1. Haircutting
Cos. 1
Cos 1

2. LEARNING OBJECTIVES
Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting.
Define angles, elevations, and guidelines.
List the factors involved in a successful client consultation.
Demonstrate the safe and proper use of various tools in haircutting.
Demonstrate proficiency of the four basic haircuts.
Demonstrate knowledge of other haircutting techniques.

3. HAIRCUTTING
Haircutting is the single most important service you must master as a professional cosmetologist.
A good haircut serves as the foundation of almost every other service in the salon.
Most people avail themselves of regular haircuts, which makes it a tremendous source of revenue and repeat business.

4. PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCUTTING
You need to develop an understanding of the important steps of the haircutting process.
These principles include:
Sectioning
Combing
Elevating
Cutting the ends
Expected and predictable results for every action or technique used.

5. ANATOMY OF THE SKULL REFERENCE POINTS
Understanding the reference points helps ensure balance with the design.
The reference points allow you to re-create the haircut again and again.
The reference points allow you to know where and when to change technique, and to make up for irregularities such as a flat crown.
Read only

6. Anatomy of the Skull
Becoming aware of where the head form curves, turns, and changes will help you get the results the client wants.
Show a bald headed manikin to show the reference points of the head

7. Reference Points Widest part of the head
Place a comb flat on the head.
Where the head starts to curve away or where the comb leaves the head is the parietal ridge

8. Reference Points Widest part of the head
Place a comb flat on the head.
Where the head starts to curve away or where the comb leaves the head is the parietal ridge

9. Reference points Bone that protrudes at the base of the skull
Place a come flat against the nape area
Where the comb leaves the head is the occipital bone.
Show a bald-headed manikin and mark or demo these points pn it.

10. Reference Points Highest point of the head
Place a comb flat on the top of the head
The comb will rest on the highest point or the apex

11. Reference Points 4-Corners
Place two combs flat against the side & back of the head
Find the apex and imagine two diagonal lines crossing at the apex

12. Areas of the head
Hair on the top of the head behaves differently than hair on the side of the head
Find the front & back by making a line from the apex to behind the ear
Crown is between the apex & back
Show this on a bald-headed manikin

13. Areas of the head Nape area is the hair below the occipital
Back and Front
Fringe or bangs area

14. Can you recall? SMART ACTIVITY
Let’s review
Can you recall? SMART
ACTIVITY

15. Lines & Angles Lines - Curved, horizontal, vertical, and diagonal
Angles – Elevation is how far you hold the hair away from the head.
Continue using the bald-headed manikin to demo these lines

16. LINES AND ANGLES Every haircut is made up of lines and angles.
Line is a thin continuous mark used as a guide.
Angle is the space between lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point.
The head is made up of curved and straight lines or surfaces.
USE THIS SLIDE AS A REVIEW FROM PRIONCIPLES OF HAIR DESIGN:
STRAIGHT ACROSS IS WHAT? Horizontal lines
Figure 11-9

17. STRAIGHT LINES There are three types of straight lines in haircutting:
Horizontal
Vertical
Diagonal
Figure 11-10

18. HORIZONTAL LINES Parallel to the floor
Direct the eye from one side to the other
Used in one-length and low-elevation haircuts
Build weight
Figure 11-11

19. VERTICAL LINES Up and down Perpendicular to the floor
Used to create graduated or layered haircuts and used with higher elevations
Remove weight
Figure 11-12

20. DIAGONAL LINES Between horizontal and vertical
Slanting or sloping direction
Used to create beveling (cutting the ends at a slight taper to create fullness)
Used to create stacking and to blend long layers to short layers
Figure 11-13

21. ANGLES
Basic geometry is important to haircutting because this is how shapes are created.
Angles are important in elevation and cutting line.
Figure 11-14

22. ELEVATION
The angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held or elevated from the head when cutting is called elevation.
Below 90 degrees builds weight.
Above 90 degrees removes weight or layers the hair.
READ ONLY – STUDENTS DON’T HAVE THIS SLIDE PAGE

23. Angles and elevations 0 degrees 45 degrees 90 degrees 180 degrees
How many degrees of elevation can you list from this diagram?
0 degrees
45 degrees
90 degrees
180 degrees

24. CUTTING LINE
Figure 11-16
Figure 11-17
The angle where the fingers are held when cutting, and the actual line that is being cut.
It is also called the finger angle, finger position, cutting position, cutting angle, and shears angle.

25. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO THE SUCCESS OF YOUR HAIR CUT
GUIDELINES
EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO THE SUCCESS OF YOUR HAIR CUT

26. GUIDELINES Also called a guide
Section of hair that determines length the hair will be cut
Located at either the perimeter or the interior of the cut
Usually the first section cut

27. STATIONARY GUIDE Guide does not move.
All other sections are combed to this guide and cut at the same angle or length.
A blunt cut is an example.
Figure 11-20

28. TRAVELING GUIDE It is also called a movable guide.
This guide moves as the haircut progresses.
When using this type of guide, take a small slice of the previously cut section and move it to the next subsection where it becomes the new guide.
Is used often in layered haircuts.
Figure 11-22

29. HAIRCUTTING Part 2

30. Learning/Content Objectives
Students will know what to look for during a client consultation for a haircutting service
Students will explain the importance of knowing face shapes and how it impacts a successful haircut for every client.
Students will identify tools used in haircutting.

31. CLIENT CONSULTATION
Have a conversation with your client to find out what the client is looking for.
You can offer suggestions and professional advice, and come to a decision about the most suitable haircut.
The desired look may include:
what the client wants.
time available for maintenance.
client’s lifestyle.
classic or trendy preference.
What are some things to look for during the consultation?
What properties of the hair are important when cutting hair?

32. THE FACE SHAPE Pull hair away with clip
Note length and width of the face
Note the balance of features:
Weight
Volume
Profiles

33. HAIR ANALYSIS
Density—number of individual hairs per square inch on scalp
Texture—the general quality and feel of the hair; fine, medium or coarse.
Wave pattern—amount of movement in the hair
Hairlines and growth patterns—cowlicks, whorls, and other growth patterns affect where the hair ends up once it is dry
Porosity- ability of the hair to absorb moisture.
Elasticity- ability of the hair to stretch over 50% and return without breaking

34. Tools Body Positions Safety
Start here on Thursday, Jan. 14th, 2016
Then perform a 180o cut on Marina

35. Let’s Review
What role does texture, porosity, elasticity, and density play in haircutting?
What questions should the consultation include to select the appropriate haircut for the client?
What type of cape should be used for a wet haircut? Why?
Should you use a sanex or a towel when draping?

36. COMBS Styling or cutting comb is also called an all-purpose comb.
Barber comb is used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears-over-comb technique.
Wide-tooth comb is mainly used to detangle hair.
Sectioning clips are available in a variety of shapes, styles, and sizes.
Figure 11-45

37. HAIRCUTTING SHEARS
Shears are used to cut blunt or straight lines as well as for other techniques.
The terms shears and scissors may be used interchangeably.
Figure 11-32

38. Parts of Shears
The size of shears the you use is determined by the size of your hand.
Never use the same shears on people as you do on manikins
Thinning shears have the same parts

39. Parts of the Razor Straight razor Razor Shaper Feather Tondeo
Demo texturizing and cutting with the Feather

40. Holding your tools
Ring finger goes in the finger grip of the still blade
Thumb goes in the finger grip of the moving blade
Practice opening and closing. Practice comb & cutting the air

41. Holding your Tools Razor is held cutting blade up
Hold the razor so the handle is higher than the shank
Cut on top of the subsection
Keep the hair wet and consistent tension

42. Proper Body position Always face your work Weight on both feet
Use the hydraulic chair
Picture is cutting-over-the-fingers
Razor, you cut behind the fingers
Sometimes you will cut below the fingers
Demo body position
Pal-to-palm cutting
Razor cutting

43. Safety in Haircutting They’re sharper than you think!
Always palm the shears or any tool you’re using
Don’t cut past the 2nd knuckle
Take care around the ears, bend if necessary
Balance the shears on your finger. see Pg 300
Don’t cut past the knuckle
Demo using the index finger of the left hand

44. SUMMARY It is very important to develop strong haircutting skills.
A good haircut serves as the foundation for numerous other services.
We have the relevance of understanding the anatomy of the head, elevations, angles, and degrees.
The five characteristics of hair (density, texture, wave pattern, hairlines, and growth pattern) play an important role in your ability to create a quality haircut.
As in all services, it is important to practice proper sanitation and disinfection procedures for haircutting services.
There is much more to learning how to cut hair.

45. activity
Keyword Match
Random Word picker

46. Lab Assignment
Cornrow your manikin with vertical partings, cornrowing the hair straight back.
Like this OR

47. Lab Assignment Cornrow the half the head
straight back and curl the other half in spiral curls .
See picture

48. Types of Haircuts *Blunt cut *Long Layered cut *Uniform Layered
Graduated cut
Clipper cut

49. BASIC HAIRCUTS

50. Learning/Content Objectives
Students will list the steps to a blunt haircut.
Students will list the steps to a 180o haircut.
Students will list tips to help ensure a good haircut for every client.

51. BLUNT or ONE–LENGTH CUT
Figure 11-26

52. BLUNT HAIRCUT
This is also known as a one-length haircut, zero-elevation cut, or no-elevation cut.
All hair comes to one hanging level, forming a weight line or area.
Stationary guide is used.
This is a good cut for fine, thin hair.
Figure 11-61

53. Blunt Haircut 4 sections – Use the apex
Stationary guideline – all the hair is combed to the same place to be cut
Demo sectioning
What’s the difference between a section and a subsection?

54. Blunt or 0o No elevation, don’t lift the hair
The guideline can be horizontal, diagonal or rounded
Good for finer or thinner hair
Cut the manikin at each step as the presentation

55. 0o haircut
Using the comb to hold the hair still while your thumb does the work is a good way to maintain that stationary guide.

56. 0o Cut
Continue establishing the guideline from right to left on the first subsection.
The density of the hair will determine the size of the subsection.

57. Blunt Cut - 0o
Continue working up the back of the head, alternating from right to left
Don’t use a lot of tension
Watch out for irregular growth patters in the crown

58. Blunt Cut Take a horizontal parting above the ear
Comb the hair down and allow for natural protrusion of the ear
Allow the hair to hang in a natural fall

59. Blunt Cut 0o Repeat on the opposite side
Remember your shears will be pointing toward the back when you are working on the right side
Hold your comb parallel to the floor
Show how to do it without using the comb

60. 0o Cut Check the length on both sides
When you cut horizontally, you check vertically
The job isn’t over until the cleanup is done
Demo this at the same time

61. 0o Cut
Blow drying your cut after you finish is the best way to see mistakes
Check out some blunt cut variations on pg308

62. TIPS FOR BLUNT HAIRCUTS
Use minimal or no tension.
Work with natural growth patterns.
Comb section twice before cutting.
Maintain even moisture.
Take precautions around ears.

63. SUMMARY
We have learned about one of the simplest and most popular haircuts you will be expected to perform on a regular basis in the salon.
The four basic types of haircuts are blunt, graduated, layers, and long layers.
Cross-checking is parting the hair in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line and shape.

64. Guidelines
In the 180o cut, the hair at the apex is a stationary guideline and all hair is combed up to it & cut.
Which haircut would I be performing if I used a horizontal guideline at the nape?
Which haircut would I be performing if I used a vertical line at the nape or the side?
How about if I used a diagonal guideline?

65. LONG LAYERED HAIRCUT This haircut is cut at a 180-degree elevation.
It gives volume to styles.
It can be combined with other cuts.
Layers increase from short to longer toward the perimeter.
Figure 11-64

66. Long Layers Part off the hair into 5 sections as shown
Start at top of crown
Take a ½” thick horizontal subsection, hold straight up and cut at desired length
This becomes your stationary guide
Use tip of nose or chin as length guide

67. 180o Cut Pull subsequent subsections back to guide and cut
Continue to front hairline

68. Long layered Cut When top is complete crosscheck it vertically
Your initial guide should be the shortest part and the hair gets longer as it goes toward the front

69. 180o Cut
Taking ½” thick horizontal subsections, comb hair up to guide at crown and cut
Repeat on right side

70. Long Layered Cut
At the top of the left rear section part off a ½”thick horizontal subsection and comb up to guide and cut
Cut straight across
Work down to nape using the stationary guide at crown

71. 180o Cut Repeat on right rear section Blow dry and style
Cleanup and sanitation

72. INCREASED LAYERED CUT – (180 DEGREES) REVERSE ELEVATION
Part hair into 5 sections
Establish guideline at the highest point (crown)
Part the hair horizontally across top to begin guideline
Part horizontally on the right side and bring hair to guideline.
Repeat on left side.
Take 1/4th panel in top, bring to guideline
Bring the hair in the left back to the guideline. Repeat on the other side
Check haircut.

73. Haircutting Tips
Check out figure on pg It’s a man’s 90o cut but you don’t round out the corners. Leave the squareness
Cut the interior first on layered cuts
Don’t cut thin hair too short
Don’t cut coarse hair shorter than 3”

74. GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS
Take consistent and clean partings.
Take care with crown and neckline.
Take care around ears.
Use consistent tension.
Pay attention to head position.
Maintain even moisture.
Always work with the guideline.

75. GENERAL HAIRCUTTING TIPS
Always cross-check the haircut by parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it to check for precision of line.
Use mirror to see elevation.
Stand in front to check side length.
Remember curly hair shrinkage; it will shrink anywhere from ½ to 2 inches.
Maintain correct body and hand posture.

76. LET’S REVIEW Which haircut has 0 elevation?
Which haircut is held at a 180 degree elevation?
Which haircut requires 4 sections when cutting?
After you have finished the haircut, what comes before blow drying the hair?

77. THINNING SHEARS Used to remove bulk from hair
Also called texturizing shears, tapering shears, or notching shears

78. RAZORS Used when a softer effect is desired on hair ends
Can be used for entire haircuts, to thin, and to texturize areas
Can be used with or without guards
Figure 11-43a

79. CLIPPERS AND EDGERS
Clippers are used for creating short tapers, short haircuts, fades, flat tops, or to shave hair off right to the scalp
Edgers are a smaller version of clippers; mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around ears.
Figure 11-44

80. SANITATION AND DISINFECTION PROCEDURES
Wash hands with soap and water.
Sweep up cut hair and dispose of properly before proceeding with service.
Drape client properly.
Sanitize combs, brushes, shears, clips, and other implements after each haircut.
Replace blade in razor prior to each client.
Discard blades in puncture-proof container
Maintain shears properly.
Sanitize workstation after each haircutting service.

81. Uniform Layered Cut Part manikin from forehead to nape in exact middle
Take a subsection ½” on either side of center part

82. Uniform layered Cut - 90o
Begin at crown, comb section straight out from the head
Keep fingers parallel to the head and cut to desired length
Work forward to hairline, taking a little of the previously cut hair each time
This is a traveling guide

83. 90o Cut Continue cutting guideline from front to nape
Round off any corners you might see
Always keep your fingers parallel to the head and hold hair straight out

84. Uniform Layered Cut
For ease in handling, separate the front from the back by parting at the apex.
Continue in the back by taking vertical panels from center to right and center to left
See figure on 319
11-131a

85. 90o Cut This is a schematic of the ________you will take in the back
This is the cut you will do for______ ______
Keep your sections______
Use a small amount of the previous section as a______

86. 90o Cut This is a schematic of the partings you will take in the back
This is the cut you will do for State Board
Keep your sections small
Use a small amount of the previous section as a guide

87. Uniform Layered Cut
Continue to the left side of the back starting at the center again
Remember, watch your finger position
Continue to the back of the ear

88. 90o Cut Crosscheck your entire back
Picture shows last section being cut at the back of the ear

89. 90o Cut/Uniform Layered Cut
Part off the top from the recession area at outside of brow to the crown See Figure on pg. 320
Clip your sides out of the way
Cut the top using vertical partings

90. 90o Cut
Use a small amount of the hair in the back and the first subsection you cut on either side of the part
Crosscheck the top using horizontal partings
Hold at 90o straight out from the head

91. Uniform layered Cut
On the right side, take a vertical panel right at ear, using some of the previously cut hair from behind the ear
Continue with a traveling guide to the front hairline
Repeat on opposite side and crosscheck

92. 90o Cut Notice soft perimeter and rounded shape
Blow dry and style your manikin
Cleanup and sanitize

93. Two 90o haircuts styled

94. Tips for Curly Hair
Curly hair shrinks more when it dries. For every ½” you cut, the hair will shrink 1”.
Don’t use tension, comb with the wide tooth comb
Elevate less
Keep lengths longer because curly gets big
The razor is a no-no Pg. 325

95. Cutting Bangs
The fringe area is from the outer corners of the eyes to the top of the crown or the apex
Comb the hair, see how it falls
To layer, hold entire section straight up and cut
Cut at eyelashes for longer bangs and eyebrows for shorter bangs. Use a curved line
Demo razor cutting and some texturizing techniques with the razor and how to cut behind the fingers. Use short strokes to remove bulk and long strokes to remove length. Hold and cut at a 45o angle. Always use the guard.
Demo slide cutting and shear-over-comb. Point-cutting, Notching, free-hand notching, slithering, (used on wigs), slicing, and carving, (done with thinning shears). Demo more weight reduction with thinning shears. Demo reducing weight with the razor.

96. Haircutting Tips
For long layered cuts don’t cut the top too short. Leaving it a little longer will keep the hair thicker at the bottom
Figures & on pg 324

97. Angles and elevations
Which cut that you have learned is this?

98. Stop here! Activity- Keyword Match

99. Graduated Cut - 45o Start by parting the hair into 6 sections.
Front hair line to crown, sides, back and nape.
Demo a graduated cut with the phone book
Start with 6 sections

100. 45o
Start your cut at the center nape, just like a blunt cut

101. Graduated Cut
Work from the center out to the right
Center to the left

102. 45o Cut Use horizontal parting, pull down an inch wide subsection
Make a vertical parting, hold the hair at a 45o angle and cut
Continue to the right with vertical sections

103. Graduated Cut
Continue to the left, being careful to maintain the same 45o angle
Complete entire occipital section
You are using an interior traveling guideline now

104. 45o Cut Continue up the head to just under the crown
Maintain the length at the crown by holding the hair at 90o and cut throughout the entire top
Refer to Figure on pg. 313

105. Graduated Cut Establish guide at side with a parting above the ear
Cut a small 1” wide section in front of the ear, using the corner back as your guide.

106. 45o Cut Establish a guide on opposite side of head in the same way
Check that both sections are the same length

107. Graduated Cut
Establish a curved ½” thick subsection following hairline from the ear back to the nape
Repeat on opposite side
Hold the hair with no tension.
Note that the hair is held at a slight asngle

108. Graduated Cut
Establish a curved ½” thick subsection following hairline from the ear back to the nape
Repeat on opposite side
Hold the hair with no tension
Note that the hair is held at a slight asngle

109. 45o Cut
Establish a horizontal section above the ear

110. Graduated Cut Part a ½ “ vertical subsection
Using the underlying previously cut hair.
Include some hair from the nape
Maintain that 45o angle
The top is held at 90o just like in the back and cut to meet hair beneath. Repeat on opposite side

111. 45o Cut
Check to see if your sides ______in length, by holding them at 90o
Try to maintain the same _______45o to the top, then 90o on both sides.

112. 45o Cut
Check to see if your sides match in length, by holding them at 90o
Try to maintain the same anglel 45o to the top, then 90o on both sides.

113. Graduated Cut
Create a guide subsection at the front hairline about ½”wide or thick
Use the brows, nose or chin as your length guide.

114. 45O Cut Connect the fringe with the sides Use a low elevation
Check both sides for evenness

115. GRADUATED/45o CUT
Finish top by taking vertical subsections parallel to the center part
Hold the hair up at a 90o angle
Check your cut when completed

116. Graduated Cut 45o
Blow dry and style
Cleanup and sanitation

117. Graduated Cut
A variation of the graduated cut with bangs

118. Clipper Cutting Stand in front of the section you are cutting
Move to back of ear bending of out of your way
Use a clipper over comb to reduce weight in this area
Repeat on opposite side
Demo using edger to create line around ear

119. Clipper cutting Use edgers to define hairline at nape
Move up the head, holding comb at slight angle and use previously cut hair as your guide
Use fluid motions and don’t worry about speed yet

120. Clipper Cutting
Determine and cut guide at crown. Comb the hair forward at side & measure distance between brows and hairline
Move toward the front pulling back to your guide and cut

121. Clipper cutting
Shorten and shape the hair at the nape and on sides as needed
Clean up around ears as needed

122. Clipper Cutting
Use clipper-over-comb to reduce bulk around ears

123. Clipper Cutting
START AT TOP OF CROWN OR THE APEX

124. Clipper Cutting
Measure distance between brows and hairline to determine length at crown
Cut the top by pulling hair back to your guide at crown

125. Clipper cutting Consult your client about length of sideburn or
Measure length of jaw and half the distance, pivot finger straight up and that point is the best sideburn length

126. Clipper Cutting Finished cut Cleanup and sanitize
Demo clipper oiling and cleaning