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Victorian Fashion This era in fashion ranged primarily from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s. It's named for the influential English queen of the time, and her style came to define one of the most memorable periods in modern history. When Victoria became Queen in 1837 she was only 18 years old and her influence wasn't immediate. As her reign progressed, her attitude came to symbolize the entire era. Victoria believed in excessive modesty and the Fashion of the time was a reflection of her opinions. Queen Victoria greatly influenced how women perceived themselves and how men perceived them. A woman's "job" was in the home, as wife and mother. Wealthy women of the time followed Victoria's lead in dress and leisure pursuits. These are typically the women who defined Victorian fashion history, as the poor female laborers had no access to the genteel trappings of the upper classes.
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Fashion History 1900’s – 1920’s
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1900’s – S-Curve The silhouette softened into the S-shaped curve with softer shoulders, less restrictive corsets, and the bustle, never returned. The three-piece suit for gentlemen was introduced. The suit was relatively non constricting with a sack coat, simple vest, and pleated trousers. In 1906 the permanent wave was developed.
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1900’s 1903
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1900’s, Bloomers & Bicycles Life began to move at a faster pace with many new inventions, such as the telephone, electric light, and the automobile, that gave people more luxury and freedom. The new two-wheeled cycle, was the craze of the country. Amelia Bloomer designed a practical outfit for the avid cyclist consisting of a tunic dress worn over loose trousers gathered at the ankle. Later this was revised into a split skirt with gathers under the knee, called Bloomers. 1896 Bicycle Dress
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1900’s – The Bathing Suit The one piece bathing suit was introduced by Annette Kellerman which shocked the world.
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1910’s Men and women wore Dustcoats to protect their clothing when driving or riding in cars.
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Events that effected the time:
World War I
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World War I & Fashion World War I saw fashion come to a standstill with patriotism at an all-time high. During and at the end of WWI. The barrel silhouette comes in. It is a baggy dress/jacket combination that made women look large and droopy in the chest.
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Women’s Movement The women’s movement demanded the right to vote, wear make-up, cut their hair short for the first time in a Bobbed style, and wear skirts above the ankle.
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1910’s – The Hobble Skirt French designer Paul Poiret broke the new rule of freedom by designing the Hobble Skirt. The hemline was so narrow that women could only take very tiny steps. The Pope spoke out in defense of the women, so Poiret split the skirt to the knee, bringing a response of outrage from the public.
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Titanic
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1920’s – Tubular Life began to move ahead and fast. The fashion silhouette at this time was straight up and down or Tubular. The brassiere was introduced, but it was used to flatten the figure, not uplift or enhance it. Safe make-up, costume jewelry, and suntans were in great demand.
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Flapper vs. Thinking Woman
The Flapper wore a headband around her forehead, usually with a feather in front. Her face was powdered, her skirt was the shortest in history, and her knees were rouged. Silk stockings were the rage; they were rolled down just above the knee. The “Thinking Woman” was college educated and considered herself to be the opposite of the flapper. Her dress was emancipated but not extreme.
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Influence of England The Prince was the ultimate trend setter of the 1920’s He often wore Oxford bags, extremely wide trousers, often reaching 25 inches at the knee and cuffed at the bottom. Cardigan sweater, plus-fours/oxford bags, argyle socks, wingtip shoes, club stripe tie. Edward 8th Prince of Wales the major social mediator of fashion. Shown here in a suit and overcoat, ascot at the neck.
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1920’s - Designers Paul Poiret vowed, “I will strive for omission, not addition.” This he did with dresses which hung from the shoulders to the wiast, with soft, silky, flowing, sheer fabrics. Coco Chanel made a hit in fashion using black and navy in simple frill-free designs. She said, “Each frill discarded makes one look younger.”
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Events that effected the Time:
Good times ended with the crash of the stock market, which led to the Great Depression. Crash in 1929.
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The Roaring 20’s The term the roaring twenties refers to a time period that began in 1920 and ended with the stock market crash of They were called the roaring twenties due to the post-war prosperity that occurred as soldiers returned home. Credit was widely available so people could live above their means, trusting in continued prosperity.
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1920 The 1920s were a period when fashion became more comfortable
1920 The 1920s were a period when fashion became more comfortable. Women began to wear trousers and short skirts. This was also the flapper era, so women shortened the hems on their dresses.
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The Roaring 20s: The era that brought us Coco Chanel, shorter hemlines, and flappers.
Body Type: The 1920's was a time when women didn’t want to look like women at all. We can't imagine that men today would find this sexy, but some women from the 20's era would even bind their chests with strips of cloth to achieve a “little boy” look - quite contradictory to some of the measures that today’s women take in order to amplify their chests. The loose silhouette of the flapper dress was in stark contrast to the corseted waist of the Victorian era. Elastic webbed girdles replaced corsets and gave off the look of a flat boyish abdomen. Beauty: Going right along with the boyish look, the hair bob or finger wave was a big trend. Bold make-up, which had once been considered “trashy,” was now considered sexy. Powder was applied to make the skin look as pale as possible, and eyebrows were lifted and penciled in to appear thin and bold. Kohl was used to line the eye and achieve an overall dramatic look.
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Flappers had a reputation that added to their style as well
Flapper Fashion Short sleek Short shapeless dress Flat chest Exposed limbs Flappers had a reputation that added to their style as well Flappers smoked from ling cigarette holders Drank Applied makeup in public Danced to jazz with reckless abandonment of propriety
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Uneven Hemlines
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The Roaring 20’s – The Great Gatsby https://www. youtube. com/watch
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Coco Chanel
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Gabrielle Chanel ( ) was a French fashion designer and perfume creator. Popularly known as Coco Chanel, she was born Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in the small city of Saumer, France. She was born destitute, out of wedlock, and at the age of twelve, her 33-year-old mother died of malnutrition and overwork. Shortly after, Coco's father abandoned her and her brothers and sisters. The children were then left in the care of relatives. She would become one of the most influential figures in haute couture in the 20th century, helping to create what is considered modern Fashion today. The House of Chanel in Paris, under Karl Lagerfeld, remains one of the top design houses today. Two of her most famous creations are the Chanel No. 5 perfume, still a classic fragrance today, and the Chanel suit, actually a whole look for women: an elegant outfit with boxy lines, made of pastel pink wool with black trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces.
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10 Fun Facts about Coco Chanel:
She was born in France in 1883 and was part of a big family, as one of five children. When Coco was 12, her mother passed away from tuberculosis and her father left the family; she spent the next six years in an orphanage. She became a licensed hat-maker and owned her first shop in 1910. She introduced her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, in 1922, and it was one of the first perfumes ever to mix natural and artificial essences. She invented the “Little Black Dress” in 1926, which French Vogue dubbed “Chanel’s Ford”, for its practicality and marketability.
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She is credited with popularizing the concept of “costume jewelry” in the 1920s, creating seasonal jewelry that mixed fake pearls with real stones. She introduced the idea of using jersey fabric to create clothing, which had prior been used only for men’s undergarments. She and her brand are most well known for costume jewelry, two-tone shoes, quilted bags, and simple suits made of tweed or jersey. Her classic Chanel suit became famous for its flattering cut, simple fabric, and specially weighted lining, to give it that perfect hang. She died in 1971 at the Ritz Hotel in Paris at the age of 88.
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Chanel was credited with creating the concept of the “little black dress”
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“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.” ― Coco Chanel
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“The best color in the whole world is the one that looks good on you
“The best color in the whole world is the one that looks good on you.” ― Coco Chanel
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“Fashion changes, but style endures.” ― Coco Chanel
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“I don't do fashion, I AM fashion.” ― Coco Chanel
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