Chapter 17 Hairstyling 1.

Chapter 17 Hairstyling 1

Learning Objectives Execute finger waving, pin curling, roller setting, and hair wrapping. Perform various blowdry styling techniques and learn the proper use of blowdrying tools. Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons. Demonstrate the proper use of a flat iron and show an understanding of heat settings. Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used. (continues) 2

Learning Objectives (continued)
Perform the four basic curl patterns and explain the end result. Describe the three types of hair pressing. Understand the importance of preparation, sectioning, pinning, and balance with regard to updos. Create the two foundational updos for styling long hair. WHY STUDY HAIRSTYLING? Hairstyling is an important, foundational skill that allows the professional to articulate creativity and deliver a specific outcome desired by the guest. Guests rely on you to teach them about their hair and how to style it so they can have a variety of options based on their lifestyle and fashion needs. You are the expert! The guest looks to you for that special style desired for that special day. Hairstyling skills will enable you to help guests to be as contemporary as they would like to be, allowing them to keep up with the trends. This knowledge helps make you a well-rounded hairdresser and it also creates discipline and cleanliness in your work. If one of your goals is to work on photo shoots or do editorial work for fashion, you must first master the basic techniques. 3

Introduction We can’t call ourselves hairdressers if we only concentrate on one area of our craft. A hairdresser is a professional with well-rounded skills that can adapt to the individual needs of the guest. By mastering “hair-dressing” we will not only learn discipline but finger dexterity or the manipulation of our hands. INTRODUCTION The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has always changed in direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the times. The necessity of learning long hair and styling techniques is two-fold when becoming a cosmetologist. We can’t call ourselves hairdressers if we only concentrate on one area of our craft. A hairdresser is a professional with well-rounded skills that can adapt to the individual needs of the guest. By mastering “hair-dressing” we will not only learn discipline but finger dexterity or the manipulation of our hands. 4

Start with a Client Consultation
The consultation is always the first step in the hairstyling process. Be sure to have your portfolio and a variety of styling books available for review. START WITH A CLIENT CONSULTATION The consultation is always the first step in the hairstyling process. Be sure to have your portfolio and a variety of styling books available for review. 5

LESSON ACTIVITY 1 Have students perform a client consultation on one another for styling. Have them discuss their findings with the class. 6

Learn the Basics of Wet Hairstyling
Tools Combs Brushes Rollers Pins Clips Clamps LEARN THE BASICS OF WET HAIRSTYLING Tools: Combs: Tail, styling, pick, wide-tooth combs Brushes: Boar-bristle, teasing Rollers: Short, medium, or long Pins: Bobby pins, hairpins Clips: Duckbills, double prong, single prong Clamps: Sectioning clamps 7

Perform Finger Waving Process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and finger-waving lotion. Finger waving was all the rage in the 1920s and 1930s, and continues to be popular on today’s runways and in Hollywood. PERFORM FINGER WAVING Finger waving is the process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and finger-waving lotion. In addition to its use in today’s fashions, finger waving teaches you the technique of moving and directing hair. It provides valuable training in molding hair to the curved surface of the head and is an excellent introduction to hairstyling. 8

Finger-Waving Lotion Makes hair pliable and holds it in place
Made of karaya gum Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts FINGER-WAVING LOTION Finger-waving lotion, also known as liquid gel, is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger-waving procedure. 9

Other Methods of Finger Waving
Vertical Horizontal OTHER METHODS OF FINGER WAVING Instead of completing one side before beginning the other, you may want to complete the first ridge on one side of the head and then move to the other side. After joining the two, you can repeat the process in this manner until you are finished with the entire head. Vertical: Ridges run up and down the head. Horizontal: Ridges are sideways and parallel to the floor around the head. The procedure for completing is the same for both. See Procedure 17–1 Preparing for Wet Styling, found on page 475 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 17–2 Horizontal Finger Waving, found on page 481 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 10

LESSON ACTIVITY 2 Have students apply waving lotion to their mannequin, making sure they use the appropriate amount, and work it through the hair properly. 11

Form Pin Curls Parts of a Curl Base Stem Circle 12 FORM PIN CURLS
Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles. Parts of a Curl The base is the stationary, or immovable, foundation of the curl, which is attached to the scalp. The stem is the section of the pin curl, between the base and first arc (turn) of the circle, which gives the circle its direction and mobility. The circle is the part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle. The size of the circle governs the width of the wave and its strength. 12

Mobility of a Curl No-stem curl Half-stem curl Full-stem curl 13
The amount of movement (mobility) of a section of hair is determined by the stem. A no-stem curl is placed directly on the base of the curl; produces a tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility. A half-stem curl permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is placed half off the base; gives good control to the hair. A full-stem curl allows greatest mobility; curl is completely off the base; base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or rectangular depending on area of head in which the full-stem curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the stem will permit; used to give hair a strong, definite direction. 13

Shaping for Pin Curl Placements
Begin at open end of a shaping. SHAPING FOR PIN CURL PLACEMENTS A shaping is the section of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls. Shapings are either open or closed-end. Always begin a pin curl at the open end, or convex side, of a shaping. 14

Open- and Closed-Center Curls
Open-center curls Closed-center curls OPEN- AND CLOSED-CENTER CURLS Open-center curls produce even, smooth waves and uniform waves. Closed-center curls produce waves that decrease in size toward the end; width of curl determines the size of the wave. 15

Curl and Stem Direction
Forward movement Reverse movement Upward movement Downward movement Diagonally Clockwise Counterclockwise CURL AND STEM DIRECTION The finished result is determined by the direction in which you place the stem of the curl Forward movement: Toward the face Reverse movement: Backward or away from the face Upward movement: Toward the top of the head Downward movement: Toward the bottom of the head Diagonally Clockwise: Curls formed in same direction as the movement of the hands of a clock Counterclockwise: Curls formed in the opposite direction as the movement of the hands of a clock 16

Pin Curl Bases or Foundations
Rectangular base Triangular base Arc base Square base PIN CURL BASES OR FOUNDATIONS For control, divide the hair into sections or panels. Subsections for bases should be as equal as possible to avoid splits in the finished style. Rectangular base: Recommended at side front hairline for a smooth upsweep effect; avoid splits in comb-out by overlapping curls. Triangular base: Recommended along front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits; allows a portion of hair from each curl to overlap. Arc base: Also called half-moon or C-shape base; pin curls are carved out of shaping; give good direction and may be used at hairline or nape. Square base: Used for even construction for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift; can be used anywhere on head; avoid splits by staggering the sectioning (bricklay fashion). 17

Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning Carved/sculptured curls 18
Ribboning is forcing the hair between thumb and back of comb to create tension. Carved or sculptured curls are pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head. 18

Designing with Pin Curls
Ridge curls Skip waves DESIGNING WITH PIN CURLS Ridge curls are curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave Skip waves are two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head; they are a combination of pin curls and finger waves. Skip waves create a strong wave pattern with well-defined lines between the waves. (continues) 19

Designing with Pin Curls (continued)
Barrel curls DESIGNING WITH PIN CURLS (continued) Barrel curls have large center openings and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular basis; similar to a roller but without the same tension. 20

Creating Volume with Pin Curls
Cascade curls CREATING VOLUME WITH PIN CURLS Cascade curls, also known as stand-up curls, are used to create height in the hair design. They are fastened to the head in a standing position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward. The size of the curl determines the amount of height in the comb out 21

Create Roller Curls Speed Increased strength Greater creativity 22
Roller curls are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls. Advantages: Speed: Roller holds equivalent of two to four stand-up curls. Increased strength: Hair is wrapped around roller with tension, which gives stronger, longer-lasting set. Greater creativity: Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative possibilities for any style. 22

Parts of a Roller Curl Base Stem Curl 23 PARTS OF A ROLLER CURL
The base is the panel of hair the roller is placed on; should be same length and width as the roller; base determines volume. The stem is the hair between the scalp and first turn of the roller; stem gives the hair direction and mobility, as with pin curls. The curl is the hair that is wrapped around the roller; determines the size of the wave or curl. 23

Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl Wave Curls 24 CHOOSING ROLLER SIZE
C-shaped curl: Created by one complete turn around the roller Wave: Created by one and one-half turns around the roller Curls: Created by two and one-half turns around the roller 24

Roller Placement On base Half base Off base 25 ROLLER PLACEMENT
On base is for full volume – roller sits directly on the base; hair is overdirected slightly in front of base and then rolled down to the base Half base is for medium volume – roller sits half on its base and half behind the base; hair is held straight up from head and rolled down to the base Off base is for the least volume – roller sits behind the base; strand is held at 45 degrees behind the base and rolled down 25

Roller Direction Follows the direction of a finished style
Indentation – the point where curls of opposite directions meet ROLLER DIRECTION Roller placement follows the direction of a finished style. Indentation is the point where curls of opposite directions meet, forming a recessed area. This is often found in flip styles or in bangs (fringes) with a dip or wave movement. Indentation can be achieved using rollers, curling irons, or a round brush. See Procedure 17-3 Wet Set With Rollers, found on page 485 of Milady Standard Cosmetology 26

Hot and Velcro Rollers Hot rollers – used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam Velcro™ rollers – used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states) HOT AND VELCRO ROLLERS Hot rollers: Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated either electrically or by steam and are a great timesaver in the salon. Allow hot rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting. Velcro™ rollers: Rollers are not allowed by the state board of some states and provinces because they are difficult to clean and disinfect properly. Check with your regulatory agency to determine if you can use them in your state. Like hot rollers, Velcro™ rollers are used only on dry hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the hair. Velcro™ rollers need to stay in the hair for only 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how much set you want in the hair. Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then either place the client under a hooded dryer for 5 to 10 minutes, or use the diffuser attachment on your blowdryer for the recommended time to give a soft set to the hair. 27

Backcombing Technique
Section hair Insert comb Press comb to scalp Create cushion base Repeat for volume Smooth hair BACKCOMBING TECHNIQUE Backcombing, also known as teasing, ratting, matting, or French lacing, involves combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base. Starting in the front, pick up a section of hair no more than 1 inch thick and no more than 2- to 3-inches (5 to 7.5 centimeters) wide. Insert the fine teeth of your comb into the hair at a depth of about 1½ inches (3.75 centimeters) from the scalp. Press the comb gently down toward the scalp, sliding it down and out of the hair. Repeat this process, working up the section until the desired volume is achieved If you wish to create a cushion (base), the third time you insert the comb, use the same sliding motion but firmly push the hair down to the scalp. Slide the comb out of the hair. To smooth hair that is backcombed, hold the teeth of a comb (or the bristles of a brush) at a 45-degree angle pointing away from you, and lightly move the comb over the surface of the hair. 28

LESSON ACTIVITY 3 Have students practice backcombing on their mannequin. Check for a strong and sturdy base. 29

Backbrushing Technique
Hold strand Place brush Roll brush Turn brush Blend hair Complete styling BACKBRUSHING TECHNIQUE Backbrushing also known as ruffing, is used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out. Pick up and hold a strand straight out from the scalp. Maintaining a slight amount of slack in the strand, place a teasing brush or a grooming brush near the base of the strand. Push and roll the inner edge of the brush with the wrist until it touches the scalp. For interlocking to occur, the brush must be rolled. Remove the brush from the hair with a turn of the wrist, peeling back a layer of hair. The hair will be interlocked to form a soft cushion at the scalp. You can create softness and evenness of flow by blending, smoothing, and combing. Avoid exaggerations and overemphasis. Finished patterns should reflect rhythm, balance, and smoothness of line. Final touches make hairstyles look professional, so take your time. After completing the comb out, you can use the tail of a comb to lift areas where the shape and form are not as full as you want them to be. Every touch during the final stage must be very lightly done. When you have completed your finishing touches, check the entire set for structural balance and then lightly spray the hair with a finishing spray. 30

Hair Wrapping Keeps curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape. Very little volume is attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted. Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair. Dry hair, use a silicone shine product instead of gel. Wet wrapping creates a smooth, sleek look. HAIR WRAPPING Hair wrapping is a technique used to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape. Curly hair can be wrapped around the head to give it a smooth, rounded contour, resulting in an effect that is similar to that attained with rollers. When wrapping hair, very little volume is attained because the hair at the scalp is not lifted. Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair. When wrapping dry hair, use a silicone shine product instead of using a gel; this will provide a glossy comb out. On curly hair, wet wrapping creates a smooth, sleek look. When working with very curly hair, press it first, and then do a dry hair wrapping. See Procedure 17–4 Hair Wrapping, found on page 487 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 31

Finish Hair Using Basic Blowdry Styling
Guidelines to Follow when Blowdry Styling Do not hold the dryer too long in one place. Use a constant back and forth motion. Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp. Direct air from the scalp toward the ends of the hair. Partially towel dry the hair before blowdrying FINISH HAIR USING BASIC BLOWDRY STYLING Blowdry styling is the process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation. Today, women desire hairstyles that require the least possible time and effort to maintain. The selection of styling tools, techniques, and products must relate to the client’s lifestyle. Guidelines to follow when blowdry styling: Do not hold the dryer too long in one place Move the blowdryer in a constant back-and-forth motion unless you are using the cooling button to cool a section. Always direct the hot air away from the client’s scalp to avoid scalp burns. Direct the hot air from the scalp toward the ends of the hair. The hot air should flow in the direction in which the hair is wound; improper technique will rough up the hair cuticle and give the hair a frizzy appearance. Partially towel dry the hair before blowdrying. This is especially important when you are working with damaged or chemically treated hair. This is not necessary if you are cutting the hair before you blowdry it, as the hair will already be partially dry due to the amount of time it takes to cut it. 32

Tools for Blowdry Styling
Blowdryer Handle Slotted nozzle Small fan Heating element Speed/heat controls Diffuser TOOLS FOR BLOWDRY STYLING The blowdryer an electrical appliance designed for drying and styling hair. Its main parts are a handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating element, and speed/heat controls. The blowdryer’s nozzle attachment, or concentrator, is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air. Some blowdryers also come with cooling buttons that are used to help set the hair. The diffuser is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and helps to accentuate or keep textural definition. 33

Combs and Picks 34 COMBS AND PICKS
Designed to distribute and part the hair; they are available in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. Length and spacing of teeth vary from comb design to design. Closely spaced teeth remove definition from the curl, creating a smooth surface; widely spaced teeth shape larger sections for more surface texture. Picks on the end of combs lift the hair away from the head. 34

Brushes Classic styling brush Paddle brush Grooming brush Vent brush
Round brush Teasing brush BRUSHES Classic styling brush is a half-round, rubber-based brush. Paddle brush is a large flat bases. Grooming brush is generally oval, with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles. Vent brush is ventilated design. Round brush is available in different diameters; The client’s hair should be long enough to wrap twice around the brush. Teasing brush is a thin, nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning, along with a narrow row of bristles. 35

Sectioning Clips Usually metal or plastic
Have long prongs to hold wet or dry sections of hair in place. Keeps wet hair sectioned off and separate from the section being styled SECTIONING CLIPS Usually metal or plastic; they have long prongs to hold wet or dry sections of hair in place. They keep wet hair not being styled sectioned off and separate from the section being styled. 36

Types of Styling Product
Foam or mousse Gels Liquid gels or texturizers Straightening gels TYPES OF STYLING PRODUCT Foam, or mousse, build body and volume into hair. Use on damp the hair and dry into the hair. They are good for fine hair and will hold for six to eight hours in dry conditions Gel is thickened stying preparation that comes in a tube or bottle. Firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent; it comes in a tube or bottle and has a strong hold. It creates long-lasting body as a result of its high resin level. Liquid gels, or texturizers, are similar to firm hold gels except that they are lighter and less viscous (more liquid) in form. They allow for easy styling, defining, and molding. With brushing, they add volume and body to the style Straightening gel is applied to damp hair (ranging from wavy to extremely curly) and blown dry, it creates a smooth, straight look that provides the most hold in dry outdoor conditions. Straightening gel counters frizz by coating the hair shaft and weighing it down. (continues) 37

Types of Styling Product (continued)
Volumizers Pomade or wax Silicone Hair spray or finishing spray Thermal protection product TYPES OF STYLING PRODUCT (continued) Volumizers add volume to shape, especially at the base, when hair is blown dry. Pomade (or wax) adds considerable weight to the hair by causing strands to join together, showing separation in the hair. Silicone, also known as serum, adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition. Hair spray, also known as finishing spray, is applied in the form of a mist to hold a style in position. It is the most widely used hairstyling product. Available in both aerosol and pump containers, and in a variety of holding strengths, it is useful for all hair types. Thermal protection product, also known as heat protection hair care product, is used on damp hair after you’ve applied styling product and before blow drying. It protects the hair from heat damage caused by thermal styling tools like blowdryers. See Procedure 17-5 Blowdrying Short, Layered, Curly Hair To Produce A Smooth And Full Finish, found on page 489 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure Blowdrying Short Curly Hair In Its Natural Wave Pattern, found on page 493 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure Diffusing Long Curly Or Extremely Curly Hair In Its Natural Wave Pattern, found on page 495 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 17-8 Blowdrying Straight Or Wavy Hair For Maximum Volume, found on page 499 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure Blowdrying Blunt Or Long-Layered, Straight To Wavy Hair Into A Straight Style, found on page 504 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 38

LESSON ACTIVITY 4 Ask students to write down all of the various styling aids/products they have used on their own hair in the last year and why they used them. Now ask them to identify the styling aid they most often suggest for use to others and why. Discuss the answers in class.

Maintain Safety in Thermal Hairstyling
Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques MAINTAIN SAFETY IN THERMAL HAIRSTYLING Thermal waving and curling, also known as Marcel waving, are methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques. Thermal irons are implements made of quality steel that are used to curl dry hair; which can be either electrical or stove heated, have been modernized so successfully that they are more popular today than ever before. 40

Thermal Irons Four parts Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod Shell
Implements made of quality steel that are used to curl dry hair. They provide an even heat that is completely controlled by the stylist. Electric curling irons have cylindrical barrels ranging from ½ inch to 3 inches in diameter. Nonelectrical thermal irons are favored by many stylists who cater to clients with excessively curly hair because of the larger range of barrel or rod sizes and higher heat capabilities. Nonelectric thermal irons are heated in a specially designed electric or gas stove. All thermal irons have four basic parts: Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod – round, solid prong) Shell – the clamp that presses the hair against the barrel or rod) 41

Flat Irons Range in size from ½ inch to 3 inches across
Used to create smooth, straight styles FLAT IRONS Flat irons have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ inch to 3 inches across. Flat irons with straight edges are used to create smooth, straight styles—even on very curly hair. Flat irons with beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or cup the ends. The inner edge is the edge nearest the stylist The outer edge is the edge away from stylist 42

Testing Thermal Irons Heat iron. Clamp heated iron over tissue.
Note if paper scorches. Let cool as needed. TESTING THERMAL IRONS Heat iron. Clamp heated iron over tissue paper and hold for five seconds. If paper scorches or turns brown, iron is too hot. Let cool a bit before using. Overly hot irons can burn, scorch, or damage hair and can discolor white hair. Fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair withstands less heat than normal hair. 43

Care of Thermal Irons Be sure to check the manufacturer’s directions for care and cleaning. Dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia. If you are using a nonelectrical thermal iron, immerse the barrel in this solution. Do not clean your iron when it is turned on or when it is still cooling from a previous styling service. CARE OF THERMAL IRONS Before cleaning a thermal iron, be sure to check the manufacturer’s directions for care and cleaning. Remove dirt, oil, and product with a dampened towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia. If you are using a nonelectrical thermal iron, immerse the barrel in this solution. Do not clean iron when it is turned on or when it is still cooling from a previous styling service. 44

Comb Used with Thermal Irons
Size Holding comb COMB USED WITH THERMAL IRONS Size: Should be about 7 inches (17.5 cm) long, made of hard rubber or other inflammable substance, and should have fine teeth Holding the comb: Hold the comb between the thumb and all four fingers of the left hand, with the index finger resting on the backbone of the comb for better control and one end of the comb resting against the outer edge of the palm. This position assures a strong hold and a firm movement. 45

Manipulating Thermal Irons
Grasp handles with dominant hand. Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle. Practice rolling cold irons. MANIPULATING THERMAL IRONS Grasp handles in your dominant hand far enough away from the joint to avoid heat. Place your three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle with your little finger in front of the lower handle and your thumb in front of the upper handle. Practice rolling cold irons. This rolling movement should be done without any sway or motion in the arm; only the fingers are used as you roll the handles in each direction. 46

Temperature Setting depends on the texture of the hair, whether it is fine or coarse, and whether it has been lightened or tinted. Hair that has been lightened or tinted, as well as white hair, should be curled and waved with a gentle heat. As a rule, coarse and gray hair can withstand more heat than fine hair. TEMPERATURE There is no single correct temperature used for the iron when thermal curling or thermal waving the hair. 47

Thermal Curling with Electric Thermal Irons
Straight hair Pressed hair Wigs and hairpieces THERMAL CURLING WITH ELECTRIC THERMAL IRONS A modern thermal iron and a hard rubber comb are all you need to give your client curls. Thermal curling, which requires no setting gels or lotions, may be used to great advantage on the following hair types: Straight hair: Thermal curling permits quick styling because it eliminates the need for rollers (which are placed in wet hair) and a long hair drying process. Pressed hair: Thermal curling permits styling the hair without the danger of its returning to its former extremely curly condition and it prepares the hair for any desired style. Wigs and hairpieces: Thermal curling presents a quick and effective method for styling. 48

Curling Iron Manipulations
Practice turning the iron Practice releasing the hair Practice guiding the hair strand Practice removing the curl from iron CURLING IRON MANIPULATIONS If you want to get really good at using curling irons, the key is to practice manipulating them. Always practice with cold irons. The following four exercises are designed to help you learn the most effective ways to use an iron. Practice turning the iron: Develop a smooth rotating movement by practicing turning the irons while opening and closing them at regular intervals; practice rotating the irons in both directions (downward and upward). Practice releasing the hair: Practice releasing the hair by opening and closing the irons in a quick, clicking movement. Practice guiding the hair strand: Practice guiding the hair strand into the center of the curl as you rotate the irons. This ensures that the end of the strand is firmly in the center of the curl. Practice removing the curl from the iron: Practice removing the curl from the iron by drawing the comb to the left and the rod to the right. Use the comb to protect the client’s scalp from burns. 49

The 4 Basic Curl Patterns
Root curl Spiral curl Waves End curls THE 4 BASIC CURL PATTERNS The root curl creates volume of hair, movement, and a curl formation from roots to ends. It is the most commonly used technique and work best on short or long layered hair. A spiral curl is made by curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod. It creates a vertical corkscrew effect and works best on one length hair to create volume. Waves create an S pattern and gives texture and volume to the hair. Waves are a popular classic technique that can be applied on any texture and length, usually a surface enhancer. End curls can be used give a finished appearance to hair ends. Long, medium-length, or short hair may be styled with end curls. The hair ends can be turned under or over, as desired. The position and direction of the curling iron determine whether the end curls will turn under or over. 50

Volume-Base Thermal Curls
Section off base. Hold strand at 135-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for five seconds. Roll curl and place on base. VOLUME-BASE THERMAL CURLS Volume-base curls provide maximum lift or volume as the curl is placed high on base. Section the off the base. Hold the curl strand at a 135-degree angle. Slide irons over the strand about 2 inches (5 cm) from the scalp. Wrap the strand over the rod with medium tension. Maintain the position for five seconds. This heats the strand and sets the base. Roll the curl in the usual manner and firmly place it forward and high on its base. 51

Full-Base Thermal Curls
Section off base. Hold strand at 125-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand with medium tension. Maintain position for five seconds. Roll curl and place firmly on base. FULL-BASE THERMAL CURLS Full-base curls provide a strong curl with full volume. Section off the base. Hold the strand at a 125-degree angle. Slide irons over the strand about 2 inches (5 cm) from the scalp. Wrap the strand over the rod with medium tension. Maintain the position for five seconds to heat the strand and set the base. Roll the curl in the usual manner; place it firmly in the center of its base. 52

Half-Base Thermal Curls
Section off base. Hold hair at 90-degree angle. Slide iron over hair strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for five seconds. Roll curl and place it half on base. HALF-BASE THERMAL CURLS Half-base curls provide a strong curl with moderate lift or volume. Section off the base. Hold the hair at a 90-degree angle. Slide irons over the hair strand about 2 inches (5 cm) from the scalp. Wrap the strand over the rod with medium tension. Maintain this position for about five seconds to heat the strand and set the base. Roll the curl in the usual manner and place it half off its base. 53

Off-Base Thermal Curls
Section off base. Hold hair at 70-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for five seconds. Roll curl and place off base. OFF-BASE THERMAL CURLS Off-base curls offer a curl option with only slight lift or volume. Section off the base. Hold the hair at 70-degree angle. Slide irons over the hair strand at about 2 inches (5 cm) from the scalp. Wrap the strand over the rod with medium tension. Maintain this position for five seconds to heat the strand and set the base. Roll the curl in the usual manner and place it completely off base. 54

Finished Thermal Curl Settings
© Valua Vitaly/Shutterstock.com © Zoom Team/Shutterstock.com FINISHED THERMAL CURL SETTINGS Clip each curl in place until the whole head is complete and ready for styling. Brush the hair, working up from the neckline, and push the waves into place as you progress through the entire head. 55

Using Thermal Irons Safely
Get instructions for use of irons. Keep irons clean. Do not overheat. Test temperature. Handle carefully. Place hot irons in safe place to cool. USING THERMAL IRONS SAFELY Use thermal irons only after receiving instruction in their use. Keep thermal irons clean, especially if hairspray is used before ironing. Do not overheat thermal irons. This can the damage the ability of irons to hold heat uniformly. Test the temperature of the iron. Use a paper test; do not inhale fumes of irons. Handle thermal irons carefully. Burns to yourself and the client can occur. Place hot irons in a safe place to cool. Do not leave them where someone might accidentally come into contact with them and be burned. (continues) 56

Using Thermal Irons Safely (continued)
Don’t place handles too close to heater. Properly balance irons in heater. Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Do not use metal combs. Place comb between scalp and iron. USING THERMAL IRONS SAFELY (continued) When heating a conventional iron, do not place the handles too close to the heater. Your hand might be burned when removing the iron. When using a conventional iron, make sure the iron is properly balanced in the heater or it might fall and be damaged or injure someone. Use only hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Celluloid combs must not be used in thermal curling, as they are flammable. Celluloid combs must not be used in thermal curling, as they are flammable. Do not use metal combs. They become hot and can burn the scalp. Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron. Prevents burning of scalp. (continues) 57

Using Thermal Irons Safely (continued)
Curl only clean, dry hair. Avoid fishhooks. Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair. Use proper technique to avoid lines of demarcation. Always use a thermal protection product. USING THERMAL IRONS SAFELY (continued) The client’s hair must be clean and completely dry to ensure a good thermal curl or wave. Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron. Will cause fishhooks protrude over irons. When ironing lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair, always use a gentle heat setting. Use proper technique when curling the hair to avoid lines of demarcation. Always use a thermal protection product. To protect the hair from heat damage. See Procedure 17–10 Thermal Waving, found on page 507 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 58

Thermal Hair Straightening
Temporarily straightens extremely curly or resistant hair by means of a heated iron or comb. Generally lasts until the hair is shampooed. Also prepares the hair for additional services such as thermal curling and croquignole thermal curling. A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural and lustrous condition and it is not harmful to the hair. THERMAL HAIR STRAIGHTENING (HAIR PRESSING) Hair pressing temporarily straightens extremely curly or resistant hair by means of a heated iron or comb. Also called hair pressing. It is a popular service that is very profitable in the salon. Temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of irons or combs. A pressing generally lasts until the next shampoo. It prepares the hair for additional service such as thermal roller curling and croquignole thermal curling (the two-loop or “Figure 8” technique). 59

Three Types of Hair Straightening
Soft press Medium press Hard press THREE TYPES OF HAIR STRAIGHTENING Soft press removes about 50 percent to 60 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair. Medium press removes about 60 percent to 75 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once on each side of hair using slightly more pressure than for a soft press. Hard press removes 100 percent of the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb twice on each side of hair. Can also be done by first passing a hot curling iron through the hair. This is called a double press. 60

Prepare for Hair Pressing— Analysis of Hair and Scalp
Wave pattern of hair Length of hair Texture of hair Feel of hair Elasticity of hair Color of hair Condition of hair Condition of scalp PREPARE FOR HAIR PRESSING—ANALYSIS OF HAIR AND SCALP If the client’s hair and scalp are not healthy, you should give appropriate advice concerning corrective treatments. In the case of scalp skin disease, it is not the cosmetologist’s job to diagnose the condition, but rather to advise the client to see a dermatologist. A careful analysis of the client’s hair and scalp should cover the following points: Wave pattern of hair: Curly or overly curly. Length of hair: Long, medium, or short. Texture of hair: Coarse, medium, fine, or very fine. Feel of hair: Wiry, soft, or silky. Elasticity of hair: Normal or poor. Under normal conditions, a client’s hair has good elasticity if it can be safely stretched to about 50 percent of its original length. If porosity is normal, then the hair returns to its natural wave pattern when it is wet or moistened. Color of hair: Natural, faded, streaked, gray, tinted, or lightened. Condition of hair: Normal, brittle, dry, oily, damaged, or chemically treated. Condition of scalp: Normal, flexible, or tight. 61

Hair Texture Coarse, overly curly Medium Fine Wiry 62 HAIR TEXTURE
Determined by the diameter and feel of the hair. Touching the client’s hair and asking about specific hair characteristics will help you determine the best way to treat the hair. Coarse, overly curly hair: Coarse hair has the greatest diameter and requires more heat and pressure when pressing than medium or fine hair. Medium hair: Medium hair is considered normal; presents no problems and is least resistant to hair pressing. Fine hair: Fine hair requires special care; less heat and pressure is applied to avoid breakage. Fine hair usually has only two layers: cortex and cuticle. Wiry hair: Wiry hair may be any diameter (coarse, medium, or fine); it feels stiff, hard, and glassy; very resistant to pressing and requires more heat and pressure than other hair types. 62

Scalp Conditions Normal Tight (with coarse hair) Flexible 63
The condition of the client’s scalp can be classified as normal, tight, or flexible. Normal Proceed with an analysis of hair texture and elasticity. Tight with coarse hair Press the hair in the direction in which it grows to avoid injury to the scalp. Flexible Pressing may take more pressure. 63

LESSON ACTIVITY 5 Have two students volunteer to role-play a situation in which a client has to be advised that his hair is not suitable for a pressing service. Have students use their own words for the role-play. Have the observing students provide feedback on the dialogue. Then have the students reverse roles and role-play another scenario regarding a client consultation prior to a hair pressing service. 64

Service Notes Be sure to record the results of your hair and scalp analysis, as well as all pressing treatments. Question the client about any lightener, tint, gradual colors (metallic), or other chemical treatment that have been used on her hair. A release statement should be signed by the client prior to hair pressing in order to protect the school, the salon, and the stylist from liability due to accidents or damage. SERVICE NOTES Be sure to record the results of your hair and scalp analysis, as well as all pressing treatments, on the client's intake form or service record card. Consultation During your client consultation, question the client about any lightener, tint, gradual colors (metallic), or other chemical treatment that have been used on her hair. Release statement As with all services, a release statement should be signed by the client prior to hair pressing in order to protect the school, the salon, and the stylist from liability due to accidents or damage 65

Conditioning Treatments
Cosmetic preparations Thorough brushing Scalp massage CONDITIONING TREATMENTS Effective conditioning treatments involve special cosmetic preparations for the hair and scalp, thorough brushing, and scalp massage. Using a conditioning treatment usually results in a better hair pressing. A tight scalp can be made more flexible by the systematic use of scalp massage and hair brushing. The client benefits because there is better circulation of blood to the scalp. 66

Pressing Combs Construction Handles Teeth Size 67 PRESSING COMBS
There are two types of pressing combs: regular and electric. Construction Quality stainless steel or brass. Handles Usually made of wood or a substance that does not readily absorb heat. Teeth More space between teeth produces a coarse or open-looking press. Less space between teeth produces a smoother press. Size Pressing combs also vary in size. Shorter combs are used to press short hair; longer combs are used to press long hair. 67

Tempering the Comb A process used to condition a new brass pressing comb so that it heats evenly. Heat the comb until it is extremely hot. Coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil. Let it cool down naturally and then rinse under hot running water to remove the oil. Tempering also burns off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb. TEMPERING THE COMB To temper a pressing comb is a process used to condition a new brass-pressing comb so that it heats evenly. Heat the comb until it is extremely hot. Coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil. Let it cool down naturally and then rinse under hot running water to remove the oil. Tempering also burns off any polish the manufacturer may have used to coat the comb. 68

Heating and Cleaning the Comb
Heating the comb Gas stove Electric Cleaning the comb HEATING AND CLEANING THE COMB Depending on what they are made of, pressing combs vary in their ability to accept and retain heat. Regular pressing combs may be designed as electrical appliances or to be heated in electric or gas stoves. Gas stove: When heating a pressing comb in a gas stove, point the teeth face up and keep the handle away from the fire. After heating the comb to the proper temperature, test it on a piece of light paper. If the paper becomes scorched, allow the comb to cool slightly before applying it to the hair. Electric: Electric pressing combs are available in two forms. One comes with an on/off switch; the other is equipped with a thermostat that indicates high or low degrees of heat. Cleaning the comb Combs are more efficient if they are kept clean and free of carbon. Wipe it clean of loose hair. Intense heat keeps the comb sterile. Remove carbon by rubbing the outside surface and between the teeth with an emery board, fine steel wool pad, or fine sandpaper. Immerse the metal portion in a hot baking soda solution for one hour. Rinse and dry it thoroughly. The metal should acquire a smooth and shiny appearance. 69

Pressing Oil or Cream Makes hair softer Prepares hair for pressing
Prevents hair from burning Helps prevent breakage Conditions hair after pressing Adds sheen Helps retain press PRESSING OIL OR CREAM Prepare the hair for the pressing treatment by first applying pressing oil or cream. Makes hair softer Prepares and condition the hair for pressing Helps protect the hair from burning or scorching Helps prevent hair breakage Conditions the hair after pressing Adds sheen to pressed hair Helps hair stay pressed longer 70

Hard Press A hard press is only recommended when the results of a soft or medium press are not satisfactory. The entire comb press procedure is repeated. Pressing oil should be added to hair strands only if necessary. A hard press is also known as a double comb press. Touch-ups: The process is the same as for the original pressing treatment, with the shampoo omitted. HARD PRESS Touch-ups: Touch-ups are sometimes necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or other conditions. 71

Reminder and Hints for all Pressing Procedures
Avoid excessive heat or pressure on the hair and scalp. Recommend a conditioning treatment mask. Avoid too much pressing oil on the hair. Avoid perfumed pressing oil near the scalp. Avoid too frequent hair pressing. Keep the comb clean at all times. Avoid overheating the pressing comb if using a stove. REMINDER AND HINTS FOR ALL PRESSING PROCEDURES These tips apply to all pressing procedures. Avoid excessive heat or pressure on the hair and scalp. Recommend a conditioning treatment mask to help repair and moisturize the hair and scalp; this should typically be done twice a month. Avoid too much pressing oil on the hair because it can attract dirt and make the hair look greasy and artificial. Avoid perfumed pressing oil near the scalp if the client has allergies. Avoid overly frequent hair pressing. Keep the comb clean at all times. Avoid overheating the pressing comb if using a stove. (continues) 72

Reminder and Hints for all Pressing Procedures (continued)
Test the temperature of the heated comb on a white cloth or paper before applying it to the hair. Adjust the temperature to the texture and hair condition. Use the heated comb carefully to avoid burning the skin, scalp, or hair. Prevent the smoking or burning of hair. Use a moderately warm comb to press short hair. If the hair texture is fine and not too coarse, you may consider using a flat iron on high heat. REMINDER AND HINTS FOR ALL PRESSING PROCEDURES (continued) Test the temperature of the heated comb on a white cloth or paper before applying it to the hair. Adjust the temperature to the texture and hair condition. Use the heated comb carefully to avoid burning the skin, scalp, or hair. Prevent the smoking or burning of hair during the pressing treatment by drying the hair completely after it is shampooed and by avoiding excessive application of pressing oil. Use a moderately warm comb to press short hair on the temples and back of the neck. You may also use a temple comb, which is about half the size of a regular pressing comb. If the hair texture is fine and not too coarse, you may consider using a flat iron on high heat. 73

Special Considerations
Pressing fine hair Pressing short, fine hair Pressing coarse hair Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS When pressing fine hair: don’t use too much heat or pressure; apply less pressure near hair ends. When pressing short, fine hair: take extra care at hairline and avoid excessive heat in comb. When pressing coarse hair: extra pressure is needed for hair to remain straightened. When pressing tinted, lightened, or gray (unpigmented) hair: lightened hair may require conditioning treatment; use moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure. Breakage and discoloration can occur on tinted, lightened, or gray hair if excessive heat is used. 74

Creatively Style Long Hair
Updo – also know as a specialty style, is a hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics. Half updo – designed for long or very long hair. This is where half of the hair is pulled back off the face and pinned at or below the crown. CREATIVELY STYLE LONG HAIR Updo Updo, also know as a specialty style, is a hairstyle with the hair arranged up and off the shoulders and secured with implements such as hairpins, bobby pins, and elastics. Half updo Half updo is designed for long or very long hair. This is where half of the hair is pulled back off the face and pinned at or below the crown. 75

5 Key Points Preparation Sectioning Pinning Balance Texture 76
Preparing your tools and materials is essential before beginning an updo. A list of tools can be found in the procedure under “implements and materials.” Perform an updo on hair that was washed the day before for less slip. Many stylists also choose to use thermal irons or set the hair in hot rollers prior to doing an updo. Use slow-drying aerosol hairspray, it will allow you to work with the hair before it dries. Sectioning the hair before you begin allows you to control long hair and a work with cleanliness. Every style has a sectioning pattern; keeping the lines simple will allow you to execute the look in a timely manner and ensure a quality end result. Pinning will keep your updo secure, but one thing to remember is that less is more. There are two types of pins: hair pins and bobby pins. Balance is often overlooked and can be the difference between a flattering style or one that is not. The head shape, neckline, and facial structure should be analyzed before committing to a look. Texture is what creates the foundation that allows you to build your shape, design your style, and customize it to the individual. 76

Foundational Styles Ponytail French pleat
Foundation for a chignon, bun, and knot, among other designs. Can be placed on various parts of the head and can be worn casual, classic, or trendy. French pleat Can be applied to straight or curly hair with length below the shoulder. It is one of the more elegant styles and can be adapted for every age group. FOUNDATIONAL STYLES The two basic hairstyles described below are the foundation of every updo and long hairstyling. Once mastered, any placement or combination of these techniques will give a unique update to any classic look. Ponytail The ponytail is the most commonly used hairstyle because of its versatility. French pleat A French pleat (the word pleat means “folded” in French) is a classic long hairstyle that is popular in the salon for clients attending formal functions. It is one of the more elegant styles and can be adapted for every age group. 77

Classic Updos Chignon Bun Twist 78 CLASSIC UPDOS
Practicing basic techniques will help you improve your basic skills with long hair and allow you to express your creative talents. Chignon Chignon is a truly classic style, created out of a simple ponytail. A technique used for formal hairstyling. Can be dressed up with flowers or ornaments, or kept simple. Bun The classic bun is great for all occasions and can be seen from the red carpet to the runways of fashion week. The bun is also known as a knot. The foundation technique used for this look is a ponytail and it can sit high or low. It could be twisted around the ponytail or back-brushed and formed into a bun. The bun is secured with an elastic hair band and a few small and large bobby pins, but you can also use accessories to create a personal style. Twist A twist, also referred to as a French pleat, is a technique used in formal hairstyling that creates a look of conical shape. This elegant, sleek look can be worn for any occasion and is very easy to create. See Procedure Chignon, found on page 513 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure French Pleat Or Twist, found on page 516 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure Half Updo, found on page 519 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 78

Perform Formal Styling
Client Consultation Determine client desires Use magazines and books Pre-wedding consultation PERFORM FORMAL STYLING Client Consultation Determine client desires. Have magazines or look book available that show a lot of updos, such as bridal magazines, or keep a folder of pictures clipped from magazines at your station that show current styles. Pre-wedding consultation If you are doing a pre-wedding consultation with a bride, ask the bride to bring her headpiece so that she can try several styles and see how they look. Take photographs to help her decide which style she likes best. Keep a photo of the chosen style so that you can duplicate it for the bride’s big day. 79

Express the Artistry of Hairstyling
Hairstyling offers a cosmetologist a wonderful artistic outlet. Once you master the basic styles presented in this chapter, and the foundational techniques these styles require, you will have the technical abilities to experiment and create your own unique and attractive looks. EXPRESS THE ARTISTRY OF HAIRSTYLING Hairstyling offers a cosmetologist a wonderful artistic outlet Once you master the basic styles presented in this chapter, and the foundational techniques these styles require, you will have the technical abilities to experiment and create your own unique and attractive looks. 80

Summary and Review The more you develop dexterity, coordination, and finger strength the better you will be able to accomplish beautiful hairstyling. Pin curls serve as the foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used to create a wide variety of hairstyles for all ages. Rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls with the advantage that rollers hold much more hair than pin curls, which saves time. In addition, the use of rollers gives a stronger and longer lasting style due to the tension used in wrapping the hair around the roller. SUMMARY AND REVIEW • The more you develop dexterity, coordination, and finger strength the better you will be able to accomplish beautiful hairstyling. • Pin curls serve as the foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and rolls that are used to create a wide variety of hairstyles for all ages. • Rollers are used to create many of the same effects as stand-up pin curls with the advantage that rollers hold much more hair than pin curls, which saves time. In addition, the use of rollers gives a stronger and longer lasting style due to the tension used in wrapping the hair around the roller. (continues) 81

Summary and Review (continued)
We have also learned that styling the hair with a hand-held blowdryerand curling irons has become a standard hairstyling technique. We simply apply the principles of wet hairstyling with these quick-service tools. Hair pressing can be a very lucrative service in the salon. Good judgment should be used to avoid damage to the hair and scalp. We have also discussed the importance of becoming skillful in offering long-hair updosfor those important events such as proms, weddings, and black-tie affairs. SUMMARY AND REVIEW (continued) • We have also learned that styling the hair with a hand-held blowdryer and curling irons has become a standard hairstyling technique. We simply apply the principles of wet hairstyling with these quickservice tools. • Hair pressing can be a very lucrative service in the salon. Good judgment should be used to avoid damage to the hair and scalp. • We have also discussed the importance of becoming skillful in offering long-hair updos for those important events such as proms, weddings, and black-tie affairs. 82

Chapter Review Questions
What is the purpose of finger waving? What are the three parts of a pin curl? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. What is the purpose of finger waving? Answer: Finger waving is a process of shaping and directing the hair into a pattern of S-shaped waves through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion. 2. What are the three parts of a pin curl? Answer: The three parts of a pin curl are the: Base Stem Circle (continues) 83

Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and other useful ways to apply these techniques. What is the purpose of backcombing and backbrushing? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 3. Name the four pin curl bases and their uses. Answer: Rectangular base pin curls are usually recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth upsweep. Triangular base pin curls are recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. Arc base pin curls, also known as half-moon or C-shape base curls, give good direction and may be used at the hairline or in the nape. Square base pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift. 4. Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and other useful ways to apply these techniques. Answer: On-base roller placements are used for full volume; the roller sits directly on its base. Half-base roller placements provide a medium amount of volume. Off-base roller placements provide the least volume. These techniques are also useful when round brushing, using a curling iron/Marcel, and backcombing. 5. What is the purpose of backcombing and backbrushing? Answer: Backcombing and backbrushing help lift and increase volume, as well as to remove indentations caused by roller setting. Backcombing involves combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base. Backbrushing is used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl patterns together for a uniform and smooth comb out. (continues) 84

How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blowdrying? List and describe the various styling products used in blowdry styling. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 6. How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blowdrying? Answer: You can avoid burning the client by never holding the dryer too long in one place and always directing the hot air away from the client’s scalp toward the ends of the hair. Move the blowdryer in a constant back-and-forth motion. 7. List and describe the various styling products used in blowdry styling. Answer: Styling products used in blowdry styling are: foam or mousse, gel, liquid gel, texturizer, straightening gel, volumizer, pomade, wax, silicone, hair spray, and thermal protection product. (continues) 85

8. How is volume achieved with thermal curls? 9. List at least 10 safety measures that must be followed when using thermal irons. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 8. How is volume achieved with thermal curls? Answer: Volume is achieved with thermal curls by placing the curl very high on its base by holding the curl strand at a 135-degree angle and wrapping with medium tension. 9. List at least 10 safety measures that must be followed when using thermal irons. Answer: Use thermal irons only after receiving instruction in their use. Keep thermal irons clean, especially if hairspray is used before ironing. Do not overheat thermal irons because this can damage their ability to hold heat uniformly. Test the temperature of the iron on tissue paper or a white cloth before placing it on the hair in order to prevent burning the hair. Handle thermal irons carefully to avoid burning yourself or the client. Place hot irons in a safe place to cool. Do not leave them where someone might accidentally come into contact with them and be burned. When heating a conventional iron, do not place the handles too close to the heater. Your hand might be burned when removing the iron. When heating a conventional iron, make sure the iron is properly balanced in the heater or it might fall and be damaged or injure someone. Use only hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Celluloid combs must not be used in thermal curling, as they are flammable. Do not use metal combs; they can become hot and burn the scalp. Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling or waving hair to prevent burning the scalp. The client’s hair must be clean and completely dry to ensure a good thermal curl or wave. Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this causes fishhooks (hair that is bent or folded). When ironing lightened, tinted, or relaxed hair, always use a gentle heat setting. Use proper technique when curling the hair to avoid lines of demarcation. Always use a thermal protection product to protect the hair from heat damage. (continues) 86

Name and describe the three types of hair presses. How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 10. Name and describe the three types of hair presses. Answer: The three types of hair presses are: Soft press: removes 50 to 60 percent of the curl Medium press: removes 60 to 75 percent of the curl Hard press or double press: removes 100 percent of the curl 11. How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a service? Answer: Test the comb on a white cloth or white paper. If the paper becomes scorched, allow the comb to cool slightly before applying it to the hair. 12. What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior to hair pressing? Answer: The hair and scalp must be healthy and free from abrasions. If they are not healthy, give appropriate advice concerning corrective treatments. If there are signs of scalp or skin disease, don’t diagnose; advise the client to see dermatologist. If there are signs of neglect or abuse caused by faulty pressing, lightening, or tinting, recommend a series of conditioning treatments. 13. Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed? Answer: Hair should not be pressed if a client has scalp abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, a scalp injury, or chemically damaged hair. (continues) 87

List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing the hair. What are the five key points you must consider before beginning an updo. Name the two basic hairstyles considered the foundation of every updo and long hairstyling. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 14. List at least four safety measures that must be followed when pressing the hair. Answer: Safety measures that must be followed when pressing the hair are: Avoid excessive heat or pressure on the hair and scalp. Avoid too much pressing oil on the hair. Avoid perfumed pressing oil near the scalp if the client is allergic. Avoid overly frequent hair pressing. Keep the comb clean at all times. Avoid overheating the pressing combs if using a stove. Test the temperature of the heated comb on cloth or paper. Adjust the temperature of the comb to the texture and condition of the client’s hair. Be careful to avoid burning the skin, scalp, or hair. Dry the hair completely before pressing. 15. What are the five key points you must consider before beginning an updo. Answer: The five key points to consider before beginning an updo are: Preparation; Sectioning; Pinning; Balance; Texture. 16. Name the two basic hairstyles considered the foundation of every updo and long hairstyling. Answer: The two basic hairstyles considered the foundation of every updo and long hairstyling are: Ponytail French pleat (continues) 88

17. Name the four basic curl patterns and their specific end results. 18. Describe a half updo. What length is it designed for? CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 17. Name the four basic curl patterns and their specific end results. Answer: The four basic curl patterns and their specific end results are: Root curl: creates volume of hair, movement, and a curl formation from roots to ends. Spiral curl: creates a corkscrew effect. Waves: create an S pattern. End curls: hair ends can be turned under or over to give a finished appearance. 18. Describe a half updo. What length is it designed for? Answer: A half updo is where half of the hair is pulled back off the face and pinned at or below the crown. The half updo is designed for long and very long hair. 89

Chapter 17 Hairstyling 1.

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