1. Light Cured GELS
Chapter 29

2. Introduction Light cured gels UV LED
Enhancement product that hardens when exposed to UV and LED light source

3. Why Study? (run highlighter over bullet points)
Clients may be interested
Understanding of chemistry of products will allow for choosing the best system and products
Understanding how light cured gels are made, applied, and cured will allow for a safe and efficient salon service
Clients become loyal and steadfast when they receive excellent light cured services

4. Comprehend the Chemistry of Light Cured Gels
Light cured gel enhancements rely on ingredients from the acrylate family
Wrap resins – subcategory called “cyanacrylates”
Monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements are from the same category called “methacrylate”
UV gels contain monomers – related form called “oligomer”

5. “mono” meaning “one”
“poly” meaning “many”
“oligo” meaning “few”
Oligomer is a short chain of monomers not long enough to be considered a polymer
Monomers are liquid
Polymers are solids
Oligomers are in between – thick, gel-like, and sticky

6. Traditionally – urethane acrylate
Newer – urethane methacrylates
Urethane – type of starting material used to create the most common light cured gel resins
Known for high abrasion resistance and durability

7. Light cured gels react when exposed to UV or LED light source
Chemical called photoinitiator initiates the polymerization reaction
Combination of the resin, photoinitiator and the proper curing bulb – cause gel to cure completely
Employ a single component resin compound that is cured to a solid material when exposed to a UV or LED light source

8. Difference between light cured gels is
the type of photoinitiator used in the formula
Measure of light that photoinitiator responds to
LED gels cure when exposed to a certain measure of light found in LED lamps
When LED gel is directly exposed to this light, it causes the oligomers to start to cure immediately
When exposed for recommended amount of time, they cure completely solid

9. The photoinitiator found in UV gels cause the gel to cure when directly exposed UV radiation at that certain found in UV lamps
All gels will cure if exposed to natural and florescent or any full spectrum light – just happens slower as not direct intense exposure
Keep containers and brushes covered – so do not slowly cure and harden

10. Gels to react to either UV or LED light
Read manufacturer’s recommendation and follow which light to use
Did you know box – PP 989

11. Light cured gels Easy to apply File Maintain
Create beautiful long lasting enhancements
Very little to no odor
Not as durable as methacrylate enhancements
More flexible

12. Application process differs
Nail plate is properly prepared
Each layer of product applied requires exposure to UV or LED light to cure or harden
Special lamp designed to emit proper type of UV or LED light

13. Describe Light Cured Gels
Find the system that works for you
Gel that is thick and does not self-level by itself or
Gels that quickly self-level
Viscosity – measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid – affects how the fluid flows

14. One-color method Two-color-method Did you Know box – PP 990
One color applied to entire nail
Wear as colored polish
Two-color-method
two colors applied
Usually pink and white
Did you Know box – PP 990

15. Types of Light Cured Gels
UV Bonding Gels
Increase adhesion to natural nail plate
Vary in consistency and chemical components
No strong odor
Avoid using too much product to prevent running into the skin
Can increase the risk of developing skin irritation or sensitivity

16. UV Building Gels Thick-viscosity resin
Allows building of arch and curve to nail
Do not pat gel– gently brush or float gel onto nail
Avoid air in gel
Too little curing –
Service breakdown
Skin irritation/skin sensitivity
Improper hand position inside bulb – improper curing

17. Building gels - used with self-leveling gels – reduce amount of filing and shaping
Fiberglass strands compounded into gel – have hardness and durability that closely resemble monomer liquid and polymer powder systems
Great for repairing cracks and breaks

18. Self-leveling gels – thinner consistency
Settle and level during application
Enhance thickness to overlay
Smoother surface
Building gel first then self-leveling
Create enhancement
Reduce filing and contouring
Caution Box – PP 991
Did you know Box – PP 991

19. Pigmented UV Gels UV Gel Polish Building & self leveling gels
Two-color method
Usually pink & white
UV Gel Polish
Very thin viscosity
Packaged in a pot or bottle
Cure in UV or LED lamp
Immediately dry to touch
Color stays without chipping 3 – 4 times longer than traditional polish
Cream, frosted and glitter – can be mixed together

20. Glossing Gel Sealing gel, finishing gel, shine gel
Creates a high shine
Inhibition layer – is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV gel has cured
2 types – traditional & Tack-free gloss gels

21. Inhibition layer – tacky surface left on the nail after UV or LED gel has cured
Traditional gloss does not discolor after prolonged exposure
Tack free gloss often discolor
Opacity – amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to see through

22. Name the Supplies Required for Light Cured Gels
Light Curing Gel lamps
Designed to produce the correct amount of UV or LED light needed to cure products

23. Brush
Synthetic bristles (write-in PP 993)
Small
Flat or oval

24. Gel Primer or Bonding Gel
Improve adhesion to natural plate
Follow mfg directions
Light Cured Gel
Nail Forms
Nail Tips
Nail Adhesive

25. Abrasive Files & Buffers
Medium to fine abrasive buffer–
180 – 240 grit
Natural nail preparation
Medium to fine grit abrasive file
grit
smoothing
Fine buffer (write in PP 994)
350 grit or higher
finishing
High shine buffer – no polish is to be worn

26. Lint-free cleansing wipes
Cleaning solution
Contains isopropanol
Used to clean natural nail
Remove sticky inhibition layer from gel after curing
Lint-free cleansing wipes
Cleanse nail surface
Do not allow gel to touch the skin

27. Storing Light Cured Gels
Lids on tight
Containers are upright to avoid leakage
Store on cool, dark place
Keep brush and open gel containers away from sunlight, gel lamps, full-spectrum table lamps
Do not leave open container near a window or UV or LED lamp

28. When to Use Light Cures Gels
“Anytime” - New technology allows light cured gel manufacturers to create
Tough
Durable
Hard products
“Never” – clients refuse to change
Most clients will do whatever you recommend
Gels have fewer odors than acrylics

29. Gel polishes applied similar manner to traditional polish
Less solvent
Cure under UV or LED lamps
Wear longer than traditional polish
Questions:
How easily would client like polish to be removed?
How long does client want polish to last?

30. Choose the Proper Light Cured Gel Technology
Highlight bullet points

31. Distinguish the Difference Between Light Cured Bulbs and Lamps
UV Bulb
UV light bulb
4-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9- watt bulbs
UV Lamp
UV light unit
Powers and controls UV bulbs to cure UV gel nail
LED Lamp (Light Omitting Diodes)
House LED bulbs
Cure about 4 times faster than UV lamps
LED 30 seconds – UV 2 minutes

32. Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product
Wattage
Measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes
4 bulbs each nine watts = 36 watt lamp
Does NOT indicate how much UV or LED light a lamp will emit
Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product
Greater chance of success and fewer problems

33. UV gel products packaged in opaque pots or squeeze tubes to avoid exposure to UV light
(sunlight, tanning beds)
“Full spectrum bulbs” and “true color”
Shelf life may be shortened and harden on containers if exposed to light (products)

34. UV bulbs stay violet for years
After a few months of use they may produce too little UV light to properly cure enhancement
Bulbs must be changed 2 – 3 times per year
If not changed regularly –
Service breakdown
Skin irritation/sensitivity
Most common – 9 watt
Check manufacturer to determine what wattage is to be used

35. LED - becoming more common
Will not cure UV gels
Here’s a Tip Box – PP 999
No studies to support claim that UV lights cause skin cancer

36. Specify the Advantages of Light Cured Gel Polish
Emerged in 2000
Highly pigmented
Removed differently
Do not dry – they cure
Will not imprint or smudge
Do not thicken over time
Traditional polish does

37. Relate Nail Art to Light Cured Gels
Inlaid art is sandwiched between 2 layers of enhancement products
Nail is smooth
Structure is not compromised
Glitter or confetti

38. Perform Light Cured Gel Maintenance and Removal
Every two weeks
Gel maintenance
Use medium grit (180 grit) to thin and shape
Cleanse with manufacturer’s recommended products
Add light cured gel to regrowth

39. Light cured gel removal Hard gel
Traditional gels
Cannot be soaked off
Must be filed off
Soft gel
Soakable gels
Soak in acetone 5 – 10 minutes
Scrape of with wooden stick
Follow manufacturer’s directions
“Here’s a Tip” Box – PP 1001

40. Light Cured Gel Application
Pages 1002 – 1005 – One color method
Pages 1006 – 1008 – Two-color method

41. Application of Light Cured Gel over Forms

43. Light Cured Gel MaintenancePP

44. Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV or LED Gel PolishPP

45. Light Cured Gel Removal – Hard GelPP

46. Light Cured Gel Removal – Soft or Soakable Gel PolishesPP