1. Textiles and Production Back to Table of Contents

2. Textiles and Production 2 Chapter 6 Textiles and Production Textiles and Fashion Making Textiles

3. Textiles and Production 3 Chapter Objectives Discuss the fiber properties that determine appropriate use and quality of fabrics. Identify the main natural fibers. Identify the main manufactured fibers. Explain the importance of fabric in fashion. Discuss how synthetic fibers are produced. Identify the two primary methods for making fibers into fabrics.

4. Textiles and Production 4 Fabrics and Fibers The basic building blocks for all fabrics are fibers. fabrics long pieces of cloth Section 6.1 fibers thin, hairlike strands that are the basic units used to make fabrics and textile products

5. Fashion and Fibers Section 6.1 Characteristics of Fibers Different fibers have specific properties that affect the characteristics of fabric. AppearanceStrengthAbsorbency WarmthShrinkagePrice 5

6. Textiles and Production 6 Fabrics and Fibers Yarns are spun from fibers and are used to make fabric. yarns uninterrupted threads of textile fibers that are ready to be turned into fabrics Section 6.1

7. Fashion and Fibers Section 6.1 Types of Fibers ManufacturedNatural PlantAnimalSynthetic Chemical compounds derived from petroleum or natural gas Cellulosic Made from plants combined with chemicals Leathers and furs are not fibers, but they are used in the apparel industry and are categorized with the Natural fibers. 7

8. Textiles and Production 8 Natural Fibers Natural fibers are a main product in the fashion industry. natural fibers textile fibers made from plants or animals Section 6.1

9. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Types of Natural Fibers ProteinCellulosic Derived from: Cell walls of certain plants Examples: Cotton, linen Also used to create acetate and rayon Derived from: Animals and Insects Examples: Wool and silk 9

10. Textiles and Production 10 Natural Fibers Cotton is the most important textile fiber used by the fashion industry. Cotton comes from the bolls, or seed pods, of cotton plants. Section 6.1

11. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Cotton DisadvantagesAdvantages Comfortable Absorbent Retains color Dyes and prints well Washable Strong Drapes well Easy to handle and sew Inexpensive Shrinks in hot water Wrinkles easily Weakened by perspiration and sun Burns easily Affected by mildew 11

12. Textiles and Production 12 Natural Fibers Linen is a fabric made from fibers inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen is the oldest-known cellulosic fiber and dates back to the Stone Age, which ended about 5,000 years ago. Section 6.1

13. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Linen DisadvantagesAdvantages Strong Comfortable Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Absorbent Dyes and prints well Resists dirt and stains Durable Withstands high heat Lint-free Wrinkles easily Can be expensive Shrinks Burns easily Affected by mildew and perspiration Ravels Holds creases Shines if ironed 13

14. Textiles and Production 14 Natural Fibers Wool fibers come from the sheared, or shaved hair, of sheep or lambs. There is a high demand for wool products. The term wool can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat. Wool can also be recycled and wool that hasn’t been recycled is known as pure, virgin, or 100 percent wool. Section 6.1

15. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Wool DisadvantagesAdvantages Warm Lightweight Wrinkle-resistant Absorbent Dyes well Comfortable Durable Creases well Easy to tailor Recyclable Affected by moths Shrinks with heat and moisture Needs special care, dry cleaning Absorbs odors Scratchy on skin Weakens when wet Harmed by bleach, perspiration 15

16. Textiles and Production 16 Natural Fibers Silkworms spin cocoons, which are protective silk envelopes wrapped around silkworms in the early stage of growth. Cocoons are used to make silk fiber, the only natural-filament fiber. It can take as many as 500 cocoons to create the fabric to make one blouse. filament a very long, fine, continuous thread Section 6.1

17. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Silk DisadvantagesAdvantages Soft Drapes well Dyes and prints well Very strong Lightweight Resists soil, mildew, and moths Comfortable Absorbent Expensive Needs special care, dry cleaning Stains with water Yellows with age Weakened by perspiration, sun, soap Attacked by insects, such as silverfish 17

18. Textiles and Production 18 Natural Fibers Leather, a tough, flexible material, is made by preserving animal hides, or skins, through a process called tanning. The surface of leather can be processed, using special equipment to make suede. The primary source of leather is cattle, or cows and steers, used in the meat-packing industry. Section 6.1

19. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Leather and Synthetics DisadvantagesAdvantages Durable Strong Flexible Comfortable Warm Scarce Expensive 19

20. Textiles and Production 20 Natural Fibers Fur is the soft, hairy coat of an animal. Some consumer groups advocate discontinuing the use of fur products,, because it is controversial to kill animals. This has resulted in the production of faux, or imitation, fur. Section 6.1

21. Natural Fibers Section 6.1 Fur DisadvantagesAdvantages Durable Soft Flexible Warm Scarce Expensive 21

22. Textiles and Production 22 MANUFACTURED FIBERS When first introduced, manufactured fibers comprised about 1 percent of textiles. Manufactured fibers are now used in about ¾ of American textile mills.

23. Textiles and Production 23 Manufactured Fibers There are two types of manufactured fibers. manufactured fibers fibers created by a manufacturing process of any substance that is not a fiber Section 6.1 Cellulosic (from plants) Noncellulosic or synthetic (from petrochemical products

24. Textiles and Production 24 Manufactured Fibers Commercial production of rayon began in 1910. Rayon is composed of regenerated cellulose, which is derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. Section 6.1

25. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Rayon DisadvantagesAdvantages Soft and comfortable Drapes well Highly absorbent Dyes and prints well No static or pilling Inexpensive Colorfast May be washable Wrinkles easily unless treated Low resiliency Heat sensitive Susceptible to mildew Stretches Weakens when wet Fabric shrinks if washed May need dry cleaning 25

26. Textiles and Production 26 Manufactured Fibers Acetate is a cellulosic fiber made from wood pulp or cotton linters. Designers use acetate because of its luxurious feel and draping qualities. Acetate fabric is used for linings in coats and jackets, however, because of new fabric developments, it is now used in apparel also. Section 6.1

27. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Acetate DisadvantagesAdvantages Luxurious appearance Crisp (texture) soft hand Wide range of colors; dyes and prints well Drapes well Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying No pilling, little static Requires dry cleaning Weak Heat sensitive Poor abrasion resistance Dissolved by nail polish remover (acetone) 27

28. Textiles and Production 28 Manufactured Fibers Nylon was invented in 1938 by DuPont and was the first synthetic fiber. Nylon is made from petrochemicals. Because of its insulating properties, nylon is used in ski and snow apparel, windbreakers and raincoats. It is also used in home furnishings such as rugs and draperies. Nylon is also used in luggage, umbrellas, and tents. Section 6.1

29. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Nylon DisadvantagesAdvantages Lightweight Exceptional strength Abrasion resistant Easy to wash Resists shrinkage and wrinkles Resilient, pleat retentive Fast drying, low moisture absorbency Can be pre-colored or dyed in a wide range of colors Resists damage from oil and many chemicals Insulating properties Static and pilling Poor resistance to sunlight Low absorbency Picks up oils and dyes in wash Heat sensitive 29

30. Textiles and Production 30 Manufactured Fibers Acrylic was originally used for blankets and sweaters because it resembles wool. Today year-round sweaters and socks are made with acrylic. Acrylic blends well with polyester and rayon. Section 6.1

31. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Acrylic DisadvantagesAdvantages Lightweight, soft, warm, wool-like hand Dyes to bright colors Machine washable, quick drying Resilient, retains shape, resists shrinkage and wrinkles Wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance Excellent pleat retention Resists moths, oil, chemicals Low absorbency Develops static Pilling Heat sensitive Weak Dissolved by nail polish remover (acetone) 31

32. Textiles and Production 32 Manufactured Fibers Polyester was first produced commercially in 1953 and is the most widely sold synthetic fiber in the world. Because it is the best wash-and-wear fiber, it may be the most used in fashion production. It became so overused that consumers grew tired of it. However, when polyester is blended with other dry-clean-only fibers, the durability of the blended fabric improves. Section 6.1

33. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Polyester DisadvantagesAdvantages Strong Crisp, but soft hand Resists stretching and shrinkage Washable or dry-cleanable Quick drying Resilient, resists wrinkles Abrasion resistant Resistant to most chemicals Colorfast Strong, durable Dyes well Holds oily stains Low absorbency, difficult stain removal Static and pilling problems 33

34. Textiles and Production 34 Manufactured Fibers When spandex was developed, chemists were looking for a substitute for rubber. Spandex dramatically changed the swimwear and foundations (underwear) industry. Spandex can stretch over 500 percent without breaking. The brand name for spandex is Lycra ®. Section 6.1

35. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Spandex DisadvantagesAdvantages Lightweight Retains original shape Abrasion resistant Stronger than rubber Soft, smooth, supple Resists body oils, perspiration lotions, detergents No static or pilling Whites yellow with age Heat sensitive Harmed by chlorine bleach Nonabsorbent 35

36. Textiles and Production 36 Manufactured Fibers A new trend in fashion is the use of microfiber fabrics. Fabrics made from microfibers provide gentle drape and incredible softness. Section 6.1

37. Textiles and Production 37 Manufactured Fibers Microfiber technology produces fibers that weigh less than 1.0 denier. denier a unit of measurement used to identify the thickness or diameter of a fiber Section 6.1 Two times finer than silk Three times finer than cotton Eight times finer than wool 100 times finer than a human hair

38. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Microfibers DisadvantagesAdvantages Extremely drapable Very soft, luxurious hand Washable or dry cleanable Shrink-resistant Strong Insulates against wind, rain, and cold Heat sensitive 38

39. Textiles and Production 39 Manufactured Fibers Lyocell is the newest of the cellulosic manufactured fibers. Its trade name is Tencel ®. The fiber is made with wood pulp from trees grown in managed and replanted forests. The chemicals used in production are recycled, and lyocell is biodegradable. Section 6.1

40. Manufactured Fibers Section 6.1 Lyocell DisadvantagesAdvantages Absorbent Biodegradable Strong Resists sunlight, aging, and abrasion Susceptible to mildew 40

41. Textiles and Production 41 Fiber Trade Associations With the development of synthetic fibers in the 20 th century, natural fibers industries have had to compete to maintain their markets. Natural fiber trade associations have formed to promote and market their products. The leading natural fiber trade associations include: Section 6.1 Cotton Incorporated National Cotton Council Woolmark Americas, Inc. Mohair Council of America

42. Textiles and Production 42 Fabric’s Influence on Fashion The cut and style of garments have always been determined by fiber and fabric. Fabric will continue to influence fashion as availability and technology change. Section 6.1

43. Textiles and Production 43 What are the four main natural fibers? What are the primary advantages and disadvantages of leather/suede? What are three manufactured fibers that are cellulosic? 1. 2. 3. Section 6.1 6.1

44. Textiles and Production 44 Textile Processes: Past and Present The first modern factories for natural fiber textiles were built during the Industrial Revolution of the 18 th century in England. Section 6.2

45. Textile Processes: Past and Present Section 6.2 Eli Whitney invented the cotton gin in 1793. In 1801, Joseph Jacquard invented a loom that automated the placement of threads in the weaving process. In the early 1800s, the steam engine powered more than 100,000 looms and 9 million spindles in Britain. Today, technological advances have enabled the invention of synthetic fibers and computerized textile processes. 45

46. Textiles and Production 46 Making Synthetic Fibers Most synthetic and cellulosic manufactured fibers are created by extrusion. Section 6.2 extrusion a synthetic textile process in which solid raw materials are dissolved by chemicals or melted with heat to form a thick liquid that is extruded, or forced out, through the tiny holes of a device called a spinneret to create long fibers

47. Textiles and Production 47 How Fibers Become Fabrics Weaving and knitting are the two primary methods for making fibers into fabric. Weaves are woven fabrics composed of two sets of yarns with one set running the length (warp) and the other set running crosswise (fill or weft). Examples of nonwoven fabric are felt, net, and lace. Section 6.2

48. Textiles and Production 48 How Fibers Become Fabrics A finished fabric is ready to be used for manufacturing garments. Section 6.2 finished fabric fabric that has gone through all the necessary finishing processes and is ready to be used in the manufacturing of garments

49. Textiles and Production 49 Types of Weaves and Knits The three basic weave types are plain, twill, and satin. Plain – a basic weave. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain-weave fabric. Ex. Gingham and calico Twill – creates a diagonal effect on the face or right side of the garment. In some twills, the diagonal effect can be seen on the back side of the fabric. Ex. Denim Satin – yarns are interlaced so there is no visible pattern. A smooth and shiny surface effect is achieved. Section 6.2 weaves woven fabrics that are composed of two sets of yarns with one set running the length and the other set running crosswise

50. Textiles and Production 50 Types of Weaves and Knits Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Section 6.2 knits knitted fabrics made from only one set of yarns that runs in the same direction Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise.

51. Textiles and Production 51 Textiles and Fashion Marketing Textiles, including fibers, yarns, and fabrics as well as fur and leather are the basic building blocks of all fashion products that are marketed to consumers. Section 6.2

52. Textiles and Production 52 Operating an e-tail business on an electronic channel—the Web—can be costly, due to design, delivery, returns, and operating expenses. Though Many larger dot-com companies crashed in the 1990’s, small stores like Harris Cyclery of West Newton, Massachusetts, actually increase sales using a basic Web site. Today, a third of Harris’s bicycle business rides in on the Web to get hard-to-find parts and personal service. Describe an e-business’s home page to your class after viewing one through marketingseries.glencoe.com.marketingseries.glencoe.com Dedicated Web sites provide one-stop shopping for information on all aspects of specific industries. Traditionally, the textile industry has been divided into separate but related groups, such as textile producers, machinery suppliers, buyers, and dyers. Each group can find industry-specific information through dedicated Web sites. Textile Text However, some Web sites bring related businesses together on central, accessible sites. Section 6.2 For more information, go to marketingseries.glencoe.com.marketingseries.glencoe.com 52

53. Textiles and Production 53 How are synthetic fabrics produced? What are the two primary ways of turning fibers into fabric? What are the three basic types of weave? 1. 2. 3. Section 6.2 6.2

54. Textiles and Production 54 1.Name the fiber characteristics that determine the appropriate use of fabric for specific fashion apparel. appearance, strength, absorbency, warmth, shrinkage, and price 1.Fibers are thin, hairlike strands that are the basic units used to make fabrics and textile products. Yarns are uninterrupted threads of textile fibers that are ready to be turned into fabrics. 2.cotton, linen (flax), wool, silk, leather or suede, and fur 3. continued Checking Concepts 2.Define the terms fiber and yarns. 3.Identify the main natural fibers used in fashion.

55. Textiles and Production 55 4.Identify the two groups of natural fibers. The two group of natural fibers are cellulosic and protein fibers. 4.Manufactured fibers include: rayon, acrylic, nylon, polyester, acetate, spandex, microfibers, and lyocell. 5. Natural fibers are made from plants or animals. Manufactured fibers are created by a manufacturing process of any substance that is not a fiber. Manufactured fibers include cellulosic and noncellulosic or synthetic (from petrochemicals). 6. continued Checking Concepts 5.Describe the different types of manufactured fibers. 6.Discuss the differences between natural and manufactured fibers.

56. Textiles and Production 56 8.Explain how and why natural fiber associations promote their industry. Critical Thinking Checking Concepts Weaves are woven fabrics that are composed of two sets of yarns with one set running the length and the other set running crosswise. Knits are knitted fabrics made from only one set of yarns that runs in the same direction. 7. 7.Explain the difference between weaves and knits. With the development of synthetic fibers in the 20 th century, natural fiber industries had to compete to maintain markets. Thus, they formed associations to provide information to consumers and business and to promote natural fibers. 8.

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