1. Fabric Test

2. Common fabric testing standards AATCC:AATCC: –American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists ASTM:ASTM: –American Society for Testing & Materials

3. AATCC The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists is the world's largest technical and scientific society devoted to the advancement of textile chemistry. The Association has some 5,000+ individual and 270 corporate members in the U.S. and in 65 countries. AATCC accomplishes its objectives: Education, Research & communication, through a variety of activities: publications including but not limited to the monthly magazine AATCC Review and the annual AATCC Technical Manual, workshops and symposia, the annual International Conference & Exhibition, and member participation in research and technology committees.

4. ASTM Organized in 1898, ASTM is one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world. ASTM is a not-for-profit organization that provides a forum for the development and publication of voluntary consensus standards for materials, products, systems and services. More than 32,000 members representing producers, users, ultimate consumers, and representatives of government and academia from over 100 countries develop documents that serve as a basis for manufacturing, procurement, and regulatory activities. ASTM develops standard test methods, specifications, practices, guides, classifications, and terminology in 130 areas covering subjects such as metals, paints, plastics, textiles, petroleum, construction, energy, the environment, consumer products, medical services and devices, computerized systems, electronics, and many others. More than 10,000 ASTM standards are published each year in the 73 volumes of the Annual Book of ASTM Standards. These standards and related technical information are sold throughout the world.

5. Conditioning Most test are done in conditioning laboratory Condition the preconditioned skeins in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 70 +/- 2 o F (21 +/- 1 o C) and 65 +/- 2% relative humidity, until moisture equilibrium for testing is reached, that is until the mass of the specimen increases by no more than 0.1% after 2 hours in the standard atmosphere for testing. For fabric length and width testing, fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test. While for fabric weight testing, the fabric MUST be fully conditioning before processing the test.

6. Oven Drying Place the skeins as wound, or after scouring in an oven, and maintain the temperature at 105 +/- 3 o C (221 +/- 6 o F). Arrange the skeins to permit free access of air. Dry the yarn to constant mass, that is until it loses no more than 0.1% of its mass at 15-min intervals if weighed in the oven or at 30-min intervals if weighed outside the oven.

7. Flammability Test 16 CFR 1610 (CS-191-53) It is important to know both whether a fabric will burn or not, and, if it does, how quickly the flame will spread through it. The flammability testing procedure therefore determines both whether a fabric will ignite and the time that it takes to burn. Standardized conditions are applied including the size of the sample, the flame length used, and the timing of the test. The fabric sample is first placed in an oven at about 105 o C for 30 minutes, then put in a flammability tester where a flame is applied and the result observed. The fabric is then classified according to whether it burned, and if so, how long the flame took to spread.

8. Fiber Identification AATCC 20/20 A This test method describes physical, chemical and microscopical techniques for identifying textile fibers used commercially. Fibers may be examined in raw fiber form or taken from yarn or fabric.

9. Fabric Length ASTM-D3773-90 (1996) Fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test. These test methods cover four options for measuring fabric length and are applicable to full rolls or bolts of materials. There are four approved options of measuring length as follows: Option A -Hand Option B -Drum Option C -Clock Option D -Folding The values stated in either SI units or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system must be used independently of the other, without combining values in any way.

10. Fabric Width ASTM-D3774-96 Fabric should be conditioning first before processing the test. These test methods cover the measurement of the width of fabrics, pile or napped surface width, or both. The method is applicable to full rolls, bolts of fabric, and short specimens removed from a roll or bolt. Unless otherwise specified, measurements shall include the selvages when present. The method offers two options: Option A -Full Roll or Bolt. Option B -Short Specimen Removed from Full Roll or Bolt.

11. Fabric Weight ASTM-D3776 Fabric mass per unit area is expressed either as grams per square meter (ounces per square yard), or grams per linear meter (ounces per linear yard). Fabric mass is no also sometimes expressed inversely as linear meter per kilograms (yards per pound) with the fabric width stated. Fabric mass is calculated from the mass of a specimen the length and width of which have been measured as directed in one of the procedures in test method D3773 and D3774

12. Thread Count (Ends & Picks) ASTM-D3775 This test covers the measurement of fabric count and is applicable to all types of woven fabrics. The number of warp yarns (ends) per unit distance and filling yarns (picks) per unit distance are determined using suitable magnifying and counting devices or by raveling yarns from fabrics.

13. Yarn size ASTM-D1059, 1907 For the test of ASTM-D1059, it covers the determination of the yarn number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from napped or cut pile fabrics. Since this method is based on short-length specimens, the results should only be considered as approximations of yarn number. For the test of ASTM-D1907, it covers the determination of the linear density of all types of yarn in package form, subject to the limitations of size and stretch. Provision is made for expressing yarn linear density in all the traditional yarn numbering systems

14. Tensile Strength ASTM-D5034-1995 This term refers to the breaking load or force, expressed in units of weight, required to break or rupture a specimen. A number of methods can be used to test the tensile strength of a textile sample such as fiber, yarn or cloth. The sample is clamped between two sets of jaws, a force or load is applied to it until it ruptures and the average breaking load is recorded in the “Strip Test” and the “Grab Test’.

15. Tearing Strength ASTM-D2261-1996 This term means the force required in units of weight to tear a fabric. A fabric sample of standard dimensions (according to the testing requirements) has a slit cut into it. The testing apparatus then measures the work done in tearing a fixed distance through the cloth. The “Elmendorf” is a popular tearing tester.

16. Seam Slippage ASTM-D434-1995 The seam slippage of a woven fabric refers to the ability of a seam to withstand forces trying to pull it apart. A strip of fabric is folded and stitched across the width of the seam. A load is then applied to the strip at right angles to the seam using “grab-test” jaws, and the extent to which the seam opens is measured. The seam strength is recorded as the seam breaks under test conditions. The measuring equipment gradually increases the axial load on the sample (the load applied depends on the testing requirements) and the width of the seam opening at its widest place is measured to determine the seam slippage.

17. Dimensional Stability AATCC-135-1995 IVAi (3 wash) The dimensional stability test is designed to show how well a fabric keeps its shape after washing. Washing usually results in shrinkage, although some fabric can expand, or gain, after washing. For this test, the washing time and temperature, drying procedure and restoration technique (such as ironing) are all specified, and options are available. The sample is measured in both the warp and weft directions (or wales and courses for knitted fabrics). The percentage of shrinkage (gain) is calculated and the results compared with commercially accepted standards.

18. Color Fastness An important property of fabric is its color fastness or ability to keep its original color. To assess the amount of color change or staining that takes place in a fabric, “grey scales” are used. The grey scale for assessing color change rates the results of a test from class 1 (poor, substantial change of color) to class 5 (excellent, no change in original color). Similarly, the grey scale for assessing staining rates the results from class (heavy staining) to class 5 (no staining). There are different types of color fastness which need to be tested as the color of a fabric can be affected by a variety of factors.

19. Color Fastness to Laundry AATCC-61-2A-1996 The apparatus used for this test is known as a launderometer. Specific sizes for fabric swatches are prepare for laundering, one being retained for color change comparison. The color change is assessed by using the gray scales under standard lighting conditions. Any staining is measured in the same way.

20. Color Fastness to Dry & Wet Crocking AATCC-8-1996 The crockmeter test determines the degree of color which is transferred from one surface to another by rubbing. The test reveals the presence of surface dyes that have not been removed properly by rinsing, or a failure of the dye class to give good dye affinity and fixation. The test, which can be done under either wet or dry conditions, involves mounting the fabric sample in a crockmeter, which rubs it in continuous cycles against a standard white test fabric. A fixed pressure is applied for a set number of cycles, and the amount of color which is stained onto the white test fabric is then assessed by comparing it with the grey scale for assessing staining.

21. Color Fastness to Non- Chlorine Bleach AATCC-172-1996 In this test, after the sample is bleached, grey scales are used to evaluate the color change, and the result is compared with commercially accepted standards.

22. Color Fastness to perspiration AATCC-15-1997 In this test, a fabric sample is soaked wit a simulated perspiration solution. It is then subjected to mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly in certain atmospheric conditions for a period of time (as specified by testing standard). Changes in color and staining are assessed by the appropriate grey scales.

23. Color Fastness to Light AATCC-16E-1998 It is important for fabrics such as curtains and upholstery to good light fastness properties. In the test, a fabric sample is exposed to daylight under given conditions, including protection from rain, together with eight dyed wool standards. Its color fastness is assessed by comparing the color change of the sample with that of the standards. Results range from class 1 (substantial color fading) to class 8 (no color fading).

24. Color Fastness to Water AATCC-107 The specimen backed by multifiber test fabric, is immersed in water under specified condition of temperature and time, and then placed between glass or plastic plated under specified condition of pressure, temperature and time. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the attached multifiber test fabric are observed.

25. Pilling Resistance (Randometric pilling) ASTM-D3512-1982 This test method covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics. The method utilized the Random Tumble Pilling Testing. The procedure is generally applicable to all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics.

26. Pilling Resistance (Elastometric Pad Pilling) ASTM-D3514 This test method covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other surface distortions such as fuzzing of textile fabrics. The method utilizes the Stoll Quartermaster Universal Wear Tester with the frosting attachment. The procedures is generally applicable to all types of woven and knitted fabrics.

27. Needle Cutting ASTM-D1908-89 This test method evaluated the damage caused by sewing machine needles when a specific sewn seam assembly is used for a woven fabric.

28. Abrasion Resistance (Pile Retention) ASTM-D4685-1987 This test method covers the determination of the loss of pile, specifically pile pull out, due to abrasion.

29. Pile Retention ASTM-D3885-1992 This test method covers the determination of the resistance of woven fabrics to flexing and abrasion using the flexing and abrasion tester. This test method is not applicable to floor coverings. A specimen is subjected to unidirectional reciprocal folding and rubbing over a bar having specified characteristics, under known conditions of pressure and tension. Resistance to flexing and abrasion is evaluated by various means.

30. pH Value AATCC-81 This test method determines the pH of wet processed textiles either scoured or bleached. To make a quantitative determination, the chemicals which influence pH must be removed from the textile specimen, collected as a water extract and then accurately measured by a pH meter.