1. Shampooing & pH Scale
What’s in YOUR shampoo?

2. Lesson Objectives: Explain what is meant by pH Balanced.
Explain why some products are bad for your skin.
Determine which shampoo products are good for your hair.

3. Why do we shampoo our hair?
To cleanse the hair and scalp

4. How does Shampoo Work? Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic end – This is the “head” end of a shampoo molecule and is water attracting.
Lipophilic end – This is the “tail” end of a shampoo molecule and is oil-attracting.
Since both ends are working during a shampoo, a push-pull effect is created that causes the oils, dirt and deposits to form little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair.

5. How does shampoo work? Simplified
Surfactant molecules
Bubbles attract dirt
Must rinse all shampoo out of hair or dirt and oils will remain in the hair and keep attracting dirt.

6. How do I know a good shampoo from a bad one?
Ingredients in the shampoo
pH of the shampoo

7. What’s a pH Scale?
The pH scale takes its name from the words potential hydrogen.
It is a scale used to measure the acidity or alkalinity of a solution.
The pH scale uses a range from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral.

9. Perms & relaxers Drano milk 4.5 - 5.5 Hair & Skin Water Vinegar Lemons
Tomatoes
milk
Soda
Hair & Skin
Water
Hair Bleach
Perms & relaxers
Vinegar
Lemons
Drano

10. History of pH balanced shampoos
In the 1960’s Jheri Redding founded Redken, Jhirmack, Nexxus, and Jheri Redding Products. He marketed the first pH-balanced shampoos.
The litmus paper test was key in his marketing strategies.

11. The Chemistry of Shampoos
Water – The main ingredient, but purified or deionized.
Water is usually listed first on product labels because it represents the largest percentage of all ingredients. All others are listed in descending order.

12. Sulfates
They're strong chemical detergents (also found in kitchen degreasers like dishwasher soap) that give shampoo that foamy quality, but they can cause scalp irritation, redness, and itching.

13. DEA, MEA and TEA
The chemicals diethanolamine (DEA), momoethanolamine (MEA) and triethanolamine (TEA) are added to shampoos and other personal care products like bubble bath and facial cleansers to create the sensation of a rich foamy lather. These chemicals are often listed on labels as Cocomide DEA or Lauramide DEA. After repeated use, these chemicals are absorbed through the skin where they form cancer-causing nitrates and nitrosamines, according to both the Northwestern Health Sciences University and the State of Connecticut Department of Children and Families. Both of these groups recommend avoiding shampoos containing these chemicals. Read labels carefully, as most commercial shampoos contain DEA. Health food stores and medical supply outlets do carry DEA-free shampoos.

14. Isopropyl Alcohol
The petroleum-derived substance cleans and dissolves oils, but it's also found in antifreeze, wood finish, and shellac. Alcohol is also extremely drying and strips hair of moisture, which can lead to hair damage and loss.

15. Cetyl Alcohol
A lubricant and thickening agent used in a variety of products. Also referred to as palmityl alcohol, it is a synthetic fatty substance made from oils that reduces the surface tension of a liquid. It is most commonly found in shampoos and conditioners, since it can make hair feel smooth and soft.
This substance contains 16 carbons, which makes it oilier than many other types of alcohols.

16. Docosanol, also known as behenyl alcohol
A saturated fatty alcohol used traditionally as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickener in cosmetics, nutritional supplement and more recently, in a Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved pharmaceutical, Abreva, approved as an antiviral agent for reducing the duration of cold sores caused by the herpes simplex virus.

17. Formaldehyde
The chemical preservative kills bacteria, but it's also a known carcinogen that irritates the eyes and respiratory system and can cause skin inflammation.

18. Propylene Glycol
The detergent helps cleaning ingredients penetrate hair, but it also breaks down healthy-hair proteins and irritates sensitive skin and eyes.

19. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate/Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Once found in pretty much every shampoo, these ingredients help cleanse and foam. Both are derived from coconut oil, but they’re two different ingredients. “They’re similar, but the Laureth goes through an ethoxylation process.
Which means? Ethoxylation results in a byproduct called 1,4 dioxane—it’s not listed on the label, but that is the cancer-causing aspect of the ingredient. So, avoid any ingredients ending in ‘eth.’ Which means you want to avoid ammonium laureth sulfate.
While it used to be found in almost every shampoo, when concerns were raised over the ingredient’s toxicity level, a lot of companies switched over to the ammonium versions—not that it’s much better. The sodium and ammonium laureth sulfates are known cancer-causing ingredients.
So what should you look for instead? Anything with the words “glucose” or “glucoside” in them—for example, sodium lauryl glucose or lauryl glucose.

20. Sodium Chloride
It may sound sinister, but sodium chloride—found in thousands of shampoos—is just salt used to thicken or trigger thickening capabilities in your shampoo. No need to fret—or search for another alternative.

21. Behentrimonium Chloride
Another type of salt used in shampoos, conditioners and hairstyling products as a preservative. But is it damaging to your body?
It can have some level of irritation, just like any preservative can but not harmful.
If you’re concerned, look for products with dehydroacetic acid and benzyl alcohol instead.

22. Cocamidopropyl Betaine
You’ll find this foaming agent—a surfactent derived through a chemical process with coconut oil —in shampoo and body washes. In a finished product, it causes no harm to the body, and while there are alternatives, they’re not necessary.

23. Polysorbates 2 different views
This solvent or emulsifier helps to bind oil and water together, it’s predominantly found in conditioners, but there are some shampoos that carry it too. But this one’s loaded with trouble for your body.
It’s damaging at a few levels, while some professionals don’t report any real health concern, it often leaves a residue on the skin, disrupts the skin’s natural pH
There are alternatives to using polysorbates, They’re expensive, so they’re often not used. The best are derived from corn: zea mays or maize, often listed as corn water or propanediol.”
Extensive clinical skin testing showed Polysorbates to have little potential for human skin irritation or evidence of skin sensitization or phototoxicity. The available data indicate that these ingredients are used in numerous preparations without clinical reports of significant adverse effects. It is concluded that they are safe for use in cosmetics at present concentrations of use.

24. Glycol
Not all glycol is created equal. It’s a common ingredient in hair and personal care products, but there are different types. The more common are polyethylene glycol, often listed as PEG. These, again, are ethoxylated and are cancer-causing chemicals. It’s used as a solvent to incorporate products into a formula, and they’re extremely dangerous—they’re known carcinogens. So what can we use in their place? The corn maize-derived solvent listed above.

25. Amodimethicone
That smooth feeling you get when you run your hands through freshly conditioned hair? That’s amodimethicone, a silicone-based polymer used to seal in moisture. But it comes with its own host of troubles. 
Dimethicones and silicones are occlusive, meaning they don’t allow something to breathe—they seal in moisture and seal out everything else. Avoid dimethicones and silicones when possible because the scalp needs to breathe. Sealing the scalp could lead to thinning of the hair. However, on the hair follicle, it can protect it from heat and provide shine.
So what should you use instead? Look for natural oils like jojoba, argan, rose hip, sweet almond, olive oil or shea butter.

26. Aloe barbadensis leaf
The Aloe barbadensis leaf, or aloe vera as it is more commonly known, can be crushed down to form a liquid. This liquid is called aloe juice. The aloe plant has long been regaled for its medicinal properties, and the juice that comes from its leaves known to soothe and help speed healing of a variety of conditions and ailments.

27. Keratin
Keratin is a protein that occurs naturally in the body, not only in hair, but also in skin and nails.
Keratin shampoos & conditioners are designed to strengthen hair as it cleans and conditions.

28. Hydrolyzed Collagen
Many protein shampoos also contain collagen. As with keratin, collagen is a protein naturally found in the hair. This protein provides strength and elasticity as well as protects against breakage. Collagen is commonly combined with keratin and other proteins to create a well-balanced product.

29. Glycerin
It acts as a protective barrier to follicles, helping hair retain moisture long after you've rinsed.

30. Nut and Seed Oils
Jojoba, avocado, and shea naturally add moisture and shine to hair while also removing oily build up.

31. Acidic ingredients
Sodium citrate or citric acid helps keep shampoo at the right pH balance to wash away dirt and oil while also causing hair cuticles to lie flat so hair looks shiny and smooth.

32. Panthenol
A form of vitamin B, it thickens hair follicles and helps to retain moisture and shine.

33. Silk Amino Acid (SAAs)
Also known as Sericin is a natural water-soluble glycoprotein extracted from raw silk. It is used as an additive in skin and hair care products due to its high levels of serine which has excellent moisture preservation characteristics. As a water-based additive it is used to provide a protective barrier and silky feel to lotions, soaps, personal lubricants, hair and skincare products.

34. Essential Questions
1. What order are the ingredients listed on the bottle label? 2. What is the first ingredient in shampoos? 3. Why is it important to rinse all of the shampoo out of your hair?

35. How does your shampoo rate?
Check the pH
Check the ingredients