1. SCRAPBOOK PRESERVATION: PRESERVING THE OLD, CREATING THE NEW
An Octavofest Presentation
by Sharlane Gubkin, Kelvin Smith Library,
Case Western Reserve University
October 8, 2016

2. Summary of Presentation
Brief History of Scrapbooking
General guidelines for storing and handling
Q &A
How to Preserve Your Old Scrapbooks
How to create a new scrapbook using proper materials that will last a long time!

3. Brief History of Scrapbooks
1400s: Began in Renaissance Italy and England
Zibaldone,(Italy); Commonplace Books (England): Reflected the interests and personality of the commonplacer. Personal libraries were not affordable, so quotes from books were copied by hand. Collections of letters, poems, recipes, quotes, cards; scraps of paper items that were interesting, important or sentimental to the individual. “Exceptional thought copied into bound books for further reflection” Bits and pieces from many books were copied all together in one book.(Hillary Poyters, Lightly Locked, 2008) Often embellished with beautiful paper that was cut into pieces and shapes and glued to the pages.
Friendship Books: Guest books of people coming to your home-often included a personal reflection from the visitor; poems, quotes, or quick illustrations
1600s :
Commonplacing was formally taught at universities like Harvard and Oxford and required for undergraduate literature and humanities classes.
1800s:
B&W photography was invented and scrapbooks contained many photographs and newspaper clippings. Magazines and newspapers were widespread-instead of copying by hand, articles and quotes were clipped from the publications and pasted in the book. First time they were called scrapbooks. Mid 1800s-leather blank albums manufactured specifically for scrapbooking.
1900s:
Popular until the early 1900s: kept by Mark Twain, Thomas Jefferson, Emerson, Thoreau, Bacon and Milton.
Popularity waned after WWI, scrapbook albums not produced very much, items kept in boxes. Photo albums became the vogue.
1980:
Scrapbooking regained popularity and first scrapbook store “Keeping Memories Alive”opened. (Mrs. Christenson)
Current:
Many scrapbook suppliers, archival supplies sold, social groups, Pintrest, Internet

4. Safe Handling of Your Scrapbooks
Handle carefully!
Wash and dry hands before handling.
Carry with both hands, keeping closed book flat so loose items will not fall out.
Place on a clean, dry, uncluttered, sturdy flat surface to view. Make sure the surface is large enough to support the entire book when it is opened. Do not force open or try to open completely flat if resistant to opening.
Turn pages carefully-support them underneath with your hand or a piece of acid-free paper inserted when turning Make sure items on the other side of the page are not “caught” when inserting a paper or your hand to assist with turning.
Avoid eating or drinking when looking at your scrapbook-food attracts pests; drinks can spill and cause a lot of damage!

5. STORING SCRAPBOOKS (Old and New)
Store in a good environment:
NO ATTICS OR BASEMENTS!
Low steady temperatures and humidity-aim for 65F-70F and 35-50% RH
Away from outside walls, water and water pipes, radiators and heat vents, food sources
Away from windows, light
In a special box made of acid and lignin free materials
Store FLAT
Not directly against wooden shelves.

6. Preservation of Old Scrapbooks
SOME PROBLEMS WITH OLD SCRAPBOOKS
Many different types of materials were used both to make the scrapbook and make up its contents; many were poor quality materials that can deteriorate quickly.
Album covers broken, powdering leather, cracked plastic, etc.
Paper-based items such as newsprint may be brittle, cracking, transfer acid to other items on opposite pages
Scrapbook’s pages themselves cracking at edges, acidic, yellowed
Scrapbook bound using a laced-in string causing wear on the pages, or in a post-binding and breaking at the inner attachment; pages torn at holes in ringed binder.
Inferior glues used to attach items may have bled through to front of item, adhesive could have failed and items fell off, tape yellowed and fell off or caused stains, or top of tape carrier fell off
Photos faded, surface cracked or emulsion coming off
Flowers or leaves disintegrated, cloth scraps faded/fraying/fragile
Thicker items inserted in the book or too many pages in the scrapbook may have stressed/damaged the binding
Items may be too large and extend beyond the perimeter of the book and become damaged
Folded items, materials were glued-in overlapping other materials.
Photos and items stuck to “magic cling” poor quality plastic page protectors
Loose items and unidentified photos and items

7. Preserving old scrapbooks-methods
Follow safe handling and good storage practices as discussed
Best for most: Keep as-is in a special acid-free lignin free protective box.
If there is enough room in the album, pages can be interleaved using acid-free lignin-free tissue without buffering (which can be harmful for photos, textiles and some colored items)
If the binding is too damaged, book is overstuffed or pages falling out, they can be removed from the original binding, put in the correct order in page protectors , and placed loose in a protective archival box or bound into a new preservation-quality album. Photograph album before disbinding.
If taking apart a scrapbook, be sure to note the order and placement of the originals on each page and any identification of the items. Pages can be stored separately in labeled acid-free/lignin-free folders or in clear archival page protectors, loose in boxes or in a new album.
Newspaper clippings can be photocopied on acid-free paper and used to replace originals. OR originals can be placed in page protectors with a sheet of microchamber paper or AF-LF paper behind them to absorb the acids in the newsprint. They can be de-acidified with a spray such as Bookkeepers but this will not make them less brittle, will only slow the rate of deterioration. Items that have been de-acidified should not come in contact with photographs or textiles.
Loose unmarked items can be added to an acid-free lignin-free paper pocket in the back of the album.
If too deteriorated and information may be lost, consider scanning (use overhead scanner at CPL in the CPL Digital Commons!), photocopy on acid-free paper on an overhead copier. Open all folded items when scanning.

8. MAKING LASTING ALBUMS: USE QUALITY MATERIALS
To accommodate a variety of types of scrapbook items that may be too thick and will stress a “normal” binding’s spine and covers, choose an album that can be easily expanded and/or has refill pages. Screw-Post binders, 3-ring binders, bound binders with spacers.
Covers: Cloth or acid/lignin free board. Leather deteriorates quickly over time. Plastics deteriorate and crack . Do not use covers made from vinyl or PVC as they can off-gas and affect nearby materials over time.
Pages:
Should be relatively thick -80 lbs ideal (copy paper is 20 lbs)
Can use different types of pages, such as photo pages/sleeves,
Colored, decorated and patterned pages can fade with time or bleed onto other nearby items if they get damp. Choose those designated “lightfast”, “fade-resisitant”
ALL: Acid AND lignin-free. Photo-safe-passed the Image Permanence Institute’s PAT (Photographic Activity Test-materials do not cause harmful reactions with photographs) Pages with color photos and textile fragments should be acid-free but not buffered; pages with most other paper-based materials buffered is good. Best: Acid/lignin free, ph neutral, like 100% rag or alpha-cellulose artist’s paper.

9. New Albums-putting things in
Accommodating thicker items if album is bound:
Use only the right side of the page
Tear out one or more blank pages before the page containing the thick items
If Post-binding, add acid/lignin-free spacers between pages with thicker items.
Plastic page protectors, enclosures, photo pages/sleeves, photo corners
Use to house papers, letters, photos, artwork (not charcoal or pastel), notes, newspaper clippings, recipes, etc.
Use materials made from uncoated pure acid free plastics from the following 3 categories:
polyethylene
polypropylene
polyester (also called Mylar D or Melinex 516).
These are considered stable and non-damaging to photographs and paper. Polyester is crystal clear and is more rigid than polyethylene and polypropylene.
Must Pass the PAT (Photographic Activity Test ) if housing photographs
Adhesives:
Note: NO rubber cement, hot glue guns, regular types of tape
High quality acrylic adhesive only on polyester or paper photo corners (or place in photo sleeves)
Acrylic-based
Preservation wheat paste (mix with cold water) –Cockles paper items, but removable and safe.
Double-stick tape (3M #415), acid-free document repair tapes like Filmoplast (not easily removable)
Acid-free glue stick (Not permanent)
Put items in Mylar enclosures then the adhesive will not be directly on the item.
Mount photos, postcards and smaller paper objects using mounting corners.- or make copies and store originals elsewhere. Interleave sheets with photos or items with gloss surfaces or colored artwork on facing sides with acid and lignin-free unbuffered tissue
Marking:
Be sure to date and identify photographs and items in scrapbooks. Mark the scrapbook page or page protector instead of on the original.
Use soft #2 pencil only to identify on the back of original photos, or store the original and put a copy in your scrapbook.
Use pigment based permanent inks to mark, more stable than dye-based.
Magic markers and Sharpies are solvent-based, can damage photos and paper
DO NOT USE: Rubber bands, paper clips, staples, regular tapes

10. How to attach challenging objects
Put dried flowers, scraps of material like lace, buttons, small items and other such things in clear polyester or polypropylene ziplock bags and sew onto the page or attach the envelope to the page with 3m#415 double stick tape.
Make sure flowers or leaves are completely dried out before placing in envelopes.
Special sleeves are available for stamps and coins
Larger objects or folded: get a bigger album or can be put in a pocket attached to a page or in the back of the album.
Small items like ticket stubs, attach with photo corners

14. Interleaving Paper, Tissue Paper, Acid-Free Tissue, Unbuffered
Use for wrapping, interleaving, padding
This ultra-thin (.001”) acid-free tissue is ideal for many protective purposes: interleave maps, documents and prints in folders and boxes; wrap textiles and other artifacts to protect against abrasion; and, cushion textiles and artifacts in storage boxes and during transport. Use Buffered tissue with cottons, linens and other cellulosic materials such as wood-pulp or cotton rag paper. Un-buffered tissue should be used with items made out of animal based materials, such as silk, wool, leather, or whenever fiber content is unknown.
Passes Standard "Photo Activity Test”

17. Links: Good information on scrapbook preservation:
Archival Scrapbook Supply Vendors: