/yellow foliage - too intense light, low fertilizer, root rot or poor root system 4.Small leaves with Short internodes - lack of fertilizer or being grown too dry 5.Small new leaves and leaves curling - too much light
Similar presentations
© 2025 SlidePlayer.com. Inc.
All rights reserved.