1. PM 235 Korakoch Kangwantas
Make up product
PM Korakoch Kangwantas

2. Make-up: Types Foundation Blushers Mascara Eye-liner Eye shadow
Lip colour
Nail colour

3. Make-up: Purpose Improve appearance Impart colour Even-out skin tones
Hide imperfection
Protection

4. Make-up: Step Cleaning/ Toner / Serum / Moisturising / Sunscreen
Concealer <-> Foundation
Face powder
Face contouring: highlight / bronzer
Eye make up: eye shadow, eye liner, mascara
Blushing
Lip colour

5. Make-up: Powder Face powder, eye shadow and blusher
Shade must not change as it is worn
Smooth feeling
Easy application
Good adherence for a reasonable time without reapplication

6. Make-up: Face powder Smoothness Added skin translucency
More refined or finer texture
Setting the make-up base and adding longevity to the make-up
Oil control

7. Powder: Ingredients Talc Kaolin
Major component (up to 70%) of face powder, eye shadow and blusher
White, free of asbestos and high spreadability with low covering power
Hydrophobic
Kaolin
Almost white
Good absorbency
Matte

8. Powder: Ingredients Calcium carbonate Magnesium carbonate
Excellence absorbency
Matte
Moderate covering (avoid high level)
Magnesium carbonate
Good absorbency
Often used to absorb perfume and mixed into face powder

9. Powder: Ingredients Metallic soap Starch Zinc and Magnesium stearate
↑ adhesion and water repellence
3-10% of formulation
Zinc stearate gives a smooth feeling
High level: blotchy effect and too hard pressed powder
Starch
Smoothness
Cake when moistened -> bacterial growth

10. Powder: Ingredients Mica
Translucent when added up to 20% of formulation
Wet ground (creamy) dry ground (matte)
Sericite (similar to white mica): silky shine, soft, smooth
Silicone-coated sericite: ↑ water repellence and adhesion

11. Powder: Ingredients Polymers Texture enhancers used at 3-40%
Nylon, lauryl lysine, boron nitride, polyethylene, polypropylene, ethylene acrylates copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and silica beads, polyurethane, silicone powder, borosilicate, microcrystalline cellulose, Teflon
Coated on inexpensive beads to reduce cost and increase effectiveness e.g. nylon/mica, silicone/mica, etc.

12. Powder: Ingredients Perfumes Preservatives Colour additives
Raw materials are earthy smelling
High stability and low volatility
Preservatives
Parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, etc.
Dry -> Not necessary
Small amount of preservative is recommended
Colour additives
Allergen / formaldehyde releasing

13. Powder: Ingredients Colorants Titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide
Organic, inorganic, carmine or pearlescent colour additives
Textures of colorant are not satisfactory
FD&C / D&C / Colorant for eyes
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14. Colour additives US FDA: FD&C / D&C
Inorganic / powder metals / naturally derived colorants
Food
Ingested/ externally applied drugs
General cosmetic
Eye area only (if mentioned)
External (no mucous membrane): ultramarines, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide not permitted in lip or bath products

15. Colour additives EU All cosmetic products
All cosmetic products, except those intended to be applied in the vicinity of the eyes (eye make-up and make-up and eye removers)
Allowed exclusively in cosmetic products intended not to come into contact with mucous membranes (including the eye area)
Allowed exclusively in cosmetic products intended not to come into contact only briefly with skin (not permitted in nail preparations)

16. Inorganic pigments Opaque / light fast / solvent resistance
Not as bright as organic colours
May be affected by alkali and acid
Iron oxide
Red (Fe3O4), brown-burgundy (Fe2O3) , black (Fe3O4), yellow (FeOOH)
Good stability and opacity
Chromium oxide
Green Cr2O3
Ultramarine
Blue (Nax(AlSiO4)ySz)
Good light stability, unstable to acid

17. Organic pigments Transparency
Triarylmethane (blue-green: water soluble, poor light stability)
Variable chemical and physical stability
Anthraquinone (green: good light stability)
Clean and bright colour
Quinoline (yellow: oil soluble)
Azo (yellow-red: varied properties)
Indigold (red: light resistance)
Xanthenes (orange-red: structure change with pH, poor light stability)

18. Natural dyes Generally used in foods Saffron (yellow)
Low stability to heat, light and pH
Carrot (orange)
Chlorophyll (green)
Strong odours
Beetroot (red)
Turmeric (yellow)
Sugar (brown)

19. Pearlescent pigments Organic pearls: fish scales (guanine) CI75170
Inorganic pearls:
Bismuth oxychloride (silvery grey / light instability - darken after prolonged exposure)
Titanium dioxide-coated mica (various colour depending on thickness of coating)
Pigment pearls: iron oxide-laminated titanium dioxide-coated mica
Specialty pigments (epoxy-coated light fast pigment laminated foil -> nail colour)

20. Face powder Loose face powder Pressed face powder: +Binder
Properties of a binder
- creaminess
- adhesion
- compression
- water resistance
- too much binder: difficult to remove powder with puff / glazing

21. Foundation Hide skin flaws Even various colour tones in the skin
Environmental protectant
Smoothen the skin

22. Foundation Fast drying -> proper play time
Non-settling, easily pour, stable in storage
Should not feel tacky, greasy, or too dry
Improve appearance naturally
Shade consistency
Not peel-off, go orangy on skin or rub-off on clothes
(treated pigments and volatile silicone -> water-resistance)

23. Foundation Formulation – Liquid / Powder / Cream
Coverage (% pigment) – Sheer 8-13% / Light 13-18% / Medium 18-23% / Full up to 50%

24. Foundation Liquid: dry to combination skin set off with powder
Cream: dry skin
Powder: oily skin

25. Foundation Loose powder Pressed powder Water-base: water + oil
Water-base- oil free: water + emollient ester / fatty alcohol
Water-base-transfer resistance: +film former
Silicone-base: light weight / pore and line filler / smoothness

26. Foundation: Ingredients
Anhydrous foundation
Emollients: light texture and low viscosity: oils, esters and silicones
Waxes: Beeswax, paraffin, polyethylene, etc.
Pigments: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide
Texture agents: nylon, talc, mica, boron nitride, Teflon, starch, etc.
Wetting agent: low HLB emulsifiers, polyglyceryl esters

27. Mascara
Bring out the contrast between the iris and the white of the eye, sharpens white of the eyes
Thickens the appearance of the lashes
Lengthen the appearance of the eye
Add depth and character to the overall look
Sharpens the colour of the eye shadow when worn

28. Mascara Application Appearance Wear Ease of removal
Film-former / pigment and the vehicle (evaporates)

29. Mascara
Anhydrous solvent based suspension: waterproof but not smudge-proof
and difficult to remove
w/o emulsion: waterproof but not smudge-proof
and can be remove with soap and water
o/w emulsion: flake-proof and smudge-proof
waterproof with emulsion polymers: acrylics,
polyvinyl acetates or polyurethanes

30. Cream eyeshadows
Volatile solvents: cyclomethicone, hydrocarbons, isoparaffins
Waxes
Emollients: esters, oils, silicones
Gellants: bentonite derivertives, hectonite derivertives
Colorants and pearls
Fillers: mica, talc, sericite
Functional fillers: boron nitride, PMMA, nylon, starch, silica, teflon

31. Eyeliners Frame the eye Adding or changing shape
Bringing out the colour contrast between the iris and white of the eye
Making lashes appear thicker
Liquid / gel / pencil

32. Eyeliner
Liquid eyeliner recipe - Solvent (water) / Gellant (magnesium aluminium silicate and bentonite) / wetting agents (water-soluble esters and high HLB emulsifiers) / polyols (propylene glycol) / colorants (iron oxides and other inorganic) / alcohol (solubilise resins and improve dry time) / film formers (PVP, PVA, acrylics, PVP/VA, PVP/urethanes)
Pencil recipe – oils, esters silicones / high melting point triglycerides / stearic acid / synthetic waxes / colorants and pearls / fillers (mica, talc, sericite) / functional fillers (boron nitride, Teflon, PMMA, silicas)

33. lipsticks Add colour to the face for a healthier look Shape the lips
Condition the lips
Harmonise the face between the eyes, hair, and clothes
Create the illusion of smaller or larger lips

34. lipsticks
Ingredients: emollients (castor oils, esters, lanolin, etc.) / waxes (carnauba, beeswax, lanolin, paraffin, etc.) / wax modifiers: improve texture, application and stability (cetyl acetate and acetylated lanolin, oleyl alcohol, petroleum) / actives: add moisture (hyaluronate, vit C, vit E) / fillers (mica, silica, nylon, etc.)
Stick: Sheer dense matte shiny / Liquid: lipgloss

35. Beware!! Colour additives Asbestos in talcum
Mercury, lead and heavy metal in lipstick
Comedogenicity
Storage