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Published byNora Morris Modified over 8 years ago
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HAIR RELAXERS Is a process that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. Whereas permanent waving curls straight hair, chemical hair relaxing straightens curly hair.
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Types of Chemical Hair Relaxers Ammonium Thio Guanidine hydroxide Sodium hydroxide
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Curly Hair There are varying degrees and types of curly hair. Extremely Curly- grows in long twisted spirals, or coils. Cross sections are highly elliptical and vary in shape and thickness along their lengths. Extremely curly hair usually breaks at the twists because of the inherent weakness in that section and because of the extra physical force that is required to straighten in.
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Thio Relaxers Use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving but at a higher concentration and a higher PH PH above 10 Higher concentration of ammonium thioglycolate than in permanent waving solution. Viscosity- measures the thickness of a product and affects how the fluid flows. This is more suitable for application as a relaxer. Breaks disulfide bonds and softens hair. After enough bonds are broken, hair is straightened into new shape and the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.
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Thio Neutralizer & Thio Relaxer Application The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in permanents. The oxidation reaction caused by the neutralizer rebuilds the disulfide bonds that were broken by the thio relaxer. The application steps are usually the same but neutralization steps could be different be sure to read the manufacturers directions first.
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Japanese Thermal Straighteners- sometimes called reconditioning or TR, use of thio relaxer with flat iron. Hydroxide Relaxer- the hydroxide is the active ingredient in ALL hydroxide relaxers. They will not completely straighten extremely curly hair and are intended for use on color-treated, damaged, and fine hair. Base Relaxers- require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer No-Base Relaxers- do not require the application of a protective base cream. They contain a protective base cream that is designed to melt at body temperature. Body heat causes the protective base cream to melt and settle out onto the scalp in a thing, oily, protective coating. Always apply protective cream around the entire hairline and scalp. Relaxer Strengths- Mild-Regular and Super Mild- fine color-treated, or damaged hair. It will leave some curl and wave in the hair. Regular- Intended for normal hair texture with medium natural curl. Most used produces smooth, straight hair. Super- Used to maximum strengthening on extremely curly, course hair. Periodic strand test- you can stretch the hair to determine if the curl is removed. If the curl is smooth it is done, if the curl returns continue processing. Hydroxide Neutralization- an acid-alkali neutralization that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxer and lowers the PH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds.
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Hydroxide Relaxer Application
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