1. CURRENT and FUTURE DIRECTIONS in COTTON STRUCTURE & QUALITY (CSQ) RESEARCH at SRRC-ARS-USDA Dr. James Rodgers SRRC-ARS-USDA New Orleans, LA 2008 BELTWIDE COTTON CONFERENCE Nashville, TN January 10, 2008

2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS SRRC SCIENTISTS: SRRC SUPPORT STAFF: Dr. Patricia Bel Post-docs and Support Scientists Dr. Patricia Bel Post-docs and Support Scientists Dr. Xiaoliang “Leon” Cui Technicians Dr. Xiaoliang “Leon” Cui Technicians Dr. Alfred French Operators Dr. Alfred French Operators Dr. Joseph Montalvo Dr. Joseph Montalvo Mr. John Price Mr. John Price CQRS, Clemson, SC (Dr. Devron Thibodeaux, RL) STAKEHOLDERS and COLLABORATORS: Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) Cotton Incorporated Cotton Incorporated National Cotton Council National Cotton Council And many more…. And many more….

3. CSQ Today, Cotton Research still represents a major area of interest and emphasis at the Southern Regional Research Center (SRRC). Cotton Structure and Quality (CSQ) Cotton Chemistry and Utilization (CCU) Cotton Fiber Bioscience (CFB) Food and Feed Safety (FFS)—Aflatoxin Commodity Utilization (CU)—New uses for cottonseed

4. CSQ MISSION AND STRENGTHS DEVELOP AND IMPROVE THE METHODS FOR ASSESSING QUALITYDEVELOP AND IMPROVE THE METHODS FOR ASSESSING QUALITY AND STRUCTURAL ATTRIBUTES OF COTTON FIBER THROUGH ALL STAGES OF PRODUCTION AND PROCESSING. APPLIED DISCIPLINES INCLUDE PHYSICS, CHEMISTRY, PLANTAPPLIED DISCIPLINES INCLUDE PHYSICS, CHEMISTRY, PLANT SCIENCE, AND TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY. STRENGTHS: ExperienceExperience Knowledge of Textile Physical Properties/Quality (Fiber → Yarn → Fabric)Knowledge of Textile Physical Properties/Quality (Fiber → Yarn → Fabric) Strong Fiber/Yarn/Fabric Testing Labs (“Dry” Labs)Strong Fiber/Yarn/Fabric Testing Labs (“Dry” Labs) Textile Mill for Small Scale Processing (Opening→Carding→Spinning→Weaving)Textile Mill for Small Scale Processing (Opening→Carding→Spinning→Weaving) Strong Microscopy and Moderate Image Analysis CapabilitiesStrong Microscopy and Moderate Image Analysis Capabilities Environmental Room (Environmental Condition Impacts on Fiber Properties)Environmental Room (Environmental Condition Impacts on Fiber Properties) Updated/New Fiber Testing Equipment (e.g., HVI 1000)Updated/New Fiber Testing Equipment (e.g., HVI 1000)

5. CSQ

6. CSQ

7. CSQ FQEL Quality Measurements & Fiber Quality Evaluation Lab: relates raw fiber quality to process and product quality

8. CSQ FQEL Opening/Cleaning Chute-Fed Carding Breaker Drawing Roving Finisher Drawing Ring Spinning 16’s, 22’s, 30’s Ne Weaving Knitting Fiber O-E Spinning 16’s, 22’s, 30’s Ne HVI/AFIS/CIE Lab Color AFIS Evenness, Skeins, TensoRapid White Speck Dyeability AFIS Evenness, Skeins, TensoRapid Tensile & Tear Small Sample (10 kg) Processing/SamplingProtocol Dyeability

9. CSQ RESEARCH DIRECTIONS OVERALL CSQ STATUS—RE-DIRECTION and RE-FOCUSOVERALL CSQ STATUS—RE-DIRECTION and RE-FOCUS  New organization  Task-oriented, with emphasis on  Impact  Critical results and knowledge to the industry in a timely manner RESEARCH EMPHASISRESEARCH EMPHASIS  Developing new and strengthening present collaborations  Re-directing and focusing on high priority research programs (short fiber content/length, seed coat fragments, at-line/field analyses, maturity, moisture analyses and moisture-fiber relationships, etc.)  Re-organizing research, technical support, and service support programs

10. CSQ EXTERNAL INTERACTIONS & COLLABORATIONS AGRICULTURAL MARKETING SERVICE (AMS)AGRICULTURAL MARKETING SERVICE (AMS) COTTON INCORPORATEDCOTTON INCORPORATED CQRS (CLEMSON, SC)CQRS (CLEMSON, SC) INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CENTER (ITC)/TTINTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CENTER (ITC)/TT NATIONAL COTTON COUNCILNATIONAL COTTON COUNCIL COTTON QUALITY TASK FORCE (with NCC, CQRS, and others)COTTON QUALITY TASK FORCE (with NCC, CQRS, and others) GINNING LABORATORIESGINNING LABORATORIES PRODUCERSPRODUCERS LOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITYLOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY NORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITYNORTH CAROLINA STATE UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY OF GEORGIAUNIVERSITY OF GEORGIA UNIVERSITY OF TENNESSEE-KNOXVILLEUNIVERSITY OF TENNESSEE-KNOXVILLE UNIVERSITY OF NEW ORLEANSUNIVERSITY OF NEW ORLEANS UNIVERSITY OF TEXAS-AUSTINUNIVERSITY OF TEXAS-AUSTIN Other Universities: AUBURN, MINNESOTA, GRAZ (AUSTRIA), BUDAPESTOther Universities: AUBURN, MINNESOTA, GRAZ (AUSTRIA), BUDAPEST

11. CSQ CURRENT INITIATIVES Unified FQEL Database to Include Production, Testing, And Processing for a Diverse SetUnified FQEL Database to Include Production, Testing, And Processing for a Diverse Set of Cottons (Foreign & Domestic). Fiber Quality Measurements to Better Predict Processing Efficiency and Product QualityFiber Quality Measurements to Better Predict Processing Efficiency and Product Quality (Short Fiber Content/Length, Seed Coat Fragments, At-Line/Field Analyses, Maturity, Color, etc.). Quality Assessment Tools for Cotton Producers to Aid in Decision Making.Quality Assessment Tools for Cotton Producers to Aid in Decision Making. Develop New Quality Tools for Field And At-line Measurements that Will Lead to theDevelop New Quality Tools for Field And At-line Measurements that Will Lead to the Vertical Integration of the Cotton Chain from the Cotton Field to Fabric, Emphasizing New Technologies. Structures and Structure Changes Due to Moisture and Their Relationship to FiberStructures and Structure Changes Due to Moisture and Their Relationship to FiberProperties. Mechanisms of Fiber Breakage, Including Influences of Moisture.Mechanisms of Fiber Breakage, Including Influences of Moisture. Correlate Moisture Properties with Fiber Physical Properties and Processing Performance.Correlate Moisture Properties with Fiber Physical Properties and Processing Performance.

12. CSQ CURRENT INITIATIVES (Cont) Develop International Standards for Key Fiber Measurements to Address the Lack ofDevelop International Standards for Key Fiber Measurements to Address the Lack of Internationally Recognized, Independent Standards for Cotton Fiber Measurements. Quantify and Determine the Quality of U.S. Cottons as Compared to Foreign Cottons.Quantify and Determine the Quality of U.S. Cottons as Compared to Foreign Cottons. Shift Textile Mill Processing from a Small Manufacturing Mill to a Pilot Plant System.Shift Textile Mill Processing from a Small Manufacturing Mill to a Pilot Plant System.  Emphasize Mini- and Small-Scale Textile Production of Experimental/Test Items.  Modular Processing Equipment. Protocols for Processing Micro-, Mini-, and Small-Scale Samples in Support of ImprovedProtocols for Processing Micro-, Mini-, and Small-Scale Samples in Support of Improved Fiber Quality Measurement Programs. Strengthen the Close Relationship between CQRS and CSQ so as to More Closely AlignStrengthen the Close Relationship between CQRS and CSQ so as to More Closely Align the Two Groups and to Fully Utilize the Strengths of Both Units.

13. FIELD ANALYSES NIR FIELD ANALYSES Rodgers

14. IMPROVED SFC PREDICTORS YARN PROPERTIES LHML R 2 SFC R 2 Ends Down0.81560.7909 Irregularity (CV%)0.78670.7287 Strength0.77090.7458 Strength CV0.17420.1268 Thick Places0.82640.7033 Thin Places0.56950.5582 Cui

15. REFERENCE MOISTURE METHODS PERCENT MOISTURE OF SIX COTTONS Montalvo

16. STRUCTURE/COMPUTATIONAL ANALYSES MODEL OF CELLULOSE Iβ STARTING FROM CRYSTAL STRUCTURE French

17. COLOR ANALYSES IMPACTS OF GLASS USE ON AMS TILE MEASUREMENTS Rodgers Without Glass With Glass

18. MINI/SMALL SCALE EQUIPMENT CCI SIZING MACHINE → MINI-WARPER → SAMPLING LOOM SHIRLEY MINI. RING SPIN. FRAME SHIRLEY MINI. DRAW FRAME

19. CSQ NEW CAPABILITIES (2004-2007) FIBER PHYSICALS: USTER® HVI 1000 FIBER TESTERUSTER® HVI 1000 FIBER TESTER USTER® AFIS-PRO FIBER TESTERUSTER® AFIS-PRO FIBER TESTER USTER® UT4 YARN TESTERUSTER® UT4 YARN TESTER USTER® TENSORAPID 4USTER® TENSORAPID 4 FIBER IMAGE ANALYSIS SYSTEM (FIAS)FIBER IMAGE ANALYSIS SYSTEM (FIAS) FAVIMAT AUTOMATED SINGLE FIBER TESTERFAVIMAT AUTOMATED SINGLE FIBER TESTER AUTOMATED WHITE SPECK ANALYSIS SYSTEMAUTOMATED WHITE SPECK ANALYSIS SYSTEM STRUCTURE ANALYSES: COMPUTER CLUSTERCOMPUTER CLUSTER MICROSCOPE SOFTWARE UPGRADESMICROSCOPE SOFTWARE UPGRADES ADVANCED SPECTROSCOPY: BRUKER FT-NIR (BENCH-TOP)BRUKER FT-NIR (BENCH-TOP) BRIMROSE 5030 NIR (PORTABLE)BRIMROSE 5030 NIR (PORTABLE) VARIAN UV/VIS (2)VARIAN UV/VIS (2) BRUKER FT-IR (2)BRUKER FT-IR (2) MINOLTA and HUNTERLAB PORTABLE COLOR UNITSMINOLTA and HUNTERLAB PORTABLE COLOR UNITS COLOR UPGRADESCOLOR UPGRADES FABRIC TESTING: WEAR/ABRASION TESTERWEAR/ABRASION TESTER BURST TESTERBURST TESTER FADOMETER/WEATHEROMETERFADOMETER/WEATHEROMETER LAUNDEROMETERLAUNDEROMETER