1. Installing Plants in the Landscape

2. Importance of Proper installation
Healthy plants are necessary if the landscape design is to achieve the desired effect.
Proper installation is essential to the health and success of landscape plants.
Healthy plants require less maintenance once they become established.

3. Importance of Proper installation
Proper installation reduces the chances of plant loss and the need and costs for replacing lost plants.
Plants lost due to improper installation must be replaced by the landscape contractor.
This reduces or eliminates any profit made on the project.

4. Planting Trees and Shrubs
Correct planting gives trees and shrubs a good start on their growth and establishment in the landscape.

5. Planting Trees and Shrubs
Trees and shrubs are available from the nursery as:
Bare-rooted stock
Balled-and-burlapped stock
Container-grown stock
Each type of stock has unique planting needs; however, the general steps and guidelines for planting are common to all.

6. Planting Trees and Shrubs

7. General Steps in Planting Trees and Shrubs
Prepare the hole for planting.
Prepare the soil for planting.
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
Fill the hole with soil.
Construct a water basin around the plant.
Water the newly planted tree or shrub.
Place mulch around the plant.
Video

8. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Prepare the hole for planting.
Hole size depends on the type of stock being planted.
When removing soil from hole, pile topsoil and subsoil separately.

9. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Prepare the soil for planting.
If necessary add sand or organic matter to loosen and lighten the soil, and to improve its ability to retain water.
Don’t add fertilizer to soil that will be in direct contact with newly developing roots.
If necessary, add a balanced water soluble fertilizer when watering the newly planted tree or shrub.

10. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
When handling trees and shrubs during planting, pick them up by their container or root ball.

11. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Fill the hole with soil.
Begin filling with the subsoil or subsoil mixture.
This is the soil that came out of the hole last.
Gently firm the soil around the roots or root ball.
This steadies the plant in the soil and removes any air pockets.
Avoid compacting the soil too tightly.

12. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Construct a water basin around the plant.
Allows plant to catch and hold rain water.
This improves its chance of survival.
Should be constructed 2-3 inches high around the drip-line of the plant.

13. General Guidelines and Steps for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Water the newly planted tree or shrub.
Place mulch around the plant.
This helps buffer the root zone from extreme temperatures at the surface of the soil

14. Bare-Rooted Stock Common for many deciduous trees and shrubs.
Plants are dormant.
Roots aren’t actively growing.
No soil ball surrounds the roots.
Roots are packed in a moist, loose packing material such as sawdust.

15. Special Considerations for Planting Bare-Rooted Stock
Never expose the plants’ roots to sunlight.
Do not allow the roots to dry out.
If the roots dry out, soak them in water for at least an hour, but not more than 24 hours.
Heel-in plants if stock cannot be planted for several days.

16. Time to Plant Bare-Rooted Stock
Plant stock while it is still dormant.
Planting time ranges from fall through early spring.
Fall is best because it allows the plants’ roots time to become established during the winter.
It also gives plants a head-start on growth when it resumes in the spring.

17. Planting Bare-Rooted Stock
Prepare the hole for planting.
Hole should be 1½ - 2 times the size of the root spread or ball.
If the hole is dug mechanically, roughen the sides.
Failure to do this could cause roots to grow in a circling manner around the inside of the hole.
Prepare the soil for planting.

18. Planting Bare-Rooted Stock

19. Planting Bare-Rooted Stock
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
Make a cone of soil at the bottom of the hole.
If necessary, prune any roots that are dead, diseased, or damaged.
Pruning the top portion of the plant may be necessary to maintain balance between the shoot and root systems.

20. Planting Bare-Rooted Stock
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
Spread the roots to their full length over the cone of soil.
Set the plant in the hole so the soil mark is even with the surface of the surrounding soil.

21. Planting Bare-Rooted Stock
Fill the hole with soil.
Fill to within about 3 inches of the top.
Water slowly before filling completely.
Construct a water basin around the plant.
Water the newly planted tree or shrub.
Place mulch around the plant.

22. Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Both deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs are available in this manner.
A ball of undisturbed soil surrounds the roots.
The ball of soil is covered with burlap.
Plant growth and activity continues as if the plant is growing in the ground.

23. Time to Plant Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Planting is possible any time, but fall planting is best.
This allows the plants’ roots to become established during the winter, before shoot growth starts again in the spring.
If planted in early summer, the root system doesn’t have enough time to become established before the weather gets hot and dry.

24. Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Prepare the hole for planting.
Hole should be twice as wide as the root ball and about 6 inches deeper than the root ball.
Prepare the soil for planting.

25. Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
Add enough soil to the hole so the top of the root ball is even with, or slightly higher, than ground level.
Keep the material covering the root ball intact.

26. Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Set the plant in the hole and straighten it.
Cut the twine holding the material covering the root ball.
Wrapping material does not have to be removed because it will eventually decompose.
Scrape away any crust that may have formed around the outer edges of the root ball.

27. Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Fill the hole with soil.
When the hole is half full, firm the soil around the root ball.
Continue filling until the hole is full.
When filled, the top of the root ball should be even with or slightly higher than the surrounding soil.

28. Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Stock
Construct a water basin around the plant.
Water the newly planted tree or shrub.
Place mulch around the plant.

29. Container-Grown Stock
A variety of plants are available in containers.
Roots remain intact and grow in undisturbed soil or media surrounding the roots.

30. Time to Plant Container-Grown Stock
Planting is favorable throughout the entire year.
Transplant shock is less likely to occur because the plant, its roots, and growing media have been undisturbed.

31. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Prepare the hole for planting.
Hole should be twice as wide as the container and 1 to 1½ times the height of the container.
Hole should be flat- bottomed.

32. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Prepare the soil for planting.
If the soil is very dry, fill the hole with water and let it drain before proceeding.

33. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Set and straighten the plant in the hole.
Fill the hole about half full with subsoil.
Remove the plant from its container.
Don’t break soil mass apart after removal.

34. Removing Container-Grown Stock from its Container
For plants in smaller containers:
Turn the plant upside down and give the top edge of the container a sharp rap against an object.
Catch the soil mass as it slips from the container.
For plants in larger containers:
Cut out the bottom of the container.
Remove the sides of the container by making two cuts down opposite sides of the container.

35. Removing Container-Grown Stock from its Container
For plants in peat moss or paper mâché containers:
Removal from container is not necessary because container will eventually decompose in the soil.
Make several cuts down the sides of the container.
Helps the roots penetrate the walls of the container.
Prevents roots from developing container habit.
Speeds up the rate of decomposition.

36. Removing Container-Grown Stock from its Container

37. Checking Container-Grown Stock for Container Habit
After the plant has been removed from its container, check to see if the plant has become overgrown in its container or if its root system has developed container habit.
Roots may have coiled around each other inside the container.
Root system may be a tight, compact circle around the soil mass.
Some larger roots may coil back around the trunk and begin a process known as root strangulation or girdling.

38. Methods for Correcting and Preventing Girdling
Cut the outer roots
Use a sharp knife to make cuts in 2 to 4 places around the soil mass.
Cuts should be from the top to the bottom of the soil mass.
Graphic Courtesy of Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service

39. Methods for Correcting and Preventing Girdling
Split the lower half of the root system
Split the roots in the middle of the soil mass by cutting them apart, upward from the bottom.
Spread the roots horizontally.
Graphic Courtesy of Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service

40. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Set and straighten the plant in the hole.
The top of the soil mass should be slightly above the ground level.

41. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Fill the hole with soil.
If the container is biodegradable, make sure none of it is exposed above the soil surface.
The container will act as a wick, absorbing moisture from the root system and evaporating it into the air.
Construct a watering basin around the plant.

42. Planting Container-Grown Stock
Water the newly planted tree or shrub.
Place mulch around the plant.

43. Staking and Guying Trees
Necessary to support and protect newly planted trees and shrubs.
Allows plants to properly grow and obtain the desired size.
Helps steady the plant’s root system, allowing the roots to become established in the soil.

44. When Staking or Guying is Necessary
Necessary for trees larger than four feet tall.
Necessary for large shrubs exposed to frequent winds.
Not necessary for smaller trees or shrubs.

45. Single Stake Method
Drive a stake into the ground on the southwest side of the plant’s trunk or stem.
Stake should be driven at a distance of 2 to 4 inches from the center of the trunk or stem.
Stake height should be about three-fourths the height of the plant.

46. Two Stake Method
Drive two stakes firmly into the soil about one to one and a half feet beyond the trunk or stem.
Stakes should be on direct opposite sides of the plant.
Height of stakes should be about two-thirds that of the plant.

47. Guy Wire Method
Used to secure larger trees that can’t be secured by staking alone.
Drive 3 short stakes firmly into the ground.
Stakes should be driven 18 to 30 inches into the ground at a 45 degree angle away from the tree trunk.
Video

48. Planting Vines and Groundcovers
Landscape contractors purchase vines and groundcovers in one of the following three forms:
Container-Grown
Rooted Liners in Flats
Rooted Cuttings in Moist Packing Material

49. Planting Container-Grown Vines and Groundcovers
These are usually larger, mature plants.
Before installing, thoroughly water the plants.
Water well in advance, but not too far from planting time.
Adequate moisture allows easy removal of the soil mass from the container without disturbing the roots and soil mass.

50. Planting Container-Grown Vines and Groundcovers
Install plants at the same depth as they were growing in the container.
Covering the plants’ crowns may result in plant death.
Planting too shallow may also result in plant death.

51. What is a Vine?
the slender stem of a trailing or climbing plant.

52. What is a ground cover plant?
Plants that are low-growing (generally less than 24 inches) and spread easily are suitable ground cover plants.

53. Planting Vines and Groundcovers from Compressed Peat Containers
Before planting, water plants thoroughly.
Make sure no part of the container is exposed above the soil surface.
Exposed parts of the peat container will dry out the entire container by acting as a wick and pulling water out of the soil.
The dry container will restrict future root development.

54. Planting Vines and Groundcovers from Compressed Peat Containers

55. Vines and Groundcovers from Rooted Liners in Flats
Contain many plants growing very closely together.
Separation is necessary prior to planting.

56. Vines and Groundcovers as Rooted Cuttings
Shipped from distant growers in a moist packing material.
This type of packaging cuts down on shipping costs.
These plants will die quickly if allowed to dry out.

57. Planting Vines and Groundcovers from Rooted Liners and Cuttings
Roots must be protected from drying out during installation.
Remove only a few plants at a time from the flat or packing material.
Make sure roots are always covered with growing media or packing material throughout the installation process.

58. Planting Vines and Groundcovers from Rooted Liners and Cuttings
Carefully separate the plants from one another.
Gently pull or cut the root masses apart.
Install plants without burying them too deep or burying the crown.
Gently firm the soil to establish good contact between the soil and the plant’s roots.

59. Spacing of Vines and Groundcovers
Spacing depends on the growth habit of the plant and the desired rate and level of coverage.
Vines and groundcovers planted close together form a denser cover in a shorter time.
Plants set 15 to 18 inches apart may take several years to fill in solidly.

60. Spacing of Vines and Ground Covers
Plants from rooted liners and cuttings should be installed closer together than container-grown plants.
To achieve a solid ground cover in a reasonable amount of time, space cuttings about 5 to 6 inches apart.
Install plants in a staggered, grid-like pattern for greater coverage with fewer plants.

61. Watering Newly Planted Vines and Groundcovers
Water the bed immediately after planting.
This helps settle the soil around the soil mass and the roots of the plants.
This keeps plants from quickly drying out.
If planting a large area, provide water for each plant immediately after planting, or water smaller sections of the large area as soon as the section is completed.

62. Mulching Newly Planted Vines and Groundcovers
After watering, mulch the soil surrounding the plants.
This helps establish the plants.
This reduces the chance of serious erosion before the plants become established when groundcover beds are on slopes.

63. Planting Annuals
Flowering annuals add seasonal color to the landscape.
They grow and flower in only one growing season.
Re-planting is necessary in the following year.
Installed as seed or transplants.

64. Planting Time for Annuals
Spring
Plant after the dangers of frost have passed.
Late Summer and Early Fall
Plant well in advance of the first frost.

65. Planting Annuals from Seed
A well prepared seed bed is required.
Soil must be well-drained, finely worked, and free of coarse clods.
Sow seeds in rows or broadcast them over the surface of the seed bed.
Follow planting instructions on the seed packet.
Sow seed thinly to prevent overcrowding.

66. Planting Annuals from Seed
Cover the seed lightly with a thick layer of soil.
Gently water the seed bed, taking care not to splash the seed from the soil.
Allow 1 to 2 weeks for seeds to germinate.
If necessary, thin seedlings in order to prevent overcrowding.

67. Planting Annuals from Transplants
Transplants are more often used in the landscape than seed because they become established quicker.
Those in their own containers experience little or no transplant shock.
Transplants in flats also have a high survival rate.

68. Planting Annuals from Transplants
Space plants 8 to 10 inches apart.
Close spacing causes plants to grow tall and spindly.
Plant transplants at the same depth as they were previously growing.
Firm the soil around each transplant’s soil mass.
Water thoroughly after installing them in the flower bed.

69. Planting Herbaceous Perennials
Herbaceous perennials add seasonal color to the landscape.
With proper care, plants will produce foliage and flowers every year without replanting being necessary.
Plants will die back to the ground during the winter.

70. Planting Herbaceous Perennials
Available for purchase and planting in the following forms:
Perennating Structures
Perennating structures are plant structures that allow plants to store food and live during dormant periods.
Bulbs
Tubers
Rhizomes
Corms
Container Plants
Divisions of Actively Growing Plants

71. Planting Time for Herbaceous Perennials
Cold-Treated Bulbs and Corms
Late fall and early winter for flowering during late winter and early spring.
Container Plants
Any time during the year.
Plant Divisions
During the late summer and early fall.

72. Planting Herbaceous Perennials
Bed should be well-drained and fertilized.
Plant underground perennating structures 3 to 5 inches below the soil surface, according to directions.
Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the perennating structures.

73. Summary
Properly installing landscape plants is essential to their future health.
Proper installation reduces the chance of needing to replace the plants in the future, thus saving the contractor additional installation expenses.
Properly installed plants will need less maintenance in the future.
Healthy plants properly installed in the landscape will satisfy and please the client.