1. Schedule of the day 9.00-9.30 Introduction to the day (Kirsi)
Design for recycling – material point of view (Elina)
Coffee Break
Introduction to ”the search” -workshop
Group work #1
Lunch break
Making Presentations of results (5 + 5min each)
Presentations
Introduction to second group work
Group work #2 + making the presentation (5+ 5 min)
Presentations

2. Circular economy and Design for recycling – the case: Apparels
DSc (Tech) Elina Ilén, Post Doc Researcher, Fashion Textiles Futures research group, Department of Design

4. Consumer in a center of Clothing design
Consumers have various reasons to buy garments:
They want to be protected from the weather
They want to express their culture and values
Their body size and measurements has changed
They want to be renewed
They want to be trendy
They want look and feel good
The basic right of the human also in the future??
Aim to effective and sustainable usage of recycled and recyclable materials

5. Responsible/sustainable Design, 4 e’s
Ecology -> Environmental impacts of product lifecycle
Ethics -> Values, moral and social sustainability
Economics -> Economic sustainability , wellfare, standard of living
Esthetics -> cultural sustainability, never out -of –fashion, maintain and even improve the good mood of the wearer

8. Product lifecycle AND LIFECYcLE DESIGN
Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) is a quantative method for analysing the environmental impacts of the product through its whole lifecycle or specific phases (like manufacturing, logistics)
CBF = Carbon foot print expresses CO2 – emissions of the product in its lifecycle. Co2 is the most significant greenhouse gas
LIFE CYCLE DESIGN ->
The whole lifecycle of product is designed, not only the manufacturing, use phase and disposing
As the next and next lifecycle is added (and designed), we talk about
- > CIRCULAR ECONOMY

9. ECO-design and product value chain
Description: Aiming to minimise the environmental impacts of the product life cycle
Sustainable design: the look does not go out-of-fashion (Commercial product design)
Sustainable material and production technologies and materials consumption (Technical product design)
Sustainable sourcing and logistics (Supply chain)
The use phase emissions (All factors in chain)
Product recyclability (All factors in value chain)
SO to say, it is a whole supply/value chain which affect on ecology of the product, the next phase cannot destroy the good aims of earlier phases.
The undestanding of reasons and consequences of decisions in the whole supply chain is essential
Baseline for eco-design is set by values and strategy of the company

10. Lowering of environmental impacts
The designer can decrease the environmental impacts
By identifying the emissions emitted (impacts) in every phase of lifecycle
By aiming to minimise the steps in manufacturing process and material consumption
By aiming to skip over high –impact process phases like bleaching process of textiles
By selecting less impacts manufacturing technologies like digital printing
By developing products which does not need to wash -> 75% of emissions is caused by washing of its whole lifecycle

11. Designer’s operational field
Marketing and selling
-brand
-product strategy
-distribution
-PR and communication
Designer’s operational field
Design
-idea
-visuality
-functionality
-understanding of user
Designer
Production
-Manufacturing technologies
-sourcing /product specifying
-logstics
- sustainability
-quality

12. Materials and recycling
Main features /basic principles
The monomaterial products are the most effectively and easier recyclable
Cellulose and Polyester can be separated chemically
Elastane cannot be separated chemically from the blends
The synthetic fibers can be melt and respun
Another fibers and chemicals (dyes) are always disturbing impurities in fiber/yarn reforming process
Automatic sorting of textiles blends are difficult to identify

13. Monomaterial
Monomaterial product is 100% made of one material, but it not necessary monolayer product.
It still can be multifunctional having extreme performance
All the details, trimmings, zippers and snap button s are also made with one and same material
In this case Polyester and in the future also from cellulose could be used for functional clothing

14. Design for recycling and Circular economy
The recyclability of materials forms a basis for the circular economy
The textile materials can be recycled by
Mechanically by shreding and respinning -> usually the mechanical proeprties will decrease (down cycling/grading)
Chemically by dissolving the fiber material and regenerating fiber from mocular level. Aiming to at least the same quality or renewing or adding the propertiesof the second cycle (up cycling/grading)
The raw materials and manufacturing technolgies are essential, what kind of products are sewn from it does not affect on recyclability.
This requires even more material and technological knowledge from designer
In consequences of circular economy the work of designer work in change, for example in the future the raw materials and even colors could be limited and pre- defined
Only recyclable materials can be used…?
The colors are not bleached before second cycle…?

15. Circular economy And Closed loop
Creating high-end textiles from waste via ground-breaking process (Ioncell Spinning) and material innovations
Trash-2-Cash will turn cellulose and polyester waste fibres into new materials for high quality products through an international collaboration of design, business and technology research

16. Design Drivers of Trash 2 cash
”Design for recycling” – Material Blends must be able to separate
Upcycling (not downcycling)
Material innovation -> adding the properties (functional) of the regenerated fiber
Some ideas of the concepts designed:
Blends; replacing elastane with elastic PBT
Eco-repellent treatment into fiber
Color remaing –no bleaching
Recyclable rainwear

17. The manufacturing process of Regenerated cellulose in T2C
1. Pre-consumed Cotton Textile Waste pre- treatment (Textile powder) VTT
2. Dissolving the powder and fiber melt spinning by extrusion, cutting to staple fiber (AaltoChem)
3. Yarn spinning with ring spinning (TUT, outsourced)
4. Textile knitting (Aalto Arts)

18. sustainable design -TOOls
DSc. (Tech) Elina Ilén (Textile Material Scuence) and MA Essi Karell (Clothing Design)

19. Group work #1 – the search
4 groups of 3-4 people
The topic of the search given for each group
Time 60 min for searching
30min. For preparing the presentation
5 min for presentation and 5 min. desicussion

20. Topics (4) of the search 1. Water foot print of Textile and garments;
2. Higg Index – SAC (sustainable apparel coalition);
3. LCA – Carbon Foot print - Carbon Trust;
4. Sustainable Certificates – Bluesign and Ökotex

21. Presentation of the search results
2-3 slides
The description of topic
The main points of topic
Evaluate the pros (+) and cons (-) from the designer’s perspective, useful or not ?
What is missing?

22. Group work #2: ”useful sustainable design tool”
2 groups; in one group has one specialist of each topic (the search –session)
20 min. brainstorming
10min per each group for sharing the ideas
20min End discussion

23. #2: OUTPUT of ”useful design tool” -session
What kind of tool should be? Consider cradle-to-cradle?
Which information is useful/relevant?
Responsibilities of designers / companies / consumers / other stakeholders?