1. Chapter 21
Haircoloring

2. Learning Objectives List the reasons why people color their hair.
Explain how the hair’s porosity affects haircolor.
Understand the types of melanin found in hair.
Define and identify levels and their role in formulating haircolor.
Identify primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
Know what roles tone and intensity play in haircolor.
List and describe the categories of haircolor.
(continues) 2

3. Learning Objectives (continued)
Explain the role of hydrogen peroxide in a haircolor formula.
Explain the action of hair lighteners.
List the five key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor.
Understand why a patch test is useful in haircoloring.
Define what a preliminary strand test is and why it is used.
(continues) 3

4. Learning Objectives (continued)
List and describe the procedure for a virgin single-process color service.
Understand the two processes involved in double-process haircoloring.
Describe the various forms of hair lightener.
Understand the purpose and use of toners.
Name and describe the three most commonly used methods for highlighting.
(continues) 4

5. Learning Objectives (continued)
Know how to properly cover gray hair.
Know the rules of color correction.
Know the safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.
WHY STUDY HAIRCOLOING?
Haircolor services provide stylists and clients with an opportunity for creative expression and artistry.
Clients increasingly ask for and require excellent haircoloring services to cover gray, to enhance their haircuts, and to camouflage face-shape imperfections.
Haircolor products employ strong chemical ingredients to accomplish services, so being aware of what these chemicals are and how they work will enable you to safely provide color services for your clients. 5

6. Introduction Nearly all adults and many teens now color their hair.
You will probably find that most of your clients, at some time or another, will want to enhance their hair color, change their hair color, or cover gray.
Clients who have their hair colored usually visit the salon every three to twelve weeks.
These are the kind of regular guests you want in your client base.
INTRODUCTION
One of the most creative, challenging, and inspiring salon services is haircoloring. Due to its popularity, it also has the potential for being one of the most lucrative areas in which a stylist can choose to work.
Nearly all adults and many teens now color their hair.
You will probably find that most of your clients, at some time or another, will want to enhance their hair color, change their hair color, or cover gray.
Clients who have their hair colored usually visit the salon every three to twelve weeks.
These are the kind of regular guests you want in your client base. 6

7. LESSON ACTIVITY 1
Ask students to raise their hands if they’ve ever colored or has their hair colored.
Ask each of them why they did so and discuss the various answers in class (to cover gray, to add highlights, to brighten it up, etc.). 7

8. Why People Color Their Hair
Cover up or blend gray hair
Enhance existing hair color
Create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression
Correct unwanted tones
Accentuate a particular haircut
UNDERSTAND WHY PEOPLE COLOR THEIR HAIR
It is important to have an understanding of what motivates people to color their hair. This information will help you determine which products and haircolor services are appropriate for your client. A few common reasons clients color their hair include the following:
Cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair.
Enhance an existing haircolor.
Create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression.
Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure such as sun or chlorine.
Accentuate a particular haircut. 8

9. Hair color vs. Haircolor
Hair color – Refers to the natural color of the hair.
Haircolor – a professional, industry-coined term referring to products and services for artificially coloring the hair.
HAIRCOLOR VS. HAIR COLOR
For example, you might say, “Mary Stewart’s natural hair color is medium brown, but she is coming in today for a haircolor service to have low lights created.” 9

10. Review Hair Facts
The structure of the hair and the desired results determine which haircolor to use.
Cuticle – outermost layer that contributes 20 percent of overall strength
Cortex – middle layer that contributes 80 percent of overall strength
Medulla – innermost layer (sometimes absent)
REVIEW HAIR FACTS
The structure of the hair and the desired results determine which haircolor to use.
The hair structure affects the quality and ultimate success of the haircolor service.
Some haircolor products may cause a dramatic change in the structure of the hair, while others cause relatively little change. 10

11. Texture Coarse – large hair-strand diameter
Medium – medium hair-strand diameter
Fine small hair-strand diameter
TEXTURE
The diameter of an individual hair strand. Melanin is distributed differently according to texture.
Coarse: Large diameter
Medium: Medium diameter
Fine: Small diameter 11

12. Density Number of hairs per square inch Refers to hair thickness 12
The number of hairs per square inch (centimeter) on the head
We have often referred to this as how thick hair is.
Density will affect haircolor application to ensure proper and complete coverage. 12

13. Porosity The ability of the hair to absorb moisture
Porous hair accepts haircolor faster and permits a darker color than less-porous hair.

14. Types of Porosity Low porosity – tight cuticle, resistant hair
Average porosity – cuticle slightly raised; average processing time
High porosity – cuticle lifted; quicker processing time
Test for porosity – finger and thumb test
POROSITY
Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, and haircolor application on porous hair can result in a cooler tone than applications on less porous hair.
Low porosity: The cuticle is tight. The hair is resistant, which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate. Thus, it requires a longer processing time.
Average porosity: The cuticle is slightly raised and processes in an average amount of time.
High porosity: The cuticle is lifted; hair is overporous and takes color quickly; color tends to fade more quickly as well.
Test for porosity: Take a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head: the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape. Hold the strands securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp.
If the hair feels smooth, the cuticle is compact, dense, and hard and the hair has low porosity. If you feel roughness, it has average porosity. If it feels very rough, dry, or breaks, it has high porosity.
Observe hair wet and dry to observe porosity. Extremely porous hair rejects warmth when color is applied and can process more quickly and result in deeper color. 14

15. LESSON ACTIVITY 2
Ask for student volunteers to come forward and check one another’s hair porosity. Discuss findings. 15

16. Identify Natural Hair Color and Tone
Melanin in the cortex
Eumelanin – gives black and brown color
Pheomelanin – gives blond and red colors
Mixed melanin – contains both eumelanin and pheomelanin
Contributing pigment – also known as undertone
IDENTIFY NATURAL HAIR COLOR AND TONE
Learning to identify a client’s natural hair color is the most important step in becoming a good colorist. Natural hair color ranges from black to dark brown to red, and from dark blond to light blond. Hair color is unique to each individual; no two people have exactly the same color. There are three types of melanin in the cortex:
Eumelanin: Melanin that gives black and brown color to hair.
Pheomelanin: This melanin gives blond and red colors to hair.
Mixed melanin: Natural hair contains both eumelanin and pheomelanin.
Contributing pigment: This is also known as undertone. It is the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a color process. The foundation of haircoloring is based on modifying this pigment with haircolor to create new pigment. 16

17. Level System Unit of measurement Identifies lightness or darkness
Arranged on scale of 1 to 10
1 being darkest
10 being lightest
Courtesy of P&G Salon Professional. Clairol Professional.
LEVEL SYSTEM
A level is the unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. The level system is a system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
Haircolor levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest.
Although the names for the color levels may vary among manufacturers, the important thing is being able to identify the degrees of lightness to darkness (depth) in each level. 17

18. Identifying Natural Level
Take a ½-inch square section in the crown area.
Match swatches.
Compare strand to determine level.
IDENTIFYING NATURAL LEVEL
Your most valuable tool is the color wheel. Haircolor swatch books provide a visual representation as well.
Take ½-inch (1.25 centimeter) square
Take a section in the crown area and hold it up from the scalp, allowing light to pass through.
Use the natural level-finder swatches provided by the manufacturer.
Select a swatch that you think matches the section of hair and place it against the hair. Remember, you are trying to determine depth level (darkness or lightness). Do not part or hold the hair flat against the scalp; that will give you an incorrect reading, as the hair will appear darker.
Move the swatch from the scalp area along the hair strand.
Determine the natural lights affect your perception of natural hair color; particularly fluorescent light, which distorts color drastically.
To identifying the level on previously colored hair, follow steps one and two above. However, instead of using the natural level finder, use the color swatches provided by the manufacturer. 18

19. Gray Hair The loss of pigment increases with age.
Most people retain a certain percentage of pigmented hair.
Gray hair can be solid or blended and requires special attention during haircoloring.
GRAY HAIR
Gray hair is hair that has lost its pigment and is normally associated with aging.
Even though the loss of pigment increases as a person ages, few people ever become completely gray-haired. Most retain a certain percentage of pigmented hair.
The gray can be solid or blended throughout the head as in salt-and-pepper hair.
Gray hair requires special attention in formulating haircolor. This will be discussed later in the chapter. 19

20. Determining Percentage of Gray Hair
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21. Color Theory
Color is the property of objects that depends on the light they reflect. It is perceived as red, green, blue, or other shades.
Base color – the predominant tone of a color.
COLOR THEORY
Color is described as a property of objects that depends on the light they reflect and is perceived (by the human eye) as red, yellow, blue, or other shades.
Thus, colors (the light reflected by objects that is perceivable) by definition are in the visible spectrum of light (see Chapter 13, Basics of Electricity).
Before you attempt to apply haircoloring products, it is important to have a general understanding of color theory.
Base color
Is the predominant tone of a color. 21

22. The Law of Color
A system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination.
Equal parts of red and blue make violet.
Equal parts of blue and yellow make green.
Equal parts of red and yellow make orange.
THE LAW OF COLOR
The law of color is a system of understanding color relationships.
The same combination renders the same results.
Equal parts of red and blue always make violet.
Equal parts of blue and yellow always make green.
Equal parts of yellow and red always make orange.
Refer to the color wheel in the textbook. 22

23. Primary Colors 23 PRIMARY COLORS
Pure colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture. The three primary colors are blue, red, and yellow.
Blue: Strongest of primary colors and the only cool primary color. It brings depth or darkness to colors when it is added.
Predominance of blue: Cool-toned colors.
Red: The medium primary color. Red added to blue-based colors will cause them to appear lighter. Red added to yellow colors will cause them to become darker.
Predominance of red: Warm-toned colors.
Yellow: The weakest primary color. When added to other colors, the resulting color is lighter and brighter in appearance.
Black: When all three colors are present in equal proportions, the resulting color is black.
Combinations of primary colors
It is helpful to think of hair color in terms of different combinations of primary colors. Natural brown, for example, has the primary colors in the following proportions: blue-B, red-RR, and yellow-YYY.
White can be used to lighten a color.
Black can be used to deepen a color. 23

24. Secondary Colors 24 SECONDARY COLORS
Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
Green: An equal combination of blue and yellow.
Orange: An equal combination of red and yellow.
Violet: An equal combination of blue and red. 24

25. Tertiary Colors 25 TERTIARY COLORS
Intermediate colors achieved by mixing a secondary color with its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts Tertiary colors:
Blue-green
Blue-violet
Red-orange
Yellow-orange
Yellow-green 25

26. LESSON ACTIVITY 3
Using primary-colored modeling clay—red, blue, and yellow—create secondary and tertiary colors. You will see that if you mix red clay with yellow clay in equal proportions, you will get orange.
If you mix red clay with orange clay, what is the result?
What happens if you change the proportion of each color?
The combinations are endless 26

27. Complementary Colors Blue and orange Red and green Yellow and violet
COMPLIMENTARY COLORS
These are a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel.
Complimentary colors neutralize each other. Understanding complimentary colors helps you make haircolor decisions to accomplish your desired goal. See Figure 21–13a found on page 677 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
Here is an easy reference guide for color correction:
When hair is green: use red to balance.
When hair is red: use green to balance.
When hair is blue: use orange to balance.
When hair is orange: use blue to balance.
When hair is yellow: use violet to balance.
When hair is violet: use yellow to balance. 27

28. LESSON ACTIVITY 4
Invite a couple of students who would like advice on color correction to come up to the front of the class. Now evaluate the color problem the student is dealing with, and ask the class to make recommendations on what color should be used to balance their current color. 28

29. Tone or Hue of Color Tone or hue – balance of color
Warm – golden, orange, red, and yellow
Cool – blue, green, and violet
Intensity – strength of color tone
TONE OR HUE OF COLOR
The balance of color. The tone or hue answers the question of which color to use based on the client’s desired results. These tones can be described as warm, cool, or neutral.
Warm tones: These appear lighter than their actual level. They are golden, orange, red, and yellow and are described as auburn, amber, copper, strawberry, and bronze.
Cool tones: These appear deeper than their actual level. They are blue, green, and violet and are described as smoky or ash.
Intensity
Refers to the strength of a color. It can be described as soft, medium, or strong. Color intensifiers are tones that can be added to a haircolor formula to intensify the result. 29

30. Base Color Base color is the predominant tone of a color.
Each color is identified by a number and a letter.
The number indicates the level and the letter indicates the tone. For example: 6G is level 6–Dark Blond with a G-Gold Base.
BASE COLOR
Base color is the predominant tone of a color.
Each color is identified by a number and a letter.
The number indicates the level and the letter indicates the tone.
For example: 6G is level 6–Dark Blond with a G-Gold Base. 30

31. Understand the Types of Haircolor
Nonoxidative haircolor
Oxidative haircolor
Lighteners, metallic haircolors, and natural colors
Developer and an alkalizing ingredient
UNDERSTAND THE TYPES OF HAIRCOLOR
Haircoloring products generally fall into two categories: nonoxidative and oxidative.
Nonoxidative haircolor: The classifications of nonoxidative haircolor are temporary and semipermanent (traditional).
Oxidative haircolor: The classifications of oxidative haircolor are demipermanent (deposit only) and permanent (lift and deposit).
All these products, except temporary color, require a patch test.
Lighteners, metallic haircolors, and natural colors: Are also discussed in this chapter. Each of these categories has a unique chemical composition that, in turn, affects the final color result and how long it will last.
Developer and an alkalizing ingredient: All permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient (See Chapter 12, Basics of Chemistry). The roles of the alkalizing ingredient—ammonia or an ammonia substitute—are as follows:
Raise the cuticle of the hair so that the haircolor can penetrate into the cortex.
Increase the penetration of dye within the hair.
Trigger the lightening action of peroxide. 31

32. Review of Haircolor Classifications
Haircoloring products generally fall into two categories: nonoxidative and oxidative.
Nonoxidative haircolor are temporary and semipermanent (traditional).
Oxidative haircolor are demipermanent (deposit only) and permanent (lift and deposit). All these products require a patch test.
All permanent haircolor products and lighteners contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing ingredient (See Chapter 12, Basics of Chemistry). The roles of the alkalizing ingredient—ammonia or an ammonia substitute—are as follows:
Raise the cuticle of the hair so that the haircolor can penetrate into the cortex.
Increase the penetration of dye within the hair.
Trigger the lightening action of peroxide. 32

33. Temporary Haircolor Does not penetrate cuticle layer Coats hair shaft
Neutralizes unwanted tones
Available in variety of colors and products
TEMPORARY COLOR
Are nonoxidation colors that make only a physical change, not a chemical change, in the hair shaft, and no patch test is required.
Pigment molecules are large. Do not penetrate the cuticle layer.
Coat the hair shaft only. Temporary color creates a physical change in the hair, not a chemical change.
Good for neutralizing unwanted tones.
Available in a variety of colors and products.
Color rinses: Applied with each shampoo to add color.
Colored mousses and gels: Used for slight color and for dramatic effects.
Hair mascara: Used for dramatic effects.
Spray-on haircolor: Easy to apply, used for special effects.
Color-enhancing shampoos: Used to brighten, impart slight color, and eliminate unwanted tones. 33

34. Semipermanent Lasts through several shampoos
Penetrates hair shaft; stains cuticle layer
Fades with each shampoo
Nonoxidation
Used out of bottle; requires patch test
SEMIPERMANENT
A no-lift deposit-only, nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos.
Lasts through several shampoos depending upon the hair’s porosity.
Pigment molecules are smaller. They partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer.
Diffuse out of hair during shampooing which causes fading with each shampoo.
A nonoxidation haircolor is not mixed with peroxide and only deposits color.
Requires a patch test. Perform the test 24 to 48 hours prior to application. 34

35. Demipermanent Haircolor
Deposits color; does not lift
Less alkaline than permanent colors
Ideal for:
– Introducing haircolor services
– Blending or covering gray
– Refresh faded color
– Color corrections
DEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
Also called no-lift deposit-only color; it deepens or creates a change in the tone of natural hair. It is available in gel, cream, or liquid. It requires a patch test 24 to 48 hours before application.
Deposits color; does not lift.
Less alkaline than permanent colors and is mixed with a low-volume developer. Mixed with a low-volume developer. Usually 10 volume.
Commonly known as haircolor glaze. A haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair. 35

36. Permanent Haircolor
Used to match and lighten hair, and to cover gray hair
Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and peroxide
They require a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to tints.
Contains aniline derivatives
Combine with H2O2 to form larger molecules
Removes natural pigment while adding artificial color
Best to cover gray
PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
Permanent haircolor can lighten and deposit color at the same time. It is more alkaline than no-lift deposit-only haircolor. It is mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide) and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs.
Used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair
Contains ammonia, oxidative application.
They require a patch test 24 to 48 hours prior to tints.
Contain aniline derivatives 36

37. Permanent Haircolor Action
Aniline derivatives are uncolored dye precursors which are very small compounds that can diffuse into the hair shaft.
Analine derivatives combine cannot be shampooed out.
Permanent tint molecules are trapped within the cortex and with H2O2 to form larger molecules.
Simultaneously removes natural pigment while adding artificial color
This action results in a natural-looking color.
Best product for covering gray hair
Used with water and shampoo as a soap cap
A soap cap is a combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used during the last five minutes of a haircolor service and worked through the hair to refresh the ends. 37

38. Natural Haircolor From leaves or bark of plants No lightening
Limited shade range
Professional products cannot be applied over
NATURAL HAIRCOLOR
Also known as vegetable haircolor; includes henna.
Obtained from leaves or bark of plants.
No lightening action occurs. Color results tend to be weak; process is lengthy and messy.
Shade ranges are limited to black, chestnut, and auburn tones.
Many professional products cannot be applied over natural haircolor. 38

39. Metallic Haircolors Also known as gradual haircolors
Contain metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic appearance
METALLIC HAIRCOLORS
Haircolors that are not generally used in the salon, but which you should still be familiar with, are natural or vegetable haircolors and metallic haircolors.
Metallic haircolors are also referred to as gradual colors.
Repeated use of these types of color can create a buildup on the hair causing a grayish or green cast and restrict the application of any chemical service.
Do not use oxidizing haircolor or haircolor with peroxide on hair that has been treated with metallic hair dye. If you do, the hair will swell and smoke, appearing to be boiling from the inside out. 39

40. Hydrogen Peroxide Developers
Developer – also called oxidizing agents or catalysts.
pH between 2.5 and 4.5
H2O2 most common
Volume
Lower volume, less lift
Higher volume, greater lift
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE DEVELOPERS
Hydrogen peroxide developer or a developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.
Also called oxidizing agents or catalysts
Have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5.
Volume measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. 40

41. Hydrogen Peroxide Volume and Uses
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE VOLUMEN AND USES
Lower volume, less lift
20-volume is standard; 10-volume is used for less lightening
Higher volume, greater lift
30-volume is used for additional lift; 40-volume is used with high-lift colors.
10-, 20-, 30-, or 40-volume hydrogen peroxide
The majority of haircolor products use 10-, 20-, 30-, or 40-volume hydrogen peroxide for proper color development.
Store volume
Store in a cool, dark, dry place.
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the most common developer. 41

42. Lighteners Lighten prior to color application.
Lighten to a desired shade.
Lighten and brighten existing shade.
Lighten only certain parts of hair.
Lighten dark natural or color-treated levels.
LIGHTENERS
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. Hydrogen peroxide serves as the oxidizing agent and begins to release oxygen when mixed with lightener.
Double-process application.
Two-step coloring wherein hair is prelightened first and toner or color is deposited afterward. 42

43. The Decolorizing Process
Natural hair goes through as many as ten stages of color as it lightens. The amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has, the strength of the lightening product, and the length of time the hair is processed.
The 10 degrees of natural hair decolorization:
Dark red-brown
Red-brown
Red
Red-orange
Orange
Orange-gold
Gold
Yellow-gold
Yellow
Pale yellow
(continues) 43

44. The Decolorizing Process (continued)
Contributing Pigment
Decolorize to appropriate level.
Apply new color.
THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS (continued)
Contributing pigment is the varying degree of warmth exposed during the lightening process.
First, hair is decolorized to the appropriate level.
Second, new color is applied to the artificial color that is added. Lightening to the correct stage is essential to a beautiful, controlled, desired result.
Natural pigment remains in the hair and contributes to deposit desired color. 44

45. LESSON ACTIVITY 5
Using the 10 degrees of the decolorizing process, ask students to identify and name the contributing pigment that remains at each stage. 45

46. Toners Applied to lightest degree of contributing pigment
Never lift past pale yellow
Hair will become mushy.
Hair will lose its elasticity.
Will be harsh and brittle when dry
Often suffers breakage to pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone with a toner.
TONERS
Traditional toners are semipermanent, demipermanent, long-lasting semipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve a pale and delicate color.
Applied to lightest degree of contributing pigment. The goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final result.
Toners can also be used after dimensional haircolor services.
Never lift past pale yellow. This will cause excessive damage.
Hair will become mushy.
Hair will lose its elasticity.
Hair will be harsh and brittle when dry.
Often suffers breakage to pale yellow and neutralizing the unwanted undertone with a toner. 46

47. Conduct an Effective Haircolor Consultation
Book 15 minutes of additional time.
Have client fill out client intake form.
Conduct in proper lighting.
Look at client directly.
Recommend two options.
Be honest.
CONDUCT AN EFFECTIVE HAIRCOLOR CONSULTATION
The consultation is the most critical part of the haircolor service. During the consultation, your client will communicate what he or she is looking for in a haircolor service. Allowing sufficient time for the consultation is the single most reliable way to help ensure a client’s satisfaction.
Book 15 minutes extra. During this time with a new client, make sure there are no interruptions.
Client fills out a client intake form.
Conduct it in proper lighting.
Look at the client directly, not through a mirror
Recommend two options.
Be honest. Do not promise more than you can deliver.
(continues) 47

48. Conduct an Effective Haircolor Consultation (continued)
Gain approval from the client.
Start the haircolor service.
Educate regarding home care, products, and rebooking.
Finish completing the client’s haircolor service record card.
CONDUCT AN EFFECTIVE HAIRCOLOR CONSULTATION (continued)
Gain approval from the client.
Start the haircolor service.
Educate regarding home care, products, and rebooking.
Finish completing the client’s haircolor service record card. 48

49. Haircolor Service Record Card49

50. LESSON ACTIVITY 6
Ask for a volunteer, and conduct a thorough haircolor consultation with that student for the class to observe. 50

51. Release Statement 51 RELEASE STATEMENT
Used by salons and schools when providing a chemical service to inform the guest that there is a risk in the having any chemical service because the clients hair is in questionable condition.
Use to explain risks
Used to protect school/salon
Not a legal, binding contract 51

52. Formulate Haircolor Five Basic Questions
What is the natural level, and does it include gray hair?
What is the level and tone of the previously colored hair?
What is the client’s desired level and tone?
Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed?
What colors should be mixed to get the desired result?
FORMULATE HAIRCOLOR
Five basic questions are:
What is the natural level, and does it include gray hair?
What is the level and tone of the previously colored hair?
What is the client's desired level and tone?
Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed?
What colors should be mixed to get the desired result? 52

53. Deposit and Lifting Ability
The combination of the shade selected and the volume of hydrogen peroxide determines the deposit and lifting ability of a haircolor.
DEPOSIT AND LIFTING ABILITY
Always remember to formulate with both lift and deposit in mind in order to achieve the proper balance for the desired end result. 53

54. Mixing Permanent Haircolors
Applicator bottle
Bottle must be large enough for color and developer.
Mix according to manufacturer’s directions.
Brush and bowl
Use nonmetallic bowl.
Pour developer first, then product.
blend thoroughly.
MIXING PERMANENT HAIRCOLORS
Applicator bottle
Be sure that the applicator bottle is large enough to hold both the color and developer, with enough air space to shake the bottle until the mixture is thoroughly mixed.
By lightly squeezing the bottle and covering the top with your finger before shaking, you will prevent color from escaping the bottle after mixing.
For a 1:1 ratio, pour 1 ounce of the color into the bottle, add 1 ounce of developer, put the top on the bottle, and shake gently.
For a 1:2 ratio, pour 1 ounce of the color into the bottle, add 2 ounces of developer, and mix. The latter ratio is for most permanent high-lift blond colors.
Brush and bowl
Use a nonmetallic mixing bowl.
Measure and add the developer into the bowl.
Add the color or colors you have selected in the appropriate proportions.
Using a plastic whisk or an applicator brush, stir the mixture until it is blended. 54

55. Patch Test A test for identifying a possible allergy in a client.
The color used for the patch test must be the same as the color that will be used for the haircolor service.
A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates that the color may be safely applied.
A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt.
PATCH TEST
Also known as predisposition test
If a person is having her or his hair colored with a level 5 with brown and red tones, use that same shade in the patch test.
A client with allergic symptoms should under no circumstances receive a haircolor service with the haircolor tested.
See Procedure 21-1, Performing a Patch Test, found on page 710 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 55

56. Apply Haircolor
To ensure successful results when performing haircoloring services, the colorist must follow a prescribed procedure and never leave the client unattended while the haircolor is processing.
APPLY HAIRCOLOR
To ensure successful results when performing haircoloring services, the colorist must follow a prescribed procedure and never leave the client unattended while the haircolor is processing. 56

57. Preliminary Strand Test
Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
The strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the coloring service.
PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST
The strand test determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
The strand test is performed after the client is prepared for the coloring service.
See Procedure 21-2, Preliminary Strand Test, found on page 712 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 57

58. Temporary Colors
There are many methods of applying a temporary color, depending on the product used.
You may apply colored gels, mousses, foams, or sprays at your workstation after your client has been shampooed.
Always use and apply these color products according to the manufacturer’s directions.
TEMPORARY COLORS
There are many methods of applying a temporary color, depending on the product used.
How to apply
You may apply colored gels, mousses, foams, or sprays at your workstation after your client has been shampooed.
Follow manufacturer’s directions for application
Always use and apply these color products according to the manufacturer's directions.
See Procedure 21-3, Temporary Haircolor Application, found on page 714 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 58

59. Semipermanent Haircolors
Semipermanent colors only deposit color and do not lighten color.
Remember that color applied on top of existing color always creates a deeper color and alters the tone.
The porosity of the hair will determine how well these products saturate the hair.
Traditional semipermanent colors can build up on the hair ends with repeated applications.
SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLORS
Semipermanent colors only deposit color and do not lighten hair color. When choosing a semipermanent color, remember that color applied on top of existing hair color always creates a deeper color and alters the tone.
Porosity of the hair
The porosity of the hair will determine how well these products saturate the hair.
Repeat applications
Being deposit-only, traditional semipermanent colors can build up on the hair ends with repeated applications.
Strand test
A strand test will help determine the formula and processing time before the service. 59

60. Demipermanent Haircolor
The application is similar to traditional semipermanent color.
Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for application and processing time for the product you have selected.
Gray hair presents special challenges when formulating demipermanent haircolor.
Hair that has previously received a color service will have a greater degree of porosity.
DEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR
The application procedure for demipermanent haircolor is similar to that of a traditional semipermanent color, since neither process alters the hair’s natural melanin or produces lift.
Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for application and processing time for the product you have selected.
Gray hair presents special challenges when formulating demipermanent haircolor. Because there is no lift, the resulting depth of color when covering gray hair may appear too harsh unless you allow for some brightness and warmth in your formulation.
Selecting a shade that is one level lighter than the natural color is recommended, so that the gray hair looks somewhat highlighted against the natural color. This will deliver a more natural-looking result.
Hair that has previously received a color service will have a greater degree of porosity, which must also be taken into consideration when formulating and applying a demipermanent haircolor.
See Procedure 21-4, Demipermanent Haircolor Application, found on page 716 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 60

61. Single-Process Permanent Color
Virgin application
Retouch application
Single-process color retouch
SINGLE-PROCESS PERMANENT COLOR
Single-process haircoloring lightens and deposits color in a single application.
Virgin application: Refers to the first time the hair is colored.
See Procedure 21-5 Single Process Color on Virgin Hair, found on page 718 of Milady Standard Cosmetology.
Single-process color retouch:
As the hair grows, you will need to apply haircolor to the new growth to keep it looking attractive and to avoid a two-toned effect. This is called a retouch.
The procedure provided for applying color to new growth and to refresh faded ends also includes the application of a glaze, a nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair.
For both applications, follow the same preparation steps as for the virgin single-process procedure, including a consultation and patch test. 61

62. Applying Color to New Growth and Faded Ends
Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of demarcation, which is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
Process color according to your analysis and strand test results.
Bringing permanent haircolor through the ends to refresh faded color can cause unnecessary damage to the hair.
APPLYING COLOR TO NEW GROWTH AND FADED ENDS
Steps for applying color to new growth and faded ends:
Apply color to the new growth only, being careful not to overlap on previously colored hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of demarcation, which is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
Process color according to your analysis and strand test results.
Bringing permanent haircolor through the ends to refresh faded color can cause unnecessary damage to the hair.
Instead formulate a demipermanent haircolor for the ends to match the new growth.
Work the demipermanent color through to the ends. Then shampoo and condition.
Remember that the same color formula used with different volumes of peroxide will produce different results.
See Procedure 21-6, Permanent Single-Process Retouch with a Glaze, found on page 720 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 62

63. Double-Process Haircolor
Hair lightening – bleaching or decolorizing
Double-process high-lift coloring – two step blonding
Pre-lightening – applied the same as hair lightening
DOUBLE-PROCESS HAIRCOLOR
Hair lightening: Also known as bleaching or decolorizing, which involves the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair.
Double-process high-lift coloring: Also known as two-step blonding; the hair is prelightened first and then toned.
Pre-lightening: The first step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner.
See Procedure 21-7, Lightening Virgin Hair, found on page 722 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 63

64. Show How to Use Lighteners
Three Forms of Lighteners
Oil
– On-the-scalp lightener
Cream
Powder
– Off-the-scalp lightener
SHOW HOW TO USE LIGHTENERS
Oil
Cream: Oil and cream are both considered to be on-the-scalp lighteners.
Powder: Some powders can be applied on the scalp. They are considered to be off-the-scalp lighteners. 64

65. On-the-Scalp Lighteners
Oil and cream are the most popular.
Mildest
Appropriate for one/two levels of lift
ON-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS
Oil and cream are easy to apply.
Oil lighteners: Oil lighteners are the mildest and appropriate for one/two levels of lift.
Cream lighteners: Cream lighteners are strong enough for high-lift blonding but conditioning agents give some protection to the hair and scalp.
Thickeners: Thickeners give more control during application. Because cream lighteners do not run or drip, overlapping is prevented during retouching services.
Activators: Cream lighteners may be mixed with activators in the form of dry crystals. Activators also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators, are powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.
Activators are used in powdered off-the-scalp hair lighteners. They are also added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its lifting power.
The more activators you use, the lighter the hair will be.
Make sure to mix activators according to manufacturer's directions. 65

66. Powdered Off-the-Scalp Lighteners
Called quick lighteners
Not applied to scalp
Strong enough for blonding
Contain oxygen-releasing boosters
Dry out more quickly than other lighteners
Expand and spread out during processing
POWDERED OFF-THE-SCALP LIGHTENERS
Also known as quick lighteners, are powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.
Powdered lighteners are strong, fast-acting lighteners in powdered form.
Some powders are designed for on-scalp, double-process blonding.
There are other powders that are specifically designed for off-scalp use.
Contain persulfate salts for quicker and stronger lightening.
Powdered off-the-scalp lighteners.
They may dry out more quickly than other types of lighteners, but they do not run or drip.
Most powder lighteners expand and spread out as processing continues. 66

67. Time Factors Darker hair has more melanin and takes longer to lighten.
Porosity influences timing.
Tone influences timing.
Strength of product influences timing.
Heat leads to quicker lightening.
TIME FACTORS  
Darker hair has more melanin. The more melanin, the longer it takes to lighten.
Timing influenced by porosity. Porous hair lightens faster than nonporous hair.
Tone influences timing. The greater the percentage of red reflected in the natural color, the more difficult it is to achieve the delicate shades of a pale blond. Ash blonds are especially difficult to achieve because the melanin must be diffused sufficiently to alter both the level and tone of the hair.
Strength of product. Stronger lighteners attain pale shades faster.
Heat leads to quicker lightening. Stages must be carefully observed. If the natural pigment is excessively diffused, the toner may not develop properly in the hair shaft and it may “grab” the base color, giving hair an ashy, unpigmented tone. 67

68. Preliminary Strand Test
Watch the strand carefully for its reaction to the lightening mixture, especially noting any discoloration or breakage.
Reconditioning may be required prior to toning.
If the test shows that the hair is not light enough, increase the strength of the mixture and/or increase the processing time.
If the hair strand is too light, decrease the strength of the mixture and/or decrease the processing time.
PRELIMINARY STRAND TEST
Perform a preliminary strand test prior to lightening in order to determine the processing time, the condition of the hair after lightening, and the end results.
Watch the strand carefully for its reaction to the lightening mixture, especially noting any discoloration or breakage. Reconditioning may be required prior to toning.
Results: If the test shows that the hair is not light enough, increase the strength of the mixture and/or increase the processing time. If the hair strand is too light, decrease the strength of the mixture and/or decrease the processing time.
Toner requires a patch test: A patch test must be taken 24 to 48 hours prior to each application of a toner containing aniline derivatives. 68

69. Lightener Retouch Lighten new growth first.
Proceed as for virgin lightener, except apply product to new growth only.
A cream lightener is generally used for a lightener retouch.
Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation.
LIGHTENER RETOUCH
New growth is the part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored.
New growth will become obvious as the hair grows.
When performing a retouch, always lighten the new growth first.
The procedure for a lightener retouch is the same as that for lightening a virgin head of hair, except that the mixture is applied only to the new growth as long as that growth is ½-inch long or less.
A cream lightener is generally used for a lightener retouch because it is less irritating to the scalp and its consistency helps prevent overlapping of previously lightened hair.
Overlapping can cause severe breakage and lines of demarcation. 69

70. Express How to Use Toners
Contributing pigment
Read manufacturer literature
Underlightened hair
EXPRESS HOW TO USE TONERS
Toners are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors.
Toners require a double-process application. The first process is the application of the lightener; the second process is the application of the toner. No-lift, demipermanent haircolors are often used as toners.
Contributing pigment: The contributing pigment is the color that remains in the hair after lightening. It is essential that you achieve the correct foundation in order to create the right color and degree of porosity required for proper toner development.
Read manufacturer literature: It is important to follow the literature closely and to understand that overlightened hair will grab the color of the toner.
Overlightened hair
It is not advisable to pre-lighten past the pale-yellow stage. This will create overly porous hair that will not have enough natural pigment left to create the desired effect.
Underlightened hair
Underlightened hair, on the other hand, will appear to have more red, yellow, or orange than the intended color. 70

71. Toner Application
Your speed and accuracy are both important factors in the application and will determine, to a large extent, whether you get good color results.
The procedure for applying low- or nonperoxide toners may vary. Check with your instructor for directions.
TONER APPLICATION
Proceed with the application only if the patch test results are negative and the hair is in good condition.
Your speed and accuracy are both important factors in the application and will determine, to a large extent, whether you get good color results.
See Procedure 21-8, Toner Application, found on page 724 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 71

72. Create Special Effects Haircoloring Techniques
Color some strands lighter than natural color.
Adds variety of lighter shades and illusion of depth.
Does not contrast strongly with natural color.
Light colors cause the light to advance toward the eye, to appear larger, and to make details more visible.
CREATE SPECIAL EFFECTS USING HAIRCOLORING TECHNIQUES
Special effects haircoloring refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. Coloring for special effects can be thought of as a pure fashion technique. It is a versatile and exciting haircoloring service.
Highlighting is coloring some strands lighter than natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and illusion of depth. Does not usually contrast strongly with natural color and lighter colors advance to the eye to appear larger. Details become more visible. 72

73. Reverse Highlighting Called lowlighting
Some strands colored darker than natural
Receding, smaller appearance of dark areas
REVERSE HIGHLIGHTING
Also called lowlighting
Coloring some strands darker than natural
Dark areas recede and appear smaller.
Details become less visible. 73

74. Cap Technique
Cap technique – involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook.
The number of strands pulled through the cap determines the degree of highlighting achieved.
Photography by Tom Carson.
CAP TECHNIQUE
The cap technique involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles. The number of strands pulled through determines the amount of hair that will be highlighted or lowlighted. 74

75. Foil Technique
Foil technique – involves coloring selected strands by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and sealing them in the wrap.
FOIL TECHNIQUE
The foil technique involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap for processing.
You can also apply permanent haircolor to the strands to create softer, more natural-looking highlights.
The same technique can be used for lowlighting. When lowlighting, the use of a demipermanent color is an option. 75

76. Slicing
Involves making a straight part at scalp, positioning a narrow ⅛-inch section of hair over foil, and applying lightener or color
SLICING
Slicing involves taking a narrow, ⅛-inch (0.3 centimeter) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color. 76

77. Weaving
Involves selecting strands that are picked up using a zigzag motion of the comb
WEAVING
With weaving, selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands.
See Procedure 21-9, Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil (Full Head), found on page 726 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 77

78. Baliage Technique Involves painting product onto clean, styled hair
Also known as the free-form technique
BALIAGE TECHNIQUE
Sometimes spelled balyage, also known as free-form technique
Iinvolves the painting of a lightener (usually powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.
The lightener is applied with an applicator brush or a tail comb from scalp to ends around the head.
Some examples of technique for baliage are single-, dual-, and three-point application.
After lightener is applied, cotton is placed under the strand and plastic wrap is placed around the section. Hair is then processed according to manufacturer’s instructions to desired lightness.
The finished effects are extremely subtle and are used to draw attention to the surface of the hair. 78

79. Toning Highlighted and Dimensionally Colored Hair
Decolorize to desired level.
Consider porosity and pigmentation differences from strand to strand.
Avoid affecting untreated hair.
Use nonoxidative toner.
Use traditional semipermanent color.
Use no-lift, deposit-only demipermanent color that will not cause additional lightening.
TONING HIGHLIGHTED AND DIMENSIONALLY COLORED HAIR
Perform a strand test to ensure best results.
Decolorize to the desired level.
Use of a toner may not be necessary. If a cool tonality is desired, a toner will be required to cancel out undesirable yellow contributing pigment.
Consider porosity and the difference in pigmentation from strand to strand.
It is important to consider the varying degrees of pigmentation.
Avoid affecting untreated hair by:
Using a nonoxidative toner the scalp and hair.
This type of color produces no lift and is gentle on containing no ammonia.
Using traditional semipermanent color to deposit color without lift.
Using demipermanent haircolor. It will not cause additional lightening and lasts longer than temporary or traditional semipermanent colors.
It is no-lift, deposit-only color that will not cause haircolor. 79

80. LESSON ACTIVITY 7
Ask students to cut out photos from magazines and newspapers of people whose style could benefit from highlighting. Ask them also to identify the technique and procedure they would use and why. 80

81. Highlighting Shampoos
Used when slight change in color is desired
Used when hair processes rapidly
Used to highlight natural color in a single application
Patch test required
HIGHLIGHTING SHAMPOOS
Prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo
Because highlighting shampoos are made with permanent haircolor, aniline is still present in small amounts. Therefore, a patch test is required. 81

82. Special Challenges in Haircolor and Corrective Solutions
Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges.
UNDERSTAND SPECIAL CHALLENGES IN HAIRCOLOR AND CORRECTIVE SOLUTIONS
Each haircoloring service is unique and can present unique challenges.
To give each haircoloring service a good start, the colorist must allow enough time for a complete client consultation and analysis of the client’s hair.
Strand tests must be performed to ensure satisfactory final results.
Gray Hair: Challenges and Solutions
Gray hair is caused by the reduction of pigment in the cortical layer. Gray, white, and salt-and-pepper hair all have characteristics that present unique coloring challenges. 82

83. Yellowed Hair Smoking Medication Sun exposure Some styling aids 83
A problem that can occur with gray hair is that is can develop a yellow cast. This can be caused by:
Smoking
Medication
Sun exposure
Some styling aids 83

84. Formulating for Gray Hair
Level 8 or lighter may not give complete coverage.
Level 7 or darker can be used to create pastel and blond tones.
For 80 to 100 percent natural gray, blond is more flattering than darker tones.
When coloring salt-and-pepper to darker, color on color will make darker shade.
FORMULATING FOR GRAY HAIR
Level 8 or lighter may not give complete coverage of gray. May not give complete coverage because of the low concentration of dye found in lighter colors.
Level 7 and darker can be used to create pastel and blond tones. Will provide better coverage.
For those clients who are 80 to 100 percent gray, haircolor within the blond range is generally more flattering than a darker shade. This lighter level of artificial color may be selected to give a warm or cool finished color, depending on the client’s skin tone, eye color, and personal preference.
When coloring salt-and-pepper hair remember color on color will always make a darker color.
Use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair.
(continues) 84

85. Formulating for Gray Hair (continued)85

86. Other Considerations When Formulating for Gray Hair
Client personality
Personal preferences
Amount and location of gray hair
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS WHEN FORMULATING FOR GRAY HAIR 
Client personality
Personal preferences
Amount of gray hair and its location on the head 86

87. Tips for Achieving Gray Coverage
Use 20 volume developer.
Process color for full 45 minutes.
Add neutral to formula.
If 25 percent gray, use 25 percent neutral.
If 50 percent gray, use 50 percent neutral.
If 75 percent gray, use 75 percent neutral.
TIPS FOR ACHIEVING GRAY COVERAGE
Formulate at a level 7 medium blond and deeper for best gray coverage.
Use 20-volume developer.
Process color for the full processing time, based on manufacturer’s instructions.
Add neutral tones to the formula.
If 25 percent gray is present, use 25 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.
If 50 percent gray is present, use 50 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.
If 75 percent gray is present, use 75 percent neutral or natural tones in formula. 87

88. Pre-Softening Apply pre-softener to resistant area.
Process 15 minutes.
Refer to manufacturer’s directions.
Blot pre-softener off with towel.
Apply final color formula.
Process according to instructions.
PRE-SOFTENING
The process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. Pre-softening raises the cuticle layer of the resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color. A pre-softener acts like a stain to the hair.
Apply to resistant areas.
Process for 15 minutes.
Refer to the manufacturer's instructions.
Blot pre-softener off with a towel.
Apply final color formula.
Process according to the instructions. 88

89. Rules for Effective Color Correction
Do not panic.
Determine true problem.
Determine cause of problem.
Develop a solution.
Take one step at a time.
Never guarantee results.
Always strand-test for accuracy.
RULES FOR EFFECTIVE COLOR CORRECTION
Sometimes the color may not turn out as expected. Problems can be corrected. Keep this following guidelines in mind:
Do not panic.
Determine true problem.
Determine cause of problem.
Develop a solution.
Take one step at a time.
Never guarantee results.
Always strand-test for accuracy. 89

90. Damaged Hair Characteristics Rough texture Overporous condition
Brittle and dry to touch
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Spongy and matted when wet
Color fading or absorbing too rapidly
DAMAGED HAIR
Characteristics
Blow drying, flat irons, wind, harsh shampoos, the sun, salt water, chlorinated water, and chemical services all take their toll on the condition of the hair. Coating compounds such as hair sprays, styling agents, and some conditioners can block/interfere with color penetration.
Rough texture
Overporous condition
Brittle and dry to the touch
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Becomes spongy and matted when wet
Color fades too quickly or grabs too dark 90

91. Damaged Hair Treatments
Use penetrating conditioner.
Normalize pH with finishing rinse.
Postpone further chemical services.
Perform between-service conditioning.
Recommend retail products for home maintenance.
DAMAGED HAIR TREATMENTS
Use a penetrating conditioner that can deposit protein, oils, and moisture-rich ingredients.
Complete each chemical service by normalizing the pH with an acidic finishing rinse.
Postpone any further chemical service until the hair is reconditioned.
Schedule the client for between-service conditioning.
Recommend retail home-care products that will help prepare the hair for the next service. 91

92. Fillers
Conditioner fillers – used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair
Color fillers – used to equalize porosity and deposit color in one application
FILLERS
Fillers are used to equalize porosity. Some fillers are ready to use as they come from the manufacturer. Others are a mixture of haircolor and conditioner that your instructor can help you prepare.
Conditioner fillers: Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and from scalp to ends. They can be applied in a separate procedure or immediately prior to the color application.
Color fillers: Used to equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair. Color fillers are used on overly porous, pre-lightened hair to equalize porosity and provide a uniform contributing pigment that compliments the desired finished color. Demipermanent haircolor products are commonly used as color fillers. 92

93. Color Fillers Deposit color to faded ends. Help hair hold color.
Prevent streaking and dull appearance.
Prevent off-color results.
Produce more uniform color.
Produce more uniform color when coloring hair back to its natural color.
COLOR FILLERS
As a general rule, if you are going three levels or more darker, you will need to use a color filler. 93

94. Selecting Correct Color Filler
Select to replace missing primary color.
Apply directly to hair or mix with haircolor and apply to damaged ends.
SELECTING CORRECT COLOR FILLER
To correct an unwanted haircolor, always use the primary or secondary color that is missing in the hair.
All three primary colors must be present to produce a haircolor that looks natural.
Color fillers may be applied directly from their containers to damaged hair prior to coloring.
They may also be added to the haircolor and applied to damaged ends. 94

95. Haircolor Tips for Redheads
Use red-orange base to create warm, coppery reds.
Use red-violet for hot, fiery reds.
Use no-lift, deposit-only color to refresh.
If gray is present, add ½ to 1 oz of a natural color.
Refresh with a soap cap to brighten color.
HAIRCOLOR TIPS FOR REDHEADS
Fading is common with color-treated red hair.
Create warm coppery reds by using a red-orange base color (RO, RG).
Create hot fiery reds by using a red-violet or true red color (R, RR, RV).
After permanent color, use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh.
If gray is present.
If 25 percent gray is present, use 25 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.
If 50 percent gray is present, use 50 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.
If 75 percent gray is present, use 75 percent neutral or natural tones in formula.
Refresh reds with a soap cap to brighten haircolor. A soap cap is equal parts of shampoo and the remaining color formula. 95

96. Haircolor Tips for Brunettes
Use cool blue base to avoid brassy tones.
Do not lighten more than two levels above natural color to avoid brassy tones.
Add 1 oz of natural color to cover gray.
Natural highlights should be deep or caramel colored.
HAIRCOLOR TIPS FOR BRUNETTES
To avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, always use a cool blue or green base.
To avoid unwanted brassy tones, do not lighten more than two levels above the natural color.
Add one ounce of a natural color to cover gray in brunette hair.
Natural highlights in brunette hair should be deep or caramel-colored. 96

97. Haircolor Tips for Blonds
Watch out for underlying, unwanted warm tones when lightening from brown to blond.
Use level 7 or darker to cover gray.
Get light pale blond by double-processing.
If using high-lift blonds to only 5 levels, results may be warm or brassy.
If highlights become too blond, add lowlights for more natural color.
HAIRCOLOR TIPS FOR BLONDS
When lightening brown hair to blond, remember that there may be underlying unwanted warm tones.
When covering gray hair with a blond color, use a level 7 or darker for the best coverage.
Double-process blonding is the best way to obtain pale blond results.
If high-lift blonds that lift only five levels are used on levels 4 and below, the result may be a color that is too warm or brassy.
If highlights become too blond or all one color, lowlights or deeper strands can be foiled into the hair to create a more natural color. For lowlights, choose a shade between the highlighted shade and the base color and add gold to your formulation. 97

98. Common Haircolor Solutions
Refresh faded color – apply a demipermanent haircolor within two levels of formula and process for up to 10 minutes.
Green cast – remove buildup and use color to neutralize unwanted color.
Overall color is too light – apply a no-lift, deposit-only color that is one to two levels darker.
Overall color is too dark – apply a haircolor remover for 10 minutes and check.
COMMON HAIRCOLOR SOLUTIONS
Refresh faded color: If the hair appears dull and faded, mix a demipermanent haircolor in the same tonal family as the haircolor formula. Stay within two levels of your formula. Apply all over and check frequently allowing a processing time up to 10 minutes.
Green cast: If the hair has a buildup of minerals from well water or chlorine, you may want to purify the hair with a product designed to remove the mineral buildup. You can apply a demipermanent color to neutralize any unwanted color that remains in the hair.
Overall haircolor is too light: This is a result of incorrect formulation. To correct, apply a demipermanent color that is one to two levels darker than the previous formula.
Overall color is too dark: A simple solution is to add a few highlights. Or, you may need to correct the base color. Determine how much of the color needs to be removed. Use a haircolor remover in cases where the hair is too dark because of buildup or formulation.
Apply haircolor remover to the areas that need to be lightened. Process for 10 minutes and check development. These removers are designed to remove artificial pigment from the hair. Once you have achieved the desired color, rinse and shampoo. 98

99. Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor
If level 6, soften new growth with level 6 violet base and 20 volume developer. Process 20 minutes.
If level 7, soften new growth with level 8 light blond-violet base and 20 volume developer. Process 20 minutes.
RESTORING BLOND TO NATURAL HAIRCOLOR  
Level 6 or deeper
If you have a starting regrowth level that is level 6 dark blond and deeper, soften the new growth with a level 6 violet base permanent color with 20 volume. Apply to the scalp area, process for 20 minutes, and rinse. Towel dry.
If level 7 and lighter
If the starting regrowth level is level 7 medium blond and lighter, soften the regrowth with a level 8 light blond-violet base permanent color with 20 volume. Apply to the scalp area, process for 20 minutes, and rinse. Towel dry.
(continues) 99

100. Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor (continued)
Apply no-lift, deposit-only glaze with 1 oz level 8 light neutral blond and 1 oz level 9 very light blond red- orange base. Process process 20 minutes.
Do not apply to new growth.
Mix a no-lift, deposit-only glaze with 1½ oz level 6 dark neutral blond and ½ oz level 4 light brown gold base.
RESTORING BLOND TO NATURAL HAIRCOLOR (continued)
Apply a demipermanent glaze.
Next, apply a demipermanent glaze with 1 ounce of a level 8 light neutral blond and 1 ounce of a level 9 very light blond red-orange. Apply to all the lightened hair. Do not apply to the scalp area. Process for 20 minutes. Rinse and towel dry. This will turn the hair a very light reddish-gold.
Mix final deposit-only glaze
Finally, mix the final deposit-only glaze. If you formulated with level 6 dark blond-violet at the base, use 1½ ounces level 6 dark neutral blond with ½ ounce level 4 light brown gold base.
(continues)
100

101. Restoring Blond to Natural Haircolor (continued)
If level 8 light violet blond at base, use 1½ oz level 8 light neutral blond with ½ oz level 6 dark golden blond.
Apply chosen formula, starting where most overlightened.
Work color through all hair.
Process up to 20 minutes, checking every 5 minutes, and then reevaluate.
RESTORING BLOND TO NATURAL HAIRCOLOR (continued)
If you formulated with level 8 light violet blond at the base, use 1½ ounces level 8 light neutral blond with ½ ounce level 6 dark golden blond.
Apply the chosen formula starting on the pieces that were overlightened from the beginning.
Work the color through all over.
Process up to 20 minutes, checking it every five minutes.
101

102. Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions
Administer patch test.
Do not apply if abrasions are present.
Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
Do not brush hair prior to service.
Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.
KNOW HkAIRCOLORING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Administer patch test.
Do not apply if abrasions are present.
Do not apply if metallic or compound tint is present.
Do not brush hair prior to service.
Read and follow all manufacturer’s directions.
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102

103. Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions (continued)
Use disinfected applicators and tools.
Drape properly.
Perform strand test.
Use glass or plastic bowl or plastic bottle.
Do not mix haircolor until you are ready to use it.
Wear protective gloves.
KNOW HAIRCOLORING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued)
Use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels.
Protect your client's clothing with proper draping.
Perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration.
Use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the haircolor.
Do not mix haircolor until you are ready to use it; discard leftover haircolor.
Wear gloves to protect your hands.
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103

104. Know Haircoloring Safety Precautions (continued)
Do not let color get in eyes.
Do not overlap product during retouch.
Use mild, acid-balanced shampoo.
Always wash hands before and after serving each client.
© Subbotina Anna/Shutterstock.com
KNOW HAIRCOLORING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS (continued)
Do not permit the color to come in contact with the client's eyes.
Do not overlap during a haircolor retouch.
Use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip color.
Always wash hands before and after serving a client.
104

105. Summary and Review
Haircoloring offers you the opportunity to exercise your creative talents and bring great pleasure to your clients.
Enjoy your work, but most of all, enjoy and appreciate learning now and in the future. Haircolor techniques, fashions, and formulations are constantly changing.
Professionals who specialize in haircolor must constantly learn new techniques to keep up with those changes.
SUMMARY AND REVIEW
Haircoloring offers you the opportunity to exercise your creative talents and bring great pleasure to your clients.
Enjoy your work, but most of all, enjoy and appreciate learning now and in the future. Haircolor techniques, fashions, and formulations are constantly changing.
Professionals who specialize in haircolor must constantly learn new techniques to keep up with those changes.
105

106. Chapter Review Questions
Why do people color their hair?
How does the hair’s porosity affect haircolor?
How many types of melanin are found in hair? Describe each.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS
1. Why do people color their hair?
Answer: People color their hair to: cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair; enhance an existing haircolor; create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression; Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure, such as sun or chlorine; Accentuate a particular haircut.
2. How does the hair’s porosity affect haircolor?
Answer: Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, and can result in a cooler tone than less porous hair. Hair with low porosity has a cuticle that is tight. This hair is resistant, which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time for a haircolor procedure. 
3. How many types of melanin are found in hair? Describe each.
Answer: There are three types of melanin found in the hair. They are:
1. Eumelanin, the melanin that lends black and brown colors to hair.
2. Pheomelanin, the melanin that gives blond and red colors to hair.
3. Mixed melanin, a combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin.
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106

107. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
What are levels? What does the level system help you to determine when formulating haircolor? 
Name the primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
What is the role of tone and intensity in haircolor?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
4. What are levels? What does the level system help you to determine when formulating haircolor?
Answer: Levels are units of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color. Level is the saturation, density, or concentration of color. The level system helps to determine the lightness or darkness of colors. Haircolor levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest, and 10 the lightest.
5. Name the primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.
Answer: The primary colors are blue, red, and yellow. The secondary colors are green, orange, and violet. The tertiary colors are blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, and yellow-green.
6. What is the role of tone and intensity in haircolor?
Answer: The term tone, or tonality, is used to describe the warmth or coolness of a color. Intensity refers to the strength of a color tone and is described as soft, medium, or strong.
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107

108. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
What are the categories of haircolor? Briefly describe each one.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
7. What are the categories of haircolor? Briefly describe each one.
Answer: The categories of haircolor and a brief description of each are as follows:
Temporary haircolor: Makes only a physical change, not a chemical change, in the hair shaft, and no patch test is required; the pigment molecules are large and do not penetrate the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that is removed by shampooing.
Semipermanent haircolor: Formulated to last through several shampoos; the pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer but also small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing and thus fade with each shampoo; it does not lighten the hair, so there is no significant color change.
Demipermanent (deposit-only) haircolor: Similar in nature to semipermanent haircolor but longer lasting; it is formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) color; it has a smaller tint molecule and is able to penetrate the hair shaft; it is mixed with a low-volume developer (hydrogen peroxide). It is used to blend gray hair, enhance natural color, refresh faded color, tone pre-lightened hair, and is used in color correction.
Permanent haircolor is designed to lighten and deposit color at the same time. The color is mixed with a developer called hydrogen peroxide which traps the dye molecules in the hair. Permanent colors can match, lighten, deepen, or cover gray hair.
(continues)
108

109. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
How does hydrogen peroxide developer work in a haircolor formula?
What are the five key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor? 
Why is a patch test useful in haircoloring?
What is a preliminary strand test and why it is used?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
8. How does hydrogen peroxide developer work in a haircolor formula?
Answer: Hydrogen peroxide developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.
9. What are the five key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor?
Answer: The five key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor are:
1. What is the natural level, and does it include gray hair?
2. What is the level and tone of the previously colored hair?
3. What is the client’s desired level and tone?
4. Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed?
5. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result?  
10. Why is a patch test useful in haircoloring?
Answer: A patch test is used to determine whether a client has any allergies or sensitivities to the haircolor mixture.
11. What is a preliminary strand test and why it is used?
Answer: This is a test taken on a strand of hair that will tell you how the hair will react to the color you have formulated and how long it will take to process.
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109

110. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Explain the action of hair lighteners.
What is the procedure for a virgin single-process color service? 
What are the two processes involved in double- process haircoloring?
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
12. Explain the action of hair lighteners.
Answer: Hair lighteners are used to create a light blond shade that is not achievable with permanent haircolor, lighten the hair prior to application of a final color, lighten hair to a particular shade, brighten and lighten an existing shade, lighten only certain parts of the hair, and lighten dark natural or color-treated levels.
13. What is the procedure for a virgin single-process color service?
Answer: Single-process haircoloring is a process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application. A patch test is done prior to the service. The color is applied first where the hair is most resistant. It is applied to the mid-shaft, ½ inch (1.25 cm) from the scalp, not including the ends. Color development is checked with a strand test. Then color is applied to the scalp area and pulled through the ends. The hair is rinsed, then shampooed, and styled.
14. What are the two processes involved in double-process haircoloring?
Answer: The hair is first pre-lightened, and then a toner or deposit-only color is applied.
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110

111. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
Name and describe the various forms of hair lightener.
What is the purpose of toner? When is it used? 
What are the three most commonly used methods for highlighting? Describe each.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
15. Name and describe the various forms of hair lightener.
Answer: Oil, cream, and powder. Oil and cream lighteners (and some powders) are considered-on-the-scalp lighteners, which can be used directly on the scalp. Most powder lighteners are referred to as off-the-scalp lighteners, which cannot be used directly on the scalp.
16. What is the purpose of toner? When is it used?
Answer: Toners are haircoloring products used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors. 
17. What are the three most commonly used methods for highlighting? Describe each.
Answer: The methods are cap, foil, and baliage, or free-form technique.
The cap technique involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, then lightening and/or toning those strands.
The foil technique involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections of hair, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or color, and sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap.
The baliage, or free-form, technique involves the painting of a lightener (usually powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.
(continues)
111

112. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
List seven tips for achieving gray coverage.
List the rules of color correction.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
18. List seven tips for achieving gray coverage.
Answer: Seven tips for achieving gray coverage are:
Formulate at a level 7 medium blond and deeper for the best gray coverage; use 20-volume developer. Process color for a full 45 minutes; add a neutral base color to the formula; if 25 percent gray is present, use 25 percent neutral base color or natural in the formula; if 50 percent gray is present, use 50 percent neutral base color or natural in the formula; and if 75 percent gray is present, use 75 percent neutral base color or natural in the formula.
19. List the rules of color correction.
Answer: The rues of color correction are:
Do not panic.
Remain calm.
Determine the nature of the problem.
Determine what caused the problem.
Develop a solution.
Always take one step at a time.
Never guarantee an exact result.
Always strand test for accuracy.
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112

113. Chapter Review Questions (continued)
List five safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.
CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued)
20. List five safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.
Answer: Conduct a patch test 24 hours prior to any application of aniline derivative. Apply a tint only if the patch test is negative; do not apply a tint if abrasions are present; do not apply a tint if a metallic or compound tint is present; do not brush the hair prior to applying color; always read and follow all of the manufacturer’s directions; use cleaned and disinfected applicator bottles, brushes, combs, and towels; protect your client’s clothing with proper draping; perform a strand test for color, breakage, and/or discoloration; use an applicator bottle or bowl (glass or plastic) for mixing the tint; do not mix the tint before you are ready to use it; discard leftover tint; wear gloves to protect your hands; do not permit the color to come in contact with the client’s eyes; do not overlap during a tint retouch; use a mild shampoo. An alkaline or harsh shampoo will strip the color; always wash hands before and after serving a client.
113