1. History of Fashion

2. 1900’s News of the Times –Changing role of women –Women were in politics, joined clubs and went to college –Women went to work –Henry Ford produced the Model T

3. 1900’s Fashion of the Times –Pinched- in waistlines, exaggerated by tight fitting corsets, leg of mutton sleeves, and high necklines. –The “Gibson Girl Look” floor length skirts and shirtwaist blouses. –Hats were very important. Decorated with feathers, ribbons, etc. –Gloves were very important for every outfit. –Handbags were small and femine

4. 1900’s Fashion of the Times –Men – suits cuts were straight but fairly loose –Lace up boots / spats (fabric coverings) –Hats were very important –Casual consisted of knickers, blazers of tweed with shoes and a hat. –Children's clothes looked their parents.

5. 1900’s Designers of the Times –Paul Poiret – 1903 – World War I freed women from corsets and designed loose fitting clothes. –Paquin- She never made two dresses alike, first women to achieve importance in couture. She designed lavish evening wear..many times with fir. –Jeanne Lanvin – started as a milliner and then went into couture. Known for youthful look and wedding dresses with metallic embroidery or intricate stitching

6. 1910’s News of the Times –Outbreak of World War I –Women were gaining independence and going to college –Because of the war women entered the workforce that were previously men’s jobs. –Silent Movies

7. 1910’s Fashion of the Times –Mix of fashionable and functional –Hobble shirt with a slit front showed a women ‘s leg for the first time. (Poiret’s) –Hobble shirt was worn with a wide tunic –Straight skirts and simple lines –Tailored suits for daytime –Narrow hemlines

8. 1910’s Fashion of the Times –Shoes and hosiery became very important –Ensembles (Dress and jacket to match) –Fur was used to line and trim coats. –Parasols were important as well as small handbags –Men Narrow lapels and straight trousers –Children continued to be replicas of adult attire.

9. 1910’s Designers of the Times –Fortuny – Delphos gown was famous and it was made of small narrow vertical pleats permanently placed in silk by a secret process. –Nina Ricci – designed graceful, elegant fashions –Madeleine Vionnet – cut fabric on the bias, this eliminated the need for fastenings of any kind on the dress. Cowl and halter necklines. Opened her couture home in Paris in 1912 and then closed it because of the was… reopened in 1918 Madeleine Vionnet bias cut dress

10. 1920’s News of the Times –Alcoholic beverages were forbidden –Speakeasies – nightclubs that sold illegal liquor –Music – Jazz –End of silent movies –Prototype of Mickey Mouse was developed –Women had the right to vote –1925 F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote The Great Gatsby –B F Goodrich registered the trademark for the zipper –United States first U.S. Senator –Charles Lindbergh made his first solo transatlantic airplane flight in 1927 –By the end of the 1920’s, frivolity, glamour, and excitement were replaced by anxiety and fear created by the Wall Street crash of 1929.

11. 1920’s Fashion of the Times –Very different from the early 1900’s, elegance was the key word. –Optimism due to the end of World War 1 –Fashionable women were looking for new innovative styles –Skirts became shorter –Flapper dress- knee length hemlines, long torso silhouettes with ruffled flounces. –Layers of chains on necklines. –Close-fitting hats called cloches

12. 1920’s Fashion of the Times –Short hair styles –Beading and fringe decorated eveningwear. –Fur wraps –Stylish women wore silk dresses under coats, the jacket lining matched the dress. –Sportswear was introduced – knickers, culottes and blazers –Men – bell bottoms, flared trousers, jacket waistlines were nipped-in, shoulders were softer, sportswear was also important such as knickers and polo shirts –Children's clothing continued to echo adult styles. Girls were shorter, less restrictive silhouettes, while boys wore baggy tweed pants (knickers)

13. 1920’s Designers of the Times –Coco Chanel –one of the world’s greatest innovators, remains a legend for her taste, personal style, and dedication to perfection. At the beginning of World War II she closed her couture house, at the age of 71 she re-opened the house. –Jean Patou –Flapper dress in 1925 with shorter skirts, dropped waistlines, and uneven hems. He was the master of change. In 1929 he brought back the waistline to the normal position

14. 1930’s News of the Times –Depression /stock market crash –Franklin Delano Roosevelt was elected as president. Hitler’s popularity increased in Europe. –Women could not afford what they could in the 1920’s so they tried to update what they already had. –In the middle of the 1930’s, Roosevelt’s New Deal generated optimism and fashion once again was on the move. – Nylon was developed. –Film Industry was booming (musicals and comedies) –Fred Astaire, Ginger Rogers, and Clark Gable were famous stars. –Clark Gable appeared in It Happened One Night without an undershirt and the sales of undershirts dramatically dropped. –1939 Gone With The Wind Hitler

15. 1930’s Fashion of the Times –Quite different from the 1920’s –An era of elegance emerged –Hemlines dropped to midcalf during the day and floor length for evening wear. –Bias Cut (Vionnet) was a popular silhouette strapless necklines and back sweeping trains adorned many gowns. –Suits made a come back this time with padded shoulders and shorter jackets. –Colors were subdued with black, gray, green, and brown. –Fabrics were soft with crepes, jerseys, satins, and soft wools. –Men’s wear took a looser look. Shoulders were broadened and padded, trousers were loose, straight, pleated, and cuffed. –Big News was the popularity of SPECTATOR SPORTSWEAR –By the end of the decade, lavish clothing gave way to more practical designs.

16. 1930’s

17. Designers of the Times –Chanel was still in the forefront of couture. –Mainbocher – designed the Duchess of Winsor’s wedding dress in 1936. –Madame Gres brought draping to a new height –Elsa Schiaparelli changed the shape of the figure with shoulder pads, avant- garde sweaters with unusual motifs. She used the first zipper on pockets in 1930. Her collections were always considered elegant and chic. –Vera Maxwell designed the weekend wardrobe in 1935, consisting of collarless tweed and gray flannel jackets, a flannel tennis skirt, a longer pleated tweed skirt and cuffed flannel trousers.

18. 1940’s News of the Times –War against Germany, Italy, and Japan –Women again worked in factories –Fabric was in short supply (Order L- 85 restricted the amount of fabric used for a garment such as number of buttons and pockets) –Nylon could not be used for clothing it was used for parachutes, tents, and ropes for war. –Wool, silk and rubber – short supply –Famous fashion houses of Paris closed their doors. –American designers were given their first major opportunity in fashion. –End of the 1940’s clothing manufactures were expanding –War ended in 1945 –Television

19. 1940’s Fashion of the Times –Padded shoulders and shorter skirts –Designers created sportswear and separates that could be mixed and matched –The war ended and Paris repositioned itself with the New Look – rounded shoulders, full bustlines, tiny waists accentuated by full skirts. –Bikinis made their debut. –Men’s wear, lapels were narrower and single breasted styles. A casual approach to fashion with contrasting sports coats and trousers quickly became popular –Children’s fashions were more casual. Carefree styles for girls included puffed sleeves and flared skirts. J –Jeans were slowly being accepted but only for riding bikes and leisure activities –Oversized sweaters were call Sloppy Joes –Boys wore T-shirts, sport shirts, and styles that were inspired by the military

20. 1940’s Designers of the Times –Americans joined the ranks of the French as world leaders in fashion. –Norman Norell used simple lines, rich fabrications and sequined gowns. He also designed jumpsuits and pantsuits. –Pauline Tigere used luxurious fabrics, rich weeks, and prints in a very simple, intricate cuts –Christian Dior’s New Look in 1947 was met with wild enthusiasm. Year after year he captured the fashion world’s attention A-lines and Y-lines –Balenciaga was a master tailor and dressmaker. Norman Norell Christian Dior

21. 1950’s News of the Times –Korean War 1950 – 1953 –Dwight Eisenhower was elected president. –In England, Elizabeth II became queen in 1952 –Acrylic and Polyester fibers were created. –The term “teenager” came into general use in the mid 1950’s. –Teen movie star idols included James Dean and Marlon Brando. –Elvis Presley’s popularity soared. –Economy was great and the U.S. dominated world manufacturing. –$ was available for discretionary and luxury purchases. –Men became interested in fashion, opening new markets for designers and manufacturers. –Civil Rights movement was sparked by demonstrations in 1955. –Sputnik, the first space shuttle, was launched by the Russians in 1957. –Television became more widely available in homes. –More and more women began to enter the job market in careers once reserved for men.

22. 1950’s Fashion of the Times –Extremely diverse –Hemlines were long and short depending on the year and designer –First half of the decade was dedicated to elegance. –Tailored clothing was important for daytime; full skirted strapless evening dresses were appropriate for special occasions. –Sportswear, including slacks, pedal pushers, shorts, and halters were favorites. –Mixing and matching new outfits was popular –Mid 1950’s new style on college campuses reflected a laid-back, nonaggressive way of life. –Beatnik look was born –Unisex fashions. Leotards and tapered pants were the rage –Men – charcoal gray suits with narrow lapels and natural shoulders, pants were narrow –Madras was a popular fabric for sport coats and shorts being worn for casual wear –Leather jackets were very popular for teens –Teenage girls wore full skirts often made of felt with poodles and over stiffened crinolines. –As the 1960 approached, styles never seen before would surface and g ain immediate acceptance.

23. 1950’s Audrey Hepburn

24. 1950’s Designers of the Times –Still popular from the 1940’s Balenciaga, Dior, and Bonnie Cashin –New faces such as Hubert de Givenchy – noted for his masterly cut learned from Balenciaga. Known for elegant evening wear –Charles James know for intricate cuts, precise seaming, batwing styles and asymmetrical shapes. –The stage was set for the 1960’s and the emergence of such designers as Mary Quant and Yves Saint Laurent, who first designed for the house of Dior in the 1950’s Hubert de Givenchy

25. 1960’s News of the Times –John F Kennedy was elected President in 1960. –U.S. was in the race for space. –John Glenn was the first American to orbit the Earth, and Apollo 11 the first capsule to land on the moon in 1969 –John F Kennedy was assassinated and President Lyndon B Johnson took over and guided the Civil Rights Act of 1964 –The second civil Rights Act passed in 1965 that granted every citizen the right to vote. –Despite the passage of these bills, inequalities persisted and riots occurred in many cities. –Both Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King were assassinated in 1968 –Protest of the Vietnam war –Beatlemania was born with the popularity of the Beatles, –1969 / Woodstock

26. 1960’s Fashion of the Times –Mod style –Controversy in the 1960’s was over skirt lengths. The shortest was miniskirt. –Boots became a standard component to the miniskirt. –First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy became an important fashion role model with the Chanel Suit and Pillbox hat –Dress silhouetted included an empire waistline, A line or straight cut shapers that were loose from shoulder to hem. –Confusion about the skirt length made women wear pants for all occasions. –Pants suits were made popular by the mid sixty’s. –Jeans and denim were now becoming a fashion statement

27. 1960’s Designers of the Times Mary Quant – mod look Courreges – Go-Go boots Pierre Cardin – Nude look, space look Anne Klein – Geoffrey Beene Halston Pierre Cardin Halston Anne Klein

28. 1970’s News of the Times President Nixon visited China in 1972 Resigned as President in 1974 Jimmy Carter was elected in 1976 Bicentennial Iranian seizure of 63 American hostages

29. 1970’s Fashion of the Times People were given choices Midi and Maxi skirts were introduced. Hotpants and platform shoes Flared legged trousers Granny clothing was popular Evening pants shown with tunics Unisex clothes Denim was available for everyone. Designer jeans were a status symbol for men. Leisure suit for men Overall a much more casual look!

30. 1970’s Designers of the Times Pret-a-porter (ready to wear) started to thrive in France Giorgio Armani - Italy Betsey Johnson Calvin Klein Norma Kamali Ralph Lauren Gianfranco Ferre

31. 1980’s News of the Times Ronald Reagan as President in 1980 Princess Diana married Prince Charles of England and had a major impact on the bridal industry. Women’s role in the workplace grew, some into executive positions once reserved for men. “Yuppies” – upward mobile young professionals. Challenger disaster in 1986.

32. 1980’s con’t News of the Times George Bush Became president in 1986. The Berlin Wall came down. Tiananmen Square massacre. MTV was born. Dallas was a popular TV show. AID became a world-wide epidemic. Animal rights activists fought against the use of fur. Global concerns were growing regarding the environment.

33. 1980’s Fashion of the Times Emphasis on elegant evening wear Pouf skirt was shown in Paris Miniskirts returned Licensing agreements bloomed. Physical fitness craze Movie :“Flashdance” inspired new trends. Warm-up suit were acceptable to be worn for casual wear. “Sneakers” were now called athletic shoes.

34. 1980’s Fashion of the Times Youth worn jeans, sweaters and athletic shoes. (Adults followed) Women adopted the “Power Suit” to gain respect in the workplace. Skirts were worn at all lengths. Madonna – inspired bustier Lyrca/ Spandex was not only for exercise wear. Torn jeans became a fashion statement.

35. Adrienne Vittadini Claude Montanna Tommy HilfigerGianni Versace Perry Ellis Donna Karan Tommy Hilfiger Christian Lacroix 1980 Designers of the times….

36. 1990’s News of the Times Soviet union collapse 1991 Gulf War inspired styles with flags Economic recession made consumers more cautious. Bankruptcy of Macy’s Bill Clinton elected President in 1992. Rapid growth in technology North American Free Trade Agreement. Lion King and Pocahontas O.J. Simpson trial Republicans controlled both the House and the Senate (First time in 40 years) Hong Kong was returned to China. Terrorist bombings caused concern. President Clinton’s affair with Monica Lewinsky. Clinton became the 2 nd U.S. President to be impeached.

37. 1990’s Fashion of the Times Platform shoes reappeared Athletic shoes were replaced with Doc Martins Grunge look Baggy pants and t-shirts exemplified the “Hip Hop” style In the middle of the decade the look was “retro”. Dress-down Fridays had an impact on the industry. Baseball caps were worn by everyone. Trucker hats

38. 1990’s Designers of the Times Lagerfeld Donna Karan Bill Blass Paul Gaultier Ralph Lauren Isaac Mizrahi – produced from evening wear to raincoats Todd Oldham – simple shapes Tracy Reese Nicole Miller Jil Sanders Marc Jacobs presented Louis Vuitton Tom Ford presented Gucci Donatell Versace presented Verace after her brothers death. Tom Ford - Gucci Isaac Mizrahi Jill Sanders