1. Lecture 1
Introduction To
TXC 6-Summer 2007
M.R. Badrossamay

2. Lecturer: Maryam Tamizifar Office: 257 Everson hall Office hours: Tuesdays 4-5 pm, by smartsite, or any convenient time

3. Lectures I. Introduction (7) Chap.1, 7,8
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Lectures
I. Introduction (7) Chap.1, 7,8
A. Textile Materials and Their Performance
B. Fiber Classification and Theory
C. Fiber Identification
II. Textile Fiber Production, Processing, Properties (6)
A. Natural Fibers (Protein and Cellulosic)
B. Manufactured Fibers (Regenerated Natural and Synthetic)
III. Yarns (3)
A. Yarn Formation and Structure
B. Texturing and Blending
IV. Fabrication
A. Weaving and Woven Structures
B. Knitting and Knitted Structures
C. Nonwoven, and Composite Fabrics
V. Finishing and Coloration (5) , 9
A. Physical and Chemical Finishes
B. Color, Dyes, Dyeing and Printing
C. Textile Labeling
M.R. Badrossamay

4. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Laboratory
I. Textile Structure Identification II. Fiber Identification III. Yarn Identification IV. Fabric Construction Identification V. Finishing Identification VI. Dyed and Printed Fabrics Identification
M.R. Badrossamay

5. Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance
Outline:
Introduction
Definition of widely-used Terms
Textile Performances
General Features of Fabrics
Fabricated Textile Products
Fiber Morphology
Fiber Macrostructure
M.R. Badrossamay

6. TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS
Textile materials are fibers, yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of original fiber or filaments.
ASTM (D123-88b), “Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles”
M.R. Badrossamay

7. Textile Structure Fabric, Yarn, Fiber, Colorant & Chemicals Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Textile Structure
Fabric,
Yarn,
Fiber,
Colorant & Chemicals
M.R. Badrossamay

8. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Textile Performance
Performance (Serviceability): Measure of a textile’s ability to meet consumer’s needs (major requirements that fabrics generally meet),
Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile product
Durability: How a product withstands use; length of time the product is suitable for the use for which it was purchased
M.R. Badrossamay

9. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Performance Cont.
Comfort: How a textile product affects heat, air, and moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile product.
Maintenance (Appearance retention): How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care*.
Health/safety/protection: its ability to protect the body and environment from a variety of harmful substances.
*Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance
M.R. Badrossamay

10. Fabrics Definition & Components
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Fabrics Definition & Components
A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers
General Features:
Fiber
Yarn
Fabric Construction
Interstices (voids)
Colorant & Chemicals
M.R. Badrossamay

11. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
1. Fiber
Any substance, natural or manufactured, which is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width and can be spun into yarns, or made into a fabric.
Generally the ratio is 1000:1, and fiber diameter varies from micrometers
Continuous fiber (FILAMENT): Silk and synthetic fibers
Short fiber (STAPLE): Cotton, wool, cut lengths of filament
M.R. Badrossamay

12. Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers
M.R. Badrossamay

13. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
2. Yarn
An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric, Spun, Filament, Compound and Fancy Yarn.
M.R. Badrossamay

14. 4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
3. Fabric Construction
Arrangement of yarns or fibers within a fabric;
interlacing (woven fabrics)
interlooping (knitted fabrics)
bonding the fibers or filaments (nonwovens)
4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics
M.R. Badrossamay

15. 5. Colorant & Chemicals Colorants: Dyes (Mostly soluble)
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
5. Colorant & Chemicals
Colorants:
Dyes (Mostly soluble)
Pigments (Insoluble)
Chemicals:
Finishing agents
Acids and bases
Surfactants
M.R. Badrossamay

16. Fabricated Textile Products
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Fabricated Textile Products
Apparel,
Interior Textiles,
Household Textiles, and Institutional Textiles,
Industrial Textiles and Consumer Textiles,
M.R. Badrossamay

17. Classification of Fibers
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Classification of Fibers
Natural Fibers:
Vegetable fibers:
Seed (Cotton, Kapok, etc)
Bast (Flax , Ramie, Hemp, Jute, etc.)
Leaf (sisal, abaca or manila, etc)
Animal fibers: Silk, Wool, Animal hair (Alpaca, Camel, Mohair, Cashmere)
Mineral fiber: Asbestos
M.R. Badrossamay

18. Classification of Fibers, cont.
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Classification of Fibers, cont.
Man-made Fibers:
Inorganic Fibers: Glass , ceramic, metal
Regenerated Fiber: Rayon, Polynosic, Tencel, Lyocell, Casein, etc.
Semi-Synthetic fibers: Cellulose acetate
Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Aramides, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polyurethane (Spandex) ….
M.R. Badrossamay

19. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Fiber Morphology
Morphology: Study of size, shape, and structure of a material and the relationships between aspects of structure.
Includes:
Macrostructure
Microstructure
Submicroscopic Structure
Fine Structure
M.R. Badrossamay

20. Macrostructure Observable features of fiber structure; LENGTH:
Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Macrostructure
Observable features of fiber structure;
LENGTH:
Staple: 3/ inches (or cm)
Filament: infinite length
Fibers shorter than 15 mm are classified as nontextile fibers
SIZE: Expressed in terms of diameter or linear density, or cross- sectional area
The size of Natural fibers is given as diameter (D), in micrometer (μm), usually D is μm, cotton(16-21), wool(17-40)
Fibers exceeding D>50 μm are classified as nontextile fibers
The finer the natural fiber size, the higher the quality of the fiber
Silk and manufactured fibers are given in denier or tex units.
M.R. Badrossamay

21. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Denier:
The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of any linear material,
one denier = one gram of 9,000 meters of fiber,
Tex:
The weight in grams of 1,000 meters of any linear material, or 1/9 of 1 denier,
Coarse denier or tex
Medium denier or tex
Fine fibers <2.2 denier or 0.24 tex
Micro fiber <1 denier or 0.11 tex
Ultra-fine Micro fiber <0.3 denier or tex
Increase in denier or tex numbers increase in fiber size
M.R. Badrossamay

22. Lecture 1
TXC 6-Summer 2007
Macrostructure Cont.
CRIMP : refers to waves, bends, twists or curls along the fiber length
Linear, 2- or 3-dimensional , inherent or latent crimp.
Crimp can increase the binding force between fibers.
COLOR:
Natural fibers are white or off-white, tan or brown
Manufactured fibers generally are white or off-white, also changeable
M.R. Badrossamay