2. Chapter 24
Sewing Equipment

3. Learning Target
describe the sewing equipment needed for sewing.

4. Shears
Shears are used to cut pattern pieces from fabric; blades are 7 to 8 inches long
Bent-handled shears allow fabric to lie flat as it is cut, giving more accurate cutting
Use on fabric only, not on string or paper
Marc Dietrich/Shutterstock.com

5. Scissors
Scissors are used to clip around curves, trim seams, and clip threads
Blades are different widths, but about 4 to 6 inches long
Serg64/Shutterstock.com

6. Rotary Cutter
A rotary cutter is good for cutting straight lines, especially those for quilt pieces
It has a round blade and looks like a pizza cutter

7. Pinking or Scalloping Shears
Use pinking or scalloping shears for giving seam edges a finished look
Also use to achieve a decorative look on nonwoven fabrics
Do not use to cut garment pieces from fabric
Frances L Fruit/Shutterstock.com

8. Thread Clipper and Seam Ripper
Use a thread clipper to clip threads at the start and end of every stitching line; or use it as a seam ripper
Use a seam ripper to remove stitches

9. Tape Measure
A tape measure is 60 inches long and used for taking body measurements
nito/Shutterstock.com

10. Skirt Marker, Yardstick, and Ruler
A skirt marker is used for measuring and marking hemlines on garments using either pins or chalk
A yardstick is useful for marking hems and for lining up pattern pieces on the fabric grain
A 12-inch, clear plastic ruler is useful for marking buttonholes, pleats, and tucks

11. Sewing Gauge and Hem Gauge
Use a sewing gauge (or seam gauge) to measure short distances, such as hems, seam widths, cuffs, and space between buttons
A hem gauge can also be used for measuring hems

12. Marking Tools
Marking tools are useful for transferring pattern markings to fabric
Markings are used to put pattern pieces together
MichaelJayBerlin/Shutterstock.com

13. Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper and Tracing Wheel
Dressmaker’s carbon paper and tracing wheel are used to transfer markings
A package includes several colors of a special waxed paper
Place the colored side of paper on wrong side of fabric; roll wheel while applying pressure
Choose a color close to fabric color

14. Fabric Marking Pens
Fabric marking pens contain disappearing ink used to mark on either the right or wrong side of fabric
Two types of pens:
water-soluble pens contain blue ink that disappears when treated with water
evaporating pens contain purple ink that evaporates in under 48 hours

15. Tailor’s Chalk
Tailor’s chalk is a clay chalk that comes in red, white, and blue
Available as a small square or as a pencil
Chalk marks can be brushed away when no longer needed

16. Needles There are many sizes and types of hand-sewing needles
Sizes for coarse needles, used for heavy fabrics, are low numbers
Sizes for fine needles, used for delicate fabrics, are high numbers
A size 1 needle is larger than a size 12 needle

17. Think About It What size needle is used for most hand-sewing tasks?
Artography/Shutterstock.com

18. Hand-Sewing Needles
Sharps are most often used; average in length with a small eye
Betweens are useful for fine stitches; very short with a small eye
Crewel or embroidery needles are used for crewel and embroidery projects and hand sewing; have larger eye

19. Sewing-Machine Needles
Sewing-machine needles come in a range of sizes from 9 to 18
Lower numbers are finer needles; higher numbers are coarser needles
Fabric weight and size or type of thread determines needle size; use sizes 9 or 11 for fine fabrics and sizes 16 or 18 for heavier fabrics
continued

20. Sewing-Machine Needles
Ballpoint needles are used for knits and stretch fabrics; rounded tip allows needle to slip between yarns
Sharp needles are used for woven fabrics; tip pierces heavyweight, densely woven fabrics
Universal needles are an all-purpose needle

21. Pins
Straight pins attach pattern pieces to fabric and pin garment pieces together before sewing
Types of pins are
dressmaker’s pins
silk pins
ballpoint pins
ball-headed pins
AlenKadr/Shutterstock.com

22. Pincushions and Thimbles
Pincushions make it easier to pick up pins and replace them; also keep pins from falling into the sewing machine
When hand-sewing thick layers or tightly woven fabrics, a thimble can protect your fingers; should fit the middle finger of your sewing hand

23. Learning Target
describe the various types of notions that may be needed for sewing a garment or project.

24. Notions
Notions are nonfabric items that become part of a garment or project
Pattern envelopes list notions
A garment and its notions should have the same care requirements
© JohnKwan/Shutterstock

25. Thread Thread comes in a wide variety of colors
If using solid-colored fabric, select thread that is slightly darker
If using a print or a plaid fabric, try to select thread that matches the background color in the fabric
Choosing the right fiber content of thread is just as important as choosing the color

26. Think About It
When using solid-colored fabric, why should you select thread that is slightly darker than the fabric?
suthiwat/Shutterstock.com

27. Polyester/Cotton Thread
All-purpose
Strong
Stretchable
Minimal shrinkage
Often used with knit and stretch fabrics

28. Polyester Thread All-purpose Strong Abrasion resistant
Can stretch and recover

29. Mercerized Cotton Thread
Smooth and lustrous
Limited stretch
Used on woven fabrics made of natural fibers

30. Fasteners
Fasteners include zippers, buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps, and hook-and-loop tape
Garsya/Shutterstock.com

31. Zippers
All-purpose zippers are used most often; open from the top only
Separating zippers can come apart at the bottom; used on jackets and parkas
Invisible zippers look like seams from the right side of the garment; stitching is not visible
continued

32. Zippers
Two-way zippers have sliders at the top and bottom; open at either end
Trouser zippers have wider tapes and teeth than other zippers

33. Buttons Buttons can be decorative or functional
A button’s size is its diameter
Sew-through buttons have two to four holes in them; thread is stitched through the holes
Shank buttons have a loop underneath the button; thread is stitched through the loop

34. Think About It What type of button—sew-through or shank—is shown here?
Africa Studio/Shutterstock.com

35. Hooks, Eyes, and Snaps
Regular hooks and eyes have curved or straight eyes
Curved eyes are used on edges that just meet, such as the edge of a collar
Straight eyes are used when edges overlap, such as on a waistband
Trouser hooks and eyes are wider and flatter
continued

36. Hooks, Eyes, and Snaps Snaps also come in many sizes
Smaller snaps are used in areas with little strain
Hooks and eyes and snaps usually come in black and silver

37. Hook-and-Loop Tape
Hook-and-loop tape is made up of two pieces of nylon:
one piece with tiny nylon loops
the other piece with a fuzzy surface
When the two pieces are pressed together, they stick to each other

38. Think About It What is a common brand of hook-and-loop tape?
Stocksnapper/Shutterstock.com

39. Tapes and Trims
Tapes and trims are available in a variety of types, widths, and colors, and can be functional or decorative
continued
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40. Tapes and Trims
Seam tape is a woven tape used to finish hem and facing edges
Twill tape is a firm tape used to reinforce seams
Hem facing is a wide type of bias tape used for hems
continued

41. Tapes and Trims
Bias tape is a single-fold or double-fold tape that stretches; use it to bind curved or straight edges or for casings and ties
Piping is a corded bias strip that can be inserted into a seam for a decorative effect

42. Elastics Elastic gives garments a better fit
Elastic is available in different widths and types
Woven elastic stays the same width when stretched; it is used in casings or stitched directly to a garment
continued

43. Elastics
Braided elastic narrows when stretched; it is only used in casings
Knitted elastic is soft, lightweight, and resists curling when stretched
Khvost/Shutterstock.com

44. Interfacing
Interfacings are either sewn into a garment or fused on with a fusible backing
Gives shape to collars, cuffs, waistbands, and pockets; add strength to necklines, buttonholes, and front closings
Choose interfacing the same weight or a little lighter weight than your fabric
There are woven and nonwoven types

45. Pressing Equipment Press with an iron as you sew
A steam iron produces moisture that shapes the garment
continued
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46. Pressing Equipment
Use a dry iron with a damp press cloth; cover the fabric with the cloth to supply steam and prevent iron shine and possible water drops on fabric
Press small details with a sleeve board
Press open seams with a seam roll
Press curved seams and darts with a pressing ham

47. Learning Target
identify the parts and functions of the parts of a sewing machine.

48. The Sewing Machine Elias Howe patented his sewing machine in 1846
Many of today’s machines use computer technology
Olena Zaskochenko/Shutterstock.com

49. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Different models and brands of sewing machines often have different features
Having some knowledge of a sewing machine’s parts is useful
The main parts of most sewing machines are listed in the following slides
continued

50. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Function
Hand wheel (also called the balance wheel)
Controls movement of take-up lever and needle; moves needle up and down
Bobbin winder
Guides thread when filling bobbin with thread
Spool pin
Holds spool of thread
continued

51. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Function
Presser foot pressure adjustment
Controls amount of pressure of presser foot against feed system
Stitch width dial
Controls zigzag stitch width and positions needle for straight stitching
Thread guides
Lead thread to the needle
continued

52. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Function
Bobbin winder tension disc
Regulates thread tension for bobbin winding
Take-up lever
Controls flow of needle thread
Face plate
Swings open for access to movable parts and light on some machines
continued

53. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Function
Thread tension dial
Sets the tension
Presser foot
Holds fabric against feed system teeth
Feed dog
Moves fabric under the presser foot
Needle plate
Displays guidelines for sewing
Needle clamp
Holds needle in place
continued

54. Parts of the Sewing Machine
Function
Stitch length dial
Regulates stitch length; stretch stitching
Reverse lever
Activates backward stitching
Presser foot lifter
Raises and lowers presser foot
Thread cutter
Cuts thread
Bobbin cover plate
Covers bobbin and bobbin case

55. Learning Target
recognize minor sewing-machine problems that might occur and solve them.

56. Using the Sewing Machine
Sewing machines operate with two threads
needle thread
bobbin thread
Kuznetsov Dmitriy/Shutterstock.com

57. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Loud noise as you start to sew and matted threads in seam line
Machine threaded wrong
Thread machine again
continued

58. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Lower thread breaks
• Lower tension too tight
• Knot in bobbin thread
• Adjust tension screw
• Check thread
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59. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
3. Puckered seam line
• Tension too tight
• Thread too heavy or light
• Pulling on fabric
• Tail ends of threads caught in presser foot
• Sew on different weight fabric
• Make sure threads are under presser foot and to back when starting
continued

60. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Machine locks, needle will go up and down
• Thread caught in bobbin
• Turn hand wheel backward to release thread
continued

61. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
5. Skipped stitches
• Needle bent, blunt, too long or short
• Needle threaded wrong
• Check needle
• Thread needle again
• May need a stretch needle
continued

62. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Looped stitches, top line, bottom line
• Top tension adjusted wrong
• Bottom tension adjusted wrong
• Thread not fully in tension dial
• Check tension
continued

63. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
7. Needle picks or pulls thread in line of stitching
• Point of needle bent when it hit a pin
• Insert new needle
continued

64. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Needle breaks
• Presser foot loose and needle hit it
• Pulling fabric while stitching
• Tighten presser foot, do not pull fabric
continued

65. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
9. Machine runs “hard”
• Needs cleaning and oiling
• Clean and oil according to instruction booklet
continued

66. Minor Problems and Cures
Cause
Cure
Machine will not run at all
• Machine may be unplugged, cord or outlet may be defective
• Check to see if plugged in tightly
• Check another outlet to see if cord is okay

67. Sewing-Machine Safety
Be sure needle is not bent or damaged
Wear shoes
Plug power cord into machine and wall outlet
Tie back long hair
Avoid loose-fitting clothing or jewelry
Keep fingers at least 1 inch from needle and presser foot
Do not sew over pins or put them in mouth
Keep your eyes on your sewing at all times

68. Learning Target
summarize how to care for a sewing machine.

69. Caring for the Sewing Machine
Check the manual that comes with a machine for care and maintenance information
Unplug the sewing machine before cleaning it
Regularly remove lint and fluff from exposed parts using a soft cloth
With a small lint brush, clean behind the face plate and around the feed dog and bobbin case

70. Review
Explain the differences between shears and scissors and their uses.
Shears are longer with handles shaped to fit hand; use shears to cut pattern pieces from fabric and use scissors to clip around curves, trim seams, and clip threads
What size and type of needle is most often used for hand sewing?
sharp, size 7 or 8
continued

71. Review What type of machine needle is best for use with knits and why?
ballpoint needle; rounded tip allows needle to slip between yarns
What are the advantages of sewing with a polyester/cotton thread?
It is strong, is stretchable, and has minimum shrinkage
continued

72. Review What type of zipper would you use for a jacket and why?
separating zipper because it can come apart at the bottom
In what places is interfacing used in a garment?
under the outer fabric; necklines, buttonholes, and front closings; collars, cuffs, waistbands, and pockets
continued

73. Review
What piece of pressing equipment is used for curved seams and darts?
pressing ham
What two parts of the sewing machine work together to move the fabric forward?
presser foot and feed dog