1. SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
YARN TESTING
Textile Finishing Technology
SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
KELAS X SEMESTER 1 & 2

2. YARN TESTING CLASSIFICATION OF YARN YARN COUNT TESTING
YARN TWIST TESTING
YARN SRENGTH AND ELONGATION TESTING
YARN EVENNESS TESTING
YARN APPEARANCE TESTING
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

3. CLASSIFICATION OF YARN :
YARNS CAN BE SUBDIVIDED AND CLASSIFIED BY :
Fibre Length
Yarn Construction
Spinning Method
Its Function
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4. Fibre Length Staple Yarn
Staple yarns are made by assembling and binding together staple fibres
Filament Yarn
A yarn composed of continuous filaments assembled with or without twist.
Combined Yarn
A piled yarn containing two or more yarns that vary in fiber composition, content, and/or twist level; or plied yarn composed of both filament yarn and spun yarn.
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5. Staple Yarn Short Staple
Short staple fibre has a maximum length of 60 millimetres, (cotton fibre is a short staple - about 25 to 45 mm)
Long Staple
Long staple fibre has a length of more than 60 millimetres, (wool fibre is a long staple - about 60 to 150 mm)
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6. Filament Yarn
Filament Yarn can be classified by fiber composition and its structure :
Natural Fibre Filament Yarn
Man - Made Fibre Filament Yarn
Monofilament Yarn
Multifilament Yarn
Tow
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7. Natural Fibre Filament Yarn:
Silk is a natural protein filament extruded by the silk-worm.
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8. Man - Made Filament Yarn :
Polyester made from polyvinyl alcohol
Rayon Yarn made from cellulose fibre
Nylon Yarn made from polyamide
Polyacrylic made from polyacrylonitril
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9. Man Made Filament Yarn
Man-made Filament yarns can be further divided into sub-groups :
Flat (not textured),
Textured,
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10. Filament Yarn Structure
Monofilament Yarn
A single filament with or without twist
Multifilament Yarn
A yarn consisting of many continuous filaments or strands, as opposed to monofilament which is one strand.
Tow
A large strand of continuous manufactured fiber filaments without definite twist, collected in loose, rope-like form, usually held together by crimp.
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11. Textured Yarn
Textured Yarn Yarns that develop stretch and bulk on subsequent processing. When woven or knitted into fabric, the cover, hand, and other aesthetics of the finished fabric better resemble the properties of a fabric constructed from spun yarn.
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12. Textured Yarn
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13. Texturing
The process of crimping, imparting random loops, or otherwise modifying continuous filament yarn to increase cover, resilience, abrasion resistance, warmth, insulation, and moisture absorption or to provide a different surface texture.
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14. Texturing Texturing methods can be placed roughly into six groups :
Air Jet Method
Edge Crimping Method
False Twist Method
Gear Crimping Method
Knit de Knit Method
Stuffer Box Method
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15. Air Jet Method:
In this method of texturing, yarn is led through the turbulent region of an air
jet at a rate faster than it is drawn off on the far side of the jet.
In the jet, the yarn structure is
opened, loops are formed, and the structure is closed again.
Some loops are locked inside and
others are locked on the surface of the yarn.
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16. Edge Crimping Method:
In this method of texturing, thermoplastic yarns in a heated and
stretched condition are drawn over a crimping edge and cooled.
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17. False-Twist Method:
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18. False-Twist Method:
This continuous method for producing textured yarns utilizes simultaneous twisting, heat-setting, and untwisting.
The yarn is taken from the supply package and fed at controlled tension through the heating unit, through a false-twist spindle or over a friction surface that is typically a stack of rotating discs called an aggregate, through a set of take up rolls, and onto a take-up package.
The twist is set into the yarn by the action of the heater tube and subsequently is removed above the spindle or aggregate resulting in a group of filaments with the potential to form helical springs.
Much higher processing speeds can be achieved with friction false twisting than with conventional spindle false twisting. Both stretch and bulked yarns can be produced by either process.
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19. Gear Crimping Method:
In this texturing method, yarn is fed through the meshing teeth of
two gears.
The yarn takes on the shape of the gear teeth.
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20. Knit-de-Knit Method:
In this method of texturing, the yarn is knit into a 2-inch diameter hose-leg, heat-set in an autoclave, and then unraveled and wound onto a final package.
This texturing method produces a crinkle yarn.
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21. Stuffer Box Method:
The crimping unit consists of two feed rolls and a brass tube stuffer box.
By compressing the yarn into the heated stuffer box, the individual filaments are caused to fold or bend at a sharp angle, while being simultaneously set by a heating device.
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22. Combined Yarn e.g : tetoron cotton yarn tetoron viscose rayon yarn
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23. Yarn Construction They can be split into four categories : Single Yarn
Doubled Yarn
Cabled Yarn
Novelty Yarn
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24. Single Yarn
The simplest strand of textile material may be formed from fibers with more or less twist; from filaments with or without twist; from narrow strips of material such as paper, cellophane, or metal foil; or from monofilaments.
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25. Doubled yarn
A yarn which two or more single yarns twisted together in one operation.
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26. Cabled Yarn doubled yarns are twisted together
Two or more already folded/
doubled yarns are twisted
together
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27. A yarn produced for a special effect.
Novelty Yarn
A yarn produced for a special effect.
Fancy Yarn
Metallic Yarn
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28. Fancy Yarn Fancy yarns can be made from staple or filament fibres
They are intentionly produced to have a distorted or irregular construction
Popular effects include knops, snarls, loops and slubs
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29. Boucle, Gimp and Loop Yarns
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30. Snarl Yarns
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31. Knop or Button Yarns
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32. Slub Yarns
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33. Marl Yarns
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34. Spiral and Corkscrew Yarns
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35. Metallic Yarn
Usually produced from aluminium sheets laminated with plastic film, cut into thin ribbons
Or can be core spun,
for example a polyester
core with a metalic outer
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36. Spinning Method
There are a large number of different spinning methods. Here we will look the most relevant ring spun yarns :
Carded Yarn
A cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed.
Combed Yarn
A yarn produced from combed sliver.
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37. Carded Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa Cotton Bale Blowing Carding Drawing
Roving
Spinning
Winding
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38. Combed Yarn Teknologi dan Rekayasa Cotton Bale Blowing Carding Combing
Drawing
Roving
Spinning
Winding
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39. Yarn Function Warp Yarn Weft Yarn Knit Yarn Sewing Thread
Embroidery Thread
Fancy Yarn
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40. Warp
The warp is the set of lengthwise threads attached to a loom before weaving begins, and through which the weft is woven.
W a r p
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41. Weft
The weft is the yarn that is woven back and forth through the warp to make cloth.
W e f t
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42. Knit Yarn Knit Yarns are yarns that were used to produce knit fabrics.
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43. Sewing Thread
A slender, strong strand or cord, especially one designed for sewing or other needlework.
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44. Embroidery Thread
Embroidery thread is yarn that is manufactured or hand-spun specifically for embroidery and other forms of needlework.
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45. YARN TESTING The important characteristics of yarn being tested are :
YARN COUNT
YARN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
YARN TWIST
YARN APPEARANCE
YARN EVENNESS
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46. YARN COUNT
The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a known length of the yarn.
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47. Yarn Count System Direct System Indirect System
There are number of systems and units for expressing yarn count. They are classified as follows :
Direct System
Indirect System
- Tex
- English (Ne)
- Denier
- French (Nf)
- Ts
- Metric (Nm)
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48. Measures, Weights, Equivalents
Linear Measures
Mass
1 inch (1”) = 2,54 cm
12 inches = 1 foot (1’)
= 30,48 cm
36 inches = 3 feet
= 1 yard
= cm
120 yards = 1 lea
= 109,73 m
7 lea’s = 1 hank
= 840 yards
= 768 m
1 grain = 64,799 mg
1 pound (1 lb) = 16 ounces
= 7000 grains = 453,6 gram
1 ounce (1 oz) = 437,5 grains
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49. Yarn Count Formulas INDIRECT SYSTEM DIRECT SYSTEM Ne1 = Length (Hank)
Weight (Pound)
Tex = Weight (Gram)
Length (1000 M)
Ne2 = Length (300 yards)
Td = Weight (Gram)
Length (9000 M)
Ne3 = Length (560 yards)
Ts = Weight (Pound)
Length ( Yards)
Ne4 = Length (256 yards)
Nm = Length (Meter)
Weight (Gram)
Nf = Length (Meter)
Weight (½ Gram)
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50. Yarn Count Conversion Formulas
Ne1 Nm Td
Tex -
0,59 Nm
5315
590
1,69 Ne1
9000
1000
9 Tex 9
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51. Yarn Count Testing Equipment required : Wrap Reel Analitic Balance
Quadrant Balance
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52. Wrap Reel Creel Yarn Guide Yarn Tensioner Counter Movable flyer Handle
Yarn Moving Bar
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53. Analitical Balance
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54. Quadran Balance
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55. Test Procedure A 1. The Yarn is reeled off with a wrap reel.
2. The strand of the wrapped yarn
3. Yarn’s weight is determined
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56. Test Procedure B 2. The strand of the wrapped yarn
1. The Yarn is reeled off with a wrap reel.
3. The Yarn count is determined with quadrant Balance
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57. YARN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
Yarn Strength testing is broadly classified into two methods :
single end strength testing
skein strength or Lea strength testing
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58. Lea Strength Testing Specimen Preparation :
First, a specific length of yarn is taken off the spindle. This machine counts to the proper number of revolutions and stops, thus producing the same length of yarn for each test.
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59. LEA STRENGTH TESTING Test Procedure :
1. The yarn is mounted on a device that stretches it until it breaks
2. Here the gauge shows this batch broke at about 99.5 kilos - nice and close and well within accepted tolerance.
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60. For tenacity at break: Gram load at break = tenacity (g/d) Denier
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61. Yarn Elongation
For elongation at break: = Length at break - original length x 100 Original length
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62. Single End Strength Testing
1. A specific length of yarn is taken .
2. The yarn is then mounted on a device that stretches it until it breaks.
3. Measure the strength in kilos and the elongation in cm.
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63. YARN TWIST
Twist is defined as the spiral disposition of the components of yarn which is generally expressed as the number of turns per unit length of yarn. e.g : Turns Per Inch (TPI) Turns Per Meter (TPM)
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64. Direction of Twist
Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction depends upon the direction of rotation of the twisting element.
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65. Testing the Twist of Single Yarn
TWIST TESTER
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66. Testing the Twist of Single Yarn
1. Insert the yarn in the left clamp.
Run manually the yarn for some meters.
2. Position manually the rotating clamp,
insert the yarn.
3. Pull gradually the yarn through the right clamp until the zeromachine led positioned on the left carriage switch on. Tightened the right clamp.
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67. Testing the Twist of Single Yarn
Start the test by turning the handle in order to untwist the yarn.
The yarn will untwist by stretching out and then it will twist again in the opposite direction by shortening.
When the machine has reached the zero point (the zero led will light up)
Stop, the display will show the corresponding twist
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68. Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn
TWIST TESTER
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69. Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn
1. Insert the yarn in the left clamp.
Run manually the yarn for some meters.
2. Position manually the rotating clamp,
insert the yarn.
3. Pull gradually the yarn through the right clamp until the zeromachine led positioned on the left carriage switch on. Tightened the right clamp.
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70. Testing the Twist of DoubledYarn
Start the test by turning the handle in order to untwist the yarn.
Observe the examined sample to check when the threads that form it begin to be parallel. Now stop the rotation.
When you reach the parallelization. Stop.
Note down the result
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71. Testing the Twist of Doubled Yarn
To verify the parallelism, insert a needle amidst the threads starting from the left clamp, re-start the clamp rotation and in the same time move the needle towards the rotating clamp
If accidentally you go beyond the parallelization point, change the sense if sotation of the handle to restart in the opposite direction
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72. YARN EVENNESS
Yarn Evenness can be defined as the variation in weight per unit length of the yarn or as the variation in its thickness.
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73. YARN EVENNESS
There are a number of different ways of assessing yarn evenness :
Visual Examination (Yarn Appearance)
Uster Evenness Tester
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74. YARN APPEARANCE Yarn appearance testing is covering : Neps Slubs
Hairiness
Color
Defect
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75. Yarn Appearance Testing
Equipment required :
Blackboard
Motorised Wrapping Machine (Yarn Inspector)
ASTM Cotton Yarn Appearance Standards
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76. Yarn Appearance Testing
Test Procedure :
Wrap the yarn in equally spaced parallel wraps over the board
Compare the appearance of irregularities against standard rating photographs
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77. Tabel Yarn Appearance Index
Grade
Index
A or upper
130
B +
120 B
110
C +
100 C 90
D + 80 D 70
Below D 60
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78. Evenness Testing
Evenness Testing is : Determination of the variation in weight per unit length and thickness of yarns or fibers aggregates such as roving, sliver, or top.
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79. Evenness Testing Equipment required : Uster Evenness Tester
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80. Evenness Testing Principle of Testing :
The Uster evenness tester measures the thickness variation of a yarn by measuring capacitance.
The yarn to be assessed is passed through two parallel plates of a capacitor whose value is continously measured electronically.
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81. Evenness Testing
The presence of the yarn between the plates changes the capacitance of the system which is governed by the mass of material between the plates and its relative permittivity (dielectric constant).
If the relative permittivity remains the same then the measurements are directly related to the mass of material between the plates.
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82. REFERENCES
Pengujian Tekstil 1, Ir. Roetjito, Ir. Gaizia M Djaloes, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan, Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan, 1979.
Petunjuk Praktek Pengujian Tekstil, Winarni Chatib, Bk.Teks, Oriyati Soenaryo, Bk.Teks, Departemen Pendidikan dan Kebudayaan, Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan, 1979.
Physical Testing of Textile, B.P. Saville, Textile Institute, Manchester, England.
Teknologi Pencelupan Dan Pencapan Jilid 1, Sunarto, Jakarta : Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan, Direktorat Jenderal Manajemen Pendidikan Dasar dan Menengah, Departemen Pendidikan Nasional, 2008.
Evaluasi Fisika Tekstil, Wibowo Moerdoko, S.Teks, dkk, Institut Teknologi Tekstil Bandung, 1973
Mengidentifikasi Benang Tekstil, Tim Fakultas Teknik Universitas Negeri Surabaya Departemen Pendidikan Nasional, Proyek Pengembangan Sistem Dan Standar Pengelolaan SMK Direktorat Pendidikan Menengah Kejuruan Jakarta 2001
Operating Instructions and Maintenance, MESDANLAB, Italy
Complete Textile Glossary, Celanese Acetate, New York, 2001.
Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia
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83. THANK YOU
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