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Fibre and fabric finishes
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Fibre and fabric finishes
Fabrics already feature some natural characteristics or properties by the way they are made. For example, some get their strength from how they are woven. In order to be fit for purpose, some fabrics benefit from other qualities, such as being crease-resistant. This means that they do not have to be ironed. Making products suitable for their end use is the reason why fabric finishes are so useful and important. Fabrics often go through a finishing process in order to improve their appearance/properties. Shirts benefit from a crease-resistant finish so that they look crisp and professional all day long.
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Types of fabric finishes
Physical A machine or tool physically changes the fabric in some way. Chemical A chemical is used to alter or change the fabric in some way. Biological Bacteria and enzymes are used on plant-based fibres to change them in some way. Coated Fabric is coated on one side to add a surface that might repel stains or water.
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Why are fabric finishes used ?
Fabric finishes are used to improve fabrics in many ways including the following: Enhance appearance, colour, pattern, sheen Change texture, embossing, brushing, smoothing Improve feel, softer, crisper, firmer Improve drape Modify wearing qualities – crease resistant, stain resistant, flammability, waterproofing Modify care requirements – easy wash, quicker drying times, colourfast, less shrinkage
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Brushing Brushing is a finish where the pile of the fabric is brushed by wire rollers to create a raised nap. This gives the fabric a softer handle and also helps to trap air within the nap to create extra warmth. This finish is mainly applied to bed linen and interior fabrics. This quality is particularly appealing for bed sheets or cushions.
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Calendering Calendering is a finish where the fabric is made smoother by heavy rollers pressing the surface. This also creates a lustre or sheen. This finish is mainly applied to interior fabrics due to its aesthetic qualities. There is also less chance of pilling or bobbling with repeated use, due to the improved smoothness.
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Embossing This is done under heat and pressure, giving a three dimensional raised effect to the surface of the fabric. Textile embossing is usually done on a smooth surface and it created an impression of a pattern on the surface that will usually survive50-60 washings.
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Pressing Pressing is used to smooth the surface of the fabric. This is done with most fabric products at some point to help improve the handle and aesthetic appeal of a product. The pre-cure press finish means that the product will press or iron easily, or need little ironing at all. This finish is particularly popular for suits and shirts.
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Water-repellent finish
To create this finish, silicone is sprayed on to the fabric’s surface to repel water. Do not get this confused with waterproofing, as some garments need the wearer’s skin to breathe. If a product is waterproof, it stops air passing through it as well. This finish is crucial for outdoor wear, including all-weather sport, industrial or outdoor work wear, mountaineering, and everyday protection from the British weather. It is not only clothing that needs to be water-repellent, but bags and equipment too! NOT waterproof
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Flame-resistant finish
Flame resistance is important for all sorts of products. As well as for furniture and household textiles, it is important in protective work wear. This chemical finish means that the fabric is less likely to ignite if exposed to heat or a naked flame. Welders, construction workers, police, firemen and bomb disposal experts all need this sort of protection.
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Stain-resistant finish
Stain resistant finishes are applied to the surface of a fabric. They prevent dirt from clinging to the surface of the fabric. Stain resistant finishes are often put onto upholstery fabrics.
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Crease-resistant finish
Resins are applied to the fabric. The fabric creases less but is crisper. Shrink-resistant finish Fibre scales on wool are removed using chlorine, or resins block the scales. This reduces shrinking in the wash.
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Smart textile finishes
Smart textile finishes offer new and exciting performance characteristics to textiles. One example is Outlast®. This new technology interacts with the climate of the human body and the environment to ensure that the wearer remains at a moderate temperature. Sweat or moisture is reduced significantly, which keeps the wearer dry and comfortable. The range of uses for Outlast® is growing. Below are just a few products that currently make good use of this finish.
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Smart textile finishes
Another smart finish being widely used for sports wear is the use of anti-microbial finishes. The need to protect fabrics from mildew, odour and rotting has seen the development of this finish increase, as it stops the growth of microbes. Other than clothing, applications of this finish include medical, interior and industrial. It also means that sportsmen and women can remain fresh and odourless. Companies maximise on this feature by advertising their products as ‘stink-proof’.
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Key Words Brushing Calendering Embossing Pressing Water-repellent finish Fire-resistant finish Stain-resistant finish Crease-resistant finish Smart textile finishes
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