2. Part 3: Designing and Producing Apparel
Chapter 9
The Fashion Design Segment

3. Objectives Explain the price market categories of apparel
Define designer collection showings
Describe how designers capitalize on their name recognition
Summarize the designing process for fashions
Identify the world’s fashion centers and their specialties
Recognize some influential fashion design names and labels
Cite U.S. fashion associations and awards

4. Price Market Categories of Apparel (Women's)
Designer
High-priced couture, custom-made
Bridge
Highest-priced ready-to-wear
Better
High quality, reasonably priced
Moderate
Well-known brands, medium priced
Budget
Knockoffs, lowest priced

5. Collection Showings Collection Line Designer ready-to-wear (RTW)
A designer’s or manufacturer’s seasonal presentation
Exclusive garments
Line
Group of styles and designs sold as a set within a seasonal collection
Designer ready-to-wear (RTW)
Shown at trade shows for retail buyers and press

6. Name Recognition Designer name gives a perceived difference
Consumers believe the items are of higher quality
Designer or brand instantly recognized
Logo, signature, or initial
Couture collections may lose money, but designers gain public recognition

7. Fashion Designer Terms
Licensing
Legal arrangement granting manufacturer rights to produce items bearing designer’s label
Celebrity licensing
Character licensing
Franchising
Designer grants retailer right to use name and sell trademarked goods
Secondary Lines
Replaced custom-made couture lines
Designer RTW (bridge) lines sold in limited numbers/locations
House Boutiques
Small retail shops owned by designers
Merchandise designed by owner/designer

8. The Design Timeline 4-5 years ahead of retail selling 2-3 years ahead
New fiber variants
2-3 years ahead
Color projections and fabric development
18 months ahead
Trend projections
12 months ahead
Fabric manufacturing

9. Timeline for Apparel to Reach Consumers
1 year before:
RTW designers work on their company’s fashion line
6 months before:
Line shown to retailers at trade shows
2-4 months before:
Orders are manufactured
Apparel arrives in stores for sale to consumers

10. Inspiration and Technology
Sources for inspiration:
Forecasting services
Past fashions
Art, theatre, movies, news, trendsetters
Technology use:
Computer aided design (CAD)
Telecommunications
Electronic graphics and 3-D imaging

11. Domestic Fashion Centers
New York—latest fashions
Los Angeles—sportswear, “Hollywood” evening wear
Dallas—dresses, moderately priced lines, southwestern
Nevada—accessories
Miami—cruise, kids
Chicago—serves larger chains
Atlanta—home furnishings, giftware, and decorative arts
United States

12. European Design Centers
France—Haute couture, Chambre Syndicale de la couture; caution paid at couture houses to deter free copying
Italy—Alta moda in Rome; Milan has high quality RTW; leather
Great Britain—“Savile Row” custom menswear; men’s tailored, rainwear; “punk”
Germany—produces well-made, conservatively styled RTW
Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland—furs, leathers, sweaters, knitwear
Spain—leather, suede
Europe

13. Canadian Fashion Centers
Toronto apparel center
Canada contributes to the outerwear and fur fashion markets
Continuing to grow
Canada

14. Central and South American Centers
Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, and Bogotá are emerging fashion cities
Provide cheaper sources of supply for U.S. retail markets
Cotton, wool, leather, and ethnic crafts

15. Asian Fashion Centers Asia Japan China and Hong Kong Taiwan
Produce goods quickly
China and Hong Kong
Low-wage contract manufacturing for U.S. and Europe
The “sleeping giant”
Taiwan
Textile/apparel factories
South Korea
Volume-priced knits, menswear, and sportswear
Asia

16. Other World Locations India Eastern Europe/Russia Israel
Textiles and fashions of cotton and silk
Eastern Europe/Russia
Apparel producers
Continuing upgrade of machinery
Israel
Beachwear, leather goods

17. U.S. Fashion Awards and Associations
Coty Awards
1940s–1970s
Cutty Sark Awards
Through early 1980’s
Council of Fashion Designers of America
Most important now
Various independent
IACDE, VH1, MTV, Gold and Silver Thimbles
FASHION
BEST

18. Do You Know . . .
The British term for ready-to-wear is “off-the-peg.” Do you know the French term?
Designers usually create their own unique style
What, in your opinion, identifies the following designers?
Gucci
Karl Lagerfeld
Versace
Mary Quant
Bob Mackie