1. Remembering the Hard Stuff Or should I say making connections so you can find the info file in your brain

2. Parts of the Nail

3. Nail D & D  Onycholysis  Loosening of the nail “ L” for loosening… only one with an “L”  Onychomycosis  Ring worm of the nail Worms like to “chom”p

4. Nail D & D cont.  Onychogryposis  Over curvature of the nail  aka Claw nail Use the nail to “gryp” something  Onychoptosis  Shedding or falling off The nail is “chopt o”ff

5. Nail D & D cont.  Onychocryptosis  Ingrown nail  Prevent by cutting nail straight across A “crypt” is in deep or Ingrown nail makes you “cry”  Onychauxis  Thickening of the nail  aka Hypertrophy Chaulk, “chaux” is thick

6. Nail D & D cont.  Onychatrophia  Wasting away of the nail  aka atrophy If you don’t have a “trophi”, you are a waste  Onychorrhexis  Split, brittle nails “hex” reminds me of a witch, and witches have split brittle nails

7. Nail D & D cont.  Onychophagy  Bitten nails  coffee makes you nervous so you bite nails OR you cough when you swallow a nail OR only “hag”s bite their nails  Leuconychia  White spots Leukemia affects white blood cells. White blood cells fight infection

8. Nail D & D cont.  Furrows  Indented vertical lines Plant a garden in vertical “rows”  Corrugations  Horizontal wavy ridges Corrugated cardboard

9. Hair Theory  Two primary parts  Hair root – inside hair follicle under the skin  Hair fiber – the portion above the skin  aka hair shaft or hair strand  Papilla – nourishes the germinal matrix cells

10. Medulla ~ Very Center ~ Not found in every strand Cortex ~ Second layer ~ contains melanin ~ eumelanin/pheomelanin ~ ~ strength (elasticity) ~ soft layer of protein ~ contains strong disulfide bonds Cuticle ~ Outer most layer, protection ~ Overlapping layers of scales ~ Hard, resistant layer of protein Hair Shaft

11. pH Scale ACID 1 – 6.9 ALKALINE 7.1 – 14  Developer 2.5 – 4.5  Neutralizer 2.5 – 7  Alkaline Perm 8.0 – 9.5  Relaxer 11.5 – 14  Thio Relaxer 8.8 – 9.5  Lightener 8.0 – 11  Hair Color 9.5 – 10.5  Semi-permanent lower alkalinity – Permanent higher alkalinity 7 * Acid Perm 6.9 – 7.2

12. Main Ingredients √ Relaxer - Sodium Hydroxide aka Lye √ Thio Relaxer - Ammonium thioglycolate √ Curl Reformation - Ammonium thioglycolate √ Acid Perm - Glyceryl monothioglycolate √ Alkaline Perm – Ammonium thioglycolate √ Neutralizer - Hydrogen Peroxide √ Analine Derivative tint – Paraphenylene diamine

13. Anatomy

14. Anatomy Cont.

15. Hair Sculpting Solid form = rectangle/oval 0 degree Natural fall/one level Unactivated Perimeter weight Stationary guide aka one length, blunt cut or a bob Graduated form = triangle 45 degree Shorter exterior/longer interior Unactivated/Activated Mobile/Stationary guide Perpendicular distribution aka wedge cut, stacked Foundation of a haircut… FORM

16. Hair Sculpting cont. Increase form = oval/oblong 180 degree Shorter interior/longer exterior Activated – no weight Mobile/Stationary guide aka long layers or shag Uniform form = circular/round 90 degree Perpendicular distribution Same length throughout Activated – no weight Mobile guide aka feathered or layered Foundation of a haircut… FORM

17. Miscellaneous Facts The “ideal” shape is an oval… draw it out Parts of a pin curl Color Longevity: Temporary – shampoo-shampoo Semi – several shampoos Demi – 4-6 weeks aka long lasting semi stem/arc circle base