1. Milady Standard Cosmetology
Wet Hairstyling
Milady Standard Cosmetology
©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

2. “You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you”
Mary Tyler Moore

3. Objectives
Explain the importance of learning the various wet hairstyling techniques
Demonstrate the techniques of fingerwaving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping
LEARNING MOTIVATION (WHY?)
We know that hairstyling is cyclical and changes regularly based on fashion trends and lifestyle changes of society. The art of finger waving was in special demand in the roaring twenties when the “flapper” attitude and style were the “in” thing. If you watch the runways today for great fashion designers, you will see variations of that close-head “twenties” look which are created with, none other than, fingerwaves!
In today’s lesson, you will learn the art of fingerwaving. It is a basic concept and procedure that will serve as the foundation of many of the hairstyles you will provide in the salon. Remember, that even though hairstyle trends of the youth today are freer and less rigid, there is still a large market for wet styling, especially when you consider our aging society. Learning to perform beautiful fingerwaves will challenge you, but will ultimately serve you well in your hair designing career. Even if styles requiring fingerwaving are not in demand, the technique teaches you how to move and direct the hair. It helps you develop the dexterity, coordination, and finger strength required for professional hairstyling. It also provides you with valuable training in creating hairstyles and in molding hair to the curved surface of the head.
After we have covered the basics of fingerwaving, the next logical step in studying wet hairstyling is to learn how to create beautiful pin curls. They provide the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls and rolls that you will use constantly when you design and create hairstyles. You can use pin curls on hair that is straight, permanent-waved, or naturally curly. Pin curls are not suitable for hair that is overly curly. As with a good haircut, pin curls will serve as the foundation for many lines and designs you will create whether for everyday wear or for evening or competition styles.
After we learn about the fundamentals in hairstyling of fingerwaves and pin curls, it is time to move into roller curls. Then, of course, it will be necessary to study and practice comb-out techniques to ensure your ability to finish a style and satisfy your client.
Much earlier you studied about the characteristics of hair, which really is your medium, in the art of designing hairstyles. As you continue working with wet styling, you will see more and more how important knowledge of the hair quality is. The texture, density, length, and condition will all have a bearing on your styling results.
In wet styling, rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. Rollers hold the equivalent of two to four stand-up curls, saving a great deal of time, which we know means money in this business. Because of the tension placed on the hair around a roller, the set is stronger and longer lasting than with pin curls or blow-dry styling. Also, rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths and lengths, which give the stylist versatility in creating styles. Let’s take a closer look at all these wet hairstyling techniques.

4. Wet Styling Tools Rollers (short, medium, or long)
Clips (duckbills, double pronged, single pronged)
Pins
Clamps
Combs
Brushes
WET HAIRSTYLING BASICS - TOOLS
Rollers. Short, medium, or long.
Clips. Duckbills, double pronged, single pronged.
Pins. Bobby pins, hairpins.
Clamps. Sectioning clamps.
Combs. Tail, styling, pick, wide-tooth combs.
Brushes. Boar-bristle, teasing.

5. Implements and Materials
Towels
Plastic cape
Shampoo
Conditioner
Neck strip
IMPLEMENTS AND MATERIAL
Towels
Plastic cape
Shampoo
Conditioner

6. Wet Styling Preparation
Wash hands with soap and water
Perform client consultation
Drape client for shampoo
Shampoo and condition client’s hair
Remove tangles
PREPARING FOR WET STYLING
1. Wash hands with soap and warm water.
2. Perform client consultation and hair analysis.
3. Drape client for shampoo.
4. Shampoo client’s hair and condition if necessary.
5. Remove tangles with a wide-tooth comb, starting at ends and working to the scalp.

7. Parting the Hair Lay wide-tooth comb flat at hairline
Draw comb back to part end
Hold hair with index finger on one side
MAKING A PART
Lay wide-tooth end of styling comb flat at hairline.
Draw comb back to end of desired part.
Hold hair with index finger on one side of part. Pull rest of hair down with comb.

8. Finding a Natural Part Comb wet hair straight back
Push hair gently forward
Use comb and hand to separate where it parts
TO FIND A NATURAL PART
Comb wet hair straight back from hairline.
Push hair gently forward with palm of hand
Use comb and other hand to separate hair where it parts.

9. Creating a Part Lay wide-tooth comb flat at hairline
Draw comb back to end of desired part
Hold hair with index finger on one side and pull rest of hair down with comb

10. Fingerwaving
The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies
FINGERWAVING: Definition. The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies. NOTE: If this is a practical class, instructor should demonstrate the procedure and have students return the demonstration.

11. Fingerwaving Lotion Makes hair pliable and holds in place
Made of karava gum
Dilute for use on fine hair
Use concentrated for regular or coarse hair
Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry
Avoid using excessive amounts
FINGERWAVING LOTION
Makes hair pliable and holds in place.
Made from karaya gum. Found in trees of Africa and India.
Dilute for use on fine hair.
Can be concentrated for use on regular or coarse hair.
Harmless to hair and doesn’t flake when dry.
Avoid using excessive amounts of waving lotion. Hint: apply to one section of head at a time to prevent drying and requiring additional applications.

12. Horizontal Fingerwaving
Part hair, comb, smooth, arrange hair
Comb waving lotion through hair
Begin first wave
Form first ridge
Hold ridge in place
HORIZONTAL FINGERWAVING: NOTE: Hand out LP 15.0, H - 1 which lists the procedure for fingerwaves. Have students follow along the procedure sheet as you review and discuss each step. Fingerwaving may be started on either side of head. This procedure parts hair on left and wave is started on the right side.
Comb, smooth, arrange hair. After shampooing the hair, part it, comb it smooth, and arrange it according to the planned style. Using wide teeth of comb will allow hair to move more easily. Always follow natural growth pattern when combing and parting the hair.
Comb waving lotion through hair. Apply waving lotion with an applicator bottle to the side of the hair you are working on first while hair is damp. Then comb lotion throughout the section.
Begin first wave. On right side of head, use index finger of left hand as a guide, shape top hair with comb into the beginning of the S shaping, using circular movement; start at hairline, work toward crown in 1- to 2-inch sections until crown is reached.
Form first ridge. To form first ridge, place index finger of left hand above position for first ridge. With comb teeth pointing slightly upward, insert comb directly under index finger; draw comb forward about 1 inch along fingertip.
Flatten comb to hold ridge. With teeth still inserted in ridge, flatten comb against head in order to hold ridge in place.

13. Horizontal Fingerwaving
Place finger above ridge
Form dip
Continue waves to crown
Create ridge. Remove left hand from head and place middle finger above ridge and index finger on teeth of comb. Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure to head. Do not try to increase height or depth of ridge by pinching or pushing with fingers; such movements will create overdirection of the ridge and uneven hair placement.
Form dip in hollow part of wave. Without removing comb, turn teeth downward and comb hair in right semicircular direction to form a dip in hollow part of the wave.
Continue waves to crown. Follow this procedure, section by section, until crown has been reached, where ridge phases out. The ridge and wave should match evenly without showing separation in ridge and hollow part of wave.

14. Horizontal Fingerwaving
Form second ridge
Form third ridge at hairline
Continue forming alternate waves
Form second ridge. To form the second ridge, begin at the crown area. Movements are reverse of those followed in first ridge. Comb is drawn from tip of index finger toward base of index finger. All movements are followed in reverse pattern until hairline is reached, completing the second ridge.
Form third ridge at hairline. Movements for the third ridge closely follow those used to create the first ridge. However, the third ridge is started at the hairline and is extended back toward the back of the head.
Complete side. Continue alternating directions until the side of the head has been completed.

15. Horizontal Fingerwaving
Repeat on left (light) side
Form first ridge
Blend ridges and waves
Form ridges and waves toward left
Complete side
Repeat on left side. Use the same procedure for the left (light) side of the head as you used for fingerwaving the right (heavy) side of the head. First, shape the hair by combing it in the direction of the first wave.
Form waves and ridges. Starting at hairline, form the first ridge, section by section, until the second ridge of the opposite is reached.
Blend ridges and waves. Both the ridge and the wave must blend without splits or breaks, with the ridge and wave on the right side of the head.
Form ridges and waves in back of head to left side. Start with ridge and wave in back of head and proceed, section by section, toward left side of face.
Continue working back and forth until entire side is completed.

16. Horizontal Fingerwaving
Place net and dry
Cool down
Complete style
Place net and dry. Place net over hair, secure if necessary, and safeguard client’s forehead and ears while under dryer with cotton, gauze, or paper protectors. Adjust dryer to medium heat and allow hair to dry thoroughly.
Cool down. Remove client from under dryer and let hair cool down. Remove clippies and hairnet from hair.
Comb out and reset waves into soft, waved hairstyle. Add a finishing spray for hold and shine. For a retro, avant garde, or dramatic look, do not comb or brush, but perhaps add a hair ornament such as a rhinestone clip in the hollow portion of a wave.
OTHER METHODS OF FINGERWAVING: Instead of completing one side before beginning the other, you may want to complete one side of the head and then move to the other side to form the first ridge on that side. After joining the two, you can then repeat in this manner until you are finished with the entire head.
• Vertical. Ridges run up and down the head.
• Horizontal. Ridges are sideways and parallel around the head. The procedure for completing is the same for both.

17. Pin Curls Parts of a curl Mobility of a curl Base Stem Circle
No-stem curl
Half-stem
Full-stem
PIN CURLS: Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles.
NOTE: If conducting practical class, instructor should demonstrate each type of curl and procedure and have students return the demonstration.
PARTS OF A CURL
Base. The stationary, or immovable, foundation of the curl, which is attached to the scalp.
Stem. The section of the pin curl, between the base and firs arc (turn) of the circle, which gives the circle its direction and mobility.
Circle. The part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle. The size of the circle governs the width of the wave and its strength.
MOBILITY OF A CURL: The amount of movement (mobility) of a section of hair is determined by the stem.
No-stem curl. Placed directly on the base of the curl; produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility.
Half-stem. Permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed one-half off the base; gives good control to the hair.
Full-stem. Allows greatest mobility; curl is completely off-base; base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular depending on area of head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit; used to give hair a strong, definite direction.

18. Shapings Open center curls Closed center curls
SHAPING: This is the section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either forward end or closed end. Always begin a pin curl at the open end, or convex side, of a shaping.
Open center curls. Produce even, smooth waves and uniform waves.
Closed center curls. Produce waves that decrease in size toward the end; width of curl determines the size of the wave.

19. Curl and Stem Direction
Forward movement
Reverse movement
Upward movement
Downward movement
Clockwise
Counterclockwise
CURL AND STEM DIRECTION: The finished result is determined by the direction in which you place the stem of the curl.
Forward movement. Toward the face.
Reverse movement. Backward or away from the face.
Upward movement. Toward the top of the head.
Downward movement. Toward the bottom of the head.
Clockwise. Curls formed in same direction as the movement of the hands of a clock.
Counterclockwise. Curls formed in the opposite direction as the movement of the hands of a clock.

20. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
Rectangular base
Triangular base
Arc base
Square base
PIN CURL FOUNDATIONS OR BASES: For control, divide the hair into sections or panels. Subsections for bases should be as equal as possible to avoid splits in the finished style.
Rectangular base. Recommended at side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect. Avoid splits in comb-out by overlapping curls.
Triangular base. Recommended along front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits; allows a portion of hair from each curl to overlap.
Arc base. Also called half-moon or C-shape base; pin curls are carved out of shaping; give good direction and may be used at hairline or nape.
Square base. Used for even construction for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift; can be used anywhere on head; avoid splits by staggering the sectioning (bricklay fashion).

21. Designing With Pin Curls
Ribboning
Waves
DESIGNING WITH PIN CURLS
Ribboning. Forcing the hair between thumb and back of comb to create tension.
Waves. Use two rows of pin curls, one set clockwise and the second set counterclockwise.

22. Designing With Pin Curls
Ridge curls
Skip waves
Ridge curls. Pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave.
Skip waves. Two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head. Combines a combination of pin curls and fingerwaves.

23. Pin Curl Techniques Carved or sculptured curls
Shampoo, apply setting lotion, comb
Form first shaping
Slice strand
PIN CURL TECHNIQUES: There are a variety of methods to make pin curls. Your instructor may demonstrate other methods that are equally correct.
CARVED OR SCULPTURED CURLS: Implements needed are styling comb, setting lotion, and double-prong clips.
Shampoo hair, apply gel, comb smooth.
Form first shaping.
Slice strand. Point left index finger down and hold strand in place.

24. Pin Curl Techniques Ribbon strand
Wind curl forward; keep ends inside center
Hold curl and anchor with clip
Ribbon the strand.
Wind curl forward; keep hair ends inside center of curl.
Hold curl in shaping and anchor with clip.

25. Anchoring Pin Curls Start at open end Place clip
Enter circle parallel to stem
One prong above and one below circle
Upper prong in center of circle
Place cotton between skin and clip
ANCHORING PIN CURLS
Start at open end of curl; this is the side opposite of stem.
Clip should enter circle parallel to stem. Open clip and place one prong above and one prong below one side of circle. Upper prong should enter hair in center of circle. Curl should be in gap between prongs; avoid indentation by not pinning across the circle.
Place cotton between skin and clip to keep skin from burning under dryer.

26. Creating Volume with Cascade Curls
CREATING VOLUME WITH PIN CURLS
Cascade or stand-up curls. Used to create height in hair; placed on base with circle at 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to head. Size of curl determines height in comb-out.
Barrel curls (NOT PICTURED). Curls which have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular basis; similar to a roller without the same tension.

27. Roller Curl Advantages
Speed
Increased strength
Greater creativity
ROLLER CURLS: Used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls.
ADVANTAGES
Speed. Roller holds equivalent of two to four stand-up curls.
Increased strength. Hair is wrapped around roller with tension, which gives stronger, longer-lasting set.
Greater creativity. Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for any style.
Hot Rollers [Instructor may want to add this information]
Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by steam, and are a great time-saver in the salon. Follow the same setting patterns as with wet setting, but allow the hot roller to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. The result is a curl that is less strong than a wet set curl but stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a curling iron.
Some manufacturers have spray-on products to apply to each section of hair to create a stronger set.

28. Parts of a Roller Curl Base Stem Curl PARTS OF A ROLLER CURL
Base. The panel of hair the roller is placed on; should be same length and width as the roller; base determines volume.
Stem. The hair between the scalp and first turn of the roller; stem gives the hair direction and mobility — as with pin curls.
Curl. The hair that is wrapped around the roller; determines the size of the wave or curl.

29. Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl Wave Curls
CHOOSING YOUR ROLLER SIZE
C-shaped curl. Created by one complete turn around the roller.
Wave. Created by one and a half turns around the roller.
Curls. Created by two and a half turns around the roller.

30. Roller Placement On-base Half-base Off-base Indentation
On-base. FULL VOLUME — where roller sits directly on base; hair is overdirected slightly in front of base and then rolled down to the base.
Half-base. MEDIUM VOLUME — where roller sits half on its base and half behind base; hair is held straight up from head and rolled down to base.
Off-base. LEAST VOLUME — where roller sits behind the base; strand is held at 45 degrees behind the base and rolled down.
Indentation. The point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area.

31. Wet Styling Implements and Supplies
Styling lotion
Rollers
Clips
Tail comb
IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, AND SUPPLIES
Setting or styling lotion; rollers of various sizes made from plastic, wire with mesh covering or sponge; clips; tail comb.

32. Wet Styling Directional combing Section and comb
Hold hair and place roller
WET SET WITH ROLLERS: NOTE: Hand out LP 15.0, H - 2 and have students follow along the procedure as you review it verbally. When you begin a demonstration, have students put handout away as reviewing it will distract them from the demonstration.
WET SET PROCEDURE
Directional combing. Comb shampooed hair in direction of setting pattern. Shapings may be used to accent the design.
Section and comb. Starting at front hairline, part off section the same length and width as roller. Choose type of base according to desired volume. Comb the hair out from the scalp to the ends using the fine teeth of the comb. Repeat several times to make sure that the hair is smooth.
Hold hair and place roller on strand. Hold hair with tension between thumb and middle finger of left hand. Place the roller below the thumb of left hand. Do not bring together the ends of the hair. Wrap ends of hair smoothly around roller until hair catches and does not release.

33. Wet Styling Wind strand Clip to scalp Dry hair; remove rollers
Style hair
Wind strand. Place thumbs over ends of roller and roll hair firmly to scalp.
Clip roller securely to scalp hair.
Place client under hood dryer. Set dryer at a comfortable temperature.
Remove rollers. When hair is dry, allow it to cool, then remove the rollers.
Comb out and style hair as desired.
VELCRO ROLLERS
Velcro rollers are not allowed by the state board of some states and provinces because of the difficulty of sanitizing them properly. As with hot rollers, Velcro rollers are used only on dry hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair. If you have a client who needs more body than can be achieved with a round brush, and less volume than a hot roller or wet set will produce, try Velcro rollers. They need to stay in the hair for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair. Follow same setting patterns as with wet setting, but keep in mind that no clipping is necessary to secure the roller. The Velcro fabric grips the hair well and stays in place on its own.
Mist entire head with hairspray, then either place the client under a hooded dryer for 5 to 10 minutes or use diffuser attachment on blow-dryer for the recommended time. For a softer look, do not apply heat after the rollers are put in, just have your client sit for a few minutes.

34. Back-Combing Technique
Pick up hair section
Insert comb
Press comb to scalp
Create cushion base
Repeat process
Smooth hair
BACK-COMBING PROCEDURE
Pick up hair section. Start near front, pick up section of hair about same thickness as teeth on comb and 2 to 3 inches wide.
Insert comb. Insert fine teeth of comb into the hair at a depth of about 1 inch from scalp.
Press comb to scalp. Press comb gently down to scalp, rotating comb down and out of hair. Repeat this process, working up the strand until the desired volume is achieved.
Strengthen cushion base. For strong cushion base, the third time you insert comb use same rotating motion, but firmly push hair down to scalp; slide comb out of hair.
Repeat process. Work up strand until desired volume is achieved.
Smooth hair. To smooth hair, hold teeth of comb or bristles of brush at 45-degree angle and pointed away from you; lightly move comb over hair surface.
HINT: Hair should be properly thinned or tapered for back-combing to be effective.

35. Back-Brushing Technique
Hold strand
Place brush
Roll brush
Remove brush
BACK-BRUSHING TECHNIQUE
Hold strand. Pick up and hold a strand straight out from the scalp.
Place brush. Maintaining a slight amount of slack in the strand, place a teasing brush or a grooming brush near the base of the strand. Push and roll the inner edge of the brush with the wrist until it touches the scalp.
Roll brush. For interlocking to occur, the brush must be rolled.
Remove brush. Remove the brush from the hair with a turn of the wrist, peeling back a layer of hair. The hair will be interlocked to form a soft cushion at the scalp.

36. Back-Brushing Technique
Blend hair
Complete styling
Blend hair. You can create softness and evenness of flow by blending, smoothing, and combing. Avoid exaggerations and overemphasis. Finished patterns should reflect rhythm, balance, and smoothness of line.
Complete styling. Final touches make hairstyles look professional, so take your time. After completing the comb-out, you can use the tail of a comb to lift areas where the shape and form are not as full as you want them to be. Every touch during the final stage must be very lightly done. When you have completed your finishing touches, check the entire set for structural balance and then lightly spray the hair with a finishing spray.

37. Cleanup and Sanitation
Discard neck strip; place cape
Remove hair from combs and brushes
Disinfect combs and brushes
Disinfect rollers, clips, and picks
Sanitize workstation
Wash hands

38. Hair Wrapping Apply gel or silicone Wrap outer perimeter
Secure with duckbill clips
HAIR-WRAPPING PROCEDURE: NOTE: Have students refer to LP 15.0, H-3 and follow along the procedure as you review it verbally. Perform a demonstration if applicable. Hair wrapping is used to keep curly hair smooth and straight, while still retaining a beautiful shape.
HAIR-WRAPPING PROCEDURE
IMPLEMENTS, MATERIALS, SUPPLIES
Gel or silicone shine; boar-bristle brush; duckbill clips
PROCEDURE
Apply gel or silicone. If hair is wet, a light gel can be applied before wrapping. If the hair is dry, a silicone shine product can be applied for a glossy comb-out.
Wrap hair on outer perimeter. Hold one hand at the top of the head. Using brush in a pivot motion, wrap the hair on the outer perimeter of the head. Do not brush or push the hair to the back; the correct way is to always brush the hair clockwise around the head. Think of the head as a roller; your job is to smooth the hair in a circular motion around it.
Secure hair. Use duckbill clips to keep the hair in place while wrapping.

39. Hair Wrapping Continue wrapping Protect wrapped hair Dry hair
Continue wrapping in a clockwise direction around the head. Follow the brush with your hand, smoothing down the hair as you go along and keeping it tight to the head.
Wrap with neck strip. When all the hair is wrapped, stretch a neck strip around the head so that it overlaps at the ends. Secure the wrapped strip with a bobby pin and remove the clips.
Dry hair or let wrap set. If you have been working on dry hair, leave the hair wrapped for about 15 minutes. If hair was wet, place client under hooded dryer until hair is completely dry, usually 45 to 60 minutes, depending on hair length. The longer the hair is wrapped, the smoother it will be.

40. Summary and Review What is the purpose of fingerwaving?
What are the 3 parts of a pin curl?
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
By practicing and mastering fingerwaving, you will develop the dexterity, coordination, and finger strength that will be of great benefit to you as a cosmetologist. We have established that pin curls serve as the foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used to create a wide variety of hairstyles for all ages. We have also learned that rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls with the advantage that rollers hold much more hair than pin curls, which saves time. In addition, use of rollers gives a stronger and longer lasting style due to the tension used in wrapping hair around the roller.
Let’s review.
What is the purpose of fingerwaving?
ANSWER: It teaches the technique of moving and directing hair, helps develop finger coordination and strength, and provides valuable training in molding hair to the curved surface of the head.
What are the three parts of a pin curl?
ANSWER: Base, stem, and circle.

41. Summary and Review Name four pin curl bases and their uses
Describe three kinds of roller curl bases and their uses
What is the purpose of back-combing and back-brushing?
Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.
ANSWER: Rectangular base. Recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect.
Triangular base. Recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle.
Arc base. Gives good direction and may be used at the hairline or in the nape.
Square base. Suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift.
Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each.
ANSWER:
On-base. For full volume.
Half-base. For medium volume.
Off-base. For the least volume.
What is the purpose of back-combing and back-brushing?
ANSWER: Back-combing involves combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base. Back-brushing is used to build a soft cushion or mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb-out.

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