1. Introduction to Apparel Industry
Introduction to Indian Export Apparel Industry and Departmental Structure of the Industry

2. Introduction to Apparel Industry
Session 1
Introduction to Apparel Industry
Apparel is one of the basic necessities of human civilization along with food, water and shelter.
At present, it is amongst the fastest growing industry segment and is also the second largest foreign exchange earner for the country.
The apparel industry accounts for 26% of all Indian exports. The Indian government has targeted the apparel and textiles industry segments to reach $50 billion by the year 2015.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

3. Performance of Indian Apparel Industry
As the world’s second largest producer of textile and garments, India’s garment exports totaled US$ billion during the year , giving it an enviable market share of 2.99%.
The Americas, EU, much of Asia and Middle East are India’s clients.
The industry proudly supports 7 million people as part of its workforce, and aims to double this figure by ; even today it is the second largest provider of employment in the country.
For every INR 100,000 invested in the industry, an average of 7 additional jobs created.
The Apparel Sector alone contributes to 8% of India’s total exports with exports recording a 1% growth over last year.
By the year , India expects to record a 15% growth in quantity and 20% growth in values
In RMG exports, India, today, ranks 6th in the world, with a 2.6% world market share and robust 11% growth
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

4. Some Interesting Facts
The largest producer of JUTE
The 2nd Largest producer of Cotton yarn
The 2nd largest producer of cellulosic fibre / yarn
The 2nd largest producer of Silk
The 3rd largest producer of raw cotton
The 4th largest producer of synthetic fibre/yarn.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

5. Quotas, Tariffs and the End of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement
On 1 January, 2005, the quota restraints of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA) expired, finally bringing to an end four decades of restrictions on trade in textiles and garments among World Trade Organization (WTO) members.
Trade in these products is now governed by normal WTO rules.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

6. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

7. Process Sequence of Apparel Manufacturing
Design / Sketch
Pattern Design
Sample Making
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Spreading
Cutting
Sorting/Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Inspection
Pressing/ Finishing
Final Inspection
Packing
Despatch
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

8. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

9. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer.
It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish.
Marketing and merchandising department - A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head.
Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

10. A Merchandisers key responsibility
Product Development
Market and product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Production Follow Ups
Payments Follows
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

11. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

12. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
Sampling Department
In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit.
Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department.
Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s specification.
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production.
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

13. Types of Samples in Sampling Dept.
Proto Sample:
Fit Sample:
Pilot Run Sample:
Pre Production Sample:
Pre Size set
Size Set
Shipment Sample
Sales Sample
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

14. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

15. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e fabric will be obtained.
It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost.
A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

16. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

17. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

18. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

19. FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
The main objectives of this department are:
Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.
Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.
Inspection is done on the following grounds:
100% shade segregation is done.
100% width segregation is done.
15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics.
The fabric is checked in full width form only.
The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

20. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

21. ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they will have to do the sampling process and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory.
The lists of accessories and tests that are generally tested are as follows,
Button breaking test
Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
Color fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

22. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

23. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Planning department has a vital role to play
in the approval of the order
helps the merchants to determine the costing of a particular style
tell the merchants if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time
helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

24. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

25. LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items.
But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

26. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

27. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a very important are to get ‘quality’ products.
Unacceptable quality of products often results ill-maintained machines.
Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively.
Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

28. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
Care of the fittings
Adjusting settings
Oil changing
Graph maintenance
Outward/inward reports
Needle weekly reports.
Machine configuration chart
History card
Needle log cards.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

29. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

30. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
CAD ROOM
Most of the apparel industries has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of some specialized software package.
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
Determining cutting average for costing
Making the most efficient cutting marker
Development and alteration of patterns
Development of size set pattern by grading
Embroidery graphics making
Digitizing the pattern
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

31. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
MARKER
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

32. BASIC WORK FLOW of CAD ROOM
Send to merchandiser for costing
Pattern correction
Pattern grading
Cut ratio planning
Marker planning according to the cut plan ratio
Output mini marker to printer
Output marker to plotter
Send to cutting room for cutting
Output to Graphtec plotter
Pattern sent to merchandiser for sampling
Receive spec sheet
Receive Patterns
Digitize pattern to feed in system
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

33. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

34. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
CUTTING ROOM
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads.
It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims averages.
Measurement sheet
Design worksheet of the garment
Purchase order
Fabric requisition sheet
CAD mini marker
Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

35. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

36. Production Department
The production floor does production in two types,
Pilot Production
Bulk Production
The production floor will receive the details like,
the style or the garment,
number of operators required,
the batch for which the style has to be installed,
any extra kinds of machines that are to be used for the particular style,
target for each day
Breakup of the production quantity.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the operators.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

37. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

38. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
IED DEPARTMENT
The IED department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the entire idea
of the garment construction
and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization
and other related aspects,
hence they play a vital role in determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the cost of the factory for that particular style of garment
The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

39. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

40. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the particular style demands.
The embroidery section receives the garments from the sewing floor or from the cutting department and then they start their embroidery process.
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

41. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

42. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
WASHING DEPARTMENT
Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that particular style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role in the final feel and the texture of the garment which has to match the specifications of the buyer 100%.
There are different types of washing procedures involved and they are classified as follows,
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry, Softener wash, Desize wash, Enzyme wash, Stone enzyme wash, Rubber ball wash, Denim wash, Bleach wash, Tinting/ T- staining
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

43. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

44. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applied even to garment industries also.
In order to maintain quality the quality assurance departments has split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there are classified into four major groups which are as follows.
Pre-production audit:
Cutting audit:
Sewing audit:
End – line audit:
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

45. Apparel Industry Departments
MERCHANDISING
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
IED DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
PURCHASING DEPARTMENT
WASHING DEPARTMENT
FABRIC AUDIT DEPARTMENT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
ACCESSORY STORES DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
PLANNING DEPARTMENT
LABORATORY DEPARTMENT
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
CAD ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control

46. Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment.
This department includes majorly of the following steps,
Trimming
Inspection
Semi – pressing
Pressing
Tagging section
Packing
Solid Packing
Ratio Packing
Mixed Packing
Session 1- Apparel Standards Specifications & Quality Control