2. 15 Milady’s Standard Cosmetology CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES Copyright © 2004 by Delmar Learning, a division of Thomson Learning,Inc.

3. 15 Learning Objectives  Students will be able to: 1. List the factors of a hair analysis for chemical texture services. 2. Explain the physical and chemical actions that take place during a permanent wave. 3. List and describe the various types of permanent wave solutions. 4. I can demonstrate basic wrapping procedures. 5. I can demonstrate the procedure for a permanent (chemical) waving service. 6. Define terms related to chemical hair waving services. 7. Follow all safety and infection control practices before, during, and after chemical waving services.

4. 15 What is Chemical Waving? Why should a client get a chemical (permanent) wave?

5. 15 A chemical service that permanently alters the natural pattern of the hair by adding waves or curls to the hair with the use of chemicals.

6. 15 STRUCTURE OF HAIR (cabello) CUTICLE (CUTICULA)  A tough outer layer of hair surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage.  The cuticle consists of seven or more overlapping layers.  Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair, raising the cuticle and allowing the solution to penetrate into the cortex. Structure of a hair

7. 15 CORTEX (CORTEZA)  This middle layer is a major component of hair.  Polypeptide chains are connected by end bonds, and crosslinked by side bonds that form fibers and structure of hair.  Breaking the side bonds of the cortex makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern.  All physical and chemical actions take place in the cortex. Structure of a hair

8. 15 PEPTIDE BONDS (enlaces pepti’dicos) END BONDS)  Peptide bonds join amino acids (aminoacidos) together, forming long chains called polypeptide chains.  These chains are long, coiled, complex proteins made up of many different amino acids linked together like beads.  Peptide bonds should not be broken; this could cause the polypeptide chains to come apart and dramatically weaken the hair, causing breakage. Figure 15-3

9. 15 SIDE BONDS  The cortex—is made up of millions of polypeptide chains  Crosslinked by three types of side or cross bonds  Disulfide bonds  Salt bonds  Hydrogen bonds Figure 15-4

10. 15  Formed between two cysteine amino acids  Located on neighboring polypeptide chains  Join cysteine sulfur atoms from two different polypeptide chains to form cystine (oxidized form of cysteine) Figure 15-5 DISULFIDE BONDS (enlaces disulfuro)

11. 15 DISULFIDE BONDS  Stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds.  Weaker than peptide bonds.  Cannot be broken by heat or water.  Account for about one third of hair’s overall strength.  Chemical and physical changes in disulfide bonds are what make chemical texture services possible.

12. 15 SALT BONDS  Side or cross bonds  Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges  Easily broken by changes in pH  Re-form when pH returns to normal  Weaker than disulfide bonds, but due to quantity, account for about one third of hair’s strength

13. 15 HYDROGEN (Hidrogeno) BONDS  Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges  Easily broken by water  Re-forms as the hair dries or cools  Individually weak but their quantity accounts for about one third of hair’s total strength Changes in hair cortex during wet setting Figure 15.6

14. 15 “Review Challenge”  Define “Chemical Waving”.____________________________ _________________________________________.  There are 4 bonds within the hair structure that are affected by chemical waving. What are they?____________, _____________, ________________________, _______________________  Which bond must be broken during the chemical process in order for the chemical change to occur? _________________  Which bond is easily broken by water? _____________  There are 3 layers of the hair shaft. The cuticle, the cortex and medulla. All chemical and physical changes takes place in which layer? ____________________  How many sections do you use for a Basic Perm Wrap. ________ 13

15. 15  Hair before processing  The disulfide (chemical) bonds give hair its strength and firmness.  These bonds must be broken down to allow the perming process to occur. CHEMICAL ACTION ON HAIR POLYPEPTIDECHAINSPOLYPEPTIDECHAINS DISULFIDE BONDS

16. 15  Waving lotion breaks the disulfide bonds and softens hair.  The hair is then molded to the shape of the rod. PROCESSING

17. 15  When the hair has assumed the new desired shape of the rod, the broken disulfide bonds must be chemically re-bonded with the neutralizer. (neutralizador) NEUTRALIZING

18. 15  Its function is to permanently establish new curl shape.  If hair is not properly neutralized, it will relax within a few shampoos.  It is composed of a small percent of H ² O ² at an acidic pH.  Procedures vary by product; always follow directions carefully. THE CHEMISTRY OF NEUTRALIZER

19. 15 CONSULTATION GUIDELINES  Introduce self; greet client by name  Ask open-ended questions  Review photos with client  Ask about past texture services  Ask about current style; discuss changes that will occur  Evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of the hair  Fill out client consultation card CLIENT CONSULTATION

20. 15 CLIENT RECORD  Include a complete hair analysis.  Record previous problems or adverse reactions.  Record service details:  Record type of product used  Type and size of perm rods used  Wrapping technique used  Processing time  Results  Update records with each service.

21. 15 CLIENT RELEASE FORM  Should be signed prior to a service  May or may not release school or salon from responsibility  Indicates that the client knew there was a possibility of damage to hair

22. 15 HAIR AND SCALP ANALYSIS  Look for cuts, scratches, or open sores; do not proceed with service if skin abrasions or a scalp disease is present.  Hair is the fastest growing appendage of the human body.  Hair is affected by diet, exercise, medications, and stress.  The five most important factors in hair analysis are  texture. (textura)  density. (densidad)  porosity. (porosidad)  elasticity. (elasticidad)  growth direction.

23. 15  Hair texture describes the diameter of a single strand of hair, and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse  Coarse hair usually requires more processing time; may be resistant; more difficult to penetrate.  Medium hair is most common; considered normal and does not pose special problems.  Fine hair is fragile; easier to process and more susceptible to damage; hair will process faster and more easily than medium or coarse hair. HAIR TEXTURE (textura)

24. 15 TEXTURE CoarseMedium Fine

25. 15 DENSITY (densidad)  Density refers to the number of hairs per square inch on the head.  By assessing density, you will determine the size of the partings to be used.  Thick hair requires small partings.  Thin hair can use slightly larger partings.

26. 15 FOUR TYPES OF POROSITY (porosidad)  Resistant—cuticle lays close to hair shaft; absorbs waving lotion slowly; requires longer processing time and stronger solution.  Good porosity—cuticle slightly raised from shaft; absorbs moisture and/or chemicals in average time.  Porous hair—made porous by treatments; absorbs lotion quickly; requires shortest processing time; use a lower pH solution.  Overly-porous hair—damaged, dry, brittle, fragile; reconditioning or cutting required before perming.  You may use a prewrap lotion to even porosity.

27. 15  Tight compact cuticle  Hair lays flat on shaft RESISTANT HAIR

28. 15  Cuticle slightly raised  Normal hair  Can absorb moisture in average time GOOD POROSITY

29. 15  Use a lower PH solution.  Proceed with caution. EXTREME POROSITY

30. 15  Hair is  dry.  brittle.  fragile.  Until hair is cut, do not perm. DAMAGED, OVERPROCESSED HAIR

31. 15 POROSITY TEST  Hold end of hair; slide fingers down on hair toward scalp.  If hair is smooth and cuticle is dense, the hair will be resistant and will not easily absorb perm solution.  If you feel slight roughness, cuticle is open and hair is porous.

32. 15 HAIR ELASTICITY (Elasticidad)  Is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to normal shape without breaking  Indicates the strength of the side bonds  Determines the hair’s ability to hold a curl  Classified as:  Normal—can stretch up to 50% of its length and return without breaking  Low—does not return to its original shape when stretched Figure 15-8 Elasticity test

33. 15 DIRECTION OF HAIR GROWTH  Direction of hair growth causes hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks that influence finished styles, and should be considered when selecting the base direction and waving pattern for a permanent wave.

34. 15 Review Challenge 1. Which bonds must be broken in order for the chemical waving process to occur? Disulfide or hydrogen 2. What is the purpose of the neutralizer? ________________ _______________________. 3. What are you looking for during the hair and scalp analysis? ______________, ______________, ______________, _____________, _______________ 4. What are the four types of porosity? ___________,________ ________________, _____________________. 5. The direction of hair growth has little to no effect in chemical waving services? True or False

35. 15 PERMANENT WAVING A Two-Step Process  Physical change—the act of wrapping sections of hair around a perm rod  Chemical change—caused by the permanent waving solution and the neutralizer

36. 15

37. THE PERM WRAP  Size, shape, and type of curl are determined by the type of rod used for wrapping.  Perm solution softens the hair to conform to the shape of the rod used.  Tension produces the curl; too much tension can cause breakage.  Keep hair wet and wrap with uniform, even tension. Figure 15-9

38. 15 SECTIONING  Panels  Size, shape, and direction of panels vary based on type of wrapping pattern.  Base sections  Panels are divided into subsections called base sections.  Size of base section is determined by the length and width of the rod. Figure 15-10

39. 15 BASE CONTROL  Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section  Is determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped

40. 15 ON-BASE PLACEMENT  Hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section.  Rod is positioned on its base section. Figure 15-11

41. 15 HALF-OFF-BASE PLACEMENT  Hair is wrapped at a 90- degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section.  Rod is positioned half off its base section.  This positioning minimizes stress and tension on the hair. Figure 15-12

42. 15 OFF-BASE PLACEMENT  Hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section.  Rod is positioned completely off its base section.  Creates least amount of volume and curl pattern that begins away from the scalp. Figure 15-13

43. 15 BASE DIRECTION  Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head  Horizontally  Vertically  Diagonally  Also refers to the directional pattern in which hair is wrapped  Backward  Forward  To one side  Wrapping against the natural growth pattern causes excess stress that may damage or break the hair.

44. 15 WRAPPING TECHNIQUES  Croquignole wrapping—The hair strands are wrapped from ends to the scalp in overlapping layers. The curl is tighter on the ends and gets larger nearer the scalp.  Spiral wrapping—Hair is wound from ends to the scalp with most rods. The angle at which the hair is wrapped causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod. This technique causes a uniform curl from scalp to ends. Croquignole Figure 15-17Figure 15-18 Spiral

45. 15 ROD TYPES Figure 15-20 Concave rods Straight rods Figure 15-19 Figure 15-21 Long and short rods, and the contours of the head

46. 15 SOFT BENDER RODS  Are about 12 inches long  Have uniform diameter along entire length  Have soft foam with a stiff inner wire  Can be used with a croquignole or spiral wrapping technique Figure 15-24

47. 15 CIRCLE TOOL OR LOOP ROD  Are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter  Are ideal for wrapping extremely long hair  Form a circle when fastened together Figure 15-25

48. 15 END PAPERS  They are also known as end wraps.  They are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping.  Papers should extend beyond ends of hair to prevent “fishhooks.”  Double flat wrap uses end papers, one placed under and one over hair strand; both papers extend past hair ends. Figure 15-26 Double flat wrap

49. 15 END PAPERS  Single flat wrap uses one end paper placed over top of strand of hair being wrapped.  Bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over hair ends like an envelope. This eliminates excess paper, and can be used with short rods or with very short lengths of hair. Figure 15-28 Bookend wrap Figure 15-27 Single flat wrap

50. 15 CHEMISTRY OF PERM WAVING

51. 15 REDUCTION  Waving solution softens and swells the hair.  This raises the cuticle and permits solution to penetrate cortex.  Once in the cortex, solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction.  A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen.  In permanent waving, the reaction is a result of the addition of hydrogen. Hair saturated with alkaline solution with a pH of 9.5 for five minutes The same hair saturated with acid- balanced pH of 7.5 for five minutes Figure 15-29Figure 15-30

52. 15 REDUCTION  Disulfide bonds join a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a second sulfur atom on a neighboring polypeptide chain.  Solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond.  Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the solution, breaking their attachment to each other.  Once broken, polypeptide chains are able to be reshaped into new curls. Figure 15-31

53. 15 REDUCING AGENTS  Thio compounds are commonly referred to as Thio.  Thioglycolic acid is the most common thio.  It is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor.  It provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction in permanent waving solutions.  Strength of solutions is determined by the concentration of thio.  Stronger solutions have a higher concentration of thio with a greater number of hydrogen atoms.  The greater the hydrogen atoms available, the more disulfide bonds are broken.

54. 15 REDUCING AGENTS  Thioglycolic acid does not swell hair or penetrate the cortex.  The manufacturer has to add an alkalizing agent.  When ammonia is added, a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate is formed (which is alkaline).  Ammonium thioglycolate is t he main active ingredient in alkaline perms.  Perm pH  Second factor in overall strength of permanent waving solution.  Coarse hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer may need additional swelling and penetration.  The pH of solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer.

55. 15 TYPES OF PERMANENT WAVES  Alkaline Waves or Cold Waves  First developed in 1941 using ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)  Known as cold waves because they process at room temperature  Usually have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 Figure 15-32 pH scale of various perms

56. 15 TRUE ACID WAVES  Were introduced in early 1970s.  Usually have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0.  Require heat for processing.  Main active ingredient—glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG), which is acid and has a low pH.  Acid waves process more slowly and do not produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.  They have a pH below 7.0.  A pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair because pH is calculated on a logarithmic scale; a pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline than the pH of hair; therefore, acid waves can swell the hair. Figure 15-32

57. 15 ACID-BALANCED WAVES AND COMPONENTS  Most of these have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2, which means they are not true acid waves.  Modern acid waves are acid- balanced, and process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.  Components  Permanent waving solution  Activator  CAUTION: Adding activator to neutralizer by accident will cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury, especially to eyes.  Neutralizer Figure 15-32

58. 15 EXOTHERMIC WAVES AND COMPONENTS  These create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing.  Waving solution contains thio.  Activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide).  Mixing oxidizer with solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase of temperature of the solution.  Heat increases the rate of the chemical reaction and reduces the processing time.

59. 15 ENDOTHERMIC WAVES  These are activated by an outside heat source.  Usually a conventional hood dryer is used.  These will not process properly at room temperature.

60. 15 AMMONIA-FREE PERMS  Main ingredient does not evaporate as readily as ammonia.  Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamine (MEA) are examples of alkanolamines that are used as substitutes for ammonia.  Odor is reduced but damage can still occur.

61. 15 THIO-FREE WAVES  These use a reducing agent other than ammonium thioglycolate such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, which are thio compounds.  At high concentration, the reducing agents in thio-free waves can be as damaging as thio.

62. 15 LOW-pH WAVES  Not very popular  Weak and do not provide a firm curl  Usually marketed as body waves  Sulfate, sulfite, and bisulfite alternatives to ammonium thioglycolate

63. 15 SELECTING THE RIGHT TYPE OF PERM  It is important to select the right type of perm for each client.  Every client has hair with its own distinct texture and condition.  Individual needs must be addressed.  Choose the type of perm best suited to your client’s hair type, condition, and desired results.

64. 15 PERM TYPE ACTIVE INGREDIENT PROCESS RECOMMENDED HAIR TYPE/RESULTS Alkaline/cold wave pH: 9.0 to 9.6 Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) Room temperature Exothermic wave pH: 9.0 to 9.6 Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) exothermic True acid wave pH: 4.5 to 7.0 Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) endothermic Acid-balanced wave pH: 7.8 to 8.2 Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) Room temperature Ammonia- free wave pH: 7.0 to 9.6 Monoethaanolamine (MEA)/aminomethylpropan ol (AMP) Room temperature Thio-free wave pH: 7.0 to 9.6 Mercaptamine/cysteamine Room temperature Low-pH waves pH: 6.5 to 7.0 Ammonium sulfite/ammonium bisulfites endothermic

65. 15 PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING  Most processing takes place in the first 5 to 10 minutes.  Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to new configuration. Figure 15-33

66. 15 PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING OVERPROCESSED HAIR  This does not necessarily mean extremely curly.  If too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl.  Hair at scalp is usually stronger than ends, so overprocessed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends. UNDERPROCESSED HAIR  If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl.  Hair at scalp is usually not as curly as the ends.  More processing will make it curlier.

67. 15 PERMANENT WAVING NEUTRALIZATION  This is the process of stopping the action of a waving solution and hardening hair in its new form.  It deactivates any waving lotion remaining in hair.  It rebuilds the disulfide bonds into their new shape.  Neutralizers are oxidizers.  The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide.  Concentrations vary between 5 volume and 10 volume.

68. 15 STAGE ONE OF NEUTRALIZING  The first function is deactivation of waving solution that remains in hair after rinsing.  Rinse hair for five full minutes.  Towel-blot each rod thoroughly several times using dry towels.  If directed, apply a pre-neutralizing conditioner.  This is an acidic liquid protein conditioner.  Follow manufacturers’ directions for use.

69. 15 STAGE TWO OF NEUTRALIZING  Solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms.  Neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms.  Hydrogen atoms attract to oxygen in neutralizer, release bond with sulfur atoms, and join with oxygen.  Each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild disulfide bond and make one molecule of water.  Water is removed in final rinse. Disulfide bonds form in their new curled position. Figure 15-36

70. 15 NEW DISULFIDE PAIRS  Neutralizer removes extra hydrogen atoms.  Each sulfur atom forms a bond with a nearby sulfur atom.  Strength of newly formed disulfide bond pairs holds the hair in its new shape. Figure 15-37

71. 15 POST-PERM HAIR CARE  A properly neutralized perm is stable, and a waiting period before shampooing is not necessary.  Shampoo with a mild, acid-balanced shampoo; this should not cause excessive relaxation or damage to the hair or scalp.  Modern day demipermanent, deposit-only haircolors can be used safely on freshly permed, properly neutralized hair.

72. 15 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS  Protect client’s clothing.  Do not give service if client is allergic to products.  Discard unused products.  Do not dilute or add ingredients.  Keep solution away from eyes and skin.  Always follow manufacturers’ directions.  Wear gloves while applying solutions.  Replace wet cotton or towels.  Examine scalp prior to service.  Do not perm excessively damaged or broken hair.  Do not perm hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxers.  Perform test for metallic salts.  Apply protective barrier cream around hairline and ears.

73. 15 METALLIC SALTS  Are not compatible with permanent waving solutions  Leave a coating on the hair  May cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage  Are common in men’s haircolors sold for home use  Usually found in restorers and progressive haircolors that darken hair gradually with repeated applications

74. 15 TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS  Use glass or plastic bowl.  Mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia.  Immerse 20 strands or more of hair in solution for 30 minutes.  If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed with service.  If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly, the solution will get hot and give off an unpleasant odor and do not proceed with service.

75. 15 SUMMARY  Hair structure has a significant impact on the physical and chemical actions that occur in permanent waving.  Proper hair and scalp analysis, as well as a client consultation, must be completed before a perm service.  Hair condition, texture, length, porosity, and elasticity will effect the rod size and product you choose.  Depending on the client’s desired results, you will choose one of many products and wrapping patterns.

76. 15 PERMANENT WAVING PROCEDURES

77. 15 PERMANENT WAVE PROCEDURES  Basic wrapping methods can be combined to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps.  This will provide an unlimited number of styling options.

78. 15 BASIC PERM WRAP  This is also known as a straight set wrap.  All rods within a panel move in the same direction.  All rods are positioned on equal-size bases.  All base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.

79. 15 CURVATURE PERM WRAP

80. 15 BASIC PERM WRAP

81. 15 CURVATURE PERM WRAP  The movement curves within sectioned-out panels.  Partings and bases radiate to follow the curvature of the head.  Wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped sections in curvature areas.

82. 15 BRICKLAY PERM WRAP  This is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying.  Base sections are offset by rows; this is done to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair.  Use different starting points when wrapping.

83. 15 BRICK-LAY PERM WRAP

84. 15 WEAVE WRAP  Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas  Can be used in whole or in part throughout head  Is effective for blending between perm rods  Can be used with various base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm rods Figure 15-41

85. 15 WEAVE TECHNIQUE

86. 15 PIGGYBACK WRAP  This is also called a double tool wrap.  Two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.

87. 15 PIGGYBACK PERM WRAP

88. 15 SPIRAL PERM WRAP  Hair is held at an angle that causes it to spiral along the length of the rod.  Layers may partially overlap as they go along.  Longer, thicker hair will benefit from this effect.  Conventional rods, bendable soft foam rods, and circle rods can be used. Figure 15-43 Figure 15-93

89. 15 SPIRAL WRAP THIS IS WHAT A COMPLETED SPIRAL WRAP LOOKS LIKE. DEPENDING ON THE LENGTH OF CLIENT’S HAIR, IT CAN TAKE ONE TO 2 HOURS TO WRAP THIS.

90. 15 PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS  These are beneficial because they help to predict the results of the perm; also results from the product used and from the rod size and wrapping technique.  Perform a preliminary test curl if hair is damaged or outcome is uncertain.  Make sure you adhere to the correct processing time for optimal curl development.

91. 15 PARTIAL PERMS  These perms use the same techniques and wrapping patterns as those used with other perms.  To make a smooth transition from rolled section to unrolled section, use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section.  Applying waving lotion to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style.  To protect unrolled hair, apply a protective barrier cream to unrolled section before applying waving lotion.

92. 15 PARTIAL PERM WRAP

93. 15 PERMS FOR MEN  Male clients also look for added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide.  Perms help thin hair look fuller.  Perms make straight or coarse hair more manageable.  Perms control stubborn cowlicks.  Perm techniques for men and women are essentially the same.

94. 15 SUMMARY  We have established that a perm will probably be your most frequently requested chemical service.  Hair and scalp analysis is essential for successful results in permanent waving.  Rod selection is based on hair length and hair texture.  Wrapping pattern will be determined by the desired style.  The perm procedure involves waving lotion to break down the side bonds.  Neutralizer rehardens hair into its new curly shape.  Follow all safety precautions when working with chemicals.  Always put the safety and comfort of your client first and foremost in your work.

95. 15 BASIC PERM WAVE PROCEDURE 1. Client Consultation/Hair Analysis 2. Drape/ shampoo lightly 3. Towel blot 4. Section hair into 9 sections 5. Wrap hair, starting at section #2. Wrap entire head. 6. Apply protective cream around the hairline and neckline. 7. Apply cotton coil. Put on gloves 8. Apply waving lotion. 9. Apply new cotton coil. Put on plastic cap. 10. Process according to manufacturer’s directions. 11. Take a test curl. 12. Rinse with warm water 5-10 min. 13. Towel blot. 14. Apply cotton coil. 15. Apply neutralizer to each rod

96. 15 Basic Perm Procedure Cont’d (finished look) 16. Leave in for 5 minutes. 17. Remove rods 18. Rinse neutralizer with warm water. Towel blot. 19. Cut and style 20. Clean up and update client’s record card.