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Advise on beauty products and services
SHB30315 Certificate III in Nail Technology SHB40115 Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy WRB20104 WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES SHBBNLS003 Apply acrylic nail enhancement LEARNING MATERIAL Student name: Student ID: Date: Initial Impact P/L PO Box 301 Balnarring 3926 ABN Student name: Student ID: Date: © 2016 Initial Impact P/L Advise on beauty products and services
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
UNIT SCOPE Element 1. Establish client priorities. 1.1 Develop or, access and review client treatment plan. 1.2 Discuss treatment requirements with client. 1.3 Identify contraindications to acrylic nail services, and refer client to appropriate professional as required. 1.4 Identify conditions and client characteristics relevant to acrylic nail services and discuss with client treatment and product effects. 1.5 Conduct patch test as required and record outcomes. 1.6 Design treatment plan, confirm with client and record. 2. Prepare for acrylic nail service. 2.1 Prepare treatment area, equipment and self. 2.2 Use energy, water and other resources efficiently during preparation and subsequent treatment process to reduce negative environmental impacts. 2.3 Select products and equipment and personal protection equipment. 3. Remove acrylic enhancements. 3.1 Position self to minimise fatigue and risk of injury. 3.2 Buff or soak grown out, damaged, and chipped acrylic enhancements. 3.3 Remove acrylic enhancements as per treatment plan and manufacturer instructions. 4. Apply, refill or repair acrylic nails. 4.1 Shape and prepare nail plate for acrylic application. 4.2 Apply acrylic nail products according to manufacturer instructions and treatment plan. 4.3 Modify application technique and products as required. 4.4 Complete acrylic nail enhancements according to treatment plan and client’s needs. 5. Review service. 5.1 Seek client feedback, revise, and record treatment plan. 5.2 Advise client of maintenance requirements. 5.3 Recommend aftercare, products, and future services. 5.4 Rebook client according to the treatment plan. 6. Clean service area. 6.1 Remove used towels and clean surfaces and equipment according to organisational policies and procedures. 6.2 Restock equipment and products in preparation for next treatment. 6.3 Dispose general waste and hazardous substances to minimise negative environmental impacts according to organisational policies and procedures. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
UNIT SCOPE CONTINUED Foundation skills – 7 to 10 7. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used oral communication to use effective questioning and active listening techniques to consult with client, confirm requirements and monitor service outcomes. 8. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used reading skills to interpret and follow manufacturer instructions and safety data sheets for use of cleaning and treatment products and equipment. 9. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used numeracy skills to calculate product quantities, time and price. 10. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used technology skills to use acrylic application tools and use client software to update client notes, rebook client for future treatment, record stock data and product purchases. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
The term 'artificial nail enhancement' incorporates any procedure that lengthens, thickens or otherwise alters the appearance of the natural nail by artificial means. These procedures include the application of tips, acrylic liquid and powder systems, gel systems, sculpting on a form, any type of fabric wrap or the application of a full pre-formed artificial nail. Acrylic nails. Acrylic (methacrylate) nail enhancements are created by combining monomer liquid and polymer powder. ‘Mono’ means one and ‘mer’ stands for units. This means the monomer is one unit called a ‘molecule’. ‘Poly’ means many, so polymer means many or many ‘molecules. The benefits of acrylic nails is that they help conceal or fix broken, damaged, short or bad nails. It also helps prevent people from biting their nails, breakage of nails and protect splits. They are used for people who do not have the length and strength in their natural nails. Acrylic nail kit with primer Acrylic nail kit without primer Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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USING MONOMER AND POLYMER
Liquid and powder nail enhancement Liquid and powder products can be applied in three ways; Applied to the natural nail as a protective overlay. Over a nail tip. Sculpted to extend the natural nail using a flexible form. Modern acrylic polymer powders come in many colours as well as the basic pink, white, clear and natural. These colours can be used alone or blended together. Acrylic overlays and nail enhancements can be created with a single colour powder or they can be created by using a pink or natural coloured powder to replicate a natural nail free edge. A stark white powder can be used to create the French manicure look. The finished nail enhancement can be polished with nail polish or buffed to a high gloss shine for a more natural look. USING MONOMER AND POLYMER 1. A natural hair brush is immersed in the monomer liquid. 2. The tip of the brush with the monomer liquid is then touched on the surface of the dry polymer powder creating a small bead of product. 3. The bead is carefully placed on the nail surface and moulded into shape with the brush. It is vital that you use the same brand of polymer powder as the monomer liquid because the ingredients are designed to work together. Do not mix brands as they may not be compatible. Follow manufacturer’s instructions. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Acrylic (methacrylates) nail enhancement product usage
Monomer liquid This is combined with an acrylic polymer powder to form the sculptured nail. The amount of monomer liquid and polymer powder used creates a bead and is called a mix ratio. Mix ratio This can be dry, medium or wet. A dry ratio is an equal amount of liquid and powder mixed together. A medium ratio is 50% more liquid than powder. A wet ratio is using twice the amount of liquid to powder. Medium ratio is generally the best to work with. The mix ratio ensures proper set and maximum durability of the nail enhancement. Manufacturer’s instructions may differ from brand to brand. Always follow the instructions for the brand you are using. Polymer powder These come in varying colours and the choice will depend upon the nail enhancement method you are using. Nail dehydrator This removes surface moisture and tiny amounts of oil left on the natural nail plate which can block adhesion. It is applied liberally to the natural nail plate without getting onto the skin. It helps prevent lifting of the nail enhancement. Nail primer There are acid free nail primers available which are not corrosive to the skin or eyes as compared to acid primers. Always follow manufacturer’s instruction for their safe use. Apply by inserting the applicator brush into the nail primer. Wipe off excess and using a slightly damp brush apply to the nail plate ensuring that it is completely covered. Do not use too much otherwise it will run onto the skin and may cause irritation. The brush should have enough primer on it to cover two or three nails before dipping the brush back into the primer. Abrasives Select a medium buffer (180 grit to 240) for natural nail preparation, initial shaping and smoothing. A fine buffer (350 grit or higher) is used for final buffing. Acrylic nails take 24 to 48 hours to reach maximum strength. Avoid using lower grit (coarser) abrasives on freshly applied enhancement products as they will damage the nail. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Acrylic (methacrylates) nail enhancement product usage
Nail forms These are placed under the free edge and used to extend the nail enhancement beyond the fingertip for additional length. The pre-shaped plastic type are disposable while the aluminium forms can be reused if properly cleaned and disinfected. Nail tips These are pre-formed nail extensions available in a wide variety of shapes, style and colours. Nail adhesive Nail adhesives are based on cyanoacrylate monomers with each brand using customised additives to enhance set time and strength. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the brand you are using. Adhesives have a short shelf life depending on usage and storage conditions. Keep lid tightly closed on an upright bottle. Store away from direct sunlight and keep at room temperature. Dappen dish with lid The polymer powder should be poured into a dappen dish for its use. Each time the brush is dipped into the dappen dish, the remaining monomer is contaminated with small amounts of polymer powder so never pour the unused monomer back into its original container. For Occupational Health and Safety requirements the best way to dispose of small amounts of monomer liquid is to mix it with the remaining powder and let it cure. Wipe the dappen dish with paper towel. Place the left over material into a plastic bag and put into a metal bin with a self-closing lid. Never dispose of the left over product down the drain. Avoid touching the mix with bare hands as it can cause sensitivity. Wipe the dappen dish with acetone and store in a dust free location with the lid fitting tightly. Nail brushes Sable hair brushes are the best ones to use, choosing the shape and size that is most comfortable. Do not use very large brushes as they hold excessive amounts of liquid and will dilute the enhancement product. Large brushes also have the tendency to touch the skin which can cause irritation. Safety wear Eyewear, dust masks and protective gloves will prevent accidental splashes that can cause serious injury. Always protect your client and yourself. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Nail diseases - contraindications to acrylic nail enhancements Technical name Description/Cause Action/Treatment Onycholysis Separation of the nail plate from the nail bed. Possible causes could be external trauma overzealous manicuring or disease Refer to a physician. Onychomadesis This condition is the separation and falling off of a nail plate from the nail bed Refer client to physician. Nail psoriasis Nail psoriasis often causes tiny pits or severe roughness on the surface of the nail Onychocryptosis Also known as ingrown nails. The nails grow into the sides of the tissue around the nail plate Photos from Milady’s standard Cosmetology Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Nail diseases – contraindications to acrylic nail enhancements Technical name Description/Cause Action/Treatment Paronychia This is a bacterial inflammation of the tissue surrounding the nail. Pus and swelling are usually seen in the skin fold adjacent to the nail plate Refer to a physician. Pyogenic granuloma This is a severe inflammation of the nail in which a lump of red tissue grows up from the nail bed to the nail plate Refer client to physician. Tinea pedis Also known as ‘Athletes foot’. It is a fungus of the feet. Often grows on the bottom of the feet appearing as a red itchy rash in between the toes. Sometimes there is a small degree of scaling of the skin Refer to a physician or pharmacists. Onychomycosis This is a fungal infection of the nail plate seen as whitish patches or long yellowish streaks which can be scraped off the surface of the nail. Sometimes the free edge crumbles and can affect the entire nail plate. It is also known as ‘Tinea unguium’. Photos from Milady’s standard Cosmetology Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Nail growth Nails grow faster in summer than in any other season. Nail growth is faster in children and slows with age. Growth rates vary. The middle finger grows the fastest while the thumb grows the slowest. Nails grow faster in males than in females. Nails grow faster in daytime. Nails on the dominant hand grow slightly faster than the other hand. Vitamins, calcium and gel cannot stimulate nail growth. Damage to the cuticle can interrupt nail growth producing a ridge or mark on the surface of the new nail. Contrary to popular belief, nails do not continue to grow after death; the skin dehydrates and tightens, making the nails (and hair) appear to grow. Nail structure Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Applying Occupational Health and Safety procedures Infections can be spread between the client and operator and from client to client if the instruments used have not been thoroughly cleaned and disinfected between clients. Contact your local state health department for specific requirements. Any instrument or part of an instrument used on a client should be cleaned with detergent and warm water, disinfectant and dried before being used on another client. For single use instruments, it is recommended that they are discarded after each client use. Disposable cuticle sticks are recommended. Re-useable cuticle sticks and cutters, should be washed, disinfected and stored dry. Single use nail files are recommended. Re-useable nail files should be cleaned and disinfected between clients. Bowls should be cleaned and dried between each client use. Waste removal must follow relevant legislation and workplace policies. Wear a mask while performing nail enhancement services. Do not leave bottles un-capped or with loose fitting lids. Store products correctly as most nail chemicals have a one year shelf from date of manufacture. Do not smoke, eat or drink at the nail table. Sanitation – does not kill harmful bacteria and pathogens. Disinfectants – do kill all pathogens on a surface. Sterilisation – completely destroys all living organisms on an object or surface. Using disinfectants. Nail technicians should only use disinfectants specified by the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) for the approved purpose and for the time specified by the manufacturer. Do not use disinfectants on human skin, hair or nails. Only use disinfectants on furniture and used contaminated tools and implements. Sterilisation liquid Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Salon policies and procedures for acrylic nail enhancements Nail chemicals. Keep chemicals in a cool, dark, protected area. Never leave open chemical containers out on the table overnight. Vapors will evaporate into the air causing a toxic atmosphere. Do not allow sunlight onto your nail products as it breaks down the chemicals. Never store your chemicals near food. The chemicals are flammable so they must be protected from heat or naked flames. Never carry or store your chemicals in the car, in-case of excessive heat. Keep MSDS on all the chemicals used in acrylic nail enhancements. General policies and scope of practice. - Client record management. - Dust extraction and methods of venting air. - Equipment use and maintenance. - Incident reporting and safe use of chemicals. - Linen use and laundry procedures. - Personal hygiene and presentation of treatment area. - Use of personal protective equipment for client and operator. - Dust masks, gloves, goggles. - Waste and hazardous substance. - Work health and safety. - Referring clients to other practitioners. - Importance of not stating a diagnosis of contraindications. Adverse effects of acrylic products. - Allergy to product. - Damage to natural nail due to poor removal technique. - Product discolouration. - Natural nail separation. - Product peeling. - Product reaction to temperature. - Pseudomonas (bacterial infection). Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Health and safety Chemicals that can affect health in acrylic nail enhancements are; Monomer liquid. Polymer powder. Dehydrators. Adhesives. Primers. Odourless acrylic products are available. These have the same chemistry as the standard monomer liquid and polymer powder products but instead of using methacrylate they rely on monomers with little odour. They harden more slowly which creates a tacky layer called the ‘inhibition layer’. Once the enhancement has hardened this layer can be removed using acetone or a manufacturer’s recommended product. If you are concerned about any adverse reactions to the application of acrylic nails then a nail trial should be conducted prior to the full procedure commencing. Overexposure is a chemical hazard caused from prolonged repeated exposure beyond levels specified as safe by OH&S regulations. The most common sign of overexposure is skin irritation which can lead to sensitisation which is being sensitive to any foreign substance. Skin irritation is a warning that a problems may be occurring. It is usually momentary itchiness on the nail or surrounding tissue accompanied by redness. By stopping the exposure, the itchiness will go away. General contraindications to acrylic nail enhancements. - Allergic reactions and abnormal skin around nail. - Bacterial, fungal, parasitic and viral infections. - Bruising or swelling around nail and damaged natural nails from ineffective removal of enhancements. - Contraindications of products used in combination with other services. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Material safety data sheets MSDS contain information about the identity of chemicals and the hazards they present. These include; How the product reacts with other chemicals. Signs and symptoms of over-exposure and illnesses that may be caused by the product and relevant emergency and first aid procedures. Prevention measures and controls against harmful ingredients entering the body Safe limits in the air to prevent overexposure by inhalation. Carcinogen hazard of the chemical. Precautions and handling procedures. Storage and disposal information. Keep these documents in a location where all salon staff can have access to this material. Allergic reactions. Continued exposure to the chemicals may cause the skin to become permanently sensitive to the chemical. An allergic reaction develops in the soft tissue with water blisters, rashes or open sores as a result of product use. These types of allergic reactions are not caused by vapour but only by contact with the monomer. If you become allergic to the chemicals from working with them, use a barrier cream or disposable gloves whilst conducting the service. Avoid allergies by; Changing the table towel during a service and before filing. Never touch the soft tissue with the damp brush during application. Use a plastic backed pad to shape the hairs of the brush to avoid skin contact. Sculpt with the brush, not the file, to minimise dust particles. Use the proper mix ratio. Using a product nail system assures proper chemical balance and performance of a sculpting product. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Nail dust No dust is good to breathe as particles as small as 1 micron are found when filing an enhancement. Small particles float in the air for 30 – 40 minutes. Electric drills create the smallest dust particles. Dust can be irritating to the eyes, skin and lungs. Dust masks are essential to prevent dust inhalation. Practice good housekeeping procedures. Extraction ventilation. Extraction ventilation extracts vapours, dust, pollen and other fine particles from the air and will expel them outdoors. Air contamination may cause many types of overexposure. Everything that is liquid evaporates into the air. Everyone has a breathing zone which is a 60cm sphere around each person’s mouth. If that breathing zone is contaminated with evaporated liquid vapours it can cause problems. Keep caps on bottle closed and wrap soiled paper table towels in a plastic bag and put into a covered bin. For cloth towels place in a plastic bag and put them inside a covered unit ready for washing. Eye protection. Some form of eye protection should be worn by the nail operator when working on clients. These can be goggles or glasses. Avoid wearing contact lenses in the salon as vapours will collect in the soft contacts and make them unwearable. Should an accidental splash occur, contact lenses prevent proper cleaning of the eye. Always wash your hands before touching the eye area. Other forms of protective equipment are face masks and gloves. Patch test for allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) to acrylic chemicals. The chemicals which may cause allergic contact dermatitis in traditional acrylic nails contain acrylates. Skin contact with these chemicals may lead to the development of ACD. Conduct the patch test using hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) as it is an adequate screening agent for acrylate allergy. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Preparing for the client Position the nail table in a well ventilated area away from direct air flow or draft. The area must be well lit so a light with a movable arm should be attached to the nail table. The surface of the lamp must be suitable for wiping over with disinfectant. A hand basin should be located close to the area with hot and cold water through a single outlet with taps. Liquid hand soap and single use papers towels should be beside the basin. A double bowl sink must be supplied with hot and cold water for washing equipment as well as the hand basin. One bowl is used for washing the equipment and the other for rinsing. The cleaning area must be separate from the client service and storage areas. Use a covered, lined bin placed directly underneath where you are working. It should have a step open lid. Dispose regularly during the day. Towels should be clean for every client. Launder them separately from clothes. Create a beautiful, clean environment for your clients to visit. Dress correctly for the work you are doing. Your nails and personal hygiene have to be of a high standard. Good ergonomics for nail extensions. The service has to be comfortable for you as well as the client otherwise it could lead to excessive strain on your body. Don’t over extend your hands and always sit in a natural, unstrained position. Change positions often. Take frequent stretch breaks by standing up, stretching and realigning your body. Avoid using tools that vibrate. Vibration will aggravate carpel tunnel syndrome. Hold wrists straight and avoid bending them while filing or using a brush. Don’t hunch or hang your head whilst working. Adjust your chair to a comfortable position. Do not favour one hand over the other or lean in one direction all the time. Sculpting with the brush will minimise excessive filing. Listen to your body and don’t repeat painful positions. Ergonomic stool Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Client consultation A client’s personal preference for the look they want will determine the type of acrylic nail enhancement chosen. You need to take into consideration their lifestyle, the health of their natural nail and the length of the nail extension. Nail shape and length of extension. Usually the most flattering shapes will be a free edge that mirrors the client’s lunula, which can be oval, round or square. Square shapes are stronger while pointy, tapered nails break more easily. Long nails need to have straight sidewalls and be rounded only at the free edge to ensure strength. It is important to advise your client that due to normal growth of their natural nails, the nail enhancement will move 25% to 50% further out than its initial placement. Pre-service preparation. Ensure nail table and all the necessary equipment is sanitised and readily available. Remove client’s jewellery prior to washing and drying their hands with a clean towel. Advise client of the features and maintenance required for acrylic nail enhancements, checking that the client fully understands the cost of the service. Conduct a client consultation. Hand sanitisers should not replace the washing of hands prior to the commencement of the service. They only kill some of the bacteria not all. Keep a high quality hand sanitiser on your table and offer it to the client after they have washed their hands. It enhances the service you are providing. Hand sanitiser Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Natural nail shapes A nail technician needs to determine the width, length and curvature of the tips based on the shape of the client’s natural nail plate. There are 4 basic types of natural nail plates. Flat nail. These have no c-curve from sidewall to sidewall. A natural curve nail tip best suits this shape because they are designed to fit medium to wide nail plates. C-curve nail. This has deep sidewalls and a high rounded curve over the top. A dramatic high profile arch nail tip best suits this nail plate. Arched nail. This has a convex curve from the cuticle out to the free edge. The nail tip should have deep sidewalls for this nail plate. Ski jump nail. This is a flat nail with a free edge that curves upwards and appears concave. Use a nail tip that is good for flat nails and has a natural curve for medium to wide nail plates. Filing nails. When filing nails it is essential that the angle of filing is constant on all ten fingers. Rounded nails - hold the file flatter when filing underneath the free edge. 180 ° is perfectly flat under the nail. Square nails – hold the file straight on, being perpendicular to the free edge. There is no tilt of the file. Always check from different angles of the nail for a symmetrical and uniform shape. Turn the client’s hand around to see what they look like from the client’s point of view. Hold up the hand with the back of the hand facing you and the palm facing the client with the fingers pointed upwards. Check that there are no lopsided nails. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT CLIENT TREATMENT PLAN
Client name: Date: PATCH TEST RESULT: CLIENT LIFESTYLE: Gardening Manual skills employment Caring for own children Business employment Sports CONDITION OF SKIN ON HANDS - description Good Poor NATURAL NAIL PLATE SHAPE Flat nail C-curve nail Arch nail Ski jump nail CONDITION OF THE NAILS Bittern Split or torn Long Short Uneven ANY IRREGULARITIES or CONTRAINDICATIONS INDENTIFIED: ACRYLIC ENHANCEMENT SERVICES Forms Over tips or natural nails Rebalance Enhancement crack repair Removal Bitten tip NAIL POLISH COLOUR CHOSEN: CLIENT COMMENTS: REBOOK CLIENT AND ONGOING TREATMENT PLAN: HOME CARE MAINTENANCE ADVICE: Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Acrylic nail equipment Products courtesy of LeChat Glass clear tips French white tips Ultra form tips Tip cutters Files Monomer liquid container Polymer ceramic dappen dish with lid Nail glue Disinfectant wipes Buffing sponge Cuticle sticks Cuticle pushers White and pink blocks Cuticle pumice stone Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Acrylic nail equipment Products courtesy of LeChat Acrylic brushes Acrylic liquid Brush cleaner Coloured polymer powder Arm cushion Liquid monomer Acrylic powder clear Acrylic powder white and pink Odour eliminator Odourless acrylic liquid Coloured polymer powder Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Acrylic nail equipment Disposable forms Reusable forms Round and square disposable forms Disposable forms Dust brush Nail brush Polymer powder Nail prep Finger bowl Primerless acrylic liquid UV acrylic liquid Nail primer Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Acrylic nail equipment Gel top coat over acrylic nails ProFiler electric drill Dura gloss Coloured polishes Nail polish correction pen Aroma therapy polish dryer Rejuvenail nail hardener Nail blender Base coat Hand cream Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
1. Complete pre-service sanitation service and remove any nail polish with polish remover. 2. With a cotton tipped orangewood stick, push back the cuticles. Do not use cuticle oils or creams. 3. Gently remove the shine of the natural nail by using a fine abrasive file. Do not use too much pressure. Brush off any dust. 4. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with brush, spray or cotton tipped pusher. Begin with the little finger on the left hand and work towards the thumb. 5. Work on one nail only for steps from 5 to 14. Position nail form on nail plate. If using disposable forms, peel a nail form from its paper backing and using the thumb and index finger of each of your hands, bend the form into an arch to fit the client’s natural nail shape. Slide the form into place and press adhesive backing to the sides of the finger. Check to see that the form is snug under the free edge and level with the natural nail. If using multiuse forms, slide the form into place making sure the free edge is over the form and that it fits neatly. Be careful not to cut into the hyponychium under the free edge. Tighten the form around the finger by squeezing tightly. 6. Apply nail primer by touching the brush tip onto the edge of the bottle’s neck to release the excess primer back into the bottle. Using a light dotting action, dab the brush tip onto the prepared natural nail only. The primer leaves a residue molecule behind. The open-ended molecule connects with the acrylic molecules to form a better bond to each other. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions. Primer must dry thoroughly. Never apply nail enhancement over wet primer as this can cause the product to discolour and breakdown. 7. Pour monomer liquid into container and powder into dappen dish. If you are using the two colour method, you will need two dappen dishes, one for the white tip powder and one for the other colour. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
8. Dip brush fully into the monomer liquid and wipe on the edge of the container to remove excess. 9. Dip the tip of the same brush into the polymer powder and rotate slightly. You will pick up a bead of product that is large enough for shaping the entire free edge extension. Make sure the consistency is not too runny. If the size of the bead is too large to shape properly you can use two smaller beads. If using the two colour method, use the white powder at this point. 10. Place the bead on the nail form at the point where the free edge joins the nail form. 11. Use the middle portion of your brush to press and smooth the product to shape the enhancement in the free edge area. Do not paint the enhancement product onto the nail. Pressing and smoothing produces a more natural looking nail. Keep side wall lines parallel and avoid widening the tip beyond the natural width of the nail plate. If you are using the two colour method, create a natural looking nail shape with the white powder to produce the French manicure look. 12. Pick up a second bead of product and place it on the natural nail below the last bead and next to the free edge line in the centre of the nail. 13. Press and smooth product towards the side walls, making sure that the product is very thin around all the edges. Leave a tiny free space between the product placement and the skin. Avoid placing the product too close to the skin, as it may cause it to lift away from the nail plate and increase the chances of skin irritation. If using the two colour method, use the pink powder in this stage. Always avoid having the beads too runny. 14. Pick up a smaller bead of pink polymer with the brush and place at base of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between it and the skin. Use the brush to press and smooth these beads over entire nail plate. Glide brush over to smooth out imperfections. You must have thin applications near eponychium, side wall and free edge for natural looking nails. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
15. Repeat steps 5 through to 14 on all remaining nails. 16. When nail enhancements are thoroughly hardened, loosen forms and slide them off. Check if they have hardened enough to file and shape by lightly tapping them with a brush handle. They will make a clicking sound if hardened. 17. Using a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit) shape the free edge and remove imperfections. Glide abrasive over each nail with long sweeping strokes to further shape and improve the surface of the enhancement. Thin the product near the base of all nail plates, free edges and side walls. 18. Buff the enhancement with a fine grit buffer (350 grit or higher) until entire surface is smooth. If no nail polish is to be applied, use a high shine buffer. 19. Using a cotton tipped wooden pusher apply nail oil to the skin surrounding the nail plate and massage lightly. Apply hand cream and conduct a hand and arm massage. 20. Client’s hands need to be washed with soap and a nail brush is used to clean the nail enhancement. Thoroughly rinse with water to remove soap residue. Dry thoroughly with a clean disposable towel. If using the two coloured method this ends the service. If using a one colour method then apply nail polish. 21. Schedule another appointment with the client for maintenance of the enhancements. A rebalance will be required in 2 to 3 weeks. The client should have a basic manicure in between the rebalance if the enhancements have been polished. Recommend take home products such as polish, top coat and hand lotions. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
22. Clean the table, disinfect implements and restock supplies. Implements must be cleaned and disinfected before they can be used on the next client. Make sure all caps on bottles are tight. Clean the brushes according to manufacturer’s instructions. Never pull out bristles of the brush as you will loosen the remaining bristles. You can clip a stray hair but never trim the bristles. Do not allow the brush to sit in acetone or brush cleaner as it will dry out the hairs and make them brittle. Never put the brushes into disinfecting liquid as this can cause product contamination. Dispose of small amounts of monomer liquid by carefully pouring it into absorbent paper, put into a plastic bag and place into a covered bin. Never dispose of the left over product down the drain. Avoid touching the mix with bare hands as it can cause sensitivity. Dispose of all items according to salon policies and environmental regulations. 23. Store acrylic powders in covered containers. Store all primers and liquids in a cool, dark area. Never store any products near heat. NOTE: Primer will need to be checked daily to ensure that it does not become contaminated with nail dust or other floating materials. Do not use primers if you see any contamination. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER TIPS OR NATURAL NAIL
1. Complete pre-service sanitation service and remove any nail polish with polish remover 2. Dip client’s nails into a finger bowl filled with warm water and liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean fingernails over the bowl. Rinse the finger tips thoroughly so that no soap residue remains as this may cause lifting. Dry hands thoroughly on a disposable towel. 3. With a cotton tipped orangewood stick, push back the cuticles. Do not use cuticle oils or creams. 4. Gently remove the shine of the natural nail by using a fine abrasive file. Do not use too much pressure. Brush off any dust. 5. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with brush, spray or cotton tipped pusher. Begin with the little finger on the left hand and work towards the thumb. 6. To apply tips make sure the tip size chosen exactly covers the nail plate from side wall to side wall. The tip must never cover more than one third the length of the nail plate. If the tip does not fit exactly from side to side, choose a larger size and use the abrasive board to customise it to fit the nail plate. Clip tips to the desired length. Nail tips that are pre-bevelled require much less filing on the natural nail after application. Put all of the pre-tailored and sized tips on a towel in order of finger position. 7. Apply nail primer to the natural nail and avoid putting it on the nail tip unless instructed by the manufacturer of the nail primer. Apply by touching the brush tip onto the edge of the bottle’s neck to release the excess primer back into the bottle. Using a light dotting action, dab the brush tip onto the prepared natural nail only. The primer leaves a residue molecule behind. The open-ended molecule connects with the acrylic molecules to form a better bond to each other. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions. Primer must dry thoroughly. Never apply nail enhancement over wet primer as this can cause the product to discolour and breakdown. NOTE: A common mistake is applying product too thickly, especially near the base of the nail plate. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER TIPS OR NATURAL NAIL
8. Pour monomer liquid into container and powder into dappen dish. If you are using the two colour method, you will need two dappen dishes, one for the white tip powder, one for the other colour. 9. Dip brush fully in the monomer liquid and wipe on the edge of the container to remove excess. 10. Dip the tip of the same brush into the polymer powder and rotate slightly. You will pick up a bead of product that is large enough for shaping the entire free edge extension. Make sure the consistency is not too runny. If the size of the bead is too large to shape properly you can use two smaller beads. If using the two colour method, use the white powder at this point. 11. Place product bead on the free edge of the tip or natural nail. 12. Use the middle portion of your brush to press and smooth the product to shape the enhancement in the free edge area. Do not paint the enhancement product onto the nail. Pressing and smoothing produces a more natural looking nail. Keep side wall lines parallel and avoid widening the tip beyond the natural width of the nail plate. If you are using the two colour method, create a natural looking nail shape with the white powder to produce the French manicure look. 13. Place the second bead of acrylic on the nail plate below the first bead and next to the free edge line in the centre of the nail. 14. Press and smooth product toward the side walls, making sure that the product is very thin around all the edges. Leave a tiny free space between the product placement and the skin. Avoid placing the product too close to the skin as it may cause it to lift away from the nail plate and increase the chances of skin irritation. If using the two colour method, use the pink powder in this stage. Always avoid having the beads too runny. 15. Pick up a smaller bead of pink polymer with the brush and place at base of the nail plate, leaving a tiny free margin between it and the skin. Use the brush to press and smooth these beads over entire nail plate. Glide brush over to smooth out imperfections. You must have thin applications near eponychium, side wall and free edge for natural looking nails. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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APPLYING ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER TIPS OR NATURAL NAIL
16. Use medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit) to shape the free edge and remove imperfections. Then refine with medium fine abrasive. 17. Buff the nail enhancement with fine grit buffer (350 grit or higher) until the entire surface is smooth or use a high shine buffer if nail is not to be polished. 18. Rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement and massage lightly. Apply hand cream and conduct a hand and arm massage 19. Place client’s fingers with nail enhancements into a fingerbowl filled with warm water and liquid soap. Use the nail brush to clean nails over bowl. Thoroughly rinse to remove soap residue and dry thoroughly with a clean disposable towel. If you are using the two colour method then this finishes the service. 20. Apply polish if using the one colour method. Schedule another appointment with the client for maintenance of the enhancements. Recommend take home products such as polish, top coat and hand lotions. 21. Clean the table, disinfect implements and restock supplies. Implements must be cleaned and disinfected before they can be used on the next client. Make sure all caps on bottles are tight. Clean the brushes according to manufacturers’ instructions. Dispose of all items according to salon policies and environmental regulations. 22. Store acrylic powders in covered containers. Store all primers and liquids in a cool, dark area. Never store any products near heat. FORMATIVE 1. VIEW VIDEO ON ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT OVER TIP EXTENSION. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE
Maintenance Regular maintenance will help prevent the nail enhancements from lifting or cracking. A full rebalance must be preformed every 2 to 3 weeks to ensure that the nails remain in top condition. If cracks appear they must be repaired immediately. Some clients will want to have the enhancement removed so it is important to learn how to do this without damage to the natural nail. ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE 1. Complete pre-service sanitation service and remove any nail polish with polish remover. 2. Using a medium to coarse abrasive (120 to 180 grit) carefully smooth down the ledge of the existing enhancement until it is flush with the new growth of the nail plate. Avoid digging in or damaging the natural nail plate with your abrasive. 3. Using a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit) and holding it flat, glide over the entire nail enhancement to reshape, refine and thin out the free edge until the white tip appears translucent. Do not damage the client’s skin with the abrasive. 4. Using a fine grit buffer (350 or higher) buff the enhancement to blend smoothly into the new growth area without damaging the natural nail plate. 5. On the areas that are lifting use a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit) to smooth them out. Again do not damage the natural nail plate. 6. Dip client’s nails into a finger bowl filled with warm water and liquid soap. Use a nail brush to clean fingernails over the bowl. Rinse the finger tips thoroughly so that no soap residue remains as this may cause lifting. Dry hands thoroughly on a disposable towel. 7. With a cotton tipped orangewood stick, push back the cuticles. Do not use cuticle oils or creams. 8. Gently remove the shine of the natural nail by using a fine abrasive file. Do not use too much pressure. Brush off any dust. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE
9. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with brush, spray or cotton tipped pusher. Begin with the little finger on the left hand and work towards the thumb. 10. Apply nail primer following manufacturer’s instructions. Primer must dry thoroughly. Never apply nail enhancement over wet primer as this can cause the product to discolour and breakdown. 11. Pour acrylic liquid and powder into correct containers. 12. Pick up one or more small powder beads and place them on the new growth area. Only pink or natural powder is required if nail polish it to be worn. 13. Use the middle of the brush to press and smooth the product into place. 14. Pick up one or more small beads and place them at the centre of the nail plate. 15. Use the brush to smooth these beads over the entire nail enhancement. Glide the brush over the nail to smooth out imperfections making sure that the application is extremely thin near the eponychium, side walls and free edge. 16. Allow the nails to harden. Check by tapping with a brush handle and if they make a clicking sound then they are ready. Use a medium to coarse (120 to 180 grit) to shape the free edge and apex as well as removing any imperfections. Use a medium-fine abrasive to glide over the nail enhancement with long sweeping strokes to further shape the nail surface. Taper the nail shape toward the eponychium, side walls and free edge making sure they are thin at the edges. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT REBALANCE
17. Smooth the entire surface of the nail using a fine buffer (350 or higher grit) until it is smooth. Use a high shine buffer if no nail polish is to be worn. 18. Rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement and massage lightly. Apply hand cream and conduct a hand and arm massage. 19. Place client’s fingers with nail enhancements into a fingerbowl filled with warm water and liquid soap. Use the nail brush to clean nails over bowl. Thoroughly rinse to remove soap residue and dry thoroughly with a clean disposable towel. If you are using the two colour method then this finishes the service. 20. Apply nail polish. Schedule another appointment with the client. 21. Clean the table, disinfect implements and restock supplies. Implements must be cleaned and disinfected before they can be used on the next client. Make sure all caps on bottles are tight. Clean the brushes according to manufacturers’ instructions. Dispose of all items according to salon policies and environmental regulations. 22. Store acrylic powders in covered containers. Store all primers and liquids in a cool, dark area. Never store any products near heat. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT CRACK REPAIR 1.
Complete pre-service sanitation service and remove any nail polish with polish remover. 2. File a ‘V’ shape into the crack or flush file to remove crack. 3. Wash client’s hands and rinse thoroughly to remove soap residue. Dry thoroughly. 4. Apply nail dehydrator to nails with brush, spray or cotton tipped pusher. 5. Apply nail primer following manufacturer’s instructions. Primer must dry thoroughly. 6. If the crack is large apply a nail form for added support. 7. Pour acrylic liquid and powder into correct containers. 8. Pick up one or more small beads and apply them to the cracked area. If using the two colour method make sure you have the right colour polymer powder. 9. Press and smooth the product to fill the crack. Be careful not to let the product seep under the form if it was used. 10. Apply additional beads if required to fill the crack or reinforce the rest of the nail. Shape the enhancement and allow to harden. Remove the form if it was used. 11. Reshape the nail enhancement using a medium abrasive (180 to 240 grit). Buff with a fine abrasive (350 grit or higher) and use a high shine buffer if required. Clean enhancement gently. 12. Rub nail oil into the surrounding skin and nail enhancement and massage lightly. Apply hand cream and conduct a hand and arm massage. Clean client’s fingers with nail enhancements as normal. Thoroughly rinse to remove soap residue and dry with a clean disposable towel. If you are using the two colour method then this finishes the service. Apply nail polish. Schedule another appointment with the client. 13. Clean the table, disinfect implements and restock supplies. Implements must be cleaned and disinfected before they can be used on the next client. Make sure all caps on bottles are tight. Clean the brushes according to manufacturer’s instructions. Dispose of all items according to salon policies and environmental regulations. Store acrylic powders in covered containers. Store all primers and liquids in a cool, dark area. Never store any products near heat. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT REMOVAL 1.
Fill a glass bowl with enough acetone or manufacturers’ recommended product remover to cover higher than the client’s enhancements. 2. Soak the enhancements for 20 to 30 minutes or as long as required to remove the product. Always refer to manufacturer’s instructions. 3. Use a wooden or metal pusher to gently push off the softened nail. Keep the enhancement in the acetone or product remover or they will quickly re-harden making them more difficult to remove. Complete all nails. Do not pry off with nippers as this will damage the natural nail plate. 4. Nail plates will appear to be thinner after enhancements have been removed. This is due to there being more moisture in the natural nail plate because the enhancement was covering it. This makes the natural nail more flexible. This flexibility will be gone after 24 hours as the nails dry out making them more rigid and thick. 5 Gently buff natural nail with a fine buffer (350 grit or higher) to remove residue. Do not thin or damage the natural nail by over buffing 6. Apply nail oil and hand cream and conduct a hand and arm massage. Acetone and non acetone polish remover Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Bitten nails Acrylic nails can assist in breaking the habit of nail biting for some clients. Bitten nails have a free edge that is bitten down to the point that a ‘smile’ line appears on the nail. The skin on the edge looks like a bulb being ‘puffed up’ with tough and calloused skin from all the nail biting. The pressure of the ‘puffed up’ skin can put pressure on the enhancement causing it to lift, crack or break. Sometimes the enhancement pops off with very little hand usage. To eliminate this problem it is necessary to customise the tip for a perfect fit so that it fits the nail plate length and the skin as well. Carving out the side wall of the tip will eliminate the area of pressure allowing the tip to ride over the ‘puffed up’ skin. Reduce the length of the contact area so that no more than ½ the length is covered by the tip. It is advisable to use a gel adhesive for air-tight retention of the tip to the nail plate. After the tip is applied it should be shortened and blended into the natural nail. The natural nail should be cleansed, dehydrated and primed as per a normal acrylic application. Bitten finger nails Carve out the side of the wall of the tip Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Aftercare for clients It is part of your work as a nail technician to provide aftercare service to clients who have received nail enhancement treatments. After each treatment it is best to record the results and responses from the client to the service. You need to rebook the client for follow up treatments. Advise the client; How to clean the nails. The importance of the use of hand cream, cuticle oil and nail strengthener in between visits. Rebook for refills as well as manicures and paraffin treatments. With every enhancement service each nail is balanced in proportion to the length. Changing the length at fills will disturb the balance and should be avoided. Nails should only be shortened at fills which requires a booking for a fill service. Clients can purchase products from your salon. Nail strengtheners. Hand and body moisturisers. Nail files. Cuticle oils. Nail polishes. Hand exfoliants. Should the client be unhappy with how the services was conducted or the final result is not what they expected, you need to discuss this with the manager of the salon. Between the client and the manager, a satisfactory settlement should be agreed upon. Cuticle butter and cuticle oil Nail hardener Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Client care at home Clients may need to adjust their lifestyle when they are wearing nail enhancements. Never do a task that puts upward pressure on the tips of the nail. Use the pads of the fingers rather than fingertips and nails. Wear gloves when doing home cleaning or touching any chemicals. Wear gloves when out in the garden. Do not leave the hands in water for long periods of time. Apply hand cream after washing hands and apply an intense hand cream at night before going to bed. Apply cuticle oil to their cuticles every day to prevent the nail enhancement lifting, allowing the formation of bacteria between the product and the natural nail. Use non-acetone polish remover. Push back cuticles after a shower or bath when the skin is soft and flexible. ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF ARTIFICIAL NAILS ACRYLIC NAIL ENHANCEMENT ULTRAVIOLET GEL NAIL ENHANCEMENT Advantages Good over bitten nails Gel nails have a glossier finish and look more natural Very strong The curing time for gel nails is quicker Easy to paint Gel nails don't produce an odour Can be attached at the base or the tip There is less filing and shaping required during application Acrylic nails are easier to fix if broken. Easy to remove Disadvantages Can look artificial They are less durable and don't last as long as acrylic Can cause damage to natural nail They are much harder to fix if they break Sometimes difficult to grow out Gel nails tend to shatter rather than have a clean break Gel nails are more difficult to remove Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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Apply acrylic nail enhancements
Sustainability Sustainability is the ability to maintain a certain status or process in existing systems. The most frequent use of the term sustainability, is connected to biological or human systems in the context of ecology. The ability of an ecosystem to function and maintain productivity for a prolonged period is also sustainability. Sustainability in general refers to the property of being sustainable. The widely accepted definition of sustainability or sustainable development was given by World Commission on Environment and Development in It defined sustainable development as "forms of progress that meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.“ Practically, sustainability refers to three broad themes, economic, social and environmental, that must all be coordinated and addressed to ensure the long term viability of a community and the planet. The primary goal of sustainable is using renewable natural resources in a manner that does not eliminate or degrade them or otherwise diminish their usefulness for future generations. Sustainable work practices; Safe disposal of all waste materials to minimise negative impact on the environment. Efficient use of energy, water and other resources used to minimise negative impact on the environment. Ensuring the practice of waste minimisation and recycling is conducted to reduce impact on the environment. Comparing availability of products, equipment and services and adjusting their use to minimise negative impact on the environment. This completes the learning material for this unit. Authors copyright is claimed in all forms of media. Moral rights are claimed in all forms of media. Intellectual property rights are asserted and maintained in all forms of media. Apply acrylic nail enhancements
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