1. Hand Overcast Wraps over the edge of the fabric to prevent fraying.
Diagonal even stitching from L to R
Hide knots where possible
1/8 down from the raw edge and 1/4 “ stitch distance.
Start w/ a tailor’s knot and end w/ anchor’s knot.
Single thread

2. Hand Sewing You’ll need - Hand sewing needle Thread
2” by 18” clear plastic ruler
Fabric Marker
Scissor / clippers
Pins
- Fabric
2 squares: 7” long, 5” wide
4 squares: 4” by 4”
2 squares: 7” by 7”
- Threads should be 18” – 24” long.
Cut thread end at an angle so that it’s easier to thread.
Begin with tailor’s knot and end with anchor’s knot
Hide tail

3. Hook and Eye
Two part hook and eye metal closure, used on waistbands, top of zippers, and other areas to close garments.
Double thread
Start w/ tailor’s knot and end w/ anchor knot
Hide knots and tail

4. Buttons w/ holes and w/shank
Use 4 threads
Start w/ tailor’s knot and end w/ anchor knot
Hide knots and tail
Buttons w/holes should have a thread shank

5. Hemming by Hand
Hem is a very important part of any garment. It can be done in many different ways depending on the style of the garment, fabric type, and location of the hem. It is used to finish the raw edge of a garment, for cleaner and professional look.
When hemming by hand there is more control.
- Hems should be almost invisible on the RS of the garment.
Hem should be uniform and evenly spaced.
Hem should be smooth and flat
Hem allowance should be appropriate width.
Hem allowance should be even all the way around.
Hem can be done flat hemming or inside hemming.
When hemming by hand there is more control especailly when hemming sheer fabrics, curved and full hems. It may take longer time to hem but the end results are very pretty and splendid.
Flat hemming is more commonly used and is mostly done on all kinds of garments. Inside hemming is done on pinked or zigzag edges, done on knit fabrics as they don’t ravel. It’s also very commonly used in tailoring.

6. Catch Stitch and Hidden/Blind Catch Stitch
Has some stretch. Crisscrossing of the threads adds strength as well. It’s used where layers of fabrics needs to shift when the garment is worn. Good for knits and used in tailoring, especially coats.
Work L to R
Begin w/ Tailor’s knot and end w/ anchor knot
Hide knots and tail
Single thread and double thread.

7. Hand Rolled Blind Hem Hand Rolled Baby Blind Hem
Clean finish the hem edge. Hemming stitches are nearly invisible on both RS and WS of the fabric.
Baby hem usually done of sheer fabrics and compliment flowing, lightweight fabrics.
- Work R to L
Single thread/double thread
Begin w/ tailor’s knot and end with anchor knot.
Hide knots and tail