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GLOBAL TRENDS IN THE GARMENT SECTOR AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR BANGLADESH:
THE DUET OF SUSTAINABILITY & COMPETITIVENESS Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President, BGMEA CONFERENCE ON SUSTAINABLE SOURCING IN THE GARMENT SECTOR Dhaka, 29 September, 2016
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INTRO Dynamics of global sourcing has been evolving with the changes in global trade and tariffs, realities, rules and policies. The emerging sourcing opportunities are creating opportunities for all – Entrepreneurs Workers Buyers Consumers Bangladesh being the second largest apparel sourcing country and a leader in sustainable and responsible business has immense potentials to further grow its market share.
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1978 1985 1995 2005 2010 2013 2016 2021 TIMELINE RMG industry started its journey with $10000 exports made by 1200 workers Export reached $116 million 0.12 million workers and 384 factories Export hit $2.2 billion Eliminated Child Labor through Earn & Learn program Rise of purpose built compliant factories Export $6.4 billion MFA Quota phased out which was predicted to have severe consequence Export $12.5 billion Ranked 2nd largest RMG exporting country despite global recession Export $21.52 billion Rana Plaza & Tazreen accidents erupted the issue of workplace safety Export $28 billion 10-years of MFA phase out. Export quadrupled, employment 4.4 mil. Major progress in safety & workers rights Vision has been set at $50 billion exports Workplace safety, environmental sustainability, & excellence in product & market diversification envisioned
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WORLD CLOTHING TRADE 2015 IN BILLION US DOLLAR
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EMERGING GLOBAL TEXTILE & CLOTHING HUB
ASIA EMERGING GLOBAL TEXTILE & CLOTHING HUB Share of Asia and rest of the world (ROW) in global clothing exports, measured in US$ ?
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Y-O-Y EXPORT GROWTH% OF MAJOR CLOTHING SUPPLYING COUNTRIES, MEASURED IN US$
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APPAREL EXPORT OF BANGLADESH VALUES IN BILLION US$, FY1985-FY2016
Last 10 years compound annual growth rate (CAGR) is 12.43%
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SNAPSHOT: TEXTILE & CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN BANGLADESH
Number of Clothing Factories 3800 around 4.4 Million workers Investment $11 billion around 394 spinning & 777 textile mills 99% accessories made locally Exports to around 130 countries Export $28 billion
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MAJOR MARKETS OF BANGLADESH’S APPAREL
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Versatility & Adaptability
WHY BANGLADESH STRENGTHS 35 years experience Price Quality Workforce Safe & Compliant Transparent Green Commitment Market Access Versatility & Adaptability Backward Linkage
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SAFER PRODUCTION IN BANGLADESH
Remediation completed by 70% ACCORD suppliers and 63% of ALLIANCE suppliers Fit for Operation: 98.94% Inspected factories: 3746 (100%)
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WORLD’S TOP RATED LEED CERTIFIED INDUSTRIAL ESTABLISHMENTS ARE IN BANGLADESH
GLOBAL AWARD WINNER GREEN LANDSCAPING APPAREL FACTORY AT DHAKA A PLATINUM LEED CERTIFIED WOVEN FACTORY AT DHAKA 33 LEED certified factories 150 more factories in LEED certification pipeline World’s highest rated knitwear, woven, washing and Denim mills A PLATINUM LEED CERTIFIED WASHING FACTORY AT DHAKA
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BANGLADESH IS BLESSED WITH HUMAN RESOURCES
70% of the population is under 40 yrs old Large educated and motivated youth High literacy rate (72%) among youths aged 15-24 Inspired young, hungry for work and growth 2 million youth entering in job market each year Labor cost advantage 117 million mobile phone users 33% internet penetration
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THE NICHE PROJECT Within the Niche project "CSR & SRHR in the RMG sector in Bangladesh", funded by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, an international consortium and the BGMEA University for Fashion & Technology (BUFT) is working to improve vocational training on CSR & SRHR in the textile sector in Bangladesh. Part of the project is the establishment of a Centre of Excellence (CoE) which will offer research, training and consultancy services to the textile sector in Bangladesh. The CoE will be operational in 2017. The CoE will mainly respond to the changing (market) demand for Dutch buyers because of the textile covenant, the sustainable procurement policy of the government and the transition trajectories by CSR Netherlands. It involves, for example, the increasing demand for circular fabrics and mass customization. BUFT and the CoE will provide the industry in Bangladesh soon the opportunity to get familiar with these new trends and developments and how circular garment concepts in Bangladesh can take shape. A well-functioning technical university as BUFT is indispensable to maintain the Bangladesh textile industry modern and competitive in a rapidly changing world.
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MARKET ACCESS FOR BANGLADESH
EU (28) GSP: Duty free access for apparel on 1-stage Rules of Origin. Japan GSP: Duty free access for apparel on 1-stage Rules of Origin. Canada GSP: Canada provides Zero duty access on 25% value addition requirement Switzerland GSP: Duty free access for apparel on 1-stage Rules of Origin. Norway GSP: Duty free access for apparel on 1-stage Rules of Origin. Australia & New Zealand GSP: Australia & New Zealand provides Zero duty access on 25% value addition requirement (subject to additional 25% sourcing from GSP beneficiary countries) China Duty Free: China provides Zero duty access for 60% items under global initiative through WTO, this will be enhanced to 97% products. India: Zero duty access to all apparel items under SAFTA. Chile: Duty free access for apparel. Malaysia, Thailand & South Korea: Provide duty free access to a number of apparel items from Bangladesh.
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OUR PRIORITIES Product & Market Diversification
OPPORTUNITIES Product & Market Diversification Technology & Efficiency Enhancement Developing Professionals & Skills
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BANGLADESH IS GETTING READY
100 Special Economic Zones in next 15 years Enhancing electricity supply to 20,000 MW from 13280MW at present LNG terminals being set up to meet demand for gas Mega projects on rail, road, sea and airports going on The Padma bridge will open a new horizon of opportunities Focused drive on Cleaner Production PADMA BRIDGE – connecting people to prosperity
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BANGLADESH ECONOMY STANDING STRONG
July2008-June2009 July2015-June2016 GDP Growth 5.74% 7.05% Manufacturing Growth 6.68% 10.30% Export $15.57 billion $34 billion Import $22.51 billion $40.03 billion Private Investment as % of GDP 19.67% 21.78% FDI Inflow (In US$) $960.50 Million $2.24 billion Per Capita GNI (US$) $676 $1466 Poverty rate 40% 22.4% Remittance $9.69 billion $14.93 billion Foreign Exchange reserve $30.14 Billion Inflation 8.7% 5.92% Bangladesh has become the Lower Middle Income Country from an LDC based on GNI performance Vision to graduate to a Middle Income Country by 2021 Becoming a Developed Country by 2041
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COLLABORATION MODEL FOR WIN-WIN-WIN
Responsible Production & Supply Chain Happy Workforce Ethical Sourcing & Fair Price
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WELFARE ACTIVITIES BGMEA has been providing Grievance Management facilities to the garment workers at free of cost since The Committee is headed by a retired District Judge and participated by workers and owners representatives. BGMEA is providing regular training programs on worker-management relations and Bangladesh Labor Act for both factory management and workers. Already 1072 workers and mid-level management staffs have been trained. BGMEA has opened a Trade Union Advisory cell having an ex-Joint Director of Labor as its head. The BEF, BGMEA and BKMEA with the support of ILO (ITC) has trained 114 senior master trainers. These master trainers will train 8,000 mid-management officials and 8,00,000 workers gradually by end of Such programs should be continued and expanded to build the capacity of the industry to facilitate harmonious industrial relations. 12 Health Centers for the workers; serves more than 60,000 patients per year
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WELFARE ACTIVITIES BGMEA is constructing two full-fledged Hospitals for the workers, one 100 bedded in Chittagong (part of it came in to operation already) and another 150 bedded in Dhaka Awareness raising for prevention of HIV/AIDS, Tuberculosis, reproductive health and the use of contraceptive devices BGMEA in collaboration with the Govt. runs several Skills Training Centers in different areas of the country. BGMEA runs Five Schools for the workers’ children and provides books & study materials at free of cost. The BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) BGMEA jointly with the Government of Bangladesh has taken initiative to establish Dormitories in Chittagong and Ashulia BGMEA organizes musical talent hunt program GORBO
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SUSTAINABILITY People Planet Profit
BGMEA runs awareness program on regular basis to motivate the entrepreneurs in adopting energy efficient technologies, machines and work process In order to institutionalize the process, BGMEA has set up an Environment Cell “Partnership for Cleaner Textile - PaCT” between BGMEA, the Government of the Netherlands IFC and a number of apparel buyers Toward Resource Efficiency & Environmental Sustainability (TREES) with GIZ to build capacity of relatively smaller factories on environmental best practices. People Planet Profit
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Thank You !
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